Sc-Power Supercharger kit
Discussion
https://www.sc-power.co.uk/pages/sc-power-supercha...
I am wondering if this kit was still available.
Anyone approached them recently?
They also seem to be shy to mention prices on their website, does anyone know their current prices?
I have a spot spot for superchargers and I am weighing all the options for power increase on my stock 4.0.
The Powers kit looks neat and gibes opportinity to do it in stages.
Can somebody with first hand experience tell me about how useable this kit is in the very basic configuration like no IC / chipped 14CUX / the smaller Rotrex unit?
Thanks
G
I am wondering if this kit was still available.
Anyone approached them recently?
They also seem to be shy to mention prices on their website, does anyone know their current prices?
I have a spot spot for superchargers and I am weighing all the options for power increase on my stock 4.0.
The Powers kit looks neat and gibes opportinity to do it in stages.
Can somebody with first hand experience tell me about how useable this kit is in the very basic configuration like no IC / chipped 14CUX / the smaller Rotrex unit?
Thanks
G
I enquired about 18 months ago and it was around £4500 for the kit, cant quite remember if this was with the intercooler setup.
May seem a lot but if you start to get heads, cam inlet etc you won’t be far away from it by the time you have finished.
There were mixed opinions on how good it was with the standard 14cux system when I researched it so just be aware of this.
May seem a lot but if you start to get heads, cam inlet etc you won’t be far away from it by the time you have finished.
There were mixed opinions on how good it was with the standard 14cux system when I researched it so just be aware of this.
Firstly there I no way I’d run the basic kit without an intercooler, it’s been done and someone paid the price of an engine rebuild despite being told not to do so. Yes It run on 14cux but to be honest I wouldn’t bother as it’s a compromise as you can only adjust fueling. The kit is ok and money is in the mounting bracket that no one else does. Good luck on trying to get hold of them as can seem a bit elusive
OK, explain me please. It’s a lowish compression engine and the basic kit makes 4-5psi. Ignition advance can be altered somehow on the dizzy, right? Why is it a big risk to run it without further knock prevention/protection? The fuelling if set correctly also can help in preventing knock. I mean che chip can be done the way it keeps fuelling on the rich side in the most dangerous rpm range.
Supercharged5 said:
By the way Belle247, what’s happened to your car? Did it survive the crash? Your engine spec is about the top spec I can aim and your words made me thinking of not spending thousands on NA tuning but going SC.
It got written off due to repair costs involved, even though it wasn’t bad it was estimated at £5000 by the time it had had paint etc and it would have been categorised too.I fitted a couple of these superchargers many moons ago. Fabbed up the mounting brackets and fed pressure straight into a holley carb. For 5 psi boost there's little point in an intercooler. I added a really simple water injection system.
I like simple projects, there's no need to make it difficult.
I like simple projects, there's no need to make it difficult.
Boosted LS1 said:
I fitted a couple of these superchargers many moons ago. Fabbed up the mounting brackets and fed pressure straight into a holley carb. For 5 psi boost there's little point in an intercooler. I added a really simple water injection system.
I like simple projects, there's no need to make it difficult.
Yes, I was also thinking of Wi if it is absolutely necessary to have some form of knock prevention.I like simple projects, there's no need to make it difficult.
Supercharged5 said:
Belle427 said:
It got written off due to repair costs involved, even though it wasn’t bad it was estimated at £5000 by the time it had had paint etc and it would have been categorised too.
What happened to the engine? did you sell it? No more likely then the IC springing a leak and it's a restriction to flow. The WI isn't needed for low boost but it's nice to feel it kick in. A nice short pipe run from the charger to the intake works well. I used a cheap 12v pump (boost referenced), an ignition fed selonoid to arm it and an adjustable pressure switch. The water was fed through a .8 welding tip into the compressors. This was back in the stone age days when life was simple.
When water was sprayed the engine went very smooth and quiet. Oh, did I say fast? :-)
When water was sprayed the engine went very smooth and quiet. Oh, did I say fast? :-)
I saw 100+C intake temp on my SC’d Mx5 wwithout IC and constant 30-40C after IC install. The car was running on Megasquirt with knock detection so I could see the difference in maximum timing advance we could apply without and with IC. Also virtual dyno gave some kind of idea of what amount of hp was robved by high IATs and pulled back timing. But that’s a higher comp engine and it was on 8-9psi boost.
