Top end tappety type noise
Discussion
QBee said:
Do me a favour......please just try swapping over 5 and 7 plug caps then start the engine with your digital thermometer in your hand. It will only take three minutes tops.
Then tell me i am wrong.
The leads are in the correct order but stranger things have happened, no harm in trying. Then tell me i am wrong.
Makes sense to check injector fuel supply etc before moving on
What a game.
blaze_away said:
Apologies for delay......swmbo interference currently being experienced and may go on for some hours................
I am eternally mystified by this strange belief on the distaff side of the house that they have some preordained right to interfere with scared mancave time. 
QBee said:
I am eternally mystified by this strange belief on the distaff side of the house that they have some preordained right to interfere with scared mancave time.
Its amazing what a nice quiet row can do......so I have been attending to stuff and can report the following. Its amazing now how quiet it is in the house, probably be speaking to each other sometime mid week.swapping leads 5 & 7.......................can ran a little worse, definite and noticeable missing on 1 cylinder(s) .
Swap out the following components for known good ones supplied by QBee and JoJackson
Coil, Amp, Leads, Cap , Rotor Arm
No change 5 and 7 still much cooler than all others. Pulled plug lead 7 off whilst idling no change in engine tone at all, did get massive jolt though so it is for sure getting a spark.
Plan B for tomorrow
1. Repeat Compression testing on warmer engine.
(I find its so damn hot, its difficult to work quickly enough, to get all plugs out and tester plugged in its cooled down quite a lot before testing can begin and getting squirt of oil in for wet test is also not easy)
2. Whip off the fuel rail and see how much each injector is delivering.
3. Measure valve movement (as per Steve's advice with rockers off)
4. If nothing found then heads off for internal inspection.
FWIW No evidence of oil/water contamination either way all drained oil was clean as was water. Oil side of engine inside all covers and valley really clean as said before gets frequent oil changes. Water pump bright and clean and as new fitted 3 years ago about 10 miles on it.
QBee said:
blaze_away said:
Apologies for delay......swmbo interference currently being experienced and may go on for some hours................
I am eternally mystified by this strange belief on the distaff side of the house that they have some preordained right to interfere with scared mancave time. Cmpression test results are in.
Warm engine
All cylinders similar numbers between 120 and 135 warm dry engine.
2 oil can squirts of oil in each cylinder raised every cylinder 15
Note its only a cheapo tester not sure of its absolute accuracy. What it does show is that 5 and 7 arent too different to all the others, or am I reaching wrong conclusions ?
Warm engine
All cylinders similar numbers between 120 and 135 warm dry engine.
2 oil can squirts of oil in each cylinder raised every cylinder 15
Note its only a cheapo tester not sure of its absolute accuracy. What it does show is that 5 and 7 arent too different to all the others, or am I reaching wrong conclusions ?
Steve_D said:
All you needed was a comparison not ultimate accuracy.
So compression is not the issue but could still be the cam.
Injectors?
Steve
Thanks SteveSo compression is not the issue but could still be the cam.
Injectors?
Steve
Thats my thoughts too.
I did swap injectors around earlier in this saga but will do it again and compare volumes delivered and check cam lift
Injectors work when swapped around and stethoscope test shows even failing pots have consistent clicking in line with all the others but a fuel volume test would be interesting none the less.
Ignition system has been completely overhauled and shows a lovely fat consistent spark on all cylinders,,
It’s a conundrum still,
We’re going in again, wish us luck.
Ignition system has been completely overhauled and shows a lovely fat consistent spark on all cylinders,,
It’s a conundrum still,
We’re going in again, wish us luck.
Just read this thread if you want to identify or pin point a possible inj issue then move the suspect unit on the rail but right away from the suspect cyl like 1 to 7 for example of left to right bank , invest in a set of inj O rings and some Vaseline or silicone grease for rebuild but clean around the inj openings with some kind of penetrating oil stray before removal you dont want years of accumulated s
t falling into the intakes , take your time
t falling into the intakes , take your time Edited by Sardonicus on Monday 24th June 10:24
Think we've found something.
Valley gasket distorted around No7 cylinder obstructing the intake. I must have done that on reassembly after fixing the rockers.
No wonder we, or any of you guys too, couldn't figure it out.
So when we found we had compression, spark and fuel we did but we maybe also had a huge air leak too on 7.
Will reassemble with new gasket and test to see if we get all 8 cylinders running, then on to see if we can get back track fixing the top end tappet noise.
The cam lift numbers look good I think, with 1.6 rocket factor that means
valve lift inlet mm are
1 7.7 at lobe = 12.3 mm at valve
3 7.3 at lobe = 11.7 mm at valve
5 6.8 at lobe = 10.9 mm at valve
7 7.1 at lobe = 11.4 mm a valve
valve lift exhaust mm are
1 7.3 = 11.7
3 7.9 = 12.6
5 7.7 = 12.3
7 7.2 = 11.5
Comparing these with Kent etc specs they look very healthy
Valley gasket distorted around No7 cylinder obstructing the intake. I must have done that on reassembly after fixing the rockers.
No wonder we, or any of you guys too, couldn't figure it out.
So when we found we had compression, spark and fuel we did but we maybe also had a huge air leak too on 7.
Will reassemble with new gasket and test to see if we get all 8 cylinders running, then on to see if we can get back track fixing the top end tappet noise.
The cam lift numbers look good I think, with 1.6 rocket factor that means
valve lift inlet mm are
1 7.7 at lobe = 12.3 mm at valve
3 7.3 at lobe = 11.7 mm at valve
5 6.8 at lobe = 10.9 mm at valve
7 7.1 at lobe = 11.4 mm a valve
valve lift exhaust mm are
1 7.3 = 11.7
3 7.9 = 12.6
5 7.7 = 12.3
7 7.2 = 11.5
Comparing these with Kent etc specs they look very healthy
Do I remember from somewhere that the cylinders are linked in pairs, so if you have a huge air leak on 7, it will affect the performance of 5?
I may well be dreaming - I dreamt last night that i had left my metal detector out in the rain, which is all well and good, but I have never owned a metal detector.
I may well be dreaming - I dreamt last night that i had left my metal detector out in the rain, which is all well and good, but I have never owned a metal detector.
QBee said:
Do I remember from somewhere that the cylinders are linked in pairs, so if you have a huge air leak on 7, it will affect the performance of 5?
I may well be dreaming - I dreamt last night that i had left my metal detector out in the rain, which is all well and good, but I have never owned a metal detector.
Interesting, that dream means that if you do the lottery you will pick the right numbers not necessarily on the right day or in the right combination. If your metal detector gets rusty let me know as I can dream about one for you and I can lend it to you.I may well be dreaming - I dreamt last night that i had left my metal detector out in the rain, which is all well and good, but I have never owned a metal detector.
Regarding air leak and gasket, I feel such a pillock I have no idea how I could have folded that over refitting it. Very relieved though. Interesting about 7 & 5 inlet being linked as 5 was also colder than 1 and 3
Yeh i'd say thats your problem 
did you re-use the valley gasket or something? not sure what/how you have done this 
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