New owner - TVR Chimaera 500
Discussion
8 J wheel. Might be better with the 245 
Both will fit in my opionion, I chose 235 because of my wheel size.
If your comfortable with the 245 fitting on the rears which I think they will fit inside wheel arch ok then as your on 8 inch rims this might be more appropriate.
I'm hoping some one with 8 rears will confirm.
Both will fit in my opionion, I chose 235 because of my wheel size.
If your comfortable with the 245 fitting on the rears which I think they will fit inside wheel arch ok then as your on 8 inch rims this might be more appropriate.
I'm hoping some one with 8 rears will confirm.
Had my first visit from the RAC yesterday.
Booting it around some country lanes, pulled in behind some cars to let someone pass, then foot on the clutch and...lost the clutch.
Long story short, leaking slave cylinder and there was nothing left in the master cylinder!
Full credit to the RAC, the guy refilled and bled the system and it was fine to get me home.
Ordering a new slave cylinder today, can't see any leaks or issues with the master cylinder so going to leave that.
Isn't TVR ownership fun
Booting it around some country lanes, pulled in behind some cars to let someone pass, then foot on the clutch and...lost the clutch.
Long story short, leaking slave cylinder and there was nothing left in the master cylinder!
Full credit to the RAC, the guy refilled and bled the system and it was fine to get me home.
Ordering a new slave cylinder today, can't see any leaks or issues with the master cylinder so going to leave that.
Isn't TVR ownership fun
GR_TVR said:
Had my first visit from the RAC yesterday.
Booting it around some country lanes, pulled in behind some cars to let someone pass, then foot on the clutch and...lost the clutch.
Long story short, leaking slave cylinder and there was nothing left in the master cylinder!
Full credit to the RAC, the guy refilled and bled the system and it was fine to get me home.
Ordering a new slave cylinder today, can't see any leaks or issues with the master cylinder so going to leave that.
Isn't TVR ownership fun
The fun bit is that TVR thought you didn't need to check the fluid level so 'stuck' a cover over it just to make sure you didn't peek.Booting it around some country lanes, pulled in behind some cars to let someone pass, then foot on the clutch and...lost the clutch.
Long story short, leaking slave cylinder and there was nothing left in the master cylinder!
Full credit to the RAC, the guy refilled and bled the system and it was fine to get me home.
Ordering a new slave cylinder today, can't see any leaks or issues with the master cylinder so going to leave that.
Isn't TVR ownership fun
Steve
Haha yes, the RAC man did seem a bit baffled when I said he'll need a knife to get to the reservoir!
Ok so I've found another issue...the infamous "hot start" (or whatever else you want to call it - let's just say after a drive, turning the key powers the fuel pump but then nothing at all. About an hour later it works no problem) problem.
First port of call was out of interest, really, to see whether anyone had tried to do anything in the past.
So I took a look in the footwell at the wiring and...wow, what a mess! Are they all like this?
Can anyone spot anything odd/interesting/etc (not necessarily just relating to the issue above) from this photo? I have a few electrical issues with the car (wipers, mirrors, fan blower, courtesy light to name a few...) so any information would be very gratefully received.
Thanks
Ok so I've found another issue...the infamous "hot start" (or whatever else you want to call it - let's just say after a drive, turning the key powers the fuel pump but then nothing at all. About an hour later it works no problem) problem.
First port of call was out of interest, really, to see whether anyone had tried to do anything in the past.
So I took a look in the footwell at the wiring and...wow, what a mess! Are they all like this?
Can anyone spot anything odd/interesting/etc (not necessarily just relating to the issue above) from this photo? I have a few electrical issues with the car (wipers, mirrors, fan blower, courtesy light to name a few...) so any information would be very gratefully received.
Thanks
My hot start issue was down to the wrong cable being fitted at the factory that had finally lost the ability to transmit the necessary power round the circuit to start the car. I was told by Carl Baker that quite a few TVR's suffer from this.
If PP has a wiring diagram of the starter system cables (particularly the ones supposed to be heavy duty) his kind input should help you replace the ones that are a known weak point on our cars
If PP has a wiring diagram of the starter system cables (particularly the ones supposed to be heavy duty) his kind input should help you replace the ones that are a known weak point on our cars
From that picture I'm not spotting anything out of the ordinary (they all look like that Sir).
I'm also not spotting a 'Hot start modification' which is basically an additional relay to try and relieve the load from the start circuit through the immobiliser. This mod along with a heavier gauge cable to the starter solenoid may resolve your hot start issues but they may also be related to the solenoid sticking due the the grease drying due to the heat from the exhaust manifold.
Steve
I'm also not spotting a 'Hot start modification' which is basically an additional relay to try and relieve the load from the start circuit through the immobiliser. This mod along with a heavier gauge cable to the starter solenoid may resolve your hot start issues but they may also be related to the solenoid sticking due the the grease drying due to the heat from the exhaust manifold.
Steve
Steve_D said:
From that picture I'm not spotting anything out of the ordinary (they all look like that Sir).
I'm also not spotting a 'Hot start modification' which is basically an additional relay to try and relieve the load from the start circuit through the immobiliser. This mod along with a heavier gauge cable to the starter solenoid may resolve your hot start issues but they may also be related to the solenoid sticking due the the grease drying due to the heat from the exhaust manifold.
