OIL cooler

[TV8]

phazed said:

I agree with Gary above. Those were my findings as well.

A thermostatic sandwich plate and air cooled cooler brings your oil temperature up to speed quite quickly and then opens up to cool as required.

Hi Peter,

what sort of temperatures have you seen on the 5.5? Mine gets a lot hotter than my old 4.0 in the cabin and under the bonnet and I still cant decide if I want a cooler or not! I didnt realise that synthetic oil has a lot hotter range than mineral, so might just start using synthentic!

[phazed]

TV8 said:

Hi Peter,

what sort of temperatures have you seen on the 5.5? Mine gets a lot hotter than my old 4.0 in the cabin and under the bonnet and I still cant decide if I want a cooler or not! I didnt realise that synthetic oil has a lot hotter range than mineral, so might just start using synthentic!

117 on track with the small cooler that was on the car when I bought it, now max 107 with the bigger cooler.

Now runs 78-85ish on the road, up to 90 when pressing on.

[TV8]

Thanks Peter. I don't suppose you know pre cooler numbers?

[phazed]

Track figures above, road figures very similar iirc.

[Pink_Floyd]

bobfather said:

I'm certainly more interested in the temperature of working oil so I'm hoping to tap into the filter output. I fear the sump could give a slow response due to oil volume and a low reading due to surface cooling from the sump.

What amazed me is how long the oil takes to get up to temperature, the water reaches temperature pretty quickly.
So I am thinking of going the exchanger route so that the oil is heated when its cold and cooled to water temp when to hot.

[SILICONEKID345HP]

My oil temp sits at 80 and can tip over 100 .

[ClassicChimaera]

Pink_Floyd said:

What amazed me is how long the oil takes to get up to temperature, the water reaches temperature pretty quickly.
So I am thinking of going the exchanger route so that the oil is heated when its cold and cooled to water temp when to hot.

I like the sound of this. The quicker the oil heats up the better and then being controlled seems a great way to prolong engine life.

[bobfather]

Pink_Floyd said:

What amazed me is how long the oil takes to get up to temperature, the water reaches temperature pretty quickly.
So I am thinking of going the exchanger route so that the oil is heated when its cold and cooled to water temp when to hot.

Results are in...

From cold (ambient temperature 11degC)

Coolant had reached stable temperature after 6 miles

Oil temperature

3 miles - 50degC
7 miles - 80degC
12miles - 105degC

After that it floated between 105 & 110degC depending on my style of driving

Overall, very happy, at 110degC the indicator is nicely central so deviations will be easy to spot

[phazed]

I can't see how your oil temperature is so high Bob.

My oil temperature on my Spa gauge follows the water temperature fairly accurately on the roads. It is only on track when you are hammering it does it ever reach 105-107° .

[bobfather]

phazed said:

I can't see how your oil temperature is so high Bob.

Where's your sender fitted?

Mine is on the filter outflow, sender and gauge are matched. perhaps oil grade but I doubt that would make any significant difference. Slow & low readings are sometimes related to air flow cooling at the sender location

100 - 110degC is a nice working temperature for fully synthetic oil. Approaching too hot for mineral oils

Edited by bobfather on Wednesday 3rd May 14:14

[phazed]

Mine is on the tapping where the original oil pressure sender screws onto at the bottom of the timing cover.

[bobfather]

phazed said:

Mine is on the tapping where the original oil pressure sender screws onto at the bottom of the timing cover.

Perhaps the brass sender is being cooled by passing air flow, there's certainly more risk of air cooling there than at the filter outlet tapping on the side of the filter housing.

I can see reasons for a low reading but the only reason for a high reading would be a gauge/sender mismatch and I'm assuming I don't have that problem as these were paired

If you can get hold of an M20-1/8npt reducer I would suggest trying the filter outlet tapping. I found one on ebay. You need it to be brass so that heat transfer will quick

This is the one I used

Edited by bobfather on Wednesday 3rd May 15:00

[phazed]

My oil pressure sender is screwed into that tapping.

[bobfather]

phazed said:

My oil pressure sender is screwed into that tapping.

You could try insulating the exposed part of your temperature sender. Brass is a bu99er for stealing heat