Looking to buy....advice
Discussion
JayK12 said:
I'll take a look when i get it home. Should collect in a week an abit.
It comes with Avon slicks, and Avon or Hancook wets. First anyone recommend either of these wets over the other? And i read the owners handbook for the RSX and it doesn't have an pressures or setup info for the Avons, do you guys just use the settings from the other tyres?
I can only find the SR3 RSX owners/mechanics/handling guide. Do these exist for the SR3 RS?
Thanks.
If you do a google search for “Radical Owners manuals” you can find several sites that have itIt comes with Avon slicks, and Avon or Hancook wets. First anyone recommend either of these wets over the other? And i read the owners handbook for the RSX and it doesn't have an pressures or setup info for the Avons, do you guys just use the settings from the other tyres?
I can only find the SR3 RSX owners/mechanics/handling guide. Do these exist for the SR3 RS?
Thanks.
Thanks, got it an had a good read!
When i sat in the car i couldn't reach the pedals and sat really low. The seat was all the way back. So when i get the car to mine i will adjust it forward and see how it is. I'm 5'7.
Has anyone made a seat insert using the resin bags such as Schroth indi kit, are they easy enough to do?? How do you know what size bag you need? As said I'm 5'7 32" waist, 68kg. I need lifting abit, and maybe a good amount behind my back and sides.
When i sat in the car i couldn't reach the pedals and sat really low. The seat was all the way back. So when i get the car to mine i will adjust it forward and see how it is. I'm 5'7.
Has anyone made a seat insert using the resin bags such as Schroth indi kit, are they easy enough to do?? How do you know what size bag you need? As said I'm 5'7 32" waist, 68kg. I need lifting abit, and maybe a good amount behind my back and sides.
Thanks Dunc, I'll give the adjustments a go and see how i get on.
I have BJ open trailer that i collect this weekend, does anyone use a car cover whilst transporting on an open trailer or even just a cockpit cover?
Also, from what I have read the wheel nut is 70mm and torque setting 200lbft. Anyone recomment a socket and torque wrench for swapping over wheels?
I have BJ open trailer that i collect this weekend, does anyone use a car cover whilst transporting on an open trailer or even just a cockpit cover?
Also, from what I have read the wheel nut is 70mm and torque setting 200lbft. Anyone recomment a socket and torque wrench for swapping over wheels?
Edited by JayK12 on Thursday 4th April 16:38
I have a feeling that the wheel nut torque recommendation went up from 200 lbft at some point in recent history. Could be wrong though. Also you need to keep the threads clean and the wheel nut face and matching wheel face clean as well.
In terms of overall running and maintenance, you need to follow a race-like regime as it is a race car. So cleanliness is a key starting point. I had an open trailer, but it was hateful. Car got filthy and full of water being towed. Covers were hard to make work too. Then you need a good regime on circuit. A clean of all four corners and a spanner check between each session is ideal. It's amazing how things loosen or crack. It only takes one thing to really ruin your day. A cracked disk or a loose oil line, cracked engine mounts, cracked uprights can cause serous mayhem. With an older car, you will have no idea how old the components are, the manual gives the life of them, but you'll have no idea how old the bits are. It's not a problem per se, but you just need to be vigilant. Getting the motor warm before going out is important and can take ages.
When you get it back after the day, best to do the clean and check as soon as poss as it's all too easy to put it away and not get it out until the next outing!
In answer to the seat question, as you are making an insert, if you use the Schroth indi kit, you'll need a small one. They are ok, but you need to take a lot of care to get it right. It's very easy to want to be higher in the SR3 when you are sitting in it in your garage at home, then you get to the circuit and realise it's all wrong. I prefer to use expanding foam (don't buy it from Demon Thieves, use East Coast Fibreglass supplies or similar). Once you have made it, take tape and a roll of camping foam or similar to circuit then you can hit your seat insert with a hammer or cut it to make is smaller and use the camping foam to pad it out. Depending on the gap between you and the seat you might find that padding with camping foam and tape a better starter than going for a seat insert.
You should have a blast, then realise the SR3 is too fast to make trackdays fun and you will need to go racing
HTH
Bert
In terms of overall running and maintenance, you need to follow a race-like regime as it is a race car. So cleanliness is a key starting point. I had an open trailer, but it was hateful. Car got filthy and full of water being towed. Covers were hard to make work too. Then you need a good regime on circuit. A clean of all four corners and a spanner check between each session is ideal. It's amazing how things loosen or crack. It only takes one thing to really ruin your day. A cracked disk or a loose oil line, cracked engine mounts, cracked uprights can cause serous mayhem. With an older car, you will have no idea how old the components are, the manual gives the life of them, but you'll have no idea how old the bits are. It's not a problem per se, but you just need to be vigilant. Getting the motor warm before going out is important and can take ages.
