Considering a FFRR Vouge TDV8 - advice
Discussion
Evening all,
Having bought a C350 fairly recently rather pleasingly my wife is expecting and in Coupe guise the Mercedes simply won't do.
I've always wanted a FFRR and feel that this is the right car for us (me).
Couple of questions and ALL opinions are welcome;
1. Considering a diesel - is it wise with the governments current 'ideas' on diesels over the next few years?
2. TDV8 3.6 - anything to be careful of / or look out for?
3. A Vouge with winter pack and Harmon & Kardon etc anything else that I should be looking out for?
4. Going for a post face lift 2010 model.
5. Do I want / need a tow bar? Did they come standard?
6. Serviceable items? Anything to be careful of?
7. In general, anything I should look out for?
Thank you in advance and feel free to give all / any opinions.
Having bought a C350 fairly recently rather pleasingly my wife is expecting and in Coupe guise the Mercedes simply won't do.
I've always wanted a FFRR and feel that this is the right car for us (me).
Couple of questions and ALL opinions are welcome;
1. Considering a diesel - is it wise with the governments current 'ideas' on diesels over the next few years?
2. TDV8 3.6 - anything to be careful of / or look out for?
3. A Vouge with winter pack and Harmon & Kardon etc anything else that I should be looking out for?
4. Going for a post face lift 2010 model.
5. Do I want / need a tow bar? Did they come standard?
6. Serviceable items? Anything to be careful of?
7. In general, anything I should look out for?
Thank you in advance and feel free to give all / any opinions.
Hi,
I bought a 2012 Petrol one - great car.
I would consider the petrol one if you do relatively normal miles around town - we fill up once a month and do around 400 miles on a tank
It was from a dealer and have kept the warranty going, well worth it as the repair bills are big if anything goes wrong.
Had the water pump and alternator replaced, but other than that it has been mostly fine
I bought a 2012 Petrol one - great car.
I would consider the petrol one if you do relatively normal miles around town - we fill up once a month and do around 400 miles on a tank
It was from a dealer and have kept the warranty going, well worth it as the repair bills are big if anything goes wrong.
Had the water pump and alternator replaced, but other than that it has been mostly fine
Two suggestions, OP:
1) search online for https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gl51reRXxgE
2) head over to FullFat Range Rover website, http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/ it's a wealth of information and very friendly.
1) search online for https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gl51reRXxgE
2) head over to FullFat Range Rover website, http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/ it's a wealth of information and very friendly.
If you’re looking at a post 2010 facelift I’d try and stretch to the 4.4 TDV8 if you can, more power,better economy, more reliable 8 speed autobox and as far as I know they don’t suffer from blown turbos as much?.
If I were going to come back to Land Rover ownership, it’s what I’d go for.
If I were going to come back to Land Rover ownership, it’s what I’d go for.
Joe5y said:
Evening all,
Having bought a C350 fairly recently rather pleasingly my wife is expecting and in Coupe guise the Mercedes simply won't do.
I've always wanted a FFRR and feel that this is the right car for us (me).
Couple of questions and ALL opinions are welcome;
1. Considering a diesel - is it wise with the governments current 'ideas' on diesels over the next few years?
2. TDV8 3.6 - anything to be careful of / or look out for?
common issues:
http://www.kmotors.co.uk/vehicles/range-rover-l322...
Check all the electrics - make sure the auto setting on the climate control is working - the vent sensor gets clogged with dust so a can of air spray can clear it, if it doesn't then the blend units might need looking at.
if fitted cameras can blue screen - usually faulty cables, cheap to buy but fiddly to fix
The DPF needs a good clean cycle every 500 miles, if you drive it a lot around town then you neec to run it at above 50mph for 20-30 minutes to run it - a bit of right foot and use of the manual gearbox to spin the turbos up to full temp helps.
Turbo failure is usually caused by neglect - EGR valves and split hoses if not corrected can cause premature turbo failure. keep them inspected, change oil every 6k regardless and use quality fuel like vpower or additives. The TDV8 runs like a asthmatic dog on asda diesel in my experience, is much smoother on premium diesel
The battery has a hard life - make sure you always lock it to shut down all the computers properly. They aren't that expensive to replace so consider it a regular service item.
The alternator also is a weakspot, put a multimeter on it to make sure it is charging properly.
Car needs a full gearbox and transmission flush and change around 80k to prevent future borkage.
