SR3 won't start
Discussion
I would have disconnected the plug from the coil pack and put one lead on the correct pin inside the plug, and the other end on the ECU pin assuming that is where the 12v comes from. I'm afraid I don't recall which ECU pin it was. Or if indeed that is where it is fed from. I thought I got the details from SBD's website but I can't see a 992 pinout on there at the moment.
Unfortunately it was four years ago and I don't own the car anymore, so am struggling to help more.
As it's supposed to be +12v on the coil you can just check resistance with the ignition on by using the pin inside the plug and the positive battery connection. That will at least tell you if there is anything to investigate.
Unfortunately it was four years ago and I don't own the car anymore, so am struggling to help more.
As it's supposed to be +12v on the coil you can just check resistance with the ignition on by using the pin inside the plug and the positive battery connection. That will at least tell you if there is anything to investigate.
Ah looking back I see I got the wiring diagram from the Tilling motorsport website.
And it's coming back to me now. The other end of the wire goes back to a relay on the SR3. It was that wire that I replaced.
http://www.tillingmotorsport.com/sitebuilderconten...
Bottom middle of the diagram, wires are connected to the coil at one end and the relays at the other end.
WHT(33) - goes back to an ECU pin, so this is an earth (the ECU grounds the coil to make it fire)
WHT(17) - same
WHT(37) - that makes this one +12v - gotes to a relay
WHT(38) - and this one +12v - goes to a relay
These relays are energised when you switch on the ignition and try and start the engine. So check that they are working too.
And it's coming back to me now. The other end of the wire goes back to a relay on the SR3. It was that wire that I replaced.
http://www.tillingmotorsport.com/sitebuilderconten...
Bottom middle of the diagram, wires are connected to the coil at one end and the relays at the other end.
WHT(33) - goes back to an ECU pin, so this is an earth (the ECU grounds the coil to make it fire)
WHT(17) - same
WHT(37) - that makes this one +12v - gotes to a relay
WHT(38) - and this one +12v - goes to a relay
These relays are energised when you switch on the ignition and try and start the engine. So check that they are working too.
Edited by ric355 on Sunday 21st January 23:42
Hi Rich and all....
Good day for me. !!!!
So I finally got the engine started... checked all the 12+v wires for resistance from relay to coil pack, injectors, ecu loom and test for sparks produce from the coil pack. All in good working order.
Finally, only thing is to replace all 4 spark plugs and boom it start. Woom woom!!
However, idle is rough or maybe is normal. Not sure... Or maybe this is my first time hearing the engine running with no previous experience with a normal busa engine sound from a radical.??
Also, I am wondering if I am burning oil in any of the engine cylinders since there is some white smoke coming out from the exhaust at the beginning. Not sure if it's from the old gas (3 years old). Or burning oil?
At the same time since I am wondering burning oil issue, so I went ahead and took out the Brand Spanking "New" spark plug and found out 3 out of 4 is black already. See attached photo.
What does that mean ? Oil burning ? Or running rich. ? time to do a compression test? Rebuilt engine ?
Any advice I would appreciated.
Well, on the good side, I started the engine.
Thanks again for your help. Especially Josh Smith. He is like " Radicalwikipedia".
Alan
Good day for me. !!!!
So I finally got the engine started... checked all the 12+v wires for resistance from relay to coil pack, injectors, ecu loom and test for sparks produce from the coil pack. All in good working order.
Finally, only thing is to replace all 4 spark plugs and boom it start. Woom woom!!
However, idle is rough or maybe is normal. Not sure... Or maybe this is my first time hearing the engine running with no previous experience with a normal busa engine sound from a radical.??
Also, I am wondering if I am burning oil in any of the engine cylinders since there is some white smoke coming out from the exhaust at the beginning. Not sure if it's from the old gas (3 years old). Or burning oil?
At the same time since I am wondering burning oil issue, so I went ahead and took out the Brand Spanking "New" spark plug and found out 3 out of 4 is black already. See attached photo.
What does that mean ? Oil burning ? Or running rich. ? time to do a compression test? Rebuilt engine ?
Any advice I would appreciated.
Well, on the good side, I started the engine.
Thanks again for your help. Especially Josh Smith. He is like " Radicalwikipedia".
Alan
First thing I would be checking is balance of your throttle bodies and to ensure taphat your TPS sensor is set correctly (if the ECU thinks the throttle is open further than it is it will be putting fuel in)
I would also try to get ECU lead and check sensor readings to ensure one has not gone down.
I would also try to get ECU lead and check sensor readings to ensure one has not gone down.
A properly mapped busa should idle relatively evenly. Last time I had a rough idle it was only running on three cylinders and in my case it turned out to be an injector not firing due to a loose wire in the back of no. 1 injector plug. Check all the exhaust headers are getting hot - touch something damp onto each one and look for a hiss if you don't have a laser thermometer (get one if you haven't they're really useful). If you're brave you can lick your finger and do it that way as the engine is warming up (start from cold!!).
And I note if you have three out of four plugs black, then that further suggests a misfire on the one that isn't black even though there might be a secondary issue causing your plugs to foul.
And I note if you have three out of four plugs black, then that further suggests a misfire on the one that isn't black even though there might be a secondary issue causing your plugs to foul.
Edited by ric355 on Friday 26th January 21:19
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