Jobs, Progress and Questions!
Discussion
ianwayne said:
Looks like you have the edge trim missing off the mesh grill too. You can see it on the right hand side of this photo (not my car, I did a google search!!). Not critical but covers the sharp edge:
Is that windscreen wiper cover something that you have made or brought? looks much tidier ianwayne said:
Looks like you have the edge trim missing off the mesh grill too. You can see it on the right hand side of this photo (not my car, I did a google search!!). Not critical but covers the sharp edge:
Thank you, I hadn't noticed that at all. I can only imagine my engine bay looking that tidy.Any idea on where to get the trim?
Jon Brown said:
Is that windscreen wiper cover something that you have made or brought? looks much tidier
I repeat, that's not mine! Tried to reply an hour ago but got the "500" error a few times, forum playing up.I noticed because on my last car, it was hanging off. It's only basic plastic trim, it didn't even 'clip' on, I had to secure it with silicone sealant, so anything approximate off ebay would do you.
New bolt (90mm) arrived yesterday and in an unexpected moment of quiet, fitted it. Now the coil doesn’t flop about, but I made sure not to tighten it too far, mainly just enough to secure the coil bracket.
Simple things make stuff just feel better. I’ll replace the other bolts with nice shiny ones after I have the Plenum off.
Simple things make stuff just feel better. I’ll replace the other bolts with nice shiny ones after I have the Plenum off.
Starting to think I got a pup.
Took it out for a run tonight to drop something off for the wife (a common theme) and as the car warmed up, the hesitation/shunting got worse, until eventually the car cut out and won’t start. The rev counter needle was going crackers as well.
Of course I didn’t have the laptop plugged into it to log it.
Currently waiting for the AA again.
Not the fuel pump itself this time, it primes etc.
Could the replacement coil/ignition amp be causing this? I know it could be a air leak in the Plenum as well so will need to take that off when home.
This is not endearing the car to the wife!
Took it out for a run tonight to drop something off for the wife (a common theme) and as the car warmed up, the hesitation/shunting got worse, until eventually the car cut out and won’t start. The rev counter needle was going crackers as well.
Of course I didn’t have the laptop plugged into it to log it.
Currently waiting for the AA again.
Not the fuel pump itself this time, it primes etc.
Could the replacement coil/ignition amp be causing this? I know it could be a air leak in the Plenum as well so will need to take that off when home.
This is not endearing the car to the wife!
Right, am home. After a while the car started up once she had cooled and I got home. I did notice that now if going to 2k rpm or above, the Rev counter starts jumping and if you keep going, shunting starts.
Am going to check all the plugs (I have replacements to fit so will do that at the same time) and will check the Plenum and AFM. Anything else?
Will plug the laptop in and read the error codes, reset the ECU and give it a run and let it warm up and see what we get as well.
Am going to check all the plugs (I have replacements to fit so will do that at the same time) and will check the Plenum and AFM. Anything else?
Will plug the laptop in and read the error codes, reset the ECU and give it a run and let it warm up and see what we get as well.
Would benefit you to give the ignition system a good overhaul.
Rotor, cap, ditch the extenders and fit some decent leads.
Your coil looks fairly new.
Inexpensive quality leads below that clear the manifolds.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLUE-8MM-PERFORMANCE-IG...
Rotor, cap, ditch the extenders and fit some decent leads.
Your coil looks fairly new.
Inexpensive quality leads below that clear the manifolds.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLUE-8MM-PERFORMANCE-IG...
Thanks, I have new HT leads (that won't be using the extenders) and plugs to go in, but hadn't thought about touching the dizzy. Will add that to the list.
As it happens, for now, the shunting issue seems solved. I put the new amp on, made sure it had a liberal amount of thermal paste applied and took it out for a drive (with the laptop connected and logging this time, plus all the power settings sorted so it wouldn't sleep on me). Gave it a good 30 minute run, and seems fine, some town driving and higher speed NSL roads, no shunting and drove very well (with a possible hesitation at around 3500-4000 RPM, but it was so slight and happened maybe once or twice I wasn't entirely sure it really happened). I didn't go far, just in case I had to nurse it home.
The jumping rev counter is still present when changing gear (usually up I found), but that doesn't show in the log, so is something else.
Unfortunately, as with everything, one step forward, two steps back. I actually looked at the fault codes this time, and the only ones present were for both Lambda sensors. Since I didn't know how old they were, I cleared them and set off for the drive. The long term fuel trim last time I had the laptop connected seemed high, so I wanted to watch it. 0 for both, the entire drive. Hmm. Short term also didnt move. And yes, the codes are back. Interesting, since the first time I logged it, I was definitely getting info from the lambda's. So that is the next thing to look into, although I wonder if I caused this with the drive last night?