The 4.4 is slightly more economical but lacks the 3.6 low down grunt - pay your money and take your choice, the 2010 on TDV8 is probably one of the best sorted L322's.
3. A Vouge with winter pack and Harmon & Kardon etc anything else that I should be looking out for?
Harmon kardon logic 7 standard on vogue, higher spec HD system is a rare option
The 'vision pack' - surround cameras, blindspot assist and high beam assist.
4. Going for a post face lift 2010 model.
Has the LCD dash and keyless start - a blessing because it looks modern, a nightmare when the battery dies.
5. Do I want / need a tow bar? Did they come standard?
It depends if you are going to tow - I'd avoid buying one with one fitted as it could have had a hard life.
6. Serviceable items? Anything to be careful of?
service list:
http://www.kmotors.co.uk/range-rover-servicing/
7. In general, anything I should look out for?
Try and buy a car that has had a cossetted life with as few owners as possible. 22 inch rims look good but can give the suspension a hard time and brake things. Check the tyres - aftermarket rims can end up on terrible budget jobs and pirelli scorpions are up to 240 a corner for 22's to replace.
Check the diesel misfuel flap in the filler neck - they break easily and are a pain to fix and make refuelling a nightmare - there should be a yellow widget in the spare tyre well with the jack, stick a petrol can nozzle into the filler until it deploys, then use the widget to put it back in place - if it diesn't retract properly or sticks out then get the garage to fix it as it can involve removing the tank neck and is expensive.
Be careful of after market fitted alloys that aren't oem - they have been known to fracture and buckle. Authentic overfinch items are stamped as are LR - don't risk pattern wheels.
Overall it is a very solid reliable tank of a thing when looked after properly. Its an incredible winter machine and makes you feel very safe, rarely do other drivers argue with it as it is an tank compared with most cars, yet is incredibly good at wrapping around you and its squared off box shape makes it surprisingly easy to drive in traffic, the mirrors are hige, windows give good visibility - the blind spot assist works well. Just adjust your driving - high CoG and weight means she doesn't like to be thrown into corners and hard braking will remind you that you are stopping near 2.7 tonnes.
Buy the best one you can afford, generally a normal miles car that has had plenty of life on the motorway will throw up less issues than a low miler used round town. Don't buy without a decent SH. Most warranties are as good as worthless for it at that age as almost everything on it will be considered 'wear and tear' including the turbos. If the turbos go its about a 3k job at a specialist, but its rarer than people claim - faulty units usually die quicker so the main culprit now is EGR/hoses neglect stressing them or poor oil maintenance. Gearbox and transmission fluid changes at around 80k will usually avoid later borkage, so most of the 'big problems' can be avoided with preventative maintenance from a good specialist. Most of the factory bred issues should have been solved under warranty period.
Fuel consumption isn't terrible - low of 22 mpg in heavy traffic to best of 32 on a long 55 mph run with an average of 25. Insurance rates were same as my Mercedes E350 - NFU tend to do the best premiums generally.
Fixed sidesteps are a big help with access, tinted windows are a big help as it has a big glass house.
Thank you in advance and feel free to give all / any opinions.
Having bought a C350 fairly recently rather pleasingly my wife is expecting and in Coupe guise the Mercedes simply won't do.
I've always wanted a FFRR and feel that this is the right car for us (me).
Couple of questions and ALL opinions are welcome;
1. Considering a diesel - is it wise with the governments current 'ideas' on diesels over the next few years?
2. TDV8 3.6 - anything to be careful of / or look out for?
common issues:
http://www.kmotors.co.uk/vehicles/range-rover-l322...
Check all the electrics - make sure the auto setting on the climate control is working - the vent sensor gets clogged with dust so a can of air spray can clear it, if it doesn't then the blend units might need looking at.
if fitted cameras can blue screen - usually faulty cables, cheap to buy but fiddly to fix
The DPF needs a good clean cycle every 500 miles, if you drive it a lot around town then you neec to run it at above 50mph for 20-30 minutes to run it - a bit of right foot and use of the manual gearbox to spin the turbos up to full temp helps.
Turbo failure is usually caused by neglect - EGR valves and split hoses if not corrected can cause premature turbo failure. keep them inspected, change oil every 6k regardless and use quality fuel like vpower or additives. The TDV8 runs like a asthmatic dog on asda diesel in my experience, is much smoother on premium diesel
The battery has a hard life - make sure you always lock it to shut down all the computers properly. They aren't that expensive to replace so consider it a regular service item.
