My project MGB GT.

My project MGB GT.

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Kentish

Original Poster:

15,169 posts

233 months

Tuesday 14th April 2009
quotequote all
I've always loved the MGB GT but out of the 50 odd cars I've owned since learning to drive I've never owned one.

I have driven a few B GT's over the years though and it really stood out as a nice drive, so much nicer than the Spitfires I ever drove.

It's a 1969 (same year as me wink), chrome bumper B GT with nice wire wheels and in an excellent colour (I prefer this red to the more popular blaze - orangey red colour).

The interior is quite tidy and the body is pretty good.

It does need a little work however but was only £2300 with 9 months MOT & same amount of tax.

I've done a few little jobs already and it's a very satisfying car to work on and simple (so far) too.

The work will be done as and when I can afford it and have the time which is not really an issue as this is a car I intend to keep until I'm too old to drive smile

I'll update this thread as I undertake more work but for the time being, here are a few photos:-















Edited by Kentish on Tuesday 14th April 23:48

Kentish

Original Poster:

15,169 posts

233 months

Tuesday 14th April 2009
quotequote all
I've been having trouble starting the B regardless of whether it is hot or cold.

So, I took a look at the B tonight and the choke is all working fine and I set the carbs fast idle correctly to around 850 rpm, it was set too high at 1200 rpm but once set correctly I noticed the car is hunting indicating a rich mixture. I need to check the workshop manual for the correct idle setting as 850 was a guess. I wound it up slightly to just under 1000 rpm and the idle is a lot smoother with no hunting.

The K&N twin air filters look quite dirty so I'm going to replace those.

The carbs appear to be in quite good condition with no play in the linkages to speak of and I gave them a thin coating with lithium grease followed by a liberal coating of silicone spray to get everything nice and smooth and free and it all seems OK.

I'm not going to mess with the carbs too much now the idle speed is OK.

I'll first go through making sure the correct distrubutor cap, rotor arm, points, condensor, plugs, coil and ballast & leads are fitted. I'm also going to check all chassis earths and also the live connections between battery and starter etc - just to make sure.

I took the broken bakelite steering wheel off too and replaced it with a new Mountney leather wheel and new boss. The only trouble was the horn button and connections were completely different between each wheel so I had to fabricate a new push system and connector to fit into the new horn push with an adjuster stud screwed into the push and then adjust that until the push made contact with the stud (used a continuity tester on a mutimeter to check this), once in place the stud would make contact with the sprung connector coming up through the column which appeared to have a circlip missing so I made a new retainer from a fibre washer which worked well. I cleaned the paint off the inside of the boss where the horn push side contact is located and bent the side contact out slightly to obtain a tighter fit. Popped the horn push into place and connected the horn up, pressed the new horn push and perfect, I have a working horn again!

One job down smile

Then I noticed a leaking rear wheel cylinder frown

It's only to be expected on a 40 year old car that's maybe done 3k miles in the past 6 years. And I'm having fun, I got a real buzz out of making the connector up for the horn and it all working perfectly - only a small thing I know but really satisfying when you make up your own parts smile


wadgebeast

3,856 posts

210 months

Wednesday 15th April 2009
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The K+Ns are normally good for 100k + miles - just get a cleaning kit for them and give them a bit of a clean with a stiff (non wire) brush.

Kentish

Original Poster:

15,169 posts

233 months

Wednesday 15th April 2009
quotequote all
wadgebeast said:
The K+Ns are normally good for 100k + miles - just get a cleaning kit for them and give them a bit of a clean with a stiff (non wire) brush.
I think I'd like to change them anyway as one is a bit dented in the side, collpasing the element a little.

wildoliver

8,766 posts

215 months

Wednesday 15th April 2009
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The wheel cylinder is a simple job on the b.

Don't waste your money replacing the KNs, just wash out in petrol and re-oil, you will be surprised how much rubbish comes out.

