Sc-Power Supercharger kit

[Boosted LS1]

And probably a decent dose of detonation on the upstroke because of incorrect timing.

[Supercharged5]

spitfire4v8 said:

Exactly so how is that the fault of the supercharger ? If you know the limitations of a system, yet go beyond that, youve got to expect trouble. that's not the supercharger's fault.

This is why things like turbos and nitrous get a bad rep. It's largely the human element that cocks it up.

I don’t blame the supercharger. But it ‘s a fact that an oem Mx5 engine can not produce rod bending torque level without Fi.

Preignition is always a big danger afaik it causes psiton melt.
Higher power fi’d mx5s usually have some form of knock protection, at least mine had an oldfasioned standalone knock protection device called J&S Ultrasafeguard. It even had a led display to show how much timink it pulls when it hears knock.
It gave very good feedback of what is too much timing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6o0NnDG7lXU

[Boosted LS1]

Am loving the sound of that :-)

[Classic Chim]

Supercharged5 said:

I don’t blame the supercharger. But it ‘s a fact that an oem Mx5 engine can not produce rod bending torque level without Fi.

Preignition is always a big danger afaik it causes psiton melt.
Higher power fi’d mx5s usually have some form of knock protection, at least mine had an oldfasioned standalone knock protection device called J&S Ultrasafeguard. It even had a led display to show how much timink it pulls when it hears knock.
It gave very good feedback of what is too much timing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6o0NnDG7lXU

I’d have thought with the knowledge you have you could make one of these basic systems work well on an RV8

[spitfire4v8]

Supercharged5 said:

I don’t blame the supercharger. But it ‘s a fact that an oem Mx5 engine can not produce rod bending torque level without Fi.

What do you think is the cause then ?

Fortunately we aren't talking about mx5s though .. i've never seen a bent rv8 conrod that hasn't been driven through a deep flood.

[Supercharged5]

Spitfire4V8 let’s forget mx5s.
And forced induction.
I convinced myself to keep it NA.

If I install a V8D 4.6 (assuming that I can somehow bend the rules and have it registered as a legit TVR engine) what power level can each package give on OEM ECU?

http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/engines/l...

I’d go for stage II or III , can these engine versions produce 280hp or lets say good 450 level performance?

If I go for one of these what can I do with my original long engine?

[JD1000]

I'm fitting this Eaton M90 - just because I like the whine that twin screws produce. I don't care what the extra power it will produce - it's not going to be anywhere near a modern performance car anyway, so why bother...
The engine is good - <20,000 (kms, not miles)

[Belle427]

Supercharged5 said:

Spitfire4V8 let’s forget mx5s.
And forced induction.
I convinced myself to keep it NA.

If I install a V8D 4.6 (assuming that I can somehow bend the rules and have it registered as a legit TVR engine) what power level can each package give on OEM ECU?

http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/engines/l...

I’d go for stage II or III , can these engine versions produce 280hp or lets say good 450 level performance?

If I go for one of these what can I do with my original long engine?

Could you not ask them if they can use your existing block as the base and keep the engine number?
Someone will correct me if I’m wrong but I think the blocks are the same apart from some cross bolting on the main bearings.
The 4.6 should be a very nice upgrade and from what I’ve read and produce close to 300 Bhp.

Edited by Belle427 on Thursday 4th March 16:12

[Supercharged5]

Belle427 said:

Could you not ask them if they can use your existing block as the base and keep the engine number?
Someone will correct me if I’m wrong but I think the blocks are the same apart from some cross bolting on the main bearings.
The 4.6 should be a very nice upgrade and from what I’ve read and produce close to 300 Bhp.

My engine code is 37A4OP. I must retain it or I can have other TVR RV8 engines fitted if it falls in the same or better emission category but this change necessitates some administration.

I have no idea how could I use an RR block but it’s huge administration work I guess.

It is always an option to build something on the basis of my engine but it is too good to be molested.
The best would be to sell it as a whole and swap in a 450 or 500 engine but I have no illusions... it won’t be easy to sell my 4.0 in Hungary and also not easy to source good condition 450/500.
Selling the car is no option for me.

