Driving characteristics 4.0 v 4.5 v 5.0 - after 250-300bhp
Discussion
QBee said:
Similar money for the turbo conversion - mine, including intercooler, oil cooler and installation was around £3,800, and you could run it on the 14 CUX, so add a bit for mapping. But it is much better with an aftermarket fuel and spark mapped ECU (I went Emerald), which will add a couple of grand installed and mapped to your bill.
The OP could do worse than a cheap and cheerful turbo install, no intercooler or anything fancy, I wouldn't even fit a dump valve .. say 5psi, still on lucas ecu .. the whole lot could be done for around 3000 pounds and would be closer to 300hp than 250 ..cheap RV8 power
Here's some na induction racket from our development work in May 2018 
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https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=142168...
About time we put a decent video together of the car on the road or track instead, sounds awesome from inside the car
Unfortunately I can't make it to Cadwell, simply cannot take time off work on a Friday with our current workload. There is a TVR show held at Castle Combe on Sunday May 5th - I know there is racing on Monday but anyone know if the track is available for use on the Sunday during the TVR show?
- https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=142168...
About time we put a decent video together of the car on the road or track instead, sounds awesome from inside the car
Unfortunately I can't make it to Cadwell, simply cannot take time off work on a Friday with our current workload. There is a TVR show held at Castle Combe on Sunday May 5th - I know there is racing on Monday but anyone know if the track is available for use on the Sunday during the TVR show?
A 4.6 or 4.8 litre with mild camshaft and Rotrex supercharger would make a supremely smooth yet powerful engine.
Camshafts are always a compromise and the TVR spec engines do use cams that sacrifice some degree of smoothness to obtain more power - they are basically a crutch to partially overcome the head restrictions. We have designed some mental custom camshafts in the past to take this approach further but although they then make more power they also give crap idle quality, reduce drive-ability and reduce longevity.
A better approach if budget allows is either better heads or forced induction - or both!!
Camshafts are always a compromise and the TVR spec engines do use cams that sacrifice some degree of smoothness to obtain more power - they are basically a crutch to partially overcome the head restrictions. We have designed some mental custom camshafts in the past to take this approach further but although they then make more power they also give crap idle quality, reduce drive-ability and reduce longevity.
A better approach if budget allows is either better heads or forced induction - or both!!
As the OP, thanks for all the replies. Sorry for my delayed reply, currently delivering one of my rally cars to its new owner, which involves a round trip from the south coast to Cumbria! Thank you very much to those who have offered to let me try their cars, you seem to live miles north of me sadly, by coincidence I will be passing you all tomorrow on my way back down south, but have a busy day, particularly as I hope to be returning with a new toy or two on the trailer 😁
I would be very interested to try a turbo’d TVR, I already have one turbo’d V8 with over 600bhp (a 12c) so don’t feel the need for huge power from the TVR and would prefer to keep NA, although prepared to be persuaded... I’d be very keen to get recommendations and costs of a head and cam change. Engine seems good, 4.0, 55k and smooth. Would a full rebuild be recommended if I went for new head and cams? I don’t mind the car being slightly lumpy on tickover, it’s character and not a daily driver after all! My previous Chimaera was apparently a standard 4.0, but a really good engine putting out 232bhp on Surrey RR, the most powerful they had tested at the time. New one not quite as quick, hence thinking 250-300bhp a good number for my uses. Not looking for track use, just fast road, with the ability to unstick the rear tyres on demand at most sane speeds, even on dry tarmac. I may use the car for the odd tarmac autosolo too, for those that haven’t seen it here’s an example on grass in one of my previous Chimaeras, turn up the volume 😎
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kyeChgOvhrs
I would be very interested to try a turbo’d TVR, I already have one turbo’d V8 with over 600bhp (a 12c) so don’t feel the need for huge power from the TVR and would prefer to keep NA, although prepared to be persuaded... I’d be very keen to get recommendations and costs of a head and cam change. Engine seems good, 4.0, 55k and smooth. Would a full rebuild be recommended if I went for new head and cams? I don’t mind the car being slightly lumpy on tickover, it’s character and not a daily driver after all! My previous Chimaera was apparently a standard 4.0, but a really good engine putting out 232bhp on Surrey RR, the most powerful they had tested at the time. New one not quite as quick, hence thinking 250-300bhp a good number for my uses. Not looking for track use, just fast road, with the ability to unstick the rear tyres on demand at most sane speeds, even on dry tarmac. I may use the car for the odd tarmac autosolo too, for those that haven’t seen it here’s an example on grass in one of my previous Chimaeras, turn up the volume 😎
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kyeChgOvhrs
notax said:
As the OP, thanks for all the replies. Sorry for my delayed reply, currently delivering one of my rally cars to its new owner, which involves a round trip from the south coast to Cumbria! Thank you very much to those who have offered to let me try their cars, you seem to live miles north of me sadly, by coincidence I will be passing you all tomorrow on my way back down south, but have a busy day, particularly as I hope to be returning with a new toy or two on the trailer ??