Bs should be easy starting engines, if they don't it is (provided the carbs have fuel in and the engine is turning over at anything more than a crawl) always ignition and usually the points being dirty. If it doesn't start at all then it's normally the condenser but in 15 years of MGB ownership I've only had it once.

Clean the points, scrape the fur off the pegs inside the dizzy cap, polish the top of the rotor arm (where the centre point connects) with a bit of emery (don't polish the end though that goes to the pegs just gently scrape with the end of a screwdriver, only if really dirty, you don't want to be taking any metal off. The check the leads are clean and making good contact, clean and gap the plugs and make sure the terminals are tight on the end.

It should then start up easily.

Kentish

Original Poster:

15,169 posts

233 months

Thursday 16th April 2009
quotequote all
wildoliver said:
The wheel cylinder is a simple job on the b.

Don't waste your money replacing the KNs, just wash out in petrol and re-oil, you will be surprised how much rubbish comes out.

Bs should be easy starting engines, if they don't it is (provided the carbs have fuel in and the engine is turning over at anything more than a crawl) always ignition and usually the points being dirty. If it doesn't start at all then it's normally the condenser but in 15 years of MGB ownership I've only had it once.

Clean the points, scrape the fur off the pegs inside the dizzy cap, polish the top of the rotor arm (where the centre point connects) with a bit of emery (don't polish the end though that goes to the pegs just gently scrape with the end of a screwdriver, only if really dirty, you don't want to be taking any metal off. The check the leads are clean and making good contact, clean and gap the plugs and make sure the terminals are tight on the end.

It should then start up easily.
That's great, thanks for the info - this will be my first area to check out.

I have a new dizzy cap and a rotor arm and I think I noticed a new set of points in a box too.

I do also suspect the fuel pump, the contact points in that failed when I test drove the car before purchase (a locating pin had fallen out). They are quite expensive (£75 - £130) depending on the supplier and make.

I'll order one at the same time I get the rear wheel cylinder (which are only £9.50)!

SB - Nigel

7,898 posts

233 months

Thursday 16th April 2009
quotequote all
K&N clean and recharge kit less than £15 http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/products/ca...

Kentish said:
I have a new dizzy cap and a rotor arm and I think I noticed a new set of points in a box too.
Good idea to renew dissy cap and rotor arm - new pionts sets can be a pain they often need resetting IMO change to electronic asap - change leads too (they're so cheap)

More expensive but changing all battery leads and main earth leads if it hasn't already been done will help

I also have a sports coil and open up plugs gap for economy and performace

Kentish said:
I do also suspect the fuel pump, the contact points in that failed when I test drove the car before purchase (a locating pin had fallen out). They are quite expensive (£75 - £130) depending on the supplier and make.
£47-£88 the ones I saw, go for electronic IMO

Welcome back wild one wavey

Kentish

Original Poster:

15,169 posts

233 months

Thursday 16th April 2009
quotequote all
Thanks Nigel.

Yes, I will replace all ignition parts and the fuel pump I saw earlier from mgpartsuk was a good price and electronic with no points, much better!

I mentioned in an earlier post about the battery connections and earthing points, although I think they are all OK as I have no other symptoms of these being poor (headlights, heater blower etc are all very good and do not dim when other items are switched on).

I'm also planning to fit a lumenition kit before too long.

Spares are so cheap I may even fit a new pair of SU HS4 carbs!

Likewise, front and rear brakes can be completely replaced and upgraded for £250, it'd be daft not to!

SB - Nigel

7,898 posts

233 months

Friday 17th April 2009
quotequote all
Kentish said:
Thanks Nigel.