Steve
That's good to hear then, funny how it can be the norm but still!I'm also not spotting a 'Hot start modification' which is basically an additional relay to try and relieve the load from the start circuit through the immobiliser. This mod along with a heavier gauge cable to the starter solenoid may resolve your hot start issues but they may also be related to the solenoid sticking due the the grease drying due to the heat from the exhaust manifold.
Steve
Thanks for the info, sounds like I need to get a relay and wire it in. Is there a diagram available somewhere showing how to fit?
I'll probably also take apart the starter motor and clean/regrease, then. Sounds like a bit of heat insulation/shield may help also?
Gareth
This is taken from an earlier topic I started and works a treat
The below circuit achieves 3 objectives and is very simple yet so effective
1 - Car can't possibly be cranked when engine is running, this could save a starter pinion or two
2 - Solves any problems caused by volt drops from ignition switch to starter motor solenoid, more reliable crank voltage
3 - Increases the Alternators Rotor excitation during cranking and this lowers the Alternator cut-in speed
You can wire this into your vehicle as is or wire it through the immobiliser
if you wish to wire it through the immobiliser you will only need to remove the crank wire from the starter motor and extend it back to the relay used in my diagram, it is your choice where you fit the relay
The below circuit achieves 3 objectives and is very simple yet so effective
1 - Car can't possibly be cranked when engine is running, this could save a starter pinion or two
2 - Solves any problems caused by volt drops from ignition switch to starter motor solenoid, more reliable crank voltage
3 - Increases the Alternators Rotor excitation during cranking and this lowers the Alternator cut-in speed
You can wire this into your vehicle as is or wire it through the immobiliser
if you wish to wire it through the immobiliser you will only need to remove the crank wire from the starter motor and extend it back to the relay used in my diagram, it is your choice where you fit the relay
Penelope Stopit said:
This is taken from an earlier topic I started and works a treat
The below circuit achieves 3 objectives and is very simple yet so effective
1 - Car can't possibly be cranked when engine is running, this could save a starter pinion or two
2 - Solves any problems caused by volt drops from ignition switch to starter motor solenoid, more reliable crank voltage
3 - Increases the Alternators Rotor excitation during cranking and this lowers the Alternator cut-in speed
You can wire this into your vehicle as is or wire it through the immobiliser
if you wish to wire it through the immobiliser you will only need to remove the crank wire from the starter motor and extend it back to the relay used in my diagram, it is your choice where you fit the relay
Fantastic, thank you very much. I shall get this sorted and report back.The below circuit achieves 3 objectives and is very simple yet so effective
1 - Car can't possibly be cranked when engine is running, this could save a starter pinion or two
2 - Solves any problems caused by volt drops from ignition switch to starter motor solenoid, more reliable crank voltage
3 - Increases the Alternators Rotor excitation during cranking and this lowers the Alternator cut-in speed
You can wire this into your vehicle as is or wire it through the immobiliser
if you wish to wire it through the immobiliser you will only need to remove the crank wire from the starter motor and extend it back to the relay used in my diagram, it is your choice where you fit the relay
shake n bake said:
Hard to tell from the picture but the fuel pump relay in the foreground of the picture appears to be corroded on the casing?
I'll check it next time I stick my head down there!Hedgehopper said:
When you straighten those wires out it will look something like this...with any luck!
Haha, thanks - fingers crossed! I'll compare mine to that and highlight any discrepancies. GR_TVR said:
Steve_D said:
From that picture I'm not spotting anything out of the ordinary (they all look like that Sir).
I'm also not spotting a 'Hot start modification' which is basically an additional relay to try and relieve the load from the start circuit through the immobiliser. This mod along with a heavier gauge cable to the starter solenoid may resolve your hot start issues but they may also be related to the solenoid sticking due the the grease drying due to the heat from the exhaust manifold.
Steve
That's good to hear then, funny how it can be the norm but still!I'm also not spotting a 'Hot start modification' which is basically an additional relay to try and relieve the load from the start circuit through the immobiliser. This mod along with a heavier gauge cable to the starter solenoid may resolve your hot start issues but they may also be related to the solenoid sticking due the the grease drying due to the heat from the exhaust manifold.
Steve
Thanks for the info, sounds like I need to get a relay and wire it in. Is there a diagram available somewhere showing how to fit?
I'll probably also take apart the starter motor and clean/regrease, then. Sounds like a bit of heat insulation/shield may help also?
Gareth
I then also wrapped the unit in heat wrap, before covering the side exposed to the engine/manifolds with some sheet aluminium.
I'm pleased to say I haven't had any issues since - I can pop to the shops and the petrol station without having to take an hour long walk!
I'll still do the wiring upgrade, but happy that this helped things.
Now my car is running and idling much better, I thought I'd post a rovergauge screenshot so those more in the know can check everything looks alright.
The only criticism I really have of the way it runs is when you do stop it takes a good 5 seconds or so for the revs to drop into idle.
The only criticism I really have of the way it runs is when you do stop it takes a good 5 seconds or so for the revs to drop into idle.
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