Another body off thread.
Discussion
I’m still in thinking mode over chassis covering, I see what people are saying but I’m also mindful of what the cars really worth. Repainting an already really clean Centre section seems over the top if it’s perfectly intact.
haven’t jet washed it yet as other crash damaged car in the way so both front corners are off.
O/s outrigger has already been fabricated and replaced including new suspension pick up point at front, all tacked into place. Looks great. Rear pick up point ready to be cut off and replaced.
It’s moving along at pace, 3 of us on it today measuring the hell out of everything, luckily two know what their doing
Rear end corners strip down tomorrow ( makes it easier lining up bottom wishbone bolt) with weight off it.
If things go well tomorrow all wishbones and sundries will be off for powdercoat next week sometime.
Forgot pics, tomorrow if I can compress the bloody things.
haven’t jet washed it yet as other crash damaged car in the way so both front corners are off.
O/s outrigger has already been fabricated and replaced including new suspension pick up point at front, all tacked into place. Looks great. Rear pick up point ready to be cut off and replaced.
It’s moving along at pace, 3 of us on it today measuring the hell out of everything, luckily two know what their doing
Rear end corners strip down tomorrow ( makes it easier lining up bottom wishbone bolt) with weight off it.
If things go well tomorrow all wishbones and sundries will be off for powdercoat next week sometime.
Forgot pics, tomorrow if I can compress the bloody things.
phazed said:
Installing, thanks Peter, dunno where I’d be without you 
Let’s see if I can work the darn stuff, bloody palava. I’m allergic to computers
I've got in the habit, when taking photos intended to be on here, of taking them from further back than necessary. Chopping the photo down on my laptop reduces the data size. Also, for some reason, if I open a jpg photo in Paint 3D, take a sliver off it and then save it again, the file size reduces massively.
Not sure this will all work with iPad software but there is likely similar?
Not sure this will all work with iPad software but there is likely similar?
V8fan said:
I've got in the habit, when taking photos intended to be on here, of taking them from further back than necessary. Chopping the photo down on my laptop reduces the data size. Also, for some reason, if I open a jpg photo in Paint 3D, take a sliver off it and then save it again, the file size reduces massively.
Not sure this will all work with iPad software but there is likely similar?
I've dropped the image size on my camera and my phone to 2mP and still can't upload - says no image found.Not sure this will all work with iPad software but there is likely similar?
I think everyone who can't upload should start a new thread on that subject then the admin may look at the problem
I’ve tried cropping mine but still no joy.
In today’s environment with camera using high res etc this limit is a hinderance to say the least.
They load on other platforms easy enough.
I remember a thread talking about this a few years ago and reading Heymarket were not going to invest any money updating this platform.
Other media are ok but historically this platform offers the best advice and past threads used to be easy to find.
Sad really as it will be a huge loss to Tvr owners if it dies away.
In today’s environment with camera using high res etc this limit is a hinderance to say the least.
They load on other platforms easy enough.
I remember a thread talking about this a few years ago and reading Heymarket were not going to invest any money updating this platform.
Other media are ok but historically this platform offers the best advice and past threads used to be easy to find.
Sad really as it will be a huge loss to Tvr owners if it dies away.
Hi Alun,
With the maximum size issue eliminated (the max file upload size is 2MB), the next thing to do is check the image file type you are trying to upload.
For Thumbsnap to work the file type must be JPEG also known as JPG, check to make sure your you images end in .jpg
When you go to select the image you want to upload, hover over it with your mouse and it'll tell you the file type, in this example its the correct Jpg type you want.
As you can see hovering over the image not only tells you the file type but the image size too, in this case we can see its a jpg file and is only 242 KB in size so this image will upload just fine.
Other common image file types to look out for that simply won't work with Thumbsnap are....
Dave.
With the maximum size issue eliminated (the max file upload size is 2MB), the next thing to do is check the image file type you are trying to upload.
For Thumbsnap to work the file type must be JPEG also known as JPG, check to make sure your you images end in .jpg
When you go to select the image you want to upload, hover over it with your mouse and it'll tell you the file type, in this example its the correct Jpg type you want.
As you can see hovering over the image not only tells you the file type but the image size too, in this case we can see its a jpg file and is only 242 KB in size so this image will upload just fine.
Other common image file types to look out for that simply won't work with Thumbsnap are....
- PNG, file types ending in .png. ...
- TIFF (also known as TIF), file types ending in .tif. ...
- GIF, file types ending in .gif. ...
- Raw image files (unlikely)
Dave.
Classic Chim said:
I’ve tried cropping mine but still no joy.
In today’s environment with camera using high res etc this limit is a hinderance to say the least.
They load on other platforms easy enough.
I remember a thread talking about this a few years ago and reading Heymarket were not going to invest any money updating this platform.
Other media are ok but historically this platform offers the best advice and past threads used to be easy to find.
Sad really as it will be a huge loss to Tvr owners if it dies away.
Alan, if you are using an iPad, down load the app ‘compress photos’In today’s environment with camera using high res etc this limit is a hinderance to say the least.
They load on other platforms easy enough.
I remember a thread talking about this a few years ago and reading Heymarket were not going to invest any money updating this platform.
Other media are ok but historically this platform offers the best advice and past threads used to be easy to find.
Sad really as it will be a huge loss to Tvr owners if it dies away.
Any advice on how you disconnect handbrake cable from rear callipers would be appreciated.
Never touched them before so I’m a newby on this too.
I can’t work out how you take each end off the arm it’s hooked over.
I’ve searched for threads but not come up with anything that details this part yet. N/S rear calliper is off the car bar cable as is rear hub, drive shaft, shock absorber and top wishbone.
Bottom wishbone left in place for lining up purposes.