Yes, I will replace all ignition parts and the fuel pump I saw earlier from mgpartsuk was a good price and electronic with no points, much better!
thumbup

Kentish said:
I mentioned in an earlier post about the battery connections and earthing points, although I think they are all OK as I have no other symptoms of these being poor (headlights, heater blower etc are all very good and do not dim when other items are switched on).
That sounds like you probably are OK then but remember that turning over the starter motor draws more that those you’ve mentioned even added together so it’s the starting of the car which will suffer first but you might not notice straight away

Most breakdown call outs are for batteries, headlights are fine but car wont start

You have two batteries, a long lead from batteries to starter and extra connecting leads for the two batteries these add up to more connecting leads and connections all of which must be must be in good condition, clean and tight fitting

I know someone who converted to one 12v battery successfully by measuring the cradle and going thro’ a battery catalogue

Kentish said:
I'm also planning to fit a lumenition kit before too long.
There are over makes available too, if it had been available at the time I would have fitted a 1-2-3 distributor as you get full electronic ignition plus a new distributor
http://www.mgocaccessories.co.uk/acatalog/MGOC_Acc...

A sports coil (and wider plug gap) are excellent value for money too

Kentish said:
Spares are so cheap I may even fit a new pair of SU HS4 carbs!
Unless you have lots of big problems with your present carbs I’d suggest you save your money and use it for something like the 1-2-3 instead

Kentish said:
Likewise, front and rear brakes can be completely replaced and upgraded for £250, it'd be daft not to!
Again you’ve no need to go overboard here good brakes yes but upgraded not necessarily – I was like you wanting to upgrade most things on the car ASAP but having had a few classics now I realise some of them were unnecessary or gave little improvement or even spoilt the overall balance of the car

Regular, full proper servicing is what I preach especially to brakes, suspension (bushes replacement rather than unnecessary springs/dampers replacement), steering, and tyres

Instead of green stuff pads which I’m told need a little warming up in cold weather(?) and grooved/drilled discs which I’m told are not that effective(?) make sure to renew your brake fluid and check the brake lines regularly (and fit the S/S hoses)

(NB - I’ve lost my brake expert contact so I may have been told wrong about above)

Drive and service the car regularly and it will run better and you'll enjoy its ownership more, good luck

pantscat

996 posts

226 months

Friday 17th April 2009
quotequote all
Kentish said:
I'm also planning to fit a lumenition kit before too long.
SB - Nigel said:
There are over makes available too, if it had been available at the time I would have fitted a 1-2-3 distributor as you get full electronic ignition plus a new distributor
http://www.mgocaccessories.co.uk/acatalog/MGOC_Acc...
Definitely worth going for a 1-2-3 - it's a revelation!
Has made such a difference to my B - easier to start, smoother and a fair bit more responsive too. drink

Kentish

Original Poster:

15,169 posts

233 months

Saturday 18th April 2009
quotequote all
That's pretty good considering the whole dizzy is replaced too.
I think that will be on my list then. biggrin

There's a Lucas brake disc upgrade available for the MGB, grooved and drilled so I'll probably go for those - they come in a kit with new calipers and goodridge stainless hoses and EBC greenstuff pads.

I'm also going to get the rear brake overhaul kit as its only £35 more than a pair of wheel cylinders but comes as a complete set of springs clips and fittings, 2x rear wheel cylinders and a set of rear shoes. I'll also get a new set of rear drums. I may as well get a new master cylinder and reservoir whilst I'm at it!


SB - Nigel

7,898 posts

233 months

Saturday 18th April 2009
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Keeping your brakes in top condition is very sensible but unless yours are particularly bad for some reason I would not advise you to change them now because;

a) the brakes on a B are perfectly adequate, you're not driving a modern car and you shouldn't drive it as if it is a modern car, leave brakes as standard and learn to look further and see more (you'll need to do that if you ever want to overtake too) and your general driving will improve too

b) you've not had the car long and it's been sitting gathering faults for the last 6 years (500 miles a year is near enough zero miles) so you may need the money you are going to spend on the brakes for other unforseen things - better used for a full 36,000 mile service and then tune up and wheel alignment

I had my Midget which is my daily driver for 21 months now and I'm still sorting out little faults having serviced the car twice a year and replace numerous components on a car that was bought in better condition than most

I advise you drive the car for 9-12 months with regular full servicing before you spend any money on upgrades/improvements and by drive I mean regularly and of varing distances and use - drive the car and enjoy it, full day runs

Get the Owners Handbook, they're only £5.50, and learn about your car and how to use it and servicing requirements

Learn by my (very expensive) experience and mistakes it'll be cheaper for you smile

Kentish

Original Poster:

15,169 posts

233 months

Saturday 18th April 2009
quotequote all
Hi Nigel;

Yes, I appreciate what you are saying but i think lack of use has done the brakes no favours.

