The new acquistion 430 Chimaera
Discussion
Brithunter said:
We are not sure how sringent the testing is here on emissions and CATs so we will avoid removing or damaging them if at all possible. At least until we learn more! Maybe it will be possible to remove the CATs entirely?
For emissions, it's the main cat you need, the pre cats can go. What most do when they decat is either take off the y piece with the main cat in it, and fit an act or one from Clive, keeping the original, or get a second y piece from a scrap yard. When it is time for the Mot, just swap the y piece back to the original and put your white resistor back on so that the emissions come down to the right levels. 
jazzdude said:
For emissions, it's the main cat you need, the pre cats can go. What most do when they decat is either take off the y piece with the main cat in it, and fit an act or one from Clive, keeping the original, or get a second y piece from a scrap yard. When it is time for the Mot, just swap the y piece back to the original and put your white resistor back on so that the emissions come down to the right levels.
Hmmm this is an early Chimaera with the multi bolt flanges so not sure how easy or hard to keep changing them. Plus finding a Clive Y piece is not so easy. have no idea about the white resistor, what it does, or where to find it???I had my 500 mapped by Jools including a 20afm, the car was totally transformed, I can't say the shunting has been eliminated, but greatly reduced, I also have no cold start issues whatsoever, before I had to start it and feather the throttle for 30 secs before I could drive it.
Other than the obvious power increase, the car was transformed, this was completed over 2 years ago
Other than the obvious power increase, the car was transformed, this was completed over 2 years ago
Litcoat said:
Alright all, just been reading this post, what exactly is this shunting that everyone talks about
Cheers Mark
It's where 14CUX, aka the Fat Controller, tells Thomas to move the carriage slowly into a siding, but Thomas isn't very careful and moves the carriage very jerkily.Cheers Mark
Brithunter said:
QBee said:
The feel of the throttle is much improved if you remove one of the two big throttle return springs. Mine has run like this for the last 35,000 miles with no issues.
Will suggest to heath that when he is doing the leads and checking plugs, dizzy, cap etcBrithunter said:
Hmmm this is an early Chimaera with the multi bolt flanges so not sure how easy or hard to keep changing them. Plus finding a Clive Y piece is not so easy. have no idea about the white resistor, what it does, or where to find it???
The chip in your ECU, as it originally comes off a Range Rover, has different fuel maps on it (5 if I am correct). One is for cats and low emissions (the white resistor) , one is for no cats (green resistor) and the others are rest of world, Saudi Arabia and Australia. To change the fuel map there is a resistor that sticks out of the thick bunch of wires that go into your ECU from the engine loom. You can find it in that mess quite easily, it's a white wire loop about 10cm long with a resistor in a rubber /plastic sheath that connects to the mess of wires with a blue push fit connector.
The white tune resistor as it is called I think has a value of 3900 ohms.
To access the green map you have to replace the white resistor with a resistor with a value of 470 ohms and this is the one I'm talking about.
There are loads of threads about this and one in particular that describes the process of creating your own chip from a green tune chip that is TVR specific to run on our cars.
The difference in running smoothness is night and day from the white tune.
This is what the white resistor looks like.
https://goo.gl/images/s6Ur7Y
Well done and know you will have a lot of fun with your TVR, some of it will be great and some not so great but the smile on your face during the good times sure makes up for the low points.
My advise to you is very simple, during the low times it is very easy to spend a lot of money on these beasts because you just want them to be well again, but with a logical approach and help from the wealth of experience within the TVR community it is quite often the simple stuff that is causing bad behavior.
For example, I have owned my 500 for around 13 years and 50k miles during 95% of the time has run very well on the standard set up, but during the last 3 months has started to run a bit rougher and with some shunting, so started to think about cam wear and perhaps aftermarket ECU.
A few weeks ago the rad started a small weep, so removed it for repair, during this time found the air filter had fallen apart and the original hose was looking a bit weak, most of this was covered in anti heat wrap so had been covered from normal eyeball in the engine bay. Upon replacement of hose (the standard type from a local hose and rubber stockiest at 15 pounds) and a new air filter the car was transformed, and the shunting and rough running was almost gone. A few weeks later had a non start problem which was caused by non prime of fuel pump, after much messing about in the foot well with fuses and relays turned out to be a bad connection at the pump - cut off the bad spade connector and made up a new one which sorted the problem - but low and behold this small act has also made a huge difference to performance and all bad behavior has gone.
I think my point here is that spending 2k plus on a new ECU would solve the problem but only because the 23 year old wiring and rubber pipe would have been thrown out with the bathwater.
