Another body off thread.
Discussion
With reference to the above few posts, what would be the best way to proceed with brand new wishbones?
i) Fit and wait to see what happens.
ii) Overcoat with a sprayed epoxy paint (such as many now prefer over powdercoat for chassis painting) before fitting.
iii) Overcoat with a brush on epoxy mastic (such as has been recently recommended for chassis) before fitting.
iv) Blast to remove powdercoat, hot zinc and then either ii) or iii) above.
v) Other.
All.opinions welcome.
i) Fit and wait to see what happens.
ii) Overcoat with a sprayed epoxy paint (such as many now prefer over powdercoat for chassis painting) before fitting.
iii) Overcoat with a brush on epoxy mastic (such as has been recently recommended for chassis) before fitting.
iv) Blast to remove powdercoat, hot zinc and then either ii) or iii) above.
v) Other.
All.opinions welcome.
iv then ii.
Hot zinc works really well. Spray painting down into the cavities of the wishbone is very difficult because the air from the spray blows back out bringing the paint back out with it and blocks new paint going in.
You could brush down inside first then when dry spray.
Or just brush paint all over if your not too fussed about brush strokes nobody will see.
Steve
Hot zinc works really well. Spray painting down into the cavities of the wishbone is very difficult because the air from the spray blows back out bringing the paint back out with it and blocks new paint going in.
You could brush down inside first then when dry spray.
Or just brush paint all over if your not too fussed about brush strokes nobody will see.
Steve
I love studying pictures like these lol.
I’ve just been calculating the cost of this body offf calling in every favour I could, scraping the barrel for funds and paying for pro’s where I could.
Including my labour which is probably double the time it takes an experienced chap but basically it’s cost 3 k to do the job including garage rental etc and about 3k labour if I was paying myself so in total about 6 k. That’s very interesting as I don’t think that’s far off a pro’s quote to do such a large amount of work.
My labour is free so to get this down to about 2.5 k for most of the work is very pleasing. Oils and fluids and gaskets and brake lines and cables, track rod gators to a million new cable ties to gasket sealer to feck knows what yet but that lot gets on for 500 quid anyday but I consider those service items which I’d be doing at some time anyway.
So 2.5 k seems a bargain now it’s starting to take shape.
Considering I’ve never done this before although I’ve worked on most of the car in the past it’s been a steep learning curve which has totally removed a lot of myth I had over these chassis and body lift operations.
Steve sharing how to use a two post lift and axle stands to separate body from chassis must be the best tip I’ve had in years and removed a huge amount of stress. Any advice we recieve as laymen goes a long way to helping someone like me succeed so I can only offer my humblest thanks for all our Tvr friends.
As I’m now nearing the time I can go back and finish my car off I’ve slowly been buying the necessary stuff to recommission the car.
So far my plan was to lift body/ repair riggers, drop body, but decided to do the full job and re coat the complete chassis instead. This then opened me upto all the little things you’d ideally change while you are there sort of thing.
I’ve avoided doing wishbone bushes etc as I think the 4 corners can be worked on at any time in future so ball joints etc are all fairly new but left most of these components for now.
My idea is to restore the chassis and anything else that’s related to it rather than a complete nut and bolt job.
I did that 5 years ago on the front end with new bolt kits etc, most showed more rust than TVR BOLTS 20 years old so where I can I’m reusing things that simply do not require replacement.
Anyway to the present.
I now have oils/ filter incl fuel filter and liquids for all various systems including 2 gallon of de ionised water and 6 litres of antifreeze.
Engine, gearbox, dif, P/S brake / clutch fluid.
I’ve have replaced brake and fuel lines on Chassis.
So once I have finished off some jobs on chassis and body which will mean lifting body off again then get back to where I am now which is the body remounted to chassis and ready to re route wiring plug everything in this is the list I need to complete said task.
If I have missed anything feel free to mention it.
I have heater hose x about 5m ( as I wish to replace it back to heater matrix )
High pressure P/S hose kit
Low pressure P/S hose
R9 Fuel hose for both front and rear end of car and the larger bore hose from tank to Pump. All with new clips.
