V8 Jaguar wont start and sounds like it has no compression?
Discussion
I'm not an expert but the obvious question is had he started it and then stopped it very soon afterwards? That seems to be a common cause of non starting, the car floods apparently. If that is the case, with the engine off, press the accelerator hard (as you would for kickdown) and hold it down whilst turning the engine over for about 30 seconds. Then release the throttle and it should start apparently.
I saved the following advice on my computer a while ago. I hope whoever posted it originally does not mind me putting on here…
" I can’t tell you how many times 308's do this. I was at Jag from 1998 to 2006. When 308's were new, they were being recovered in and we didn’t even let them unload the car, just went over and started them, revved for a bit to clear out and sent straight back to the customer with a bit of advice of how not to do it again. The classic customer phone call was, I got the car out the garage yesterday to wash it, then put it back, it was fine, then the next day it wouldn't start.
IF IT’S ON COLD START ALWAYS CLEAR IT OUT BEFORE YOU SWITCH OFF.
Your car is flooded, nothing more, the bores may be worn, but they wont have gone from starting to none starting over night.
What you need to do is simple (and sorry for going over what’s already been covered)
Charge battery so is full, or attach to jump pack or jump vehicle.
Open the bonnet go to the throttle body and hold it on absolute full throttle, (its easy to say floor the accelerator but with slack in the cable, and the full throttle stop be badly adjusted and you wont actually get the injector cut off you want to happen, so doing it under the bonnet can make all the difference in the world). If you have no assistant, make sure you wind the throttle stop under the accelerator pedal right into the floor first, and floor the pedal.
Have an assistant hold the key in the crank position and tell them no matter what, don’t let go of the key, After about 45 seconds very slowly reduce the throttle position to say 80-90%, you should hear the injectors start clicking (it will be hard over the noise of the starter but should be possible) then modulate between 100% and 80-90% throttle as you hear the engine start to fire.
If you have been cranking for more than say 1 minute 30 secs. Give up and get the plugs out. THEY DO NOT NEED REPLACING, just drying and cleaning. Best thing is a gas soldering iron to burn the fuel off, but if you have not got one, blowing on them should be enough. With the plugs out you want an oil can and 2 squirts in each bore. About 50ml of oil, too little and it wont work, to much and you will be smoking for a week. Before you put the plugs back in, just flick the key so it turns over for 2 to 3 secs. Wipes the oil into the cylinder walls you see, and if you put too much in, fires the residue out the top rather than hydraulicing the engine.
Then plugs back in and repeat the full throttle start up as above. I have never failed to get one going like this. If it doesn't work, then check for spark but I'm sure it will.
And it will smoke like mad when it fires, just keep the revs up, say 3000rpm for a minute. And then go for a blast to clear it out, try to do this on a deserted road, or you will scare innocent motorist and get in trouble with the Law."
" I can’t tell you how many times 308's do this. I was at Jag from 1998 to 2006. When 308's were new, they were being recovered in and we didn’t even let them unload the car, just went over and started them, revved for a bit to clear out and sent straight back to the customer with a bit of advice of how not to do it again. The classic customer phone call was, I got the car out the garage yesterday to wash it, then put it back, it was fine, then the next day it wouldn't start.
IF IT’S ON COLD START ALWAYS CLEAR IT OUT BEFORE YOU SWITCH OFF.
Your car is flooded, nothing more, the bores may be worn, but they wont have gone from starting to none starting over night.
What you need to do is simple (and sorry for going over what’s already been covered)
Charge battery so is full, or attach to jump pack or jump vehicle.
Open the bonnet go to the throttle body and hold it on absolute full throttle, (its easy to say floor the accelerator but with slack in the cable, and the full throttle stop be badly adjusted and you wont actually get the injector cut off you want to happen, so doing it under the bonnet can make all the difference in the world). If you have no assistant, make sure you wind the throttle stop under the accelerator pedal right into the floor first, and floor the pedal.
Have an assistant hold the key in the crank position and tell them no matter what, don’t let go of the key, After about 45 seconds very slowly reduce the throttle position to say 80-90%, you should hear the injectors start clicking (it will be hard over the noise of the starter but should be possible) then modulate between 100% and 80-90% throttle as you hear the engine start to fire.
If you have been cranking for more than say 1 minute 30 secs. Give up and get the plugs out. THEY DO NOT NEED REPLACING, just drying and cleaning. Best thing is a gas soldering iron to burn the fuel off, but if you have not got one, blowing on them should be enough. With the plugs out you want an oil can and 2 squirts in each bore. About 50ml of oil, too little and it wont work, to much and you will be smoking for a week. Before you put the plugs back in, just flick the key so it turns over for 2 to 3 secs. Wipes the oil into the cylinder walls you see, and if you put too much in, fires the residue out the top rather than hydraulicing the engine.
Then plugs back in and repeat the full throttle start up as above. I have never failed to get one going like this. If it doesn't work, then check for spark but I'm sure it will.
And it will smoke like mad when it fires, just keep the revs up, say 3000rpm for a minute. And then go for a blast to clear it out, try to do this on a deserted road, or you will scare innocent motorist and get in trouble with the Law."
pzero64 said:
I saved the following advice on my computer a while ago. I hope whoever posted it originally does not mind me putting on here…
" I can’t tell you how many times 308's do this. I was at Jag from 1998 to 2006. When 308's were new, they were being recovered in and we didn’t even let them unload the car, just went over and started them, revved for a bit to clear out and sent straight back to the customer with a bit of advice of how not to do it again. The classic customer phone call was, I got the car out the garage yesterday to wash it, then put it back, it was fine, then the next day it wouldn't start.
