Is waxoyl a silent assasin?
Discussion
The areas which definitely need some sort of sprayable wax as I see it are the bits of the outriggers etc that cannot be painted without a body off, rear seat belt mount etc. Those bits are certainly rusting on mine and I can see no other way of protecting them.
I agree that soundly painted exposed chassis should not need a layer of gloop on them.
I agree that soundly painted exposed chassis should not need a layer of gloop on them.
and my car is aloft.
I use a mixture of waxol plus used engine oil, it is a mixture I was shown by a MOT tester about 30 years ago, the problem I have with painting is you can not get to the parts that need it, first I used a small hammer and a screw driver, just to check that the bits I could see were sound,
(it was as painful as it sounds, waiting for it to go through)
then I removed all the stones stuck in-between the body and the chassis, after that I sanded down the main outriggers with strips of emery paper passed over the tubing, followed by a good painting with the mixture,a cloth was used passed over the outrigger to spread the oil around, a small plastic bottle was used with a thin tube to get to the difficult places.
Bad point... it is not pleasing to look at, and it is black when it drips on your drive,I always put a plastic sheet down when I do it, it is only a temporary measure, and not a replacement for a proper job, as was done by andyw,just a way of slowing down the corrosion.
Plus points over waxol, I think the acids in the used oil eat into the rust, and make a better bond , I hope it soaks into the parts under the old paint that has rust near it,
just look at the centre part of the chassis that has a coating of engine oil, no rust there, so engine oil has some rust prevention properties.
If you interested in trying it I would suggest, next time the car is up on ramps/stands, paint some on nuts and small areas that are rusty as a trial, and see what they look like next time you are under the car.
Phil
(it was as painful as it sounds, waiting for it to go through)
then I removed all the stones stuck in-between the body and the chassis, after that I sanded down the main outriggers with strips of emery paper passed over the tubing, followed by a good painting with the mixture,a cloth was used passed over the outrigger to spread the oil around, a small plastic bottle was used with a thin tube to get to the difficult places.
Bad point... it is not pleasing to look at, and it is black when it drips on your drive,I always put a plastic sheet down when I do it, it is only a temporary measure, and not a replacement for a proper job, as was done by andyw,just a way of slowing down the corrosion.
Plus points over waxol, I think the acids in the used oil eat into the rust, and make a better bond , I hope it soaks into the parts under the old paint that has rust near it,
just look at the centre part of the chassis that has a coating of engine oil, no rust there, so engine oil has some rust prevention properties.
If you interested in trying it I would suggest, next time the car is up on ramps/stands, paint some on nuts and small areas that are rusty as a trial, and see what they look like next time you are under the car.
Phil
thanks for the advise, i think i will still head down the Dintrol route, though as you rightly point out a oily car isnt normaly a rusty one.
I hope the designed stuff will offer more michanical protection from impact debris.
I dont like the sound of a hammer and screw driver,on the out riggers first. it this to clean off muck or look for holes. gulp.
Also do you remove anything from underneath the car for hard to reach access? or just squeeze real hard on the squerty bottle for them hard to reach places?
does any one use a sprey gun or is that over-kill?
also after reading how the chemicals work it would seem cleaning of the rust is not necessary, as the 1st Dintrol stuff to put on uses the rust to form some sort of compound. Then the second tin forms a protective seal.
Any one els had experiance with this stuff?
I hope the designed stuff will offer more michanical protection from impact debris.I dont like the sound of a hammer and screw driver,on the out riggers first. it this to clean off muck or look for holes. gulp.
Also do you remove anything from underneath the car for hard to reach access? or just squeeze real hard on the squerty bottle for them hard to reach places?
does any one use a sprey gun or is that over-kill?
also after reading how the chemicals work it would seem cleaning of the rust is not necessary, as the 1st Dintrol stuff to put on uses the rust to form some sort of compound. Then the second tin forms a protective seal.
Any one els had experiance with this stuff?
I'm old enough (sadly) to remember when cars were sold as standard with no underseal. Believe me, once they were five or more years old chassis welding became a regular procedure to get through MOT's.