The alternator also is a weakspot, put a multimeter on it to make sure it is charging properly.
Car needs a full gearbox and transmission flush and change around 80k to prevent future borkage.
The 4.4 is slightly more economical but lacks the 3.6 low down grunt - pay your money and take your choice, the 2010 on TDV8 is probably one of the best sorted L322's.
3. A Vouge with winter pack and Harmon & Kardon etc anything else that I should be looking out for?
Harmon kardon logic 7 standard on vogue, higher spec HD system is a rare option
The 'vision pack' - surround cameras, blindspot assist and high beam assist.
4. Going for a post face lift 2010 model.
Has the LCD dash and keyless start - a blessing because it looks modern, a nightmare when the battery dies.
5. Do I want / need a tow bar? Did they come standard?
It depends if you are going to tow - I'd avoid buying one with one fitted as it could have had a hard life.
6. Serviceable items? Anything to be careful of?
service list:
http://www.kmotors.co.uk/range-rover-servicing/
7. In general, anything I should look out for?
Try and buy a car that has had a cossetted life with as few owners as possible. 22 inch rims look good but can give the suspension a hard time and brake things. Check the tyres - aftermarket rims can end up on terrible budget jobs and pirelli scorpions are up to 240 a corner for 22's to replace.
Check the diesel misfuel flap in the filler neck - they break easily and are a pain to fix and make refuelling a nightmare - there should be a yellow widget in the spare tyre well with the jack, stick a petrol can nozzle into the filler until it deploys, then use the widget to put it back in place - if it diesn't retract properly or sticks out then get the garage to fix it as it can involve removing the tank neck and is expensive.
Be careful of after market fitted alloys that aren't oem - they have been known to fracture and buckle. Authentic overfinch items are stamped as are LR - don't risk pattern wheels.
Overall it is a very solid reliable tank of a thing when looked after properly. Its an incredible winter machine and makes you feel very safe, rarely do other drivers argue with it as it is an tank compared with most cars, yet is incredibly good at wrapping around you and its squared off box shape makes it surprisingly easy to drive in traffic, the mirrors are hige, windows give good visibility - the blind spot assist works well. Just adjust your driving - high CoG and weight means she doesn't like to be thrown into corners and hard braking will remind you that you are stopping near 2.7 tonnes.
Buy the best one you can afford, generally a normal miles car that has had plenty of life on the motorway will throw up less issues than a low miler used round town. Don't buy without a decent SH. Most warranties are as good as worthless for it at that age as almost everything on it will be considered 'wear and tear' including the turbos. If the turbos go its about a 3k job at a specialist, but its rarer than people claim - faulty units usually die quicker so the main culprit now is EGR/hoses neglect stressing them or poor oil maintenance. Gearbox and transmission fluid changes at around 80k will usually avoid later borkage, so most of the 'big problems' can be avoided with preventative maintenance from a good specialist. Most of the factory bred issues should have been solved under warranty period.
Fuel consumption isn't terrible - low of 22 mpg in heavy traffic to best of 32 on a long 55 mph run with an average of 25. Insurance rates were same as my Mercedes E350 - NFU tend to do the best premiums generally.
Fixed sidesteps are a big help with access, tinted windows are a big help as it has a big glass house.
Thank you in advance and feel free to give all / any opinions.
Just get one...
You will never regret it and it will be an awful lot of fun... just be very prepared for random £1000 repair bills...
May I revert to Harry's Garage.. . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gl51reRXxgE
I would be rather inclined to go towards petrol...we currently run a 3.6 TDV8 Facelift... which I think is great... but a petrol one will be next as part of our ongoing diesel free program.
Colour combinations are quite subjective, I know... But personally I think Green, Dark Blue, Brown or Grey are the colours to go for, paired with sand or beige interiors..
You will never regret it and it will be an awful lot of fun... just be very prepared for random £1000 repair bills...
May I revert to Harry's Garage.. . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gl51reRXxgE
I would be rather inclined to go towards petrol...we currently run a 3.6 TDV8 Facelift... which I think is great... but a petrol one will be next as part of our ongoing diesel free program.
Colour combinations are quite subjective, I know... But personally I think Green, Dark Blue, Brown or Grey are the colours to go for, paired with sand or beige interiors..
