Front End Knocking/Rattle/Banging
Discussion
Evening gents,
I've got an annoying rattle from the driver's side of the front axle which seems to get worse as the car warms up. This has been getting progressively worse for a few weeks now, not helped by my daily commute which involves a total of 13 speed humps each way!
I have replaced the front ARB drop links with new ones from TVR parts but I'm afraid this had made no difference. There is also no real play in the steering or push or pull in the front wheels. The steering does feel slightly more vague than a few weeks ago but not massively. The sound does not go away when braking. I'd appreciate any suggestions of what to check next.
Here is a video of the noise when pushing down hard on the driver's front wing: https://youtu.be/6BgqZPckqoM
Any help massively appreciated!
Alex
I've got an annoying rattle from the driver's side of the front axle which seems to get worse as the car warms up. This has been getting progressively worse for a few weeks now, not helped by my daily commute which involves a total of 13 speed humps each way!
I have replaced the front ARB drop links with new ones from TVR parts but I'm afraid this had made no difference. There is also no real play in the steering or push or pull in the front wheels. The steering does feel slightly more vague than a few weeks ago but not massively. The sound does not go away when braking. I'd appreciate any suggestions of what to check next.
Here is a video of the noise when pushing down hard on the driver's front wing: https://youtu.be/6BgqZPckqoM
Any help massively appreciated!
Alex
The upper wishbone rear bush is subject to heat from the exhaust manifold. The rubber in the metalastic bush completely melts away in time and will leave a rattly metal to metal bush. Also as the exhaust heats up, any remaining rubber will soften causing a louder rattle. Worth a look at it. With the wheel off and suspension supported on an axle stand, a good shake of the wishbone should show if this is the issue.
Dougal.
Dougal.
QBee said:
I would be getting the car along to an expert for a diagnosis - somewhere like Kent TVR or Taylor TVR.
Thanks Anthony, Taylor's is about a 50 minute drive from me so that's an option. I've provisionally booked in with Elmwood TVR who are just down the road from me but they can't see the car until the 15th! Shall I just book in with an Indy friend of mine and save myself the hassle?Also, if I disconnect the shock absorber (GAZ mono) whilst it's jacked up and move hub up and down by hand, surely I'll be able to isolate whether it's the damper that's causing the noise or not?
Those top wishbone bushes are mighty close to the manifold so totally plausible that they are getting heated by the exhaust.
phazed said:
It could well be one of the suspension bushes top or bottom. Alternatively it has been known for the damper itself to wear and knock in its travel.
I had this with a new set of Nitron Dampers.
This ^ that noise is so prominent you just need a bouncer and a feeler by this I mean someone holding their hands on the individual components (inc damper body) on the side in question whilst the steering is on lock (hopefully the noise will still be present) so access can be made with an arm or via under-bonnet that knock is so noticeable it cant be hard to diagnosis ill tell you that much I had this with a new set of Nitron Dampers.
Sardonicus said:
This ^ that noise is so prominent you just need a bouncer and a feeler by this I mean someone holding their hands on the individual components (inc damper body) on the side in question whilst the steering is on lock (hopefully the noise will still be present) so access can be made with an arm or via under-bonnet that knock is so noticeable it cant be hard to diagnosis ill tell you that much
Thanks mate, hadn't tried that! I'll give that a go!Don’t trap your fingers!
I routinely take all knocking noises to Nigel. Nigel is less than a mile down the road from me, is an MOT tester, loves his cars (he drag races a 4.6 Moggy Minor and runs a Humber Hawk with a Ford 302 up front as his daily), and cares that people are safe.
The last knocking/grinding noise turned out to be a failed wheel bearing in my wife’s 18 year old Saab.
Sardonicus cannot be far from you Alex (well, at least in the same county). TVR owner warning.....Simon is one, so allow an extra hour for chatting.
I routinely take all knocking noises to Nigel. Nigel is less than a mile down the road from me, is an MOT tester, loves his cars (he drag races a 4.6 Moggy Minor and runs a Humber Hawk with a Ford 302 up front as his daily), and cares that people are safe.
The last knocking/grinding noise turned out to be a failed wheel bearing in my wife’s 18 year old Saab.
Sardonicus cannot be far from you Alex (well, at least in the same county). TVR owner warning.....Simon is one, so allow an extra hour for chatting.