When you get it back after the day, best to do the clean and check as soon as poss as it's all too easy to put it away and not get it out until the next outing!
In answer to the seat question, as you are making an insert, if you use the Schroth indi kit, you'll need a small one. They are ok, but you need to take a lot of care to get it right. It's very easy to want to be higher in the SR3 when you are sitting in it in your garage at home, then you get to the circuit and realise it's all wrong. I prefer to use expanding foam (don't buy it from Demon Thieves, use East Coast Fibreglass supplies or similar). Once you have made it, take tape and a roll of camping foam or similar to circuit then you can hit your seat insert with a hammer or cut it to make is smaller and use the camping foam to pad it out. Depending on the gap between you and the seat you might find that padding with camping foam and tape a better starter than going for a seat insert.
You should have a blast, then realise the SR3 is too fast to make trackdays fun and you will need to go racing
HTH
Bert
Best buy a gun for the nuts. Its a faf otherwise.
I brought foam kit for seat from jjc race n rally on ebay. I have done 3 now, on my own. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JJC-Race-Rally-Two-Part...
I brought foam kit for seat from jjc race n rally on ebay. I have done 3 now, on my own. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JJC-Race-Rally-Two-Part...
gordonc said:
seen a few disasters with covers fitted to cars when towing mainly ripped to bits and also danger scratching paint .. cockpit cover ud need to fit clips to bodywork !! I towed with open trailer a few times eventually bought an enclosed trailer as car was soaked and dirt everywhere
I did see this cover specifically made for the Radical, so thought it would be a good fit, you can specify if you have dive planes too. I have emailed them seeing if holes for the towing hooks of the hub can be put in. But then also thought about something like this to cover the cockpit. https://www.demon-tweeks.com/carpoint-water-resist...
BertBert said:
I have a feeling that the wheel nut torque recommendation went up from 200 lbft at some point in recent history. Could be wrong though. Also you need to keep the threads clean and the wheel nut face and matching wheel face clean as well.
In terms of overall running and maintenance, you need to follow a race-like regime as it is a race car. So cleanliness is a key starting point. I had an open trailer, but it was hateful. Car got filthy and full of water being towed. Covers were hard to make work too. Then you need a good regime on circuit. A clean of all four corners and a spanner check between each session is ideal. It's amazing how things loosen or crack. It only takes one thing to really ruin your day. A cracked disk or a loose oil line, cracked engine mounts, cracked uprights can cause serous mayhem. With an older car, you will have no idea how old the components are, the manual gives the life of them, but you'll have no idea how old the bits are. It's not a problem per se, but you just need to be vigilant. Getting the motor warm before going out is important and can take ages.
When you get it back after the day, best to do the clean and check as soon as poss as it's all too easy to put it away and not get it out until the next outing!
In answer to the seat question, as you are making an insert, if you use the Schroth indi kit, you'll need a small one. They are ok, but you need to take a lot of care to get it right. It's very easy to want to be higher in the SR3 when you are sitting in it in your garage at home, then you get to the circuit and realise it's all wrong. I prefer to use expanding foam (don't buy it from Demon Thieves, use East Coast Fibreglass supplies or similar). Once you have made it, take tape and a roll of camping foam or similar to circuit then you can hit your seat insert with a hammer or cut it to make is smaller and use the camping foam to pad it out. Depending on the gap between you and the seat you might find that padding with camping foam and tape a better starter than going for a seat insert.
You should have a blast, then realise the SR3 is too fast to make trackdays fun and you will need to go racing
HTH
Bert
Thanks Bert. I did notice in the RSX manual it states 240lbft for the wheel nuts but 200lbfts in the SR3 Gen2 Manual. I've read about keeping the hub and nuts clean and debris free using brake cleaner, fine grade wet and dry etc.In terms of overall running and maintenance, you need to follow a race-like regime as it is a race car. So cleanliness is a key starting point. I had an open trailer, but it was hateful. Car got filthy and full of water being towed. Covers were hard to make work too. Then you need a good regime on circuit. A clean of all four corners and a spanner check between each session is ideal. It's amazing how things loosen or crack. It only takes one thing to really ruin your day. A cracked disk or a loose oil line, cracked engine mounts, cracked uprights can cause serous mayhem. With an older car, you will have no idea how old the components are, the manual gives the life of them, but you'll have no idea how old the bits are. It's not a problem per se, but you just need to be vigilant. Getting the motor warm before going out is important and can take ages.
