Door Lock Relay

Door Lock Relay

Author
Discussion

laracer

Original Poster:

199 posts

166 months

Friday 16th August 2019
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Does anyone know where this relay is located (1995 Chimaera) ? - taken the dash cover off and also searched in the glove box hatch but no joy :-(


ChimpOnGas

9,637 posts

178 months

Saturday 17th August 2019
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Under the dash on the passenger side and right in the corner.


laracer

Original Poster:

199 posts

166 months

Saturday 17th August 2019
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Thanks for the reply - not there on my car - looks like it has been replaced by a Cobra 1046 unit which I now suspect is at the root of my unlocking problems :-(

Belle427

8,864 posts

232 months

Sunday 18th August 2019
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Cobra are one of the easier manufacturers to find diagrams for online and spares, should find what your looking for.


laracer

Original Poster:

199 posts

166 months

Sunday 18th August 2019
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The plot thickens - The Cobra door locking unit is connected into the immobiliser and main loom by some rough wiring/connections. The immobiliser is activated by the Cobra remote and this function works ok, my problem is that there is a very intermittent (around 1 in 50) unlocking function for the doors.
Obviously I will have to go through all this with a multi meter and try and sort out the fault/wiring.

Can't find anything out about using a Cobra door locking unit working in connection with an immobiliser - seems to be a stand alone unit/function - if I unplug the Cobra unit the immobiliser is activated and car will not start :-(

Can anyone identify the immobiliser? - the circuit board is marked TVR - XP4


Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

108 months

Sunday 18th August 2019
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This may help you work through the wiring

I don't know the immobiliser that you have shown above, there is a good chance that the immobiliser is being armed by the cobra 1046 by using its window closure output cable or its LED ON/OFF output, the thing is I can't find the LED outputs at the 1046 connector, sometimes there is a hard wired LED with its wiring going straight in through the cobra casing

Does your 1046 operate an LED?

See below diagrams, the chances are that your vehicles central locking is wired as shown at the very bottom of the PDF (I include the link)



http://www.clifford.nl/pdf/secure/manuals/Cobra%20...

Good luck in finding the fault

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

108 months

Sunday 18th August 2019
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The 1046 doesn't seem to have an LED


Remote Locking Unit
Keyless Entry System
Mini Modular Design
6 Wire Central Locking
Total Closure Facility
Self Learning Radio Remote Keys
LED Indication on Remote Keys
Hazard lights flash to indicate lock/unlock



I suspect someone has wired the window closure output to switch the immobiliser ON/OFF, there is a possibility that the central locking circuit has been used to arm/disarm the immobiliser

There may well be relays added and wired into the circuits If someone has used one of the above methods

laracer

Original Poster:

199 posts

166 months

Sunday 18th August 2019
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Thanks very much for the information Mr Pitstop - I will carryout some more investigation over the next few of days and report back - I have a feeling this may take some time wobble

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

108 months

Sunday 18th August 2019
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Glad to be of some help
It may help if you remove the tape between the Cobra and immobiliser before you start checking, perhaps all will be revealed before reaching for the meter

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

108 months

Sunday 18th August 2019
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I'm not sure of the fault you are checking through

Is the fault that the Cobra will only unlock the doors 1 in 50 attempts

Thinking on....Although I've commented "the chances are that your vehicles central locking is wired as shown at the very bottom of the PDF".........Someone could have wired it in differently.....please be aware of this

Something else to think about.......Should someone have run cables from the Cobra to a doors locking/unlocking motor and made the connections in the door, bad connections or broken door loom cables could cause the above fault

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

108 months

Monday 19th August 2019
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I have recently viewed a topic that shows a TVR - XP4 unit

See https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=10...

A poster mentions it being an Alarm unit with Central Door Locking

I now have a hunch that the central locking circuit in your vehicles TVR - XP4 unit failed sometime in the past and that Italamec CDL unit was added to overcome the problem

I am as certain as can be that the TVR XP4 unit includes the following and is a basic alarm system that can be easily replaced

Alarm

Central Door Locking

Immobilisation (The chances are that the immobilisation is of the single circuit type but could be of the 2 circuit type)


laracer

Original Poster:

199 posts

166 months

Tuesday 20th August 2019
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Thanks for your investigative work (I missed that Meta thread), much appreciated and a great help - this looks exactly like my circuit board and I think you are spot on with your diagnosis of the partial breakdown and central locking add-on remedy.

I was going through the wiring and testing yesterday and found no obvious problems but the unlocking rate of success started to improve significantly until it know operates successfully every time! - I know of nothing I did to get it working again.