They have improved slighty with use but I don't want to leave them as they are as they don't have enough bite and i have the leaking rear wheel cylinder and it is one part of the car that has not had a great deal of attention by the look of the brake components.

I do make allowances for lack of servo and for braking distance but other people, particularly the enormous amount of people who see it as normal to pull out in front of you on roundabouts and also pedestrians are an issue with the brakes as they are. Brakes are not an area to economise on IMHO.

The prices for upgrade kits are so good I thought I may as well go the whole 9 yards with them straight off. The second areas of attention will be to get the ignition & fuel pump sorted so that the B starts 1st time every time and the stainless exhaust adjusted which knocks on the rear damper.

Other than these things, i can't see why I wouldn't be able to use the B every day - everything else seems nice and as it should be.

I do want to get a coat of POR15 on the underside and then some waxoil before the winter.

SB - Nigel

7,898 posts

233 months

Saturday 18th April 2009
quotequote all
Well Kentish based on above I agree with you, if the upgraded are near to the price of standard then why not and yes number one priority always on any car is the brakes

The lack of use would make the components look bad possibly a lot worse than they actually are and the leaking rear may make the brakes feel worse than they actually are too but top priority to replace that anyway

The lack of servo is a bit like the feel of the brakes at the moment something that takes away your confidence in their performace - as you may well know the servo will not stop the car any quicker than without the servo but it feels like it will - I think you'd be surprised how quick a good B would stop at least at the slow speeds where cars pull out on you and pedestrians cross in front of you

Of course when you know your brakes are not as good as modern you will then look out more for hazards and avoid them, but you must have confidence in your car to enjoy it so the upgraded brakes are a good idea

A big thumbs up for everyday use (plus it makes sense)

I wonder if like I did you'll get blinded by the white heated rear window consul light so much that you switch it off and wind down your window instead in winter

I 'd change the wire wheels for alloys to save cleaning, setting spokes, to get rid of inner tubes and give a choice of very slightly wider tyres (doubt if you'd agree with that laugh)

Keep posting developements on your car and if you have problems then post as there are a few people that know what they're talking about that post here (not me, and certainly not anything mechanical/technical with me)

Good luck, drive and enjoy your B

It's good weather tomorrow (and for those of us that can take advantage Monday and Tuesday too)

SB - Nigel

7,898 posts

233 months

Sunday 19th April 2009
quotequote all
Don't want to put you off too much but I just found this in my wanderings Drilled/grooved discs

Fresh high temp brake fluid seems to be the order of the day here

Kentish

Original Poster:

15,169 posts

233 months

Sunday 19th April 2009
quotequote all
SB - Nigel said:
Don't want to put you off too much but I just found this in my wanderings Drilled/grooved discs

Fresh high temp brake fluid seems to be the order of the day here
This kit is drilled but not on vented discs which I know can crack.

I've not heard of drilled solid discs cracking but that doesn't mean to say that they won't - Pete (GreenV8S) is someone I know to be very knowledgable from my TVR-S days.

I'll see whether I can get a pair of grooved only. Grooved discs are quite good at cleaning up your pads and giving a fresh even braking surface for a longer period of their lifespan, which is good for cars not in daily use.

I may still buy the kit as it's comprehensive and good value and ebay the discs and fit the alternative ones I source.