When you get it back after the day, best to do the clean and check as soon as poss as it's all too easy to put it away and not get it out until the next outing!
In answer to the seat question, as you are making an insert, if you use the Schroth indi kit, you'll need a small one. They are ok, but you need to take a lot of care to get it right. It's very easy to want to be higher in the SR3 when you are sitting in it in your garage at home, then you get to the circuit and realise it's all wrong. I prefer to use expanding foam (don't buy it from Demon Thieves, use East Coast Fibreglass supplies or similar). Once you have made it, take tape and a roll of camping foam or similar to circuit then you can hit your seat insert with a hammer or cut it to make is smaller and use the camping foam to pad it out. Depending on the gap between you and the seat you might find that padding with camping foam and tape a better starter than going for a seat insert.
You should have a blast, then realise the SR3 is too fast to make trackdays fun and you will need to go racing
HTH
Bert
I've read the manual, and also read the mechanics manual for the RSX, is the spanner check you do between sessions? I guess as a newbie I am probably going to be abit lighter on the car for now. The car is full serviced, checked and prepared as I purchased from a dealer, it looks brand new when you take the covers off. It also has an Oil Pre heater which seems an advantage.
Do you put the expanding foam in a bag or something? Is there guide anywhere on how to do this?
JayK12 said:
Chaps, do you strap your cars down from just the rear or all four corners? I've seen plenty of cars being strapped down from just the rear but is it a legal requirement to have all 4 corners strapped down? I don't want to be stopped by VOSA as I'm using an open trailer.
Cheers,
I used to strap mine down at the rear using the inserts in the hubs and some big ratchet straps. I used to also strap just one front wheel with a small ratchet strap just through the alloy and through one of the holes in the trailer, to ensure it didn't slide sideways or lift when bounced over bumps but I'm pretty sure it was unnecessary.Cheers,
in answer to some of your earlier questions, I used to tow on an open trailer and made a cockpit cover for it to keep rain out (yes I added poppers to the body). It worked very well for the cockpit but I was caught out one day having towed it to a track day in the rain it wouldn't start. I messed about with it for a whole morning and then gave up and went home. The following day I discovered the reason it wouldn't start was because the ECU socket was full of water. It was stupidly positioned facing upwards on the bulkhead on the engine bay side, so exposed to the gap in the bodywork between the engine cover and the bit of bodywork behind the seats. Once I dried it out it started up straight way. After that I started taping up the gap before towing, and I'd just pull it off when I got there and retape again before leaving.
You can't beat a covered trailer and I don't know if a full cover would keep the water out but it's better than nothing.
My trailer was quite high off the ground. It was a beaver tail but still probably 18 inches off the ground at the very edge of the beaver tail. This was because it was a wheels under the bed style, which I needed due to width restrictions at home. I had 1.9m ramps for it. The car was impossible to get on and off without additional planks of wood and it was a right pain to deal with. In the end I made some gadgets to help me get it on and off which sped the whole thing up a great deal. I might have a photo of them somewhere.
For towing with an open trailer, make sure you load it with the rear on the nose of the trailer, otherwise the weight will be in the wrong place and it'll start wagging when you get up to speed.
I used to use air tools for the wheel nuts as at the time I don't think there were many high torque battery guns available that weren't massively expensive. I still used to check it with the torque wrench but it was pretty unusual to find the air gun hadn't done a good enough job. I never worried whether it was too tight as I knew what my air gun was capable of. I ran the air jacks on mine too which was great but of course you need to drag an air supply around with you for that.
ric355 said:
JayK12 said:
Chaps, do you strap your cars down from just the rear or all four corners? I've seen plenty of cars being strapped down from just the rear but is it a legal requirement to have all 4 corners strapped down? I don't want to be stopped by VOSA as I'm using an open trailer.
