My project MGB GT.
Discussion
Tonight I have mostly been welding, or should I say ....learning to weld.
I enrolled on a one year course to learn how to restore bodywork.
I got the hang of MIG/MAG welding but my oxyacetylene needs more practice but at least I did not end up with a piece of metal full of holes
I just need to achieve more penetration
I had great fun though and I'm looking forward to the 4 hours at college next week.
I enrolled on a one year course to learn how to restore bodywork.
I got the hang of MIG/MAG welding but my oxyacetylene needs more practice but at least I did not end up with a piece of metal full of holes
I just need to achieve more penetration
I had great fun though and I'm looking forward to the 4 hours at college next week.
Hip2Bsquare said:
Tonight I have mostly been welding, or should I say ....learning to weld.
I enrolled on a one year course to learn how to restore bodywork.
I got the hang of MIG/MAG welding but my oxyacetylene needs more practice but at least I did not end up with a piece of metal full of holes
I just need to achieve more penetration
I had great fun though and I'm looking forward to the 4 hours at college next week.
Well done ... good for you. Manual skills are so under valued in the former g and p. More's the pity.I enrolled on a one year course to learn how to restore bodywork.
I got the hang of MIG/MAG welding but my oxyacetylene needs more practice but at least I did not end up with a piece of metal full of holes
I just need to achieve more penetration
I had great fun though and I'm looking forward to the 4 hours at college next week.
Been thinking of doing something similar for ages... now I'm fully retired I have a tad more time .... to be creative.
Can I ask how where and long is the course ... location ... hours .. and price details etc.
..
MGJohn said:
Hip2Bsquare said:
Tonight I have mostly been welding, or should I say ....learning to weld.
I enrolled on a one year course to learn how to restore bodywork.
I got the hang of MIG/MAG welding but my oxyacetylene needs more practice but at least I did not end up with a piece of metal full of holes
I just need to achieve more penetration
I had great fun though and I'm looking forward to the 4 hours at college next week.
Well done ... good for you. Manual skills are so under valued in the former g and p. More's the pity.I enrolled on a one year course to learn how to restore bodywork.
I got the hang of MIG/MAG welding but my oxyacetylene needs more practice but at least I did not end up with a piece of metal full of holes
I just need to achieve more penetration
I had great fun though and I'm looking forward to the 4 hours at college next week.
Been thinking of doing something similar for ages... now I'm fully retired I have a tad more time .... to be creative.
Can I ask how where and long is the course ... location ... hours .. and price details etc.
..
I'm attending College in Maidstone one evening a week for around 4 hours.
This week, I was making up a door frame with all the returns folded and ready to weld up and then make a door skin to fit using an English Wheel (for curvature) and then weld it to the frame.
I don't necessarily need to do any of this on my MGB but it is interesting to learn how to make panels and doors
The course runs for a year and was £455.
It's been over a year since I updated this thread :0
Not a lot has happened except me collecting new parts until just recently.
The B is having a new rear axle fitted and a complete front and rear suspension overhaul.
It should be a lot nicer to drive after and I'm looking forward to sorting out a few bits of the bodywork.
I'll post up some pics as I tackle the body over the coming months.
Not a lot has happened except me collecting new parts until just recently.
The B is having a new rear axle fitted and a complete front and rear suspension overhaul.
It should be a lot nicer to drive after and I'm looking forward to sorting out a few bits of the bodywork.
I'll post up some pics as I tackle the body over the coming months.
All the mechanical work has been done.
It's gone off to the Bodyshop now for a complete body restoration & respray.
I've pretty much decided to go for a bumper less racing look with Sebring front & rear valances but keeping standard wings & my new wire wheels.
Whilst its away, I'm completely refurbishing all the seats back to a more original shape for a 1969 car as mine has later seats with headrests which I'm doing away with. I'll have some good headrests & chrome bumpers to sell soon
It's gone off to the Bodyshop now for a complete body restoration & respray.