The Chimaera is different. I’d never put miles long IC tubes in it’s engine bay, it is just nor right for me. The ICless sc install is compact and somehow elegant what suits to the car. Even at 212 hp the car gives the illusion of effortless performance. It’s all anout that big lump amd the way it does it’s job and the way it looks.
The sound of a blow off valve or a sreaming roots supercharger or the looks of the engine bay with a mix of miles long tubes and blue silicone joiners is something that doesn’t suit to the spirit of the car. Just my feeling, I don’t mean to effend anybody:-)
I know, melted pistons are also mot very elegant but still, I prefer the neat look of the non IC SC install.
The Chimaera is different. I’d never put miles long IC tubes in it’s engine bay, it is just nor right for me. The ICless sc install is compact and somehow elegant what suits to the car. Even at 212 hp the car gives the illusion of effortless performance. It’s all anout that big lump amd the way it does it’s job and the way it looks.
The sound of a blow off valve or a sreaming roots supercharger or the looks of the engine bay with a mix of miles long tubes and blue silicone joiners is something that doesn’t suit to the spirit of the car. Just my feeling, I don’t mean to effend anybody:-)
I know, melted pistons are also mot very elegant but still, I prefer the neat look of the non IC SC install.
The problem with the cost of all forced induction is, as Hoofa says, that you need a better ECU, and that means adding around £2000-2500 to the bill, as it will also need a new loom, replacing the distributor with coil packs and someone who knows what he is doing to set it up.
The turbo alternative (keep it low pressure to avoid having to rebuild the engine as well) also requires a new ECU and a new Y piece for the exhaust.
At the end of the day you will be spending between £6,000 and £10,000 fully installed by an expert.
The turbo alternative (keep it low pressure to avoid having to rebuild the engine as well) also requires a new ECU and a new Y piece for the exhaust.
At the end of the day you will be spending between £6,000 and £10,000 fully installed by an expert.
Agreed that it's costly especially once you add in the ecu, mapping and harness etc. I remember the days when rovers could run boost with just a Mallory dizzy and a change of advance curve :-) Some landrover distributers had a vac retard canister on them.
Once I went to efi I built a pair of copper charge coolers into a modified plenum. hey slid in from the front and were removable. Water to water is meant to be 7 times more efficient then air to air. They worked well enough and it meant I didn't have large bore pipe runs around the engine bay. I had a heat exchanger mounted under a boot spoiler. An exchanger could be easily mounted up front because the coolant pipes on mine were 13 mm o/d. I wont't use the charge coolers again. To big, costly and cumbersome. You never stay on boost for very long with a Rover engine.
Looking back, once swopping to efi everything just kept getting more costly and challenging.
I may still have a Rotrex front mounting plate somewhere. I had several laser cut.
Once I went to efi I built a pair of copper charge coolers into a modified plenum. hey slid in from the front and were removable. Water to water is meant to be 7 times more efficient then air to air. They worked well enough and it meant I didn't have large bore pipe runs around the engine bay. I had a heat exchanger mounted under a boot spoiler. An exchanger could be easily mounted up front because the coolant pipes on mine were 13 mm o/d. I wont't use the charge coolers again. To big, costly and cumbersome. You never stay on boost for very long with a Rover engine.
Looking back, once swopping to efi everything just kept getting more costly and challenging.
I may still have a Rotrex front mounting plate somewhere. I had several laser cut.
QBee said:
The problem with the cost of all forced induction is, as Hoofa says, that you need a better ECU, and that means adding around £2000-2500 to the bill, as it will also need a new loom, replacing the distributor with coil packs and someone who knows what he is doing to set it up.
The turbo alternative (keep it low pressure to avoid having to rebuild the engine as well) also requires a new ECU and a new Y piece for the exhaust.
At the end of the day you will be spending between £6,000 and £10,000 fully installed by an expert.
And you wouldn’t really want to add to much power if your on a worn engine with worn big end bearings without first checking crank. Re shelling is possible but it all starts to get out of hand if you want the reliability built in. The turbo alternative (keep it low pressure to avoid having to rebuild the engine as well) also requires a new ECU and a new Y piece for the exhaust.
At the end of the day you will be spending between £6,000 and £10,000 fully installed by an expert.
If you have the budget, top engine, new ECU and charger/ turbo your into a major bit of kit, new brakes etc,,,
You only get what you pay for so my view is if your happy to do it right and pay the bill accordingly anythings possible.