Cheers,
I used to strap mine down at the rear using the inserts in the hubs and some big ratchet straps. I used to also strap just one front wheel with a small ratchet strap just through the alloy and through one of the holes in the trailer, to ensure it didn't slide sideways or lift when bounced over bumps but I'm pretty sure it was unnecessary.Cheers,
in answer to some of your earlier questions, I used to tow on an open trailer and made a cockpit cover for it to keep rain out (yes I added poppers to the body). It worked very well for the cockpit but I was caught out one day having towed it to a track day in the rain it wouldn't start. I messed about with it for a whole morning and then gave up and went home. The following day I discovered the reason it wouldn't start was because the ECU socket was full of water. It was stupidly positioned facing upwards on the bulkhead on the engine bay side, so exposed to the gap in the bodywork between the engine cover and the bit of bodywork behind the seats. Once I dried it out it started up straight way. After that I started taping up the gap before towing, and I'd just pull it off when I got there and retape again before leaving.
You can't beat a covered trailer and I don't know if a full cover would keep the water out but it's better than nothing.
My trailer was quite high off the ground. It was a beaver tail but still probably 18 inches off the ground at the very edge of the beaver tail. This was because it was a wheels under the bed style, which I needed due to width restrictions at home. I had 1.9m ramps for it. The car was impossible to get on and off without additional planks of wood and it was a right pain to deal with. In the end I made some gadgets to help me get it on and off which sped the whole thing up a great deal. I might have a photo of them somewhere.
For towing with an open trailer, make sure you load it with the rear on the nose of the trailer, otherwise the weight will be in the wrong place and it'll start wagging when you get up to speed.
I used to use air tools for the wheel nuts as at the time I don't think there were many high torque battery guns available that weren't massively expensive. I still used to check it with the torque wrench but it was pretty unusual to find the air gun hadn't done a good enough job. I never worried whether it was too tight as I knew what my air gun was capable of. I ran the air jacks on mine too which was great but of course you need to drag an air supply around with you for that.
Cover wise, I've ordered an outdoor cover made for the SR3, its coming with a transport pack so it goes over the cover and ties everything down to stop it flapping etc. I also asked for 2 holes at the rear hubs for the hooks so the strapping remains on the outside of the cover and the cover is snug to the car. I think for the front i could put some straps through the front wheels but not tighten it down alot, I was told you can pull the tracking out if you strap it down from the front and tighten it up.
I've ended up ordering a 70mm socket for the wheel nuts 3/4 drive. Dan at RLM kindly measured up a the wheel nut whilst i was chatting to him and its 70mm, so I can't see any reason why it wont work. Again getting a torque wrench to tighten it and i have a breaker bar to loosen but just deciding if i need an impact gun to crack the wheel nuts off.
I don't have air jacks so was looking to order this jack, it has a reach of 24" is that sufficient to get under the splitter to the jacking point? I think it is but not sure: https://driver61.com/product/motorsport-racing-sho...
Its a learning curve but a very interesting one, and everyone is really helpful
Just looking forward to getting the car home now!JayK12 said:
I've ended up ordering a 70mm socket for the wheel nuts 3/4 drive. Dan at RLM kindly measured up a the wheel nut whilst i was chatting to him and its 70mm, so I can't see any reason why it wont work. Again getting a torque wrench to tighten it and i have a breaker bar to loosen but just deciding if i need an impact gun to crack the wheel nuts off.
I don't have air jacks so was looking to order this jack, it has a reach of 24" is that sufficient to get under the splitter to the jacking point? I think it is but not sure: https://driver61.com/product/motorsport-racing-sho...
Its a learning curve but a very interesting one, and everyone is really helpful Just looking forward to getting the car home now!
I can't recall how long my jack was but I do remember it had to be shoved a long way under the front to reach the correct chassis point. It feels like it might have been longer than 24" reach tbh but someone who still has one in use would be better to comment.I don't have air jacks so was looking to order this jack, it has a reach of 24" is that sufficient to get under the splitter to the jacking point? I think it is but not sure: https://driver61.com/product/motorsport-racing-sho...
Its a learning curve but a very interesting one, and everyone is really helpful
Just looking forward to getting the car home now!With regard to the breaker bar, you might still struggle if you're by yourself because it's difficult to keep the car still while undoing them. Getting them undone is always harder than doing them up, especially if the car is still hot. I used to use a chock under the wheel when torquing them up but but the tyre would still ride up the chock somewhat. This was the main reason I used an air gun as it allowed me to get them off without a struggle.
And don't forget the left hand side of the car is a left hand thread !
ric355 said:
JayK12 said:
I've ended up ordering a 70mm socket for the wheel nuts 3/4 drive. Dan at RLM kindly measured up a the wheel nut whilst i was chatting to him and its 70mm, so I can't see any reason why it wont work. Again getting a torque wrench to tighten it and i have a breaker bar to loosen but just deciding if i need an impact gun to crack the wheel nuts off.