Actually your engine would’ve been a good option if you intended to sell it.

Edited by Belle427 on Thursday 4th March 16:12

[Belle427]

My old car has found a new home so I’m happy about that.
I’m a bit lost on your regulations there so sorry about that!
Seems like the easiest option is to just add some nice heads, ported intake etc and a new cam and keep it as a nice revvy 400 engine.
You could go a little wilder on the cam with the stealth but you would need pistons that have valve reliefs in them, not a difficult job though.
I would guess this would see you somewhere close to your goal of 280 hp.

[350Matt]

being as I got 285bhp from my old 4.0ltr I'd say a well built 4.6 should be 320bhp if not more

[Classic Chim]

350Matt said:

being as I got 285bhp from my old 4.0ltr I'd say a well built 4.6 should be 320bhp if not more

It’s funny you say that as my 4.6 with standard heads with no porting, 38 mm LR trumpets, standard pistons and bores but re ringed, new 885 Powers cam vernier gear and a crank regrind but no real tuning mods other than removing AFR meter as part of MBE ignition upgrade produced 300 bhp on a dyno Catted.
If you tweak the map though it’s not strictly necessary it’s around 310-315 de Catted.
Pretty quick

As has often been said heads are where the bottle neck is for hp.
But it’s not the whole story as the bigger cc engines do benefit from the extra torque they produce, even Catted mine on the rollers made almost 350 ft of torque which was my goal personally. It’s rapid and spins up faster which equals more acceleration regardless of those top line figures.

Edited by Classic Chim on Saturday 6th March 10:40

Edited by Classic Chim on Saturday 6th March 10:46

[Supercharged5]

This would be the logical next step than:

http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/heads/war... for 1200£

Or maybe this for 900 if I can’t afford the big valve one. http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/heads/pha...

[Belle427]

I went with the Warriors, paired with their cam and 3 stage intake package I was told this would yield 40 to 50 bhp.
Not cheap at roughly £3000 though.
I still think it’s better to put the money into a S/C kit even if you have to wait a while, it’s a no brainier for me.

Edited by Belle427 on Sunday 7th March 07:51

[Supercharged5]

Belle427 said:

I went with the Warriors, paired with their cam and 3 stage intake package I was told this would yield 40 to 50 bhp.
Not cheap at roughly £3000 though.
I still think it’s better to put the money into a S/C kit even if you have to wait a while, it’s a no brainier for me.

Edited by Belle427 on Sunday 7th March 07:51

Huh, it is always FI what seems to be more economical when we sum up all the costs of NA tuning. But it’s tuning and engine refeshment at the same time.
Do you have adjustable pushrods? Strongly recommend them for sporty cams. I won’t falliw their recommendation with the MC1 and I feel somewhat guilty and stressed about it... what if my mechanic sees out of tolerance lash when he imstalls the new cam?

[Belle427]

Supercharged5 said:

Belle427 said:

I went with the Warriors, paired with their cam and 3 stage intake package I was told this would yield 40 to 50 bhp.
Not cheap at roughly £3000 though.
I still think it’s better to put the money into a S/C kit even if you have to wait a while, it’s a no brainier for me.

Edited by Belle427 on Sunday 7th March 07:51

Huh, it is always FI what seems to be more economical when we sum up all the costs of NA tuning. But it’s tuning and engine refeshment at the same time.
Do you have adjustable pushrods? Strongly recommend them for sporty cams. I won’t falliw their recommendation with the MC1 and I feel somewhat guilty and stressed about it... what if my mechanic sees out of tolerance lash when he imstalls the new cam?

Sadly these are the problems you encounter as soon as you open up the engine and start messing which is why I’d go FI.
I found with the Mc1 I had trouble getting the timing figure spot on even with retarding the timing set I had supplied, it really needed a vernier set.
Lifter preload was also excessive, managed to get it better with shimming but adjustable pushrods would have been better.

[Supercharged5]

Ouch, I was hoping for a less complex surgery...are you sure that your emgine heads were not skmed at some point before your ownership?

[Belle427]

Don't think so, to be honest I don't know what sort of pre load was on the old lifters so its difficult to compare.