Have fun
Andy
My advise to you is very simple, during the low times it is very easy to spend a lot of money on these beasts because you just want them to be well again, but with a logical approach and help from the wealth of experience within the TVR community it is quite often the simple stuff that is causing bad behavior.
For example, I have owned my 500 for around 13 years and 50k miles during 95% of the time has run very well on the standard set up, but during the last 3 months has started to run a bit rougher and with some shunting, so started to think about cam wear and perhaps aftermarket ECU.
A few weeks ago the rad started a small weep, so removed it for repair, during this time found the air filter had fallen apart and the original hose was looking a bit weak, most of this was covered in anti heat wrap so had been covered from normal eyeball in the engine bay. Upon replacement of hose (the standard type from a local hose and rubber stockiest at 15 pounds) and a new air filter the car was transformed, and the shunting and rough running was almost gone. A few weeks later had a non start problem which was caused by non prime of fuel pump, after much messing about in the foot well with fuses and relays turned out to be a bad connection at the pump - cut off the bad spade connector and made up a new one which sorted the problem - but low and behold this small act has also made a huge difference to performance and all bad behavior has gone.
I think my point here is that spending 2k plus on a new ECU would solve the problem but only because the 23 year old wiring and rubber pipe would have been thrown out with the bathwater.
Have fun
Andy
BeastMaster said:
Well done and know you will have a lot of fun with your TVR, some of it will be great and some not so great but the smile on your face during the good times sure makes up for the low points.
My advise to you is very simple, during the low times it is very easy to spend a lot of money on these beasts because you just want them to be well again, but with a logical approach and help from the wealth of experience within the TVR community it is quite often the simple stuff that is causing bad behavior.
For example, I have owned my 500 for around 13 years and 50k miles during 95% of the time has run very well on the standard set up, but during the last 3 months has started to run a bit rougher and with some shunting, so started to think about cam wear and perhaps aftermarket ECU.
A few weeks ago the rad started a small weep, so removed it for repair, during this time found the air filter had fallen apart and the original hose was looking a bit weak, most of this was covered in anti heat wrap so had been covered from normal eyeball in the engine bay. Upon replacement of hose (the standard type from a local hose and rubber stockiest at 15 pounds) and a new air filter the car was transformed, and the shunting and rough running was almost gone. A few weeks later had a non start problem which was caused by non prime of fuel pump, after much messing about in the foot well with fuses and relays turned out to be a bad connection at the pump - cut off the bad spade connector and made up a new one which sorted the problem - but low and behold this small act has also made a huge difference to performance and all bad behavior has gone.
I think my point here is that spending 2k plus on a new ECU would solve the problem but only because the 23 year old wiring and rubber pipe would have been thrown out with the bathwater.
Have fun
Andy
Agree 100%. Original road tests do not mention any of these running challenges and all of the parts, not some of them are 15-20 years old.My advise to you is very simple, during the low times it is very easy to spend a lot of money on these beasts because you just want them to be well again, but with a logical approach and help from the wealth of experience within the TVR community it is quite often the simple stuff that is causing bad behavior.
For example, I have owned my 500 for around 13 years and 50k miles during 95% of the time has run very well on the standard set up, but during the last 3 months has started to run a bit rougher and with some shunting, so started to think about cam wear and perhaps aftermarket ECU.
A few weeks ago the rad started a small weep, so removed it for repair, during this time found the air filter had fallen apart and the original hose was looking a bit weak, most of this was covered in anti heat wrap so had been covered from normal eyeball in the engine bay. Upon replacement of hose (the standard type from a local hose and rubber stockiest at 15 pounds) and a new air filter the car was transformed, and the shunting and rough running was almost gone. A few weeks later had a non start problem which was caused by non prime of fuel pump, after much messing about in the foot well with fuses and relays turned out to be a bad connection at the pump - cut off the bad spade connector and made up a new one which sorted the problem - but low and behold this small act has also made a huge difference to performance and all bad behavior has gone.
I think my point here is that spending 2k plus on a new ECU would solve the problem but only because the 23 year old wiring and rubber pipe would have been thrown out with the bathwater.
Have fun
Andy
Am not new to running older cars the newest car is an 02 Rover 75 CDT and it's table mate a 99 MGF 75th Anniversary that replaced a 97 MGF so fairly familar with componants aging, wearing, and failing with age. The F is old enough to be on Mems 1.9 and distributer.
I do not think that I am computer literate enough to start creating my own chips for the TVR so will have to leave that to those that are familar with it and good at it! Have been doing some reading and it seems that the 430 (4.2) uses a Blue chip according to ACT.
