Rovergauge soft ware

Rovergauge soft ware

Author
Discussion

LenChim

Original Poster:

225 posts

155 months

Friday 31st August 2018
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So I have a problem with my Chim 4.5 2001 . When it gets hot it hunts, the tick over goes from 1500 to 0 rpm, sometimes it trips over itself and stops. I was told that the "Rover gauge" system would give me an in-site to what is happening with engine.
I have bought the rovergauge cable and I have been told that I can down load the software from the net. Now not being a computer nerd I type in "Rovergauge soteware" I get lots of info about codes etc but nothing that says "Down load software here"?
Can anybody give me a link and any instructions as to what is required?
Many thanks.

Colin RedGriff

2,527 posts

257 months

Friday 31st August 2018
quotequote all
Windows zip file
https://github.com/colinbourassa/rovergauge/releas...

There installation instructions on this page at the bootom in the readme file
https://github.com/colinbourassa/rovergauge


Belle427

8,951 posts

233 months

Sunday 2nd September 2018
quotequote all

LenChim

Original Poster:

225 posts

155 months

Sunday 30th September 2018
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I have not been able to work on my car due to damaging my knee but I am now back. I have downloaded the software opened it up and plugged the computer into the car. Now I am to not cleaver with this sort of thing so of course I ran into a problem straight away. I assume what is the normal screen came up on the computer. Ignition on and engine running.


Pressed connect and got this message :- Error connecting to 14CUX no serial port specified. Set a serial device using " Opions-->" Edit settings.


So what do I do in :- "Put in serial device name"

blaze_away

1,506 posts

213 months

Sunday 30th September 2018
quotequote all
Cl8ck on the downward arrow in the "Serial...." box and choose the connection you have the lead plugged into. ie com1 or com2 etc

When you picked the right one click on "connect" and it will spring into life.

LenChim

Original Poster:

225 posts

155 months

Sunday 30th September 2018
quotequote all
The problem is there is nothing there when you press the drop down arrow on the box, I have tried typing in com1 and com2 but there is still no change.

blaze_away

1,506 posts

213 months

Sunday 30th September 2018
quotequote all
Right you need to get into your operating system to define your com ports.
What OS are you using ?

This thread might help.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

Edited by blaze_away on Sunday 30th September 19:49

blitzracing

6,387 posts

220 months

Sunday 30th September 2018
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You need to use device manager to identify what com's port the cable has been assigned, then copy this into the com port field. Mind you I really don't see why people buy cables on their own with no support or instruction when its the same prices as a kit with all the software and instructions on how to set it up and use it.

KevtheRev

123 posts

77 months

Sunday 30th September 2018
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Going back to your original fault, mine, like many, used to do the idle aberration thing when under bonnet temps rise after long idle.

I changed my vac advance pickup from ported to full vacuum as advocated by Chimpongas on this forum. Without going into the technicalities, this so reduced my under bonnet temps at idle, that it also cured the heat related idle aberration issues after sat idling for long periods.

Yes, get yourself up & running on RoverGauge, but I'd also consider this mod if you really believe your idle issues are under bonnet temperature related.

LenChim

Original Poster:

225 posts

155 months

Thursday 4th October 2018
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blaze_away said:
Right you need to get into your operating system to define your com ports.
What OS are you using ?

This thread might help.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

Edited by blaze_away on Sunday 30th September 19:49
OK Back again, I have tried many things.Made sure all the connections are clean ECU and rov cable socket etc.
I am running windows 7 so the info on 10 did not help but gave me an insight.
The device manager gives me the following:-


So what do you think I should put in the Connect to box?

This is the Wire I bought:-


As I could not get a connection I wanted to check the continuity from plug to plug, these are the fingers I got are they ok or do you think the lead is duff?

s p a c e m a n

10,777 posts

148 months

Thursday 4th October 2018
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How many usb ports does your laptop have? Have you tried typing com 3 in the box?

LenChim

Original Poster:

225 posts

155 months

Thursday 4th October 2018
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I have tried 1 through 4 , the computer has 3 ports.

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

109 months

Friday 5th October 2018
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Colin RedGriff said:
Windows zip file
https://github.com/colinbourassa/rovergauge/releas...