5psi,,, I’d forget it and rebuild a brilliant N/A engine and have just as much usable power on tap with all the character of a V8 sucking air in. Induction roar matters
Well said that man. You drum it into us (see what I did there?).
I went low pressure turbo when I broke my 5 litre engine, as I wanted more power, without going for an LS3, which would have been over £20k installed (don't argue, I still have the quote somewhere).
As I didn't have a working engine, I took to Ebay and bought the second hand bits to make a low compression standard 4.6, and then sent it off to have the turbo and intercooler installed, followed by an Emerald ECU. I kept the power under 400 bhp to avoid having to strengthen all the engine internals, and am happy with the result, but it's no rocket ship and probably no better than a well-sorted 320-350 BHP N/A engine. We had a few tribulations along the way, and the cooling took Mat Smith a while to sort out (he did a great job, it was just tricky), but the end result is what I wanted, but cost a fair bit more than I expected.
Getting more power follows the law of diminishing returns where money is concerned.
So if you are happy with your standard car, don't go there would be my advice.
Take a family holiday or 4, when rules allow. Or buy that decent bike you've always fancied.
I went low pressure turbo when I broke my 5 litre engine, as I wanted more power, without going for an LS3, which would have been over £20k installed (don't argue, I still have the quote somewhere).
As I didn't have a working engine, I took to Ebay and bought the second hand bits to make a low compression standard 4.6, and then sent it off to have the turbo and intercooler installed, followed by an Emerald ECU. I kept the power under 400 bhp to avoid having to strengthen all the engine internals, and am happy with the result, but it's no rocket ship and probably no better than a well-sorted 320-350 BHP N/A engine. We had a few tribulations along the way, and the cooling took Mat Smith a while to sort out (he did a great job, it was just tricky), but the end result is what I wanted, but cost a fair bit more than I expected.
Getting more power follows the law of diminishing returns where money is concerned.
So if you are happy with your standard car, don't go there would be my advice.
Take a family holiday or 4, when rules allow. Or buy that decent bike you've always fancied.
....I am going arround in circles.....it’s always the same.
Thank you guys for the comments, I forget Fi than.
The thing is I can’t spend on smaller things until the engine/power thing is sorted. I feel like I spend from the same pocket on not important things while the engine remains untouched and every time I drive the car I dream about more power.
The engine is healthy what makes it even worse as I have no excuse to spend money on it. I’ve bought an MC1 cam kit because I think it is time for a new cam at 76k miles and the dyno result of 212hp confirmed my theory.
Today I looked into V8D engine packages and there are some good deals but some things are not clear.
A 4.6 long block with phantom head, good cam is about 4k
I want to keep the 4 litre capacity because of legal restrictions (I live in Hungary) so I’d go for a V8D built long block with stage 3(?) head and an MC1 or Stealth cam. It can be bigger cc but it must be built arround the 4.0 TVR block.
Can it be done under 4k?
I don’t know how should I calculate the value of my engine? Once the MC1 cam will be swapped in it will produce healthy hp. I am not sure it would be sensible to use this engine as a basis for a V8D build, they sell reconed 4.0 short block for 1.3k, it would be more sensible to have the build made on that basis.
Thank you guys for the comments, I forget Fi than.
The thing is I can’t spend on smaller things until the engine/power thing is sorted. I feel like I spend from the same pocket on not important things while the engine remains untouched and every time I drive the car I dream about more power.
The engine is healthy what makes it even worse as I have no excuse to spend money on it. I’ve bought an MC1 cam kit because I think it is time for a new cam at 76k miles and the dyno result of 212hp confirmed my theory.
Today I looked into V8D engine packages and there are some good deals but some things are not clear.
A 4.6 long block with phantom head, good cam is about 4k
I want to keep the 4 litre capacity because of legal restrictions (I live in Hungary) so I’d go for a V8D built long block with stage 3(?) head and an MC1 or Stealth cam. It can be bigger cc but it must be built arround the 4.0 TVR block.
Can it be done under 4k?
I don’t know how should I calculate the value of my engine? Once the MC1 cam will be swapped in it will produce healthy hp. I am not sure it would be sensible to use this engine as a basis for a V8D build, they sell reconed 4.0 short block for 1.3k, it would be more sensible to have the build made on that basis.
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