Brake cable
Steering rack gators
A million cable ties at hand
Exhaust manifold gaskets x4
Blue gasket sealant.
Thermostat and gasket
Including for engine bay heat matting I have 3 tubes of mastic/ silkoflex
Rivets
More locktite.
Chassis bolt kit including seat belt anchor bolts.
Gold insulation tape
I have braided brake lines allround so don’t need those.
Grease for prop shaft etc.
Silicone spray
Is that it!
Thanks for any pointers as I’d like to know I have most things before I hit the garage cheers in advance Alun
So far my plan was to lift body/ repair riggers, drop body, but decided to do the full job and re coat the complete chassis instead. This then opened me upto all the little things you’d ideally change while you are there sort of thing.
I’ve avoided doing wishbone bushes etc as I think the 4 corners can be worked on at any time in future so ball joints etc are all fairly new but left most of these components for now.
My idea is to restore the chassis and anything else that’s related to it rather than a complete nut and bolt job.
I did that 5 years ago on the front end with new bolt kits etc, most showed more rust than TVR BOLTS 20 years old so where I can I’m reusing things that simply do not require replacement.
Anyway to the present.
I now have oils/ filter incl fuel filter and liquids for all various systems including 2 gallon of de ionised water and 6 litres of antifreeze.
Engine, gearbox, dif, P/S brake / clutch fluid.
I’ve have replaced brake and fuel lines on Chassis.
So once I have finished off some jobs on chassis and body which will mean lifting body off again then get back to where I am now which is the body remounted to chassis and ready to re route wiring plug everything in this is the list I need to complete said task.
If I have missed anything feel free to mention it.
I have heater hose x about 5m ( as I wish to replace it back to heater matrix )
High pressure P/S hose kit
Low pressure P/S hose
R9 Fuel hose for both front and rear end of car and the larger bore hose from tank to Pump. All with new clips.
Brake cable
Steering rack gators
A million cable ties at hand
Exhaust manifold gaskets x4
Blue gasket sealant.
Thermostat and gasket
Including for engine bay heat matting I have 3 tubes of mastic/ silkoflex
Rivets
More locktite.
Chassis bolt kit including seat belt anchor bolts.
Gold insulation tape
I have braided brake lines allround so don’t need those.
Grease for prop shaft etc.
Silicone spray
Is that it!
Thanks for any pointers as I’d like to know I have most things before I hit the garage cheers in advance Alun
Edited by Classic Chim on Friday 25th September 16:09
QBee said:
Are you replacing the power steering U bend close to the front nearside of the engine block?
Chimaera parts do a kit that doesn't leak, unlike the standard TVR one that comes with built in leak.
If, being Welsh, you prefer leaks with everything, we will understand.
I prefer leeks. Chimaera parts do a kit that doesn't leak, unlike the standard TVR one that comes with built in leak.
If, being Welsh, you prefer leaks with everything, we will understand.
But mine doesn’t leak?
It might be a good idea to get some new hose for that section though.
Yes agreed but I’m trying not to over spend but yeah you bugger you got me there. Very impressed you remembered that little detail.
Oh hang on that’s the high pressure side isn’t it,, it’s going to be expensive I just know it
QBee said:
If yours doesn't leak, don't change it. Simples.....
I'm sure I've posted this before, but the bloke that runs Chimaera Parts online told me that the hoses used by TVR degrade internally over time and deposit bits of rubber all over the place, but especially in the rack. He advised me to not only change the hoses but to flush the system through with clean fluid at the same time. Which I did. Given the relative scarcity of racks, anything that prolongs their life has to be a good thing in my book.I had a fairly spectacular leak from the U shaped pipework under the pump that was dripping PAS fluid on to the manifold. The Chimaera Parts kit is leak free a couple of years after fitting. And looks far better than the mish mash of manky pipes and jubilee clips that TVR fitted.