My point is, I would think just about ANY decent chassis treatment (if applied correctly over a properly prepared surface) must be better than nothing at all. Unless of course, you are really vigilant & observant & catch every rust patch in it's early stages. How many undersealed from new cars fail MOTs on chassis rust these days ? Just my two pence worth.
Chris
My point is, I would think just about ANY decent chassis treatment (if applied correctly over a properly prepared surface) must be better than nothing at all. Unless of course, you are really vigilant & observant & catch every rust patch in it's early stages. How many undersealed from new cars fail MOTs on chassis rust these days ? Just my two pence worth.
Chris
ads said:
Does anyone know if you can get the dintrol in bigger cans? I have a shutz gun already and just wondered if they done bigger tins so I could just refil the shutz can!
Plus may be cheaper!
next size up from 1ltr is 20ltr at £138.51. I just took delivery of 4x400ml spray cans but dont know how far that will go. Plus may be cheaper!
ads said:
dogbucket said:
next size up from 1ltr is 20ltr at £138.51. I just took delivery of 4x400ml spray cans but dont know how far that will go.
Thanks Dogbucket. 20 litres does sound a bit too much! 
Although i guess i could use it on my other cars.
http://www.rust.co.uk/popup.cfm?p_i=405096&p_n...
Does this seem a good price?
Has anyone used all thats included?
That is were I got mine from.
I went for the 400ml aerosol cans 4941, as anything else like the kit you mentioned needs an air compressor which I dont have.
I also bought the aerosol extension tube to get into those hard to reach places.
Did a small test area just now and coverage is good from the can, I think 1 can will do the whole of the rear suspension for example (one side). Looks like it will take a while to fully harden 24rs needed I think.
I went for the 400ml aerosol cans 4941, as anything else like the kit you mentioned needs an air compressor which I dont have.
I also bought the aerosol extension tube to get into those hard to reach places.
Did a small test area just now and coverage is good from the can, I think 1 can will do the whole of the rear suspension for example (one side). Looks like it will take a while to fully harden 24rs needed I think.
Hopeing 4 cans will do suspension and outriggers, but will have to see. So you might need more than 6 for the whole car, who knows?
I stripped and then painted the front wishbones and outriggers with epoxy mastic paint end of last year, so that has got a solid base. I recon rear suspension would need dismantling to paint properly so I am going to take a chance and use Dinitrol over the cleaned up original powder coat, having removed the flaky bits first. Not ideal I know.
My initial tests with the Dinitrol; it seems to set to a fairly dry finish, Waxoyl is always still slightly tacky I find. Feels tougher than Waxoyl doing the finger nail scrape test, so looks good so far.
I stripped and then painted the front wishbones and outriggers with epoxy mastic paint end of last year, so that has got a solid base. I recon rear suspension would need dismantling to paint properly so I am going to take a chance and use Dinitrol over the cleaned up original powder coat, having removed the flaky bits first. Not ideal I know.
My initial tests with the Dinitrol; it seems to set to a fairly dry finish, Waxoyl is always still slightly tacky I find. Feels tougher than Waxoyl doing the finger nail scrape test, so looks good so far.
Many years ago I had a gallon tin of waxoyl rust through from the inside.
More recently a friend had a regularly waxoyled Griff chassis rot through, seemed to trap the water below the wax.
More recently also I have used the waxoyl black underseal on my mini and that seems to stay slightly tacky and holds to the rust except where it gets worn off.
More recently a friend had a regularly waxoyled Griff chassis rot through, seemed to trap the water below the wax.
More recently also I have used the waxoyl black underseal on my mini and that seems to stay slightly tacky and holds to the rust except where it gets worn off.
This might be of interest. It two Ginetta chassis of the same age, one with Waxoly treatment from new, and the other not. I think the trick here is it was put onto a brand newly painted dry chassis, and retouched on a yearly basis with thinned down waxoyl and white spirit, so it never really dried out. I put on a total of 5 gallons however onto a Lancia Monte Carlo, and it kept rusting away under the now thick wax. It also caught fire each time I had it welded! Some things you simply cant rust proof.