IF IT’S ON COLD START ALWAYS CLEAR IT OUT BEFORE YOU SWITCH OFF.
Your car is flooded, nothing more, the bores may be worn, but they wont have gone from starting to none starting over night.
What you need to do is simple (and sorry for going over what’s already been covered)
Charge battery so is full, or attach to jump pack or jump vehicle.
Open the bonnet go to the throttle body and hold it on absolute full throttle, (its easy to say floor the accelerator but with slack in the cable, and the full throttle stop be badly adjusted and you wont actually get the injector cut off you want to happen, so doing it under the bonnet can make all the difference in the world). If you have no assistant, make sure you wind the throttle stop under the accelerator pedal right into the floor first, and floor the pedal.
Have an assistant hold the key in the crank position and tell them no matter what, don’t let go of the key, After about 45 seconds very slowly reduce the throttle position to say 80-90%, you should hear the injectors start clicking (it will be hard over the noise of the starter but should be possible) then modulate between 100% and 80-90% throttle as you hear the engine start to fire.
If you have been cranking for more than say 1 minute 30 secs. Give up and get the plugs out. THEY DO NOT NEED REPLACING, just drying and cleaning. Best thing is a gas soldering iron to burn the fuel off, but if you have not got one, blowing on them should be enough. With the plugs out you want an oil can and 2 squirts in each bore. About 50ml of oil, too little and it wont work, to much and you will be smoking for a week. Before you put the plugs back in, just flick the key so it turns over for 2 to 3 secs. Wipes the oil into the cylinder walls you see, and if you put too much in, fires the residue out the top rather than hydraulicing the engine.
Then plugs back in and repeat the full throttle start up as above. I have never failed to get one going like this. If it doesn't work, then check for spark but I'm sure it will.
And it will smoke like mad when it fires, just keep the revs up, say 3000rpm for a minute. And then go for a blast to clear it out, try to do this on a deserted road, or you will scare innocent motorist and get in trouble with the Law."
Sound advise there, it sould be I wrote it." I can’t tell you how many times 308's do this. I was at Jag from 1998 to 2006. When 308's were new, they were being recovered in and we didn’t even let them unload the car, just went over and started them, revved for a bit to clear out and sent straight back to the customer with a bit of advice of how not to do it again. The classic customer phone call was, I got the car out the garage yesterday to wash it, then put it back, it was fine, then the next day it wouldn't start.
IF IT’S ON COLD START ALWAYS CLEAR IT OUT BEFORE YOU SWITCH OFF.
Your car is flooded, nothing more, the bores may be worn, but they wont have gone from starting to none starting over night.
What you need to do is simple (and sorry for going over what’s already been covered)
Charge battery so is full, or attach to jump pack or jump vehicle.
Open the bonnet go to the throttle body and hold it on absolute full throttle, (its easy to say floor the accelerator but with slack in the cable, and the full throttle stop be badly adjusted and you wont actually get the injector cut off you want to happen, so doing it under the bonnet can make all the difference in the world). If you have no assistant, make sure you wind the throttle stop under the accelerator pedal right into the floor first, and floor the pedal.
Have an assistant hold the key in the crank position and tell them no matter what, don’t let go of the key, After about 45 seconds very slowly reduce the throttle position to say 80-90%, you should hear the injectors start clicking (it will be hard over the noise of the starter but should be possible) then modulate between 100% and 80-90% throttle as you hear the engine start to fire.
If you have been cranking for more than say 1 minute 30 secs. Give up and get the plugs out. THEY DO NOT NEED REPLACING, just drying and cleaning. Best thing is a gas soldering iron to burn the fuel off, but if you have not got one, blowing on them should be enough. With the plugs out you want an oil can and 2 squirts in each bore. About 50ml of oil, too little and it wont work, to much and you will be smoking for a week. Before you put the plugs back in, just flick the key so it turns over for 2 to 3 secs. Wipes the oil into the cylinder walls you see, and if you put too much in, fires the residue out the top rather than hydraulicing the engine.
Then plugs back in and repeat the full throttle start up as above. I have never failed to get one going like this. If it doesn't work, then check for spark but I'm sure it will.
And it will smoke like mad when it fires, just keep the revs up, say 3000rpm for a minute. And then go for a blast to clear it out, try to do this on a deserted road, or you will scare innocent motorist and get in trouble with the Law."
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
fast cars said:
tried cranking as recommended but no joy so guess its plugs out next, what is the significance of squirting oil down the plug holes? Is it something to do with compression, and turning over like a v12 - a constant whir?
Engine compression is maintained by a very thin coating of oil on the bores which forms a seal between the top two piston rings and the bore wall. It sound to me like excess fuel has washed this oil coating from the bores. A drop of engine oil down each plug hole will restore compression and providing the engine is otherwise sound it should then start.I'd suggest you follow TT's advice to the letter and add it may help to remove the fuel pump fuse too during initial cranking. Long cranking times are very hard on the starter motor and it'll really spoil your day if you burn it out.
Tame Technician said:
Excellent advice/info and very much appreciated.Gassing Station | Jaguar | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff