Seat belt bolts

Seat belt bolts

Author
Discussion

skiver.

Original Poster:

656 posts

193 months

Thursday 12th October 2017
quotequote all
I've had both seat belts off for a refurb and to fit some nice new guides. Both the lower bolts holding the belts to the chassis mounts were difficult to remove but came out complete and won't go back. One feels like it will cross-thread and the other just will not 'bite' into the captive nut.
I've removed the seats for better access and tried new bolts but I think the nuts are corroded and will need re-tapping. The problem is these nuts are just above floor level and I need to find a way to tap them.
As usual, any help appreciated.

TwinKam

2,964 posts

95 months

Thursday 12th October 2017
quotequote all
Are you sure you're using the correct bolts? They'll be 7/16" UNF, not metric.
If you want to chase the captive thread, use the tap in a ratchet tap holder, or drive it with a 8 or 12 point socket and ratchet, or failing that, an open ended spanner.

phillpot

17,114 posts

183 months

Thursday 12th October 2017
quotequote all
Tool for the job......... Thread Restorers


Can't vouch for the quality of this kit, I wouldn't expect too much at that price, but should be good enough for occasional/hobby use?


N7GTX

7,855 posts

143 months

Thursday 12th October 2017
quotequote all
Or file a chamfer on the end of the bolts. This will take away any damaged lead thread and making the end of the bolt a fraction smaller will allow it to go in a touch more. Use a little grease to help.

BeastMaster

443 posts

187 months

Thursday 12th October 2017
quotequote all
N7GTX said:
Or file a chamfer on the end of the bolts. This will take away any damaged lead thread and making the end of the bolt a fraction smaller will allow it to go in a touch more. Use a little grease to help.
Using the old bolts with an angle grinder put 2 or 3 groves along the length, and the above chamfer which should make a thread cleaning tool, better to go in a few threads and out at a time than try and wind it straight in.

Andy

skiver.

Original Poster:

656 posts

193 months

Friday 13th October 2017
quotequote all
All very useful info, thanks.

BoostedChim

541 posts

225 months

Friday 13th October 2017
quotequote all
Is the fibreglass clear around the hole?

phillpot

17,114 posts

183 months

Friday 13th October 2017
quotequote all
BoostedChim said:
Is the fibreglass clear around the hole?
Mine was sort of "opaque" rather than clear, does it make a difference?

skiver.

Original Poster:

656 posts

193 months

Friday 13th October 2017
quotequote all
BoostedChim said:
Is the fibreglass clear around the hole?
Mine has thick metal spacers within the fibreglass which guide the bolt through if that's what you mean.

Anyway, job done now. I used a good quality tap and small open- ended spanner; worked a treat.

Thanks all thumbup



Edited by skiver. on Friday 13th October 15:26

TwinKam

2,964 posts

95 months

Friday 13th October 2017
quotequote all
skiver. said:
BoostedChim said:
Is the fibreglass clear around the hole?
Mine has thick metal spacers within the fibreglass which guide the bolt through if that's what you mean.

Anyway, job done now. I used a good quality tap and small open- ended spanner; worked a treat.

Thanks all thumbup



Edited by skiver. on Friday 13th October 15:26
Proper tools, proper job thumbup

phillpot

17,114 posts

183 months

Saturday 14th October 2017
quotequote all
There are three types of tap, it is all to easy to cut a new (cross) thread with a decent tap, particularly a "taper cut", if access is awkward , thread restorers or the improvised "cuts down the threads on a spare bolt" will find the original thread, in my experience wink

Taper, second and bottom.................




You're sorted, that's the main thing smile