O/S bolts all loosened so a bit more work tomorrow evening should see both rear corners disassembled. Slowly taking it apart.
Never touched them before so I’m a newby on this too.
I can’t work out how you take each end off the arm it’s hooked over.
I’ve searched for threads but not come up with anything that details this part yet. N/S rear calliper is off the car bar cable as is rear hub, drive shaft, shock absorber and top wishbone.
Bottom wishbone left in place for lining up purposes.
O/S bolts all loosened so a bit more work tomorrow evening should see both rear corners disassembled. Slowly taking it apart.
Classic Chim said:
Any advice on how you disconnect handbrake cable from rear callipers would be appreciated.
Never touched them before so I’m a newby on this too.
I can’t work out how you take each end off the arm it’s hooked over.
I’ve searched for threads but not come up with anything that details this part yet. N/S rear calliper is off the car bar cable as is rear hub, drive shaft, shock absorber and top wishbone.
Bottom wishbone left in place for lining up purposes.
O/S bolts all loosened so a bit more work tomorrow evening should see both rear corners disassembled. Slowly taking it apart.
I didn't take and pics, but from memory the cable simply hooks on to the handbrake mechanism. Never touched them before so I’m a newby on this too.
I can’t work out how you take each end off the arm it’s hooked over.
I’ve searched for threads but not come up with anything that details this part yet. N/S rear calliper is off the car bar cable as is rear hub, drive shaft, shock absorber and top wishbone.
Bottom wishbone left in place for lining up purposes.
O/S bolts all loosened so a bit more work tomorrow evening should see both rear corners disassembled. Slowly taking it apart.
I've only had to re-connect mine, not dismantle, but gotta be just opposite.
I think I used pliers to grip the hook on the cable.
You've also got the tensioning wheel on the central chassis you can slacken off.
motul1974 said:
I didn't take and pics, but from memory the cable simply hooks on to the handbrake mechanism.
I've only had to re-connect mine, not dismantle, but gotta be just opposite.
I think I used pliers to grip the hook on the cable.
You've also got the tensioning wheel on the central chassis you can slacken off.
Thanks, I’ll slacken it off a bit more. I've only had to re-connect mine, not dismantle, but gotta be just opposite.
I think I used pliers to grip the hook on the cable.
You've also got the tensioning wheel on the central chassis you can slacken off.
Fiddly business
Once it’s off the hook do I just prise out the plastic sections that trap it to calliper,, I forgot to take pictures too, busy.
Rear end is all original and never been apart I believe so it’s rusty bolt city. But loads of penetrating oil every time I go round it has helped today.
Next up will be rear hub assembly and how I take it apart?
How does drive shaft detach from hub. 6 Allen head bolts hold CV to hub from rear. I’ve removed hub and shaft as one piece from the Dif.
I’m hoping I don’t have to disturb wheel bearings ( new about 5 years ago ) less it was after my French trip
Sadly many old threads no longer show photos which is a real shame although I have not looked at hub threads yet. More homework
Edited by Classic Chim on Sunday 15th December 20:37
Unbolt the shafts from the upright/hub and slide out.
If your taking the hubs out of the uprights theres a one a left handed thread and other a right (that blood great nut)
The hub assembly to the upright are attached hex bolts. You may need to cut an Allen key down to get one of them out.
If your taking the hubs out of the uprights theres a one a left handed thread and other a right (that blood great nut)
The hub assembly to the upright are attached hex bolts. You may need to cut an Allen key down to get one of them out.
motul1974 said:
Unbolt the shafts from the upright/hub and slide out.
If your taking the hubs out of the uprights theres a one a left handed thread and other a right (that blood great nut)
The hub assembly to the upright are attached hex bolts. You may need to cut an Allen key down to get one of them out.
I’ve unbolted 6 in total the shaft from upright/hub but it seems stuck, I assumed it should just slide out but seems very firm, so left it. I’ll tap around it and pull harder. If your taking the hubs out of the uprights theres a one a left handed thread and other a right (that blood great nut)
The hub assembly to the upright are attached hex bolts. You may need to cut an Allen key down to get one of them out.
Thanks for the info very useful,,
Oh my hub face the road wheel bolts to has a hole in it, just large enough to put a socket Allen head through so just make sure it’s in neutral so you can spin it to each position. I’ve loosened those 4 hub/ upright bolts.
My car is almost 20 years old.
I’d say the riggers have been on there way out from as little as 5 years old based on the levels of rot. Other than the front o/s corner most of it does grind back to real steel but very thin.
Then you have the top side of the chassis which looks like new overall. Very odd.
It’s impossible to say as each car lives a different life.
Anything living up north or near a sea is going to be prone,,, so that’s all of us then
The bottom picture of the mid section which looks and is well rotten, even that grinded back to steal so although well shot still actually intact if only about 1 mm thick.
I’d say the riggers have been on there way out from as little as 5 years old based on the levels of rot. Other than the front o/s corner most of it does grind back to real steel but very thin.
Then you have the top side of the chassis which looks like new overall. Very odd.
It’s impossible to say as each car lives a different life.
Anything living up north or near a sea is going to be prone,,, so that’s all of us then
The bottom picture of the mid section which looks and is well rotten, even that grinded back to steal so although well shot still actually intact if only about 1 mm thick.
Edited by Classic Chim on Monday 16th December 13:06
Only 6 TVR posts on the forum yesterday.
Are you the only one working on your car Alun?
Has Facebook taken over the world?
There is little hope for us . I dislike Americans nearly as much as I hate cyclists.
I know I am a bit of a hypocrite as I'm using their technology right now but even so..............
Are you the only one working on your car Alun?
Has Facebook taken over the world?
There is little hope for us . I dislike Americans nearly as much as I hate cyclists.
I know I am a bit of a hypocrite as I'm using their technology right now but even so..............
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