I would be very interested to try a turbo’d TVR, I already have one turbo’d V8 with over 600bhp (a 12c) so don’t feel the need for huge power from the TVR and would prefer to keep NA, although prepared to be persuaded... I’d be very keen to get recommendations and costs of a head and cam change. Engine seems good, 4.0, 55k and smooth. Would a full rebuild be recommended if I went for new head and cams? I don’t mind the car being slightly lumpy on tickover, it’s character and not a daily driver after all! My previous Chimaera was apparently a standard 4.0, but a really good engine putting out 232bhp on Surrey RR, the most powerful they had tested at the time. New one not quite as quick, hence thinking 250-300bhp a good number for my uses. Not looking for track use, just fast road, with the ability to unstick the rear tyres on demand at most sane speeds, even on dry tarmac. I may use the car for the odd tarmac autosolo too, for those that haven’t seen it here’s an example on grass in one of my previous Chimaeras, turn up the volume ??
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kyeChgOvhrs
Very amusing, and people say Chim’s don’t handle well I would be very interested to try a turbo’d TVR, I already have one turbo’d V8 with over 600bhp (a 12c) so don’t feel the need for huge power from the TVR and would prefer to keep NA, although prepared to be persuaded... I’d be very keen to get recommendations and costs of a head and cam change. Engine seems good, 4.0, 55k and smooth. Would a full rebuild be recommended if I went for new head and cams? I don’t mind the car being slightly lumpy on tickover, it’s character and not a daily driver after all! My previous Chimaera was apparently a standard 4.0, but a really good engine putting out 232bhp on Surrey RR, the most powerful they had tested at the time. New one not quite as quick, hence thinking 250-300bhp a good number for my uses. Not looking for track use, just fast road, with the ability to unstick the rear tyres on demand at most sane speeds, even on dry tarmac. I may use the car for the odd tarmac autosolo too, for those that haven’t seen it here’s an example on grass in one of my previous Chimaeras, turn up the volume ??
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kyeChgOvhrs
That is extreme use considering the dust but I did the same in an XJ8 saloon on wet grass, what a craic.
I knew your original post suggested a bloke who knew a thing or two and anyone who likes the back end out is a hero in my book
I doubt a turbo will help on that field
but will get you spinning the wheels on tarmac easily enough. I’ve found with 300 hp and Rainsport 3 tyres your chances of power oversteer are much reduced but I have a set of old tyres that do that trick very easily but not always when you actually want to,,,,
If your ok with lumpy low speed manners, big old Cam and Joolz tuning the CUX seems the obvious thing.
It’s worth travelling for a ride in Phazed car but that’s another extreme entirely,,,as is any Turbo car although I find them less impressive personally but that don’t make it wrong. It sort of reminds me of body builders who are full off steroids rather than true strength but that’s my problem. For me it’s a combined factor of power and sound I like not just power alone.
I raced grsss bikes and after that you can never find enough power so rather than be disappointed I’ve opted for a useable car more than just a fast one.
If you want to provoke the rear weels it’s probably better to go for as much torque as you can but then I reckon you know that
Ace vid, made my day
griffdude said:
Interesting stuff.. The rotrex really is a good solution.
A good friend of mine has just had his 5L rebuilt with a TVR 885 cam & CANEMS ECU by the gentleman above, on the rollers it produced 273 hp on the dyno at Northampton Motorsport.
Clearly FI is the way to go.
And if mapped correctly, forced induction is smooth and predictable power A good friend of mine has just had his 5L rebuilt with a TVR 885 cam & CANEMS ECU by the gentleman above, on the rollers it produced 273 hp on the dyno at Northampton Motorsport.
Clearly FI is the way to go.
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