I don't have air jacks so was looking to order this jack, it has a reach of 24" is that sufficient to get under the splitter to the jacking point? I think it is but not sure: https://driver61.com/product/motorsport-racing-sho...
Its a learning curve but a very interesting one, and everyone is really helpful Just looking forward to getting the car home now!
I can't recall how long my jack was but I do remember it had to be shoved a long way under the front to reach the correct chassis point. It feels like it might have been longer than 24" reach tbh but someone who still has one in use would be better to comment.I don't have air jacks so was looking to order this jack, it has a reach of 24" is that sufficient to get under the splitter to the jacking point? I think it is but not sure: https://driver61.com/product/motorsport-racing-sho...
Its a learning curve but a very interesting one, and everyone is really helpful
Just looking forward to getting the car home now!With regard to the breaker bar, you might still struggle if you're by yourself because it's difficult to keep the car still while undoing them. Getting them undone is always harder than doing them up, especially if the car is still hot. I used to use a chock under the wheel when torquing them up but but the tyre would still ride up the chock somewhat. This was the main reason I used an air gun as it allowed me to get them off without a struggle.
And don't forget the left hand side of the car is a left hand thread !
JayK12 said:
Thanks Bert. I did notice in the RSX manual it states 240lbft for the wheel nuts but 200lbfts in the SR3 Gen2 Manual. I've read about keeping the hub and nuts clean and debris free using brake cleaner, fine grade wet and dry etc.
I've read the manual, and also read the mechanics manual for the RSX, is the spanner check you do between sessions? I guess as a newbie I am probably going to be abit lighter on the car for now. The car is full serviced, checked and prepared as I purchased from a dealer, it looks brand new when you take the covers off. It also has an Oil Pre heater which seems an advantage.
Do you put the expanding foam in a bag or something? Is there guide anywhere on how to do this?
Yes, you use a suitable large, heavy duty bin bag or rubbish sac. In terms of volume, I use a cut off plastic milk bottle as the destination to mix into and two Chinese takeaway cartons to measure. Fill the chinese cartons to the same level with the two part mix - about 3/4s. Pour into the milk bottle and mix.I've read the manual, and also read the mechanics manual for the RSX, is the spanner check you do between sessions? I guess as a newbie I am probably going to be abit lighter on the car for now. The car is full serviced, checked and prepared as I purchased from a dealer, it looks brand new when you take the covers off. It also has an Oil Pre heater which seems an advantage.
Do you put the expanding foam in a bag or something? Is there guide anywhere on how to do this?
Make sure the bag is well down behind your back and under your bum if needed. Pour the mix in and sit still! It gets nice and warm. You'll need to hold yourself in position holding the wheel as it sets.
I'd be very happy to come over and help if you are shouting distance of Surrey.
Cheers
Bert
PS I'd always go for a check over between sessions. Purchasing from a dealer is no guarantee at all as to the underlying condition of the car. I'd be super vigilant on the first time out until you know the car. It's a race car. checking over between sessions is just the norm with a race car.
[quote=JayK12]
I've read the manual, and also read the mechanics manual for the RSX, is the spanner check you do between sessions? I guess as a newbie I am probably going to be abit lighter on the car for now. The car is full serviced, checked and prepared as I purchased from a dealer, it looks brand new when you take the covers off. It also has an Oil Pre heater which seems an advantage.
quote]
They are quite simple to run until something goes wrong. I visual check between sessions but prep is done in the Garage between rounds.
Just make sure the oil is up to temp before going out and water doesn't get too hot. Once out, keep an eye out for temps for first lap or two.
2 main questions for a new car,
How many hours on the motor and how many hrs on the GDU. They both break and both are expensive if they do so I would recommend refresh at right time,
I've read the manual, and also read the mechanics manual for the RSX, is the spanner check you do between sessions? I guess as a newbie I am probably going to be abit lighter on the car for now. The car is full serviced, checked and prepared as I purchased from a dealer, it looks brand new when you take the covers off. It also has an Oil Pre heater which seems an advantage.
quote]
They are quite simple to run until something goes wrong. I visual check between sessions but prep is done in the Garage between rounds.
Just make sure the oil is up to temp before going out and water doesn't get too hot. Once out, keep an eye out for temps for first lap or two.
