Fitting door lights
Discussion
Some time ago someone spotted the door lights I'd fitted instead of the British Leyland ashtrays set into the doors and asked for details of the part number etc so while I was messing with the car today I popped one out and took a pic of the part number.
They just press into place but you need the extra bezel around them for them to be a good fit.
I've picked up a feed from the electric windows and haven't bothered wiring them into the door switches. In fact I haven't wired in the passenger light at all as I haven't had to remove the passenger door speaker yet.
They just press into place but you need the extra bezel around them for them to be a good fit.
I've picked up a feed from the electric windows and haven't bothered wiring them into the door switches. In fact I haven't wired in the passenger light at all as I haven't had to remove the passenger door speaker yet.
bobfather said:
These look like a great way to utilise the useless ashtrays but I'm struggling to understand what purpose the light serves. Are they wired to come on when the door opens?
They can be if you can be bothered to run a wire to the door switch in the sill.I use mine as a reading light as I rarely run with the hood or hoop in the up position so it acts as the switchable courtesy light.
It's a much better used of the holes in the doors then those bloody awful ashtrays.
bobfather said:
Does anyone know how to get power into the passenger door. Are there any spare wires in the existing loom
There is one unused wire (White/Purple) But ideally you need two wires. One as a permanent supply so you can switch the light on for map reading etc and the second to trigger the light from the door switches.On mine I am using the spare above and replacing the two pin connector with a 3 pin for the other wire.
Steve
Steve_D said:
There is one unused wire (White/Purple) But ideally you need two wires. One as a permanent supply so you can switch the light on for map reading etc and the second to trigger the light from the door switches.
On mine I am using the spare above and replacing the two pin connector with a 3 pin for the other wire.
Steve
I'll only be needing one feed wire as I intend to fit independent door push switches inside the doors to switch the -ve feed. That way each lamp only lights when that door opens. Easy enough then to wire so that it can be manually switched too. I also plan to replace the filament lamp with 239 LED's so that I get a nice white lightOn mine I am using the spare above and replacing the two pin connector with a 3 pin for the other wire.
Steve
The way to wire courtesy/interior lamps is with a constant unswitched supply, earthing them both through the inbuilt switch (to gain interior/map light), and through a door operated switch (to gain courtesy light).
These do look to have three terminals; one to 12+ve, one direct to earth, one to earth via door switch.
These do look to have three terminals; one to 12+ve, one direct to earth, one to earth via door switch.
TwinKam said:
The way to wire courtesy/interior lamps is with a constant unswitched supply, earthing them both through the inbuilt switch (to gain interior/map light), and through a door operated switch (to gain courtesy light).
These do look to have three terminals; one to 12+ve, one direct to earth, one to earth via door switch.
Agreed, That's my plan, I just thought it wound be good to have them operating independently so the lamp only auto lights when its door is open. It's easy to fit a couple of push switches hidden below the door sealsThese do look to have three terminals; one to 12+ve, one direct to earth, one to earth via door switch.
Also that means I only need to bring in one feed to the passenger door (permanent +ve) as there is a permanent -ve inside both doors
Edited by bobfather on Monday 26th November 16:27
Just a quick update, here's my working door lamp complete with delay/fade on door closing
https://youtu.be/MDS4l4sm9GQ
https://youtu.be/MDS4l4sm9GQ
phazed said:
I’d be interested to know what you used for the slow dimming and necessary wiring if you care to share.
LAND ROVER Defender 90 110 130 Interior light Door switch from here
Delay/fade device from here
I am aware that the fade device has a small parasitic drain like many other active vehicle devices. I have attempted to measure this drain but it is so small that it registers at the very bottom of my milliamp range. For now I'm assuming that the drain will be irrelevant but I am concerned that there is no 'off' switch on this lamp
eta
I also removed the spring securing clips from the lamp surround as I thought they could damage the door vinyl. The lamps hold firmly enough without those clips
Edited by bobfather on Thursday 13th December 08:58
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