However, when leaving it in the unarmed state, after a few seconds it would suddenly arm itself without me doing or touching anything and the remote button functions would be reversed !! - after this happened about 4 or 5 times it settled down to the correct remote function and now does not arm itself without input from the remote - it's now working as it should :-)

Although everything seems ok now, I am not confident this will remain the case - do you think it will be straight forward to replace the whole system to an integrated immobiliser/central locking unit? (any DIY recommendations)

Here is the wiring diagram of what I found


Belle427

8,864 posts

232 months

Tuesday 20th August 2019
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I removed a foxguard system from a 1995 Chimaera and replaced it with a more modern Toad system.
If your ok with electrics its pretty straightforward, i can send you the wiring colours that were on my car, its probably the same.
Most awkward part is running the cable through the engine bay for the new siren and fitting the bonnet pin switch but not difficult.

laracer

Original Poster:

199 posts

166 months

Tuesday 20th August 2019
quotequote all
Belle427 said:
I removed a foxguard system from a 1995 Chimaera and replaced it with a more modern Toad system.
If your ok with electrics its pretty straightforward, i can send you the wiring colours that were on my car, its probably the same.
Most awkward part is running the cable through the engine bay for the new siren and fitting the bonnet pin switch but not difficult.
Thanks - The wiring colours would be a great help (and save me a lot of time).
Has your Toad system been ok? - which one did you fit?

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

108 months

Tuesday 20th August 2019
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Yes, you will not have any problems in removing what's fitted and replacing it all with a new system

Unfortunately I can't recommend a good system

Going back some years I had the pleasure of being heavily involved with vehicle alarm systems (sarcasm alert) that were all Thatcham approved

The problems I had to sort out for clients did not match up to the great reviews the alarm and immobiliser systems were getting

Apart from on one occasion, I have never wired alarms or immobilisers to any of my vehicles, I had to wire a Thatcham category 1 system to my partners vehicle due to the insurance company insisting on it having one........Guess what happened next?

A few weeks after installing the alarm system and having unbeknown to me (not that it should matter) parked the vehicle close to some transmitter stations powerful antennas, the vehicle bleeped and unlocked the doors then the siren started up.......It never did work correctly after that event

I don't like alarm/immobiliser systems

Perhaps you could start a topic asking for other owners choice of alarm manufacturer, it's all about what alarms are standing up to the test of time

Have fun installing whatever you decide on, most of the wires will be there for your new units to hook up to if you fit them in the same area. Use good terminals, solder and heat-shrink

Belle427

8,864 posts

232 months

Tuesday 20th August 2019
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laracer said:
Belle427 said:
I removed a foxguard system from a 1995 Chimaera and replaced it with a more modern Toad system.
If your ok with electrics its pretty straightforward, i can send you the wiring colours that were on my car, its probably the same.
Most awkward part is running the cable through the engine bay for the new siren and fitting the bonnet pin switch but not difficult.
Thanks - The wiring colours would be a great help (and save me a lot of time).
Has your Toad system been ok? - which one did you fit?
Fitted this model, toad are very reliable systems.The beauty of installing it yourself is you know it inside out should you ever get issues and need to bypass it.
Will open your boot too if you add a relay under the dash which again is fairly easy, the alarm uses a negative pulse for this.
I will pm you the wiring colours.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOAD-Ai606-THATCHAM-CAT...

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

108 months

Tuesday 20th August 2019
quotequote all
Belle427 said:
Fitted this model, toad are very reliable systems.The beauty of installing it yourself is you know it inside out should you ever get issues and need to bypass it.
Will open your boot too if you add a relay under the dash which again is fairly easy, the alarm uses a negative pulse for this.
I will pm you the wiring colours.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOAD-Ai606-THATCHAM-CAT...
Am I missing something here?

That Toad alarm that you have linked to includes ultrasonic sensors that are prone to causing false alarms

Surely anyone wiring in a new alarm system to a Chimaera would be fitting a proven good quality volumetric sensor under the centre console

Edit to add....

I notice the linked to Toad alarm does have a programmable output viewed @ cable Blue/Black #6 and a phone call to the manufacturer should verify that this output will drive a volumetric sensor

Seen here http://dub-se7en.toyotagtturbo.com/useful_info/OTH...




Edited by Penelope Stopit on Tuesday 20th August 10:32

Belle427

8,864 posts

232 months

Tuesday 20th August 2019
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You dont use them, alarm works fine without.
Microwave option can be added but i didnt bother.

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

108 months

Tuesday 20th August 2019
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Belle427 said:
You dont use them, alarm works fine without.
Microwave option can be added but i didnt bother.
I'll correct this for you.....You didn't use them. You did a good job in not using them yet haven't used another form of interior protection

In which case your car is not fully alarmed

Why would anyone wish to spend good money on an alarm yet not alarm the vehicle correctly?

Loubaruch

1,164 posts

197 months

Tuesday 20th August 2019
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Like Belle247 I also fitted a Toad (Sterling One) alarm/Immobiliser to replace the original Meta that in my case was failing to operate the door locking reliably.

The Toad does require the external door lock relay module but I believe TVR Parts stock these.

The Toad is superior in several aspects to the factory fitted Meta system:

The relays that provide immobilisation are heavy duty items as opposed to the light duty items in the Meta.

By adding an additional relay remote boot lid switching was achieved

It was significantly less expensive than the current Meta replacement

I also omitted the internal alarm function as in an open car it can be far more trouble than its worth

By omitting the internal alarm function the alarm category I believe is downgraded from Thatcham 1 to 2.

The system was fitted 2 years ago and has been fault free.