2 main questions for a new car,
How many hours on the motor and how many hrs on the GDU. They both break and both are expensive if they do so I would recommend refresh at right time,
BertBert said:
JayK12 said:
Thanks Bert. I did notice in the RSX manual it states 240lbft for the wheel nuts but 200lbfts in the SR3 Gen2 Manual. I've read about keeping the hub and nuts clean and debris free using brake cleaner, fine grade wet and dry etc.
I've read the manual, and also read the mechanics manual for the RSX, is the spanner check you do between sessions? I guess as a newbie I am probably going to be abit lighter on the car for now. The car is full serviced, checked and prepared as I purchased from a dealer, it looks brand new when you take the covers off. It also has an Oil Pre heater which seems an advantage.
Do you put the expanding foam in a bag or something? Is there guide anywhere on how to do this?
Yes, you use a suitable large, heavy duty bin bag or rubbish sac. In terms of volume, I use a cut off plastic milk bottle as the destination to mix into and two Chinese takeaway cartons to measure. Fill the chinese cartons to the same level with the two part mix - about 3/4s. Pour into the milk bottle and mix.I've read the manual, and also read the mechanics manual for the RSX, is the spanner check you do between sessions? I guess as a newbie I am probably going to be abit lighter on the car for now. The car is full serviced, checked and prepared as I purchased from a dealer, it looks brand new when you take the covers off. It also has an Oil Pre heater which seems an advantage.
Do you put the expanding foam in a bag or something? Is there guide anywhere on how to do this?
Make sure the bag is well down behind your back and under your bum if needed. Pour the mix in and sit still! It gets nice and warm. You'll need to hold yourself in position holding the wheel as it sets.
I'd be very happy to come over and help if you are shouting distance of Surrey.
Cheers
Bert
PS I'd always go for a check over between sessions. Purchasing from a dealer is no guarantee at all as to the underlying condition of the car. I'd be super vigilant on the first time out until you know the car. It's a race car. checking over between sessions is just the norm with a race car.
I'm 5'7, and when i sat in the car i was really low. I dont mind being really low but I might need raising abit. I've seen in the older ones people put actual foam in the bag, would this be ok and then pour the mix into the bag with the foam pads?
Gc285 said:
JayK12 said:
I've read the manual, and also read the mechanics manual for the RSX, is the spanner check you do between sessions? I guess as a newbie I am probably going to be abit lighter on the car for now. The car is full serviced, checked and prepared as I purchased from a dealer, it looks brand new when you take the covers off. It also has an Oil Pre heater which seems an advantage.
quote]
They are quite simple to run until something goes wrong. I visual check between sessions but prep is done in the Garage between rounds.
Just make sure the oil is up to temp before going out and water doesn't get too hot. Once out, keep an eye out for temps for first lap or two.
2 main questions for a new car,
How many hours on the motor and how many hrs on the GDU. They both break and both are expensive if they do so I would recommend refresh at right time,
Hi GC, thanks for this. I know there are 8 hours on the engine, I'm not sure on the GDU but will check. quote]
They are quite simple to run until something goes wrong. I visual check between sessions but prep is done in the Garage between rounds.
Just make sure the oil is up to temp before going out and water doesn't get too hot. Once out, keep an eye out for temps for first lap or two.
2 main questions for a new car,
How many hours on the motor and how many hrs on the GDU. They both break and both are expensive if they do so I would recommend refresh at right time,
Everyone has been really helpful, via here and email etc. Its awesome to be back in the pit lane again!
JayK12 said:
Thanks Bert, really appreciate the offer however I'm in Shropshire so quite far away from you. I have seen this bag which seems like a good option. https://www.msar.co.uk/moulding-kits/msar-hd-x-lar...
I'm 5'7, and when i sat in the car i was really low. I dont mind being really low but I might need raising abit. I've seen in the older ones people put actual foam in the bag, would this be ok and then pour the mix into the bag with the foam pads?
You do feel very low in the cars. But yes, I have put a layer (or two) of camping foam in the bag on the bottom of the seat then poured the foam in. Works pretty well. You should be prepared for it to go wrong before you perfect the technique. But don't overdo the foam. If it froths up and over, it makes a mess that is never clear-up-able! You can always add more foam into a set seat in the bag if it's not come high enough first time around.I'm 5'7, and when i sat in the car i was really low. I dont mind being really low but I might need raising abit. I've seen in the older ones people put actual foam in the bag, would this be ok and then pour the mix into the bag with the foam pads?
Bert
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