There installation instructions on this page at the bootom in the readme file
https://github.com/colinbourassa/rovergauge
Perhaps the above poster would have helped you if you had thanked him for his software and links

Anyway......Have you visited here and read through it https://github.com/colinbourassa/rovergauge/blob/m...

This following part of the Readme explains much.......

When the USB FTDI device is connected to the PC, its driver will present it
as a COM port if using Windows, or a /dev node if using Linux. Enter the name
of the device (such as "COM3") in the "Serial device name" field of the
"Edit settings" dialog, under the "Options" menu. (The software will attempt to
populate the list of serial devices automatically, so that you can simply
select it from the drop-down box.)

If you have followed the instructions in the Readme and are having no joy, I suggest that you check the cable and the vehicles wiring

blitzracing

6,387 posts

220 months

Friday 5th October 2018
quotequote all
Forget the car wiring for now- the important bit is the USB electronics- this is what windows picks up with plug and play- and as stated should show up as a coms device- typically com 3, 4 5. This com device should appear when you plug the cable in, and disappear as you remove it in device manager. You get a clunk from windows to show a plug and play device has been pushed into the USB socket if the cable is working. Unfortunately the cable you have has no lights on it, so you cant see the USB power or initialization on it. If you dont get the clunk noise from windows when you plug the cable it, it may be faulty.

Shown here as com 2



Edited by blitzracing on Friday 5th October 19:37

LenChim

Original Poster:

225 posts

155 months

Sunday 7th October 2018
quotequote all
When I plug the cable in it makes a clunk but does not show up on the comp or try and populate the field in the software.
Has any one in west Sussex got a cable I can try? I am going to try the cable and computer on another TVR Chim later.
As you can see I have tried to make some seance of the cable connection with no luck. I contacted the supplier of the cable and this was his reply:-

Dear len

Hi there
plug the cable into the cars 5 pin plug
switch ignition on
plug into computers usb port
run software

what com port does the software use
options
edit settings
serial device name
NOT com1 that is the physical com port on the back of the computer, should be another com port if not the usb lead drivers have not been installed

The usb to serial connecter has an intergrated between the two plugs so you won't get any meaningful readings

connections 1,5 and A are the zero volts or chassis connections whatever you want to call them.

How are you getting good connections with the usb connector with your multimeter

It really did not help much.

spitfire4v8

3,992 posts

181 months

Sunday 7th October 2018
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Send it back and get a refund. then get a proper kit from Blitz ^^

blitzracing

6,387 posts

220 months

Tuesday 9th October 2018
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You need to install the driver software for the FDTI chipset that the USB cable uses, or it wont appear in device manager.

BeastMaster

443 posts

187 months

Thursday 11th October 2018
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blitzracing said:
You need to install the driver software for the FDTI chipset that the USB cable uses, or it wont appear in device manager.
Hi Mark

Am running non cat without oxygen sensors, do you think it is worthwhile me having Rover Gauge in my tool box to help with any issues - if and when.

Would like to buy the whole thing in one kit if possible - where from ?

P.S. were you at the Neil Garner open day - looked like your car, never seen one before in flesh

blitzracing

6,387 posts

220 months

Friday 12th October 2018
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You wont get as much data from a non cat car, but its still good for all the sensor data, and some fault codes. Fault codes such as misfires and wrong fueling cant get picked up due to the lack of lambda feedback.


The kits are in TVR classified on PH or ebay if your prefer- search 14cux cable kit. You will need a laptop to drive RoverGauge , or there is an android version available if you want to use a phone on the playstore, but its pretty hard to use as it takes a lot of pre configuring, and you need an adapter to go from the full sized USB cable connector to the USB type c on the phones, so a laptop is a lot less pain. The guy on Ebay selling just cables wont provide any support / software or documentation, but has used my screen shots and text to go with his advert , that's confusing things.



Edited by blitzracing on Friday 12th October 13:01

Steve_D

13,746 posts

258 months

Friday 12th October 2018
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Mark didn't actually say, so yes it is still worthwhile.
The O2 sensors are only a pair of inputs not present so all the other sensors etc are still relevant.

Steve