Fastest swimming pool this side of the "Mason-Dickson Line"

Fastest swimming pool this side of the "Mason-Dickson Line"

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sheff3

Original Poster:

70 posts

283 months

Monday 12th November 2001
quotequote all
Does anybody have any experience of making a wedge water proof..... stop laughting you lot! This is a serious matter my doctor says I could end up lossing a leg if this case of "Trench foot" gets any worse.

The leaking on the drivers side is far worse than on the passinger side so I suspect that if I replace as many of the rubber seals as I can see things can only improve, I've told you lot once, STOP LAUGHTING.

Can anyone give me any advise on doing the job or sourcing materials?

foggy

1,158 posts

282 months

Monday 12th November 2001
quotequote all
This reply isn't constructive at all, but how about changing from RH drive to LH drive, then the passenger would get wet instead!

The thought made me snigger, but I'll get me coat now and crawl back under my rock.

Colin

jmorgan

36,010 posts

284 months

Monday 12th November 2001
quotequote all
Mines dry. HONEST! I have 2 bits of trim near each of the seat belt anchor that direct h2o to the outside of the door seals from the lid seals. 2, 3 inch cut outs in the bottom of the door seals about 3 inches from each end to let out any h2o that gets on the wrong side of the seal from the window (I think.My old 350 was sieve until I cut out the seals then slightly damp, never cured it 100% before I sold it). Got the new rubber from a local dealer at the time for my 350 at around £50
PS. No responsability taken if it don't work.

Edited by jmorgan on Monday 12th November 16:48

350matt

3,738 posts

279 months

Wednesday 14th November 2001
quotequote all
Theres a couple of things you can do:
Use Vaseline on all the rubbers as it softens the rubber and makes it slightly sticky, so providing a better seal. (Although you do feel a bit of a perve going to Boots and paying for the bumper 5 Kg vaseline jar)
Also make sure the roof fabric is regularly treated with fabsil of similar to stop it soaking and dripping through. Also make sure that the door/roof seal is firmly pushed onto the body work and use mastic or similar to seal and locate it around the bends.
Finally I've found that with a bit of chopping about the seal from an MGF gives a much better seal along the 'A' post and it reduces wind noise.
The windscreens have a tendency to seperate and go milky which can also allow water in underneath the windscreen.
Remember Mastic / ponge will sort most of these out.
Even after all this I have to admit mine still lets water in but it's MUCH better than when I first had it.

Matt

jmorgan

36,010 posts

284 months

Wednesday 14th November 2001
quotequote all
One of the problems I did not cure (on my old 350) was water comming in the roof bit by the rivet on the targa top middle front. But I put that down to new seal (not letting the water run away around the windscreen top) and the material old and osmosis doing the rest. I think to get all dry may be a bit of an art.

cirks

2,470 posts

283 months

Friday 23rd November 2001
quotequote all
two easy things to cure the ingress of water (well, help prevent it anyway)
1) cut small 'V' shape slits in the corners of the bottom bit of door seal where it becomes vertical. This means the water should run down the 'gulley' in the seal but then runs out of the car over the sill rather than the default which seems to be inwards!
2) the obvious one....make sure the little tabs at the door edge on the roof are outside the car rather than tucked in when you put the roof up!