SB - Nigel

7,898 posts

233 months

Sunday 19th April 2009
quotequote all
Kentish said:
. . . my TVR-S days.
another fun car smile

Kentish said:
I'll see whether I can get a pair of grooved only. Grooved discs are quite good at cleaning up your pads and giving a fresh even braking surface for a longer period of their lifespan, which is good for cars not in daily use.
but, but yours is going to be in daily use smile

Kentish said:
I may still buy the kit as it's comprehensive and good value and ebay the discs and fit the alternative ones I source.
other have used this source http://stores.ebay.co.uk/sportbrakediscs apparently you email for those not listed

Kentish

Original Poster:

15,169 posts

233 months

Sunday 19th April 2009
quotequote all
SB - Nigel said:
Kentish said:
SB - Nigel said:
. . . my TVR-S days.
another fun car smile
Yes, that was a lot of fun - not a car I liked to drive every day though, especially in the rain. It was too tail happy and I also needed an umbrella inside the car wink

Kentish said:
I'll see whether I can get a pair of grooved only. Grooved discs are quite good at cleaning up your pads and giving a fresh even braking surface for a longer period of their lifespan, which is good for cars not in daily use.
SB - Nigel said:
but, but yours is going to be in daily use smile
To a point; I won't take it out in the winter on salty roads and I'll minimise the amount of times the car sees rain - unless it rains whilst I'm out of course smile

Kentish said:
I may still buy the kit as it's comprehensive and good value and ebay the discs and fit the alternative ones I source.
SB - Nigel said:
other have used this source http://stores.ebay.co.uk/sportbrakediscs apparently you email for those not listed
Thanks for that, I'll give him a try - see whether he has any grooved only discs for a B.

One thing I'm struggling to find are a complete matching set of black leather seats, I'm after some with red piping if i can find some. I have seen them from different suppliers but none so far offer both front and rear and the different suppliers seats don't match. I'll probably end up rebuilding the ones I have since I've seen the covers and foam kits for both front and rear from the same supplier but they are quite expensive, not much less than exhange reupholstered items!



esselte

14,626 posts

266 months

Monday 20th April 2009
quotequote all
Kentish said:
SB - Nigel said:
Kentish said:
SB - Nigel said:
. . . my TVR-S days.
another fun car smile
Yes, that was a lot of fun - not a car I liked to drive every day though, especially in the rain. It was too tail happy and I also needed an umbrella inside the car wink

Kentish said:
I'll see whether I can get a pair of grooved only. Grooved discs are quite good at cleaning up your pads and giving a fresh even braking surface for a longer period of their lifespan, which is good for cars not in daily use.
SB - Nigel said:
but, but yours is going to be in daily use smile
To a point; I won't take it out in the winter on salty roads and I'll minimise the amount of times the car sees rain - unless it rains whilst I'm out of course smile

Kentish said:
I may still buy the kit as it's comprehensive and good value and ebay the discs and fit the alternative ones I source.
SB - Nigel said:
other have used this source http://stores.ebay.co.uk/sportbrakediscs apparently you email for those not listed
Thanks for that, I'll give him a try - see whether he has any grooved only discs for a B.

One thing I'm struggling to find are a complete matching set of black leather seats, I'm after some with red piping if i can find some. I have seen them from different suppliers but none so far offer both front and rear and the different suppliers seats don't match. I'll probably end up rebuilding the ones I have since I've seen the covers and foam kits for both front and rear from the same supplier but they are quite expensive, not much less than exhange reupholstered items!
I don't want to teach you to suck eggs but have you looked at MGBHive? I've no idea of prices however...

SB - Nigel

7,898 posts

233 months

Tuesday 21st April 2009
quotequote all
SB - Nigel said:
but, but yours is going to be in daily use smile
Kentish said:
To a point; I won't take it out in the winter on salty roads and I'll minimise the amount of times the car sees rain - unless it rains whilst I'm out of course
each to there own . . .
not taking it out on saltly roads fair enough (but that's not a daily runner then) and oh, dear, not taking it out in the rain fits you exactly into the bright red, wire wheels MG stereotype :shakeheadsmiley:

Enjoy your car

Just remember to raise and rotate your wheels and to free off your clutch and brakes every spring (subject to weather) - just joking, calm down all laugh

Different horses, different courses, as long as you enjoy yourself and harm no one else go for it smile