F Type switchable exhaust
Discussion
EK993 said:
OP - if you aren't concerned about putting the car into "quiet" mode, you can also pull the fuse for the active exhaust on a car that doesn't have the cabin switch - this will leave the valves open permanently.
This is very much of interest to me, you can do exactly the same with the Aston martin vantage v8, simply unplug fuse 22 and the exhaust stays open. I found a guy on eBay who was manufacturing a remote switch which essentially was a device that plugs into the fuse board the receives a remote signal from a key fob. You then simply press the unlock button to open the exhaust and the lock button to put it into its standard location. Does anyone know if this same system might be available for the Jaguar, and has anyone got any advice as to the fuse that needs to be removed and how you go about it?Am I right in saying that this only works for the active exhaust and not the standard basic exhaust on the 2013 non "S" cars.
Also does anyone know if there is a way of checking the specification for a car if you have the chassis number? I've done this multiple times with BMW purchases and it's really easy to find out exactly what was fitted to the car as far as options go.
JetskiJezz said:
This is very much of interest to me, you can do exactly the same with the Aston martin vantage v8, simply unplug fuse 22 and the exhaust stays open. I found a guy on eBay who was manufacturing a remote switch which essentially was a device that plugs into the fuse board the receives a remote signal from a key fob. You then simply press the unlock button to open the exhaust and the lock button to put it into its standard location. Does anyone know if this same system might be available for the Jaguar, and has anyone got any advice as to the fuse that needs to be removed and how you go about it?
Am I right in saying that this only works for the active exhaust and not the standard basic exhaust on the 2013 non "S" cars.
Also does anyone know if there is a way of checking the specification for a car if you have the chassis number? I've done this multiple times with BMW purchases and it's really easy to find out exactly what was fitted to the car as far as options go.
The owners manual identifies the fuse for the active exhaust - just go into the fuse box and pull it.Am I right in saying that this only works for the active exhaust and not the standard basic exhaust on the 2013 non "S" cars.
Also does anyone know if there is a way of checking the specification for a car if you have the chassis number? I've done this multiple times with BMW purchases and it's really easy to find out exactly what was fitted to the car as far as options go.
It will only work on an active exhaust equipped car - as obviously a non active exhaust car has no valves to open / close therefore there wouldn't be a fuse to control it.
EK993 said:
The owners manual identifies the fuse for the active exhaust - just go into the fuse box and pull it.
It will only work on an active exhaust equipped car - as obviously a non active exhaust car has no valves to open / close therefore there wouldn't be a fuse to control it.
Thank you very much, that really is interesting.It will only work on an active exhaust equipped car - as obviously a non active exhaust car has no valves to open / close therefore there wouldn't be a fuse to control it.
The remote switch that I have installed on the Aston essentially plugs into the fuse location and replaces the fuse to basically switch it on and off, so in theory you can easily retrofit the switch to the active exhaust by the sounds of things.
Right , having done a lot of research, including speaking to dealers, central Jag and then a bit of inside knowledge in Jag this is my understanding re retrofit of exhaust switch (to V6S or V8S) :-
- Jag will exclude parts of loom for switch for exhaust if not specified as part of order
- to retrofit means a large amount of work to strip car back to loom
- no dealer has come back to me with a quote (since original £400'ish quote) ...get the feeling they don't want to do it
- with switch activated , software injects extra fuel on over runs to create pops, bangs etc .
- can't see how pulling fuse can accommodate last point
- some dealers are getting picky buying cars that haven't got switch.
Overall too much hassle for me, so bought a car with switch in place
Note the above is my understanding, so please do your own research to confirm.
- Jag will exclude parts of loom for switch for exhaust if not specified as part of order
- to retrofit means a large amount of work to strip car back to loom
- no dealer has come back to me with a quote (since original £400'ish quote) ...get the feeling they don't want to do it
- with switch activated , software injects extra fuel on over runs to create pops, bangs etc .
- can't see how pulling fuse can accommodate last point
- some dealers are getting picky buying cars that haven't got switch.
Overall too much hassle for me, so bought a car with switch in place
Note the above is my understanding, so please do your own research to confirm.
GTD40 said:
Right , having done a lot of research, including speaking to dealers, central Jag and then a bit of inside knowledge in Jag this is my understanding re retrofit of exhaust switch (to V6S or V8S) :-
- Jag will exclude parts of loom for switch for exhaust if not specified as part of order
- to retrofit means a large amount of work to strip car back to loom
- no dealer has come back to me with a quote (since original £400'ish quote) ...get the feeling they don't want to do it
- with switch activated , software injects extra fuel on over runs to create pops, bangs etc .
- can't see how pulling fuse can accommodate last point
- some dealers are getting picky buying cars that haven't got switch.
Overall too much hassle for me, so bought a car with switch in place
Note the above is my understanding, so please do your own research to confirm.
Pulling the fuse has exactly the same effect as activating the cabin switch - I know because I tried it to see what would happen. - Jag will exclude parts of loom for switch for exhaust if not specified as part of order
- to retrofit means a large amount of work to strip car back to loom
- no dealer has come back to me with a quote (since original £400'ish quote) ...get the feeling they don't want to do it
- with switch activated , software injects extra fuel on over runs to create pops, bangs etc .
- can't see how pulling fuse can accommodate last point
- some dealers are getting picky buying cars that haven't got switch.
Overall too much hassle for me, so bought a car with switch in place
Note the above is my understanding, so please do your own research to confirm.
EK993 said:
Pulling the fuse has exactly the same effect as activating the cabin switch - I know because I tried it to see what would happen.
Yep, I pulled the fused a couple of months back and it sounds so much better. A little droney on long journeys but easy enough to put it back in. It sounds much better for general driving IMHOJetskiJezz said:
Sorry guys, just repeat my previous question. Is anyone have a retro fit switch as noted above - I would love to know a bit more about exact costs and how this would work, so if anyone could shed any light onto this I would be really grateful.
I did it myself for about £2.50!!If your car has the ACTIVE exhaust (check for valves on the rear silencer) but no switch on the console, then all you need to do is tag into the fuse under the bonnet that powers the solenoid. Wire to your own switch (I fitted a rocker switch under the dash on drivers side) Fit an inline fuse.
Hey presto, works a treat, and its even better than factory because it does not default to valves closed each time you start up!
I could not believe how simple it was!
I will post the fuse number when I get chance to have a look.
GarethR said:
JetskiJezz said:
Sorry guys, just repeat my previous question. Is anyone have a retro fit switch as noted above - I would love to know a bit more about exact costs and how this would work, so if anyone could shed any light onto this I would be really grateful.
I did it myself for about £2.50!!If your car has the ACTIVE exhaust (check for valves on the rear silencer) but no switch on the console, then all you need to do is tag into the fuse under the bonnet that powers the solenoid. Wire to your own switch (I fitted a rocker switch under the dash on drivers side) Fit an inline fuse.
Hey presto, works a treat, and its even better than factory because it does not default to valves closed each time you start up!
I could not believe how simple it was!
I will post the fuse number when I get chance to have a look.
I can just pull the fuse but id like the option to open and close it
alexmorrissey0 said:
Because its the active exhaust. So even when ‘open’ it closed below 3000revs then gradually opens as you get higher... so not fully open all the time
There are technical reasons its not open all the time on the P300, the 4cyl is more back pressure sensitive than the V6S, so opening below 3000rpm actually hurts lag and throttle response, and from memory there are likely boom issues in that region too. Believe the latest Rdynamic models are now switchable thoughGassing Station | Jaguar | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff