Thinking of buying

[Chimp871]

Afternoon....

I'm a Chimp owner and the is my first foray over to this forum, so be nice

I wondered if anyone knows of P7 EGE? It's on eBay at the moment and has a low pressure oil warning light at idle with the guess that sensor, oil pump or bearings may be stuffed. There's also low oil pressure when it's running hot. MOT history shows overheating as an issue. I know from experience when my engine overheated the oil bypass valve got stuck making the oil pressure plummet. Everyone know prolonged use at low pressure use would knack an engine fast!

I've rebuilt the rover V8 lump on my Chimp but am curious to get the thoughts of this forum as to cause and repair or walk away. I'm not bothered about removing engine and stripping it down. Who knows it could just be the oil bypass spring but somehow I doubt it.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322488665444

I've asked them for a mechanical pressure reading but the response was it's not been done and should assume worst case scenario. I asked if there was any swarf in oil pan, answer was no.


Thanks

[gruffalo]

Do you know if the power steering works, all three pumps are on one shaft?

[billynobrakes]

Reading through the description it sounds about right for a 20 year old car that obviously has had some work done but will need some tlc it will need new carpets and poss seats recovered, paint sounds tired so if it was me I would want to take a closer look to see what cosmetics needs doing and it's only done 32,000 miles the problem with early engines was the crankshaft snapping but if it's not gone by now it should be ok but I will be concerned about that as my old Cerbera was a P Reg and the crankshaft failed around 33,000 miles but if you're going to rebuild the engine then no worries they are imho my thoughts

[ukkid35]

Chimp871 said:

I know from experience when my engine overheated the oil bypass valve got stuck making the oil pressure plummet.

My understanding is that the RV8 oil bypass valve issue is often catastrophic. Whereas the issue with the AJP8 is that the spring simply gets weak with age, so oil pressure drops more gradually, and even though it only costs a fiver and takes minutes to change (once on a ramp) it gets missed.

However, that really would be the best case scenario - How lucky do you feel?

[CerbWill]

It'd be interesting to know what the oil pressure gauge was reading. Good gauge pressure + oil light = knackered oil pressure switch. If the gauge reads low & the light is on its a genuine problem (oil pressure warning light comes on at 10 PSI). I'm not sure how the oil pressure relief spring breaking could cause low pressure at hot idle only, I'd have thought it'd have had an effect regardless of engine temp and RPM, although I've not had one break on me yet.

[ukkid35]

CerbWill said:

It'd be interesting to know what the oil pressure gauge was reading. Good gauge pressure + oil light = knackered oil pressure switch. If the gauge reads low & the light is on its a genuine problem (oil pressure warning light comes on at 10 PSI). I'm not sure how the oil pressure relief spring breaking could cause low pressure at hot idle only, I'd have thought it'd have had an effect regardless of engine temp and RPM, although I've not had one break on me yet.

I was assuming it had universally low oil pressure, but the oil pressure warning light was only triggered at hot idle.

If the oil pressure is erratic that would point to aux shaft failure as Gruffalo suggested, and that means full rebuild.

[Byker28i]

billynobrakes said:

Reading through the description it sounds about right for a 20 year old car that obviously has had some work done but will need some tlc it will need new carpets and poss seats recovered, paint sounds tired so if it was me I would want to take a closer look to see what cosmetics needs doing and it's only done 32,000 miles the problem with early engines was the crankshaft snapping but if it's not gone by now it should be ok but I will be concerned about that as my old Cerbera was a P Reg and the crankshaft failed around 33,000 miles but if you're going to rebuild the engine then no worries they are imho my thoughts

You make it sound as if every early 4.2 had snapping cranks. I don't believe it was that many and there's still quite a few running with original engines and high mileage.

Car looks good for it's age. Are those upgraded brakes?
Worse case scenario is factor in £5k for an engine rebuild.

[Jhonno]

Byker28i said:

You make it sound as if every early 4.2 had snapping cranks. I don't believe it was that many and there's still quite a few running with original engines and high mileage.

Car looks good for it's age. Are those upgraded brakes?
Worse case scenario is factor in £5k for an engine rebuild.

I don't know what APM charge but it is 8k inc VAT for a basic Powers rebuild I believe.

[Outl4w]

I'm a P reg 4.2 on what I believe to be the original engine (although potention "refresh", whatever that means?) and on 74k ish miles now.

Still going strong and doesn't miss a beat. Never not started and never caused me a problem, but always looked after and serviced with no expense spared......

Don't think this helps but maybe gives some context....?

J

[Chimp871]

ukkid35 said:

My understanding is that the RV8 oil bypass valve issue is often catastrophic. Whereas the issue with the AJP8 is that the spring simply gets weak with age, so oil pressure drops more gradually, and even though it only costs a fiver and takes minutes to change (once on a ramp) it gets missed.

However, that really would be the best case scenario - How lucky do you feel?

Yes it's a gamble isn't it. I'm erring on offering a low price in case a new engine it required and he prepared to walk away if refused.

All tvr cars carry a risk, but ripping them apart is a draw for some reason.

Keep having to remind myself, buy on condition........

[Pearcy]

I had look at this one as I'm looking for something fun for the weekends and was local to me. The oil pressure was consistently v.low, around 40 on cold start (not stone cold as had been run 6 hours earlier) but dropped down to 15-20, barely on the gauge within 5 mins of idling (900 rpm) On the move it didn't get above 30 irrespective of rpm/throttle position. Interestingly the paperwork showed a couple of dealer invoices to fix low oil pressure from 3 years ago (2k miles). Once returned from a short run the oil pressure was not registering and oil light flickering. Water temp by this point was 95 but didn't go higher.

The top end did sound particularly tapperty although I believe being an early 4.2 it's a clatter cam engine and I have only heard a 4.5 to compare to. No invoices for any valve clearance checks/adjustments.

Interior looked/smelt like it had previously had a leak and would benefit from new carpets and re-trim. Paint looked good from a distance but up close would benefit from a respray. Chassis had been covered in thick black underseal from underneath so not possible to easily determine how solid it is.

All in my opinion of course. Worth buying if you're handy with the spanners and can do most of the work yourself but perhaps a £25k+ car if you get specialists to do all of the work

[Pearcy]

Update, I would add that the work carried out by the seller did appear to be to a good standard (brakes, wiper motor, starter motor). A shame there weren't any pics of the chassis prior to undersealing though so chassis condition is a question mark.

Anyway listing now removed so likely to have sold