I've pretty much decided to go for a bumper less racing look with Sebring front & rear valances but keeping standard wings & my new wire wheels.
Whilst its away, I'm completely refurbishing all the seats back to a more original shape for a 1969 car as mine has later seats with headrests which I'm doing away with. I'll have some good headrests & chrome bumpers to sell soon
Good news!
My sills are in great condition and just need a tidy up where the welding when they were previously replaced is a little less than pretty
I will be needing new front wing to bulkhead box section, splash panels, front wings, doorskins, floor pans.
Around £675 worth of body parts from MGOC.
Could be worse!
My sills are in great condition and just need a tidy up where the welding when they were previously replaced is a little less than pretty
I will be needing new front wing to bulkhead box section, splash panels, front wings, doorskins, floor pans.
Around £675 worth of body parts from MGOC.
Could be worse!
Kentish said:
Every panel with any significant rust is being replaced.
The engine is also out for a complete rebuild.
Is a weber carb a worthwhile conversion or are the twin SUs better (if set up properly)?
Webers looked nice and when set up, worked quite well although as you mentioned, well set up Twin SUs will do the job. I used to cruise my three main bearing B-Series MGB at 100 mph on our roads back when such speeds were legal on our major roads and motorways. It was replaced by a five main bearing later car and that did the same. The two mid-late 1970s MGB GTs I owned were lethargic in comparison to those early cars.
Maybe that's why some fellow friends and enthusiasts fitted V8s or T-Series turbocharged Rover engines into their later cars.These are a hoot to drive as can be imagined.
Good luck with the project. I enjoy reading illustrated threads like these.
Webers on MGs ... IIRC the similar ones fitted to the first MG1600 Maestros off the production line in 1983 were prone to fuel vapourisation. Rarely some SU Carb cars I experienced that vapourisation with following a fast hot run on a hot summer's day. Trying to restart soon after hot engine switch off. They sometimes needed time to cool before they would restart. Cures are simple fixes.
Thanks John; I had been toying with the idea of a RV8 conversion seeing as new floorpans are going in but trying to do all that & source a good engine & type 9 box & adaptor on a £2k budget for the engine isn't possible so I'm keeping the 5 bearing standard B series lump & O/D box. It might get up rated a little though (cam, ports, carb jetting etc).
It looks worse in the photos than it actually is.
It is 44 years old and mostly original metal; although one section on the inner wings & both doors have been panelled over with the rusty one still beneath which has accelerated the rust of both panels.
That's all being cut out and replaced properly, spot and seam welded, ground flat, seam sealed, galvanise etch primed, stone chip protected, primed and top coated. All internal sections will be sealed inside with a lance inside the box sections and the access holes drilled at the lowest points t give the secondary benefit of being the lowest point for drainage.
It is 44 years old and mostly original metal; although one section on the inner wings & both doors have been panelled over with the rusty one still beneath which has accelerated the rust of both panels.
That's all being cut out and replaced properly, spot and seam welded, ground flat, seam sealed, galvanise etch primed, stone chip protected, primed and top coated. All internal sections will be sealed inside with a lance inside the box sections and the access holes drilled at the lowest points t give the secondary benefit of being the lowest point for drainage.
Update...
New passenger side floor is in.
Driver side pending!
I also need new chassis rail and floor pan to sill panels as they have holes!
After these are done; the glass is coming out and trim removed ready for paint.
The engine is coming out for a rebuild and unleaded head conversion.
The doors are being re-skinned and the front wings will have new bottom halves.
Then off to the paint shop!
New passenger side floor is in.
Driver side pending!
I also need new chassis rail and floor pan to sill panels as they have holes!
After these are done; the glass is coming out and trim removed ready for paint.
The engine is coming out for a rebuild and unleaded head conversion.
The doors are being re-skinned and the front wings will have new bottom halves.
Then off to the paint shop!
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