Log - https://www.dropbox.com/s/l68e4w9nd9hki2u/2019-08-...
In any case, once time permits, will stick a multimeter on the lambda's and connections etc, to see where the issue might be.
As it happens, for now, the shunting issue seems solved. I put the new amp on, made sure it had a liberal amount of thermal paste applied and took it out for a drive (with the laptop connected and logging this time, plus all the power settings sorted so it wouldn't sleep on me). Gave it a good 30 minute run, and seems fine, some town driving and higher speed NSL roads, no shunting and drove very well (with a possible hesitation at around 3500-4000 RPM, but it was so slight and happened maybe once or twice I wasn't entirely sure it really happened). I didn't go far, just in case I had to nurse it home.
The jumping rev counter is still present when changing gear (usually up I found), but that doesn't show in the log, so is something else.
Unfortunately, as with everything, one step forward, two steps back. I actually looked at the fault codes this time, and the only ones present were for both Lambda sensors. Since I didn't know how old they were, I cleared them and set off for the drive. The long term fuel trim last time I had the laptop connected seemed high, so I wanted to watch it. 0 for both, the entire drive. Hmm. Short term also didnt move. And yes, the codes are back. Interesting, since the first time I logged it, I was definitely getting info from the lambda's. So that is the next thing to look into, although I wonder if I caused this with the drive last night?
Log - https://www.dropbox.com/s/l68e4w9nd9hki2u/2019-08-...
In any case, once time permits, will stick a multimeter on the lambda's and connections etc, to see where the issue might be.
Edited by Monsterlime on Tuesday 27th August 12:06
Thats interesting, there is a what I presume to be a ground wire attaching directly to the amp bracket (just attached to a screw on the bracket and goes into the connector between the amp and the coil), but is there a better solution, ie should I run one to the chassis ground? When I'm testing the lambda's, I'll test the ground on that as well.
Jon Brown said:
ianwayne said:
Is that windscreen wiper cover something that you have made or brought? looks much tidier That's where mine is on a 99 car but my 95 was mounted on the inner wing in front of the windscreen as all earlier cars.
ianwayne said:
I was aware of that, I just used a random picture to show an engine bay with the trim on the front edge of the windscreen wiper mesh grill, it's missing on the OP's car. That never changed, there was no reference to the motor.
Understood. Just made that observation for Jon.I've checked the ground for the ignition amp, seems fine, very low resistance. I suspect I damaged the previous one when the bolt was loose, oops.
I am waiting on a dizzy cap and rotor arm, and when they show up, I'll replace the plugs, leads, cap and arm all together. I did notice the king lead was not on fully on the dizzy cap so made sure that was snug. I also cleaned up a few connectors (although I will get some connector cleaner to do some of the harder to access ones).
While messing about with the wiring, I found some items that raised more questions!
What are these connectors doing? Is this normal or should I unpick this and simplify it?
What is this? I could not find anything that it would plug into, which seems odd/worrying.
I am waiting on a dizzy cap and rotor arm, and when they show up, I'll replace the plugs, leads, cap and arm all together. I did notice the king lead was not on fully on the dizzy cap so made sure that was snug. I also cleaned up a few connectors (although I will get some connector cleaner to do some of the harder to access ones).
While messing about with the wiring, I found some items that raised more questions!
What are these connectors doing? Is this normal or should I unpick this and simplify it?
What is this? I could not find anything that it would plug into, which seems odd/worrying.
First picture is a pair of resistors. one is in the line to the tacho the other is in the line to the ECU. Both are there to protect from spikes in the voltage.
The second pic is the same style connector used for Lambda sensors but I believe in this case it is a redundant connection for aircon compressor.
Steve
The second pic is the same style connector used for Lambda sensors but I believe in this case it is a redundant connection for aircon compressor.
Steve
Steve_D said:
First picture is a pair of resistors. one is in the line to the tacho the other is in the line to the ECU. Both are there to protect from spikes in the voltage.
The second pic is the same style connector used for Lambda sensors but I believe in this case it is a redundant connection for aircon compressor.
Steve
Thank you! That is helpful, especially re the resistors. Do you know the type/rating of them? Since my rev counter does jump when changing gear, but Rovergauge doesn't show this, I wonder if one resistor is past its best. I can run the multimeter over them, but may just replace them. Next time I am out there I will take a closer look and see if I can get a part number off of them, they do look identical.The second pic is the same style connector used for Lambda sensors but I believe in this case it is a redundant connection for aircon compressor.
Steve
I'll hide the other connector away for now and tape it up.
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