Riff Raff said:
I'm sure I've posted this before, but the bloke that runs Chimaera Parts online told me that the hoses used by TVR degrade internally over time and deposit bits of rubber all over the place, but especially in the rack. He advised me to not only change the hoses but to flush the system through with clean fluid at the same time. Which I did. Given the relative scarcity of racks, anything that prolongs their life has to be a good thing in my book.
I had a fairly spectacular leak from the U shaped pipework under the pump that was dripping PAS fluid on to the manifold. The Chimaera Parts kit is leak free a couple of years after fitting. And looks far better than the mish mash of manky pipes and jubilee clips that TVR fitted.
I read that and it swayed it for me. I had a fairly spectacular leak from the U shaped pipework under the pump that was dripping PAS fluid on to the manifold. The Chimaera Parts kit is leak free a couple of years after fitting. And looks far better than the mish mash of manky pipes and jubilee clips that TVR fitted.
Reason being the new low pressure hose I put on only about 5 years ago or so when I removed and tucked it up on body off recently I noticed it had plenty of cracks on the outside. I’ve also noticed on occasion where I’ve done a lot of steering inputs and fluid gets hot it has a tendency to push back and out through the connections at the bottle, not a leak more a wetting over time, if fluid can get out moisture can get in let alone bits of rubber floating about so yes It’s hopefully a solution.
I also noticed how dis coloured the power steering fluid was when it came out, it was only about 8000 miles use at best! It’s another item to change far more regularly than a service schedule might suggest I feel. It gets very hot.
Edited by Classic Chim on Friday 25th September 16:18
Phoning John Zubak (Chimaera Parts) is a real TVR experience - allow at least 90 minutes for the call.
I don't know what it is about TVR people, we all seem to have the same ability to talk for all 27 countries of the European Union on any given subject and whole number that weren't given.
And this only seems to afflict my TVR friends, all others are utter trappists.
No names, no pack drill......but you know who you are and I treasure you all.
Same applies to our TVR experts.....they can talk for Europe too.
I don't know what it is about TVR people, we all seem to have the same ability to talk for all 27 countries of the European Union on any given subject and whole number that weren't given.
And this only seems to afflict my TVR friends, all others are utter trappists.
No names, no pack drill......but you know who you are and I treasure you all.
Same applies to our TVR experts.....they can talk for Europe too.
Classic Chim said:
I prefer leeks.
But mine doesn’t leak?
It might be a good idea to get some new hose for that section though.
Yes agreed but I’m trying not to over spend but yeah you bugger you got me there. Very impressed you remembered that little detail.
Oh hang on that’s the high pressure side isn’t it,, it’s going to be expensive I just know it
Leaking is a matter of time or maybe you've already run out of steering oil... I ordered the PAS kit from John @ Chimaera Parts Online last Sunday. Delivered today (in the Netherlands mind you!). Excellent piece of kit too.But mine doesn’t leak?
It might be a good idea to get some new hose for that section though.
Yes agreed but I’m trying not to over spend but yeah you bugger you got me there. Very impressed you remembered that little detail.
Oh hang on that’s the high pressure side isn’t it,, it’s going to be expensive I just know it
I think from my own experience I will not fill bottle quite so much. It does get very hot and expands I assume so I’ve had mine almost over flowing the cap in the past though it’s only full to the marks when cold.
I’m actually thinking it would be a good idea to have the fill bottle positioned on the inner wing rather than on top and centre of a very hot engine?
Maybe even an aluminium one polished up
I’m actually thinking it would be a good idea to have the fill bottle positioned on the inner wing rather than on top and centre of a very hot engine?
Maybe even an aluminium one polished up
Steve_D said:
What brand of fuel hose have you bought?
Steve
Codan SAE J30 R9 FKM-NBR- CPE fuel hose 12.7 mm Steve
Codan SAE J30 R9 FKM-NBR-CSM Fuel hose 7.9 mm
I have another length of R9 already at the car for front end but can’t remember the brand off hand.
Andy Matthews sent it me ages ago so it should be good stuff. The plan is to route my longer fuel lines so I have very little of the hose in engine Bay Area
Edited by Classic Chim on Friday 25th September 22:08
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