Edited by QBee on Sunday 2nd September 11:50
Took the car to my mechanic today after lunch. Surprisingly not that obvious to find considering how loud the noise is!
Turns out the driver's lower front ball joint has a some play and goes clunk. The reason for it being so loud and sounding like it's coming from the entire front axle is because it's transmitting through the steering arm to the chassis. Hence why I can feel it in the steering and in my left foot as it rests in the footwell.
Ordered a new one from TVR parts and hopefully fit it the evening it comes and report back.
Turns out the driver's lower front ball joint has a some play and goes clunk. The reason for it being so loud and sounding like it's coming from the entire front axle is because it's transmitting through the steering arm to the chassis. Hence why I can feel it in the steering and in my left foot as it rests in the footwell.
Ordered a new one from TVR parts and hopefully fit it the evening it comes and report back.
Quick update on this. New ball joint came from TVR parts, 3 holes in the mounting plate didn't line up with the wishbone so it was recommended that I file the holes in the ball joint out to match the wishbone. This took about 30-40 minutes using a rotary file on a corded drill. Apparently it's just pot luck whether they fit right away or not. Fitted on Saturday and took the car for a drive.
Clacking noise is still there from the front right so going back to my mechanic today to investigate further. The old ball joint was shagged so it's good it's been changed, hopefully find the true cause of the noise this afternoon.
Clacking noise is still there from the front right so going back to my mechanic today to investigate further. The old ball joint was shagged so it's good it's been changed, hopefully find the true cause of the noise this afternoon.
Looks like my driver's front Gaz Monotube is buggered. It no longer clicks when adjusted (apparently a sign that they've lost their gas) and there's no visible play in anything else we can see.
Going to be sending the shock off to Gaz for a rebuild (£40 + VAT quoted). That bottom bolt looks a right @#?! to get out.
Going to be sending the shock off to Gaz for a rebuild (£40 + VAT quoted). That bottom bolt looks a right @#?! to get out.
AlexHillTVR said:
Looks like my driver's front Gaz Monotube is buggered. It no longer clicks when adjusted (apparently a sign that they've lost their gas) and there's no visible play in anything else we can see.
Going to be sending the shock off to Gaz for a rebuild (£40 + VAT quoted). That bottom bolt looks a right @#?! to get out.
Yep, thin neck spanner, plenty of lube and patience. It’s a fine thread too,,, Going to be sending the shock off to Gaz for a rebuild (£40 + VAT quoted). That bottom bolt looks a right @#?! to get out.
Classic Chim said:
Yep, thin neck spanner, plenty of lube and patience. It’s a fine thread too,,,
Was actually quite easy to get out in the end. Two spanners and some creative use of them, 15-20 minutes on that bolt and the only swearing was because my arms ached from holding them up in the air.Shock sent off to GAZ today so hopefully back within a week. I really hope this is the cause of the knocking because we're at a loss if not.
See not so bad,,,,
Now’s the time to get a jimmy bar and try moving the top wishbone at its rear mounting, try all 4 really. Check top and bottom ball joint nuts are fully secured too. Can’t be much else.
Bell,Gaz tell em you want a faster turn around, should be back with you in a couple of days.
Ok shock came back from GAZ today who did a fantastic job rebuilding it. Came in at £75 in the end including the P&P which is a bit more than quoted but still quite cheap seeing as the GAZ Monos are a shade over £1,000 for the set!
Readjusted to 12-off fully soft, fitted it and the knocking has gone. No more banging when pushing down on the front of the car and no more knocking when going over bumpy roads. Literally only drove it 1km round the block but no hint of any knocking so far.
If you don't hear from me tomorrow it's case closed I think
Readjusted to 12-off fully soft, fitted it and the knocking has gone. No more banging when pushing down on the front of the car and no more knocking when going over bumpy roads. Literally only drove it 1km round the block but no hint of any knocking so far.
If you don't hear from me tomorrow it's case closed I think
These things happen occasionally.
I have had my monos since before they came out as they were preproduction so at least eight or nine years, possibly more. They have been serviced a couple times but I’ve never had any problem with them.
Conversely, I had a brand-new set of nitrous and they were knocking from the word go. They did repair them, just saying.
I have had my monos since before they came out as they were preproduction so at least eight or nine years, possibly more. They have been serviced a couple times but I’ve never had any problem with them.
Conversely, I had a brand-new set of nitrous and they were knocking from the word go. They did repair them, just saying.
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