I agree with Blitz.
On top/and back of outrigger tubes and angle plates can be easely! SOAKE SOAKED with waxoyl.
Impossible to paint or waxoil the unseen top surface of outrigger tubes by painting underneath without a body lift, but it can be done by as follows.
Under the wheel arches on the outer edge of the outriggers where it meets the body, can be found a finger diameter hole On Griffs and Chimps.
Jack up and take the wheels off first for easy access. A 6ft, 5mm spray extension plastic tube (Hammerite or Finnigans) with a crude purpose spray nozzle on the end, can be pushed and patiently wiggled into the back wheel arch hole to emerge from the hole in the front wheel arch.
By withdrawing the extension tube slowly and pumping the waxoyl, DILUTED WITH 50% WHITE SPIRIT, creeps further into crevices, the outrigger tops and angle plates can be thoroughly SOAKED. Need lots of old newspapers on the floor to catch the excess waxoyl drip. This indicates a good SOAKING.
The front and back holes in the arches, including the exposed frames can be blanked off with some tailored rubber sheet (old bits of mud flaps etc)stuck on with silicone. This prevents the ingress of road grit, water and salt spray, the cause of outrigger corrosion. I have done this on my 1999 Griff and will redo every 2 years. If I had new outriggers I would ensure they were double enamel painted on top of the brittle powder coating which I suspect cracks with outrigger and chassis flexing?), and thoroughly thick waxoyled before fitting.
IMOP, new outriggers should be galvanized and waxoiled. No more rust ever. The assasin will run away. Waxoil will stay put!
On top/and back of outrigger tubes and angle plates can be easely! SOAKE SOAKED with waxoyl.
Impossible to paint or waxoil the unseen top surface of outrigger tubes by painting underneath without a body lift, but it can be done by as follows.
Under the wheel arches on the outer edge of the outriggers where it meets the body, can be found a finger diameter hole On Griffs and Chimps.
Jack up and take the wheels off first for easy access. A 6ft, 5mm spray extension plastic tube (Hammerite or Finnigans) with a crude purpose spray nozzle on the end, can be pushed and patiently wiggled into the back wheel arch hole to emerge from the hole in the front wheel arch.
By withdrawing the extension tube slowly and pumping the waxoyl, DILUTED WITH 50% WHITE SPIRIT, creeps further into crevices, the outrigger tops and angle plates can be thoroughly SOAKED. Need lots of old newspapers on the floor to catch the excess waxoyl drip. This indicates a good SOAKING.
The front and back holes in the arches, including the exposed frames can be blanked off with some tailored rubber sheet (old bits of mud flaps etc)stuck on with silicone. This prevents the ingress of road grit, water and salt spray, the cause of outrigger corrosion. I have done this on my 1999 Griff and will redo every 2 years. If I had new outriggers I would ensure they were double enamel painted on top of the brittle powder coating which I suspect cracks with outrigger and chassis flexing?), and thoroughly thick waxoyled before fitting.
IMOP, new outriggers should be galvanized and waxoiled. No more rust ever. The assasin will run away. Waxoil will stay put!
Edited by EGB on Sunday 27th October 10:19
For what it's worth, I've noticed a big difference between the original Waxoyle and the black stuff.
Original in my experience gives excellent rust prevention, stays flexible and is very durable.
The black stuff however is evil! Although it looks good when it goes on, it seems to let the surface rusting continue underneath and starts to flake off with the rust within a few months if the conditions are damp, to the point you have to remove it and start again (with something better!). Don't know why this should be but it also applies to their underseal with added Waxoyle. Also, compared to the original it's much messier to apply and not pleasant when you are subsequently working on the car.
Original in my experience gives excellent rust prevention, stays flexible and is very durable.
The black stuff however is evil! Although it looks good when it goes on, it seems to let the surface rusting continue underneath and starts to flake off with the rust within a few months if the conditions are damp, to the point you have to remove it and start again (with something better!). Don't know why this should be but it also applies to their underseal with added Waxoyle. Also, compared to the original it's much messier to apply and not pleasant when you are subsequently working on the car.
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