I do not think that I am computer literate enough to start creating my own chips for the TVR so will have to leave that to those that are familar with it and good at it! Have been doing some reading and it seems that the 430 (4.2) uses a Blue chip according to ACT.
Brithunter said:
Am not new to running older cars the newest car is an 02 Rover 75 CDT and it's table mate a 99 MGF 75th Anniversary that replaced a 97 MGF so fairly familar with componants aging, wearing, and failing with age. The F is old enough to be on Mems 1.9 and distributer.
I do not think that I am computer literate enough to start creating my own chips for the TVR so will have to leave that to those that are familar with it and good at it! Have been doing some reading and it seems that the 430 (4.2) uses a Blue chip according to ACT.
IMHO believe that remaps, new chips aftermarket ECU will have very little gain on these cars, they are very tolerant to fuel and have a very wide operational band in which they will run well.I do not think that I am computer literate enough to start creating my own chips for the TVR so will have to leave that to those that are familar with it and good at it! Have been doing some reading and it seems that the 430 (4.2) uses a Blue chip according to ACT.
In the modified cars and owners I have seen and spoken to the changes were made because of a fault and the frustration of trying to uncover a issue, most of them being intermittent - that is a lot of money to spend on fault finding with very little gains in other areas. Remaps have their place of course in order to take advantage of mechanical upgrades, but with the wider understanding of the existing system it has become a lot simpler.
I am just saying that your new car has some running issues, and you need to find the issue first - a remap, aftermarket chip will not address the problem.
As has been said before and agree, the best mod to improve all round running is to run the decat map, this works for me
Andy
wuckfitracing said:
Well done on choosing the rarest Chim. ??
Thank you ................................. still do not know what grabbed about the 430 but something sure did! as no matter how nice the 400's I looked at online and the one that I was kindly taken out in just kept being drawn back to looking at 430's.BeastMaster said:
IMHO believe that remaps, new chips aftermarket ECU will have very little gain on these cars, they are very tolerant to fuel and have a very wide operational band in which they will run well.
In the modified cars and owners I have seen and spoken to the changes were made because of a fault and the frustration of trying to uncover a issue, most of them being intermittent - that is a lot of money to spend on fault finding with very little gains in other areas. Remaps have their place of course in order to take advantage of mechanical upgrades, but with the wider understanding of the existing system it has become a lot simpler.
I am just saying that your new car has some running issues, and you need to find the issue first - a remap, aftermarket chip will not address the problem.
As has been said before and agree, the best mod to improve all round running is to run the decat map, this works for me
Andy
Perhaps I should consider a decat Y piece then. Get it fitted before she comes over then a green tune would not effect the CAT at all?In the modified cars and owners I have seen and spoken to the changes were made because of a fault and the frustration of trying to uncover a issue, most of them being intermittent - that is a lot of money to spend on fault finding with very little gains in other areas. Remaps have their place of course in order to take advantage of mechanical upgrades, but with the wider understanding of the existing system it has become a lot simpler.
I am just saying that your new car has some running issues, and you need to find the issue first - a remap, aftermarket chip will not address the problem.
As has been said before and agree, the best mod to improve all round running is to run the decat map, this works for me
Andy
Brithunter said:
Perhaps I should consider a decat Y piece then. Get it fitted before she comes over then a green tune would not effect the CAT at all?
That's the way to go and it is not difficult especially if you are considering a session with Jules. It's just a case of getting a chip with the tvr green tune on it (I'm sure someone will come along who has one or can make one for you), and then pull out the old chip and put in the new. As a caveat though this depends if your ecu is not one of those where the chip is soldered to the circuit board rather than having pins, in which case a tuner like Jules will be needed. I would say though that you have to be sure that the rest of the ignition and fuelling system is all working properly to get the full benefit as without doing that you may find the results are worse than before you started.
jazzdude said:
Brithunter said:
Perhaps I should consider a decat Y piece then. Get it fitted before she comes over then a green tune would not effect the CAT at all?
That's the way to go and it is not difficult especially if you are considering a session with Jules. It's just a case of getting a chip with the tvr green tune on it (I'm sure someone will come along who has one or can make one for you), and then pull out the old chip and put in the new. As a caveat though this depends if your ecu is not one of those where the chip is soldered to the circuit board rather than having pins, in which case a tuner like Jules will be needed. I would say though that you have to be sure that the rest of the ignition and fuelling system is all working properly to get the full benefit as without doing that you may find the results are worse than before you started.
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