That you for all help and advice.
I've officially paid the deposit and am due to collect on Thursday subject to a 2nd test drive (already had one) and checking everything out.
This is the car;
(The wheels are not to everyone's taste and I'm still undecided but they are genuine RS2 Kahn alloys).
I've officially paid the deposit and am due to collect on Thursday subject to a 2nd test drive (already had one) and checking everything out.
This is the car;
(The wheels are not to everyone's taste and I'm still undecided but they are genuine RS2 Kahn alloys).
That's what I thought and went especially for that reason.
But it also means they spend a long time sat in their vehicles for the miles. The bodywork was as per most ex Police, scuffed and scratched, as was the interior. There was also an oil leak/weep from what I assume was the transfer box.
I also viewed at night so assume it would look worse in daylight. Being sold as seen without test drive I thought £10k was enough.
But it also means they spend a long time sat in their vehicles for the miles. The bodywork was as per most ex Police, scuffed and scratched, as was the interior. There was also an oil leak/weep from what I assume was the transfer box.
I also viewed at night so assume it would look worse in daylight. Being sold as seen without test drive I thought £10k was enough.
Hello mate,
I can only say if you are buying one of these I hope your bank account is full, this car is likely to be a massive drain on your resources.
I purchased a Westminster (2012 4.4 L322 diesel) with an Over Finch kit on it 20th Feb 2017, it has already had the EGR valve changed and now only two weeks ago both turbo chargers and the lube oil pump failed 29hrs labour and 5k on parts.
Then there has been consumables tyres, brakes, electrical, oil leaks etc the list goes on and on £37000 I paid for it and this is the best bit when I bought it, it had 49500 miles on it and now it has 53500 miles on it. So 4000 miles I have done in this vehicle and it has cost me a fortune.
If I was you and could choose again I certainly would not choose Range Rover, great looking car great comfort but mechanically and electrically very shabby to say the least
I can only say if you are buying one of these I hope your bank account is full, this car is likely to be a massive drain on your resources.
I purchased a Westminster (2012 4.4 L322 diesel) with an Over Finch kit on it 20th Feb 2017, it has already had the EGR valve changed and now only two weeks ago both turbo chargers and the lube oil pump failed 29hrs labour and 5k on parts.
Then there has been consumables tyres, brakes, electrical, oil leaks etc the list goes on and on £37000 I paid for it and this is the best bit when I bought it, it had 49500 miles on it and now it has 53500 miles on it. So 4000 miles I have done in this vehicle and it has cost me a fortune.
If I was you and could choose again I certainly would not choose Range Rover, great looking car great comfort but mechanically and electrically very shabby to say the least
Mick1ohara, if you paid £37k for a 5 year old Westminster then you paid too much, Overfinch kit or not.
Here's an alternative: I bought a 2012 TDV8 Vogue last year with 51k on the clock. I paid £23k, and it has been faultless. I took the precaution of checking its previous service history, including when tyres, pads, discs had last been replaced.
Mick1ohara, if you changed pads and discs and have only done 4000 miles then they must have been shot at the time of purchase.
Moral of the tale: check any RR's history, speak to previous owner(s) and make sure you've got paperwork - don't rely on stamps in a service book. If you spend £37k on a five year old complex car, maybe get a good indy to check it over before parting with cash. Whatever make of car!
Here's an alternative: I bought a 2012 TDV8 Vogue last year with 51k on the clock. I paid £23k, and it has been faultless. I took the precaution of checking its previous service history, including when tyres, pads, discs had last been replaced.
Mick1ohara, if you changed pads and discs and have only done 4000 miles then they must have been shot at the time of purchase.
Moral of the tale: check any RR's history, speak to previous owner(s) and make sure you've got paperwork - don't rely on stamps in a service book. If you spend £37k on a five year old complex car, maybe get a good indy to check it over before parting with cash. Whatever make of car!
Walter Sobchak said:
If you’re looking at a post 2010 facelift I’d try and stretch to the 4.4 TDV8 if you can, more power,better economy, more reliable 8 speed autobox and as far as I know they don’t suffer from blown turbos as much?.
If I were going to come back to Land Rover ownership, it’s what I’d go for.
If I were going to come back to Land Rover ownership, it’s what I’d go for.
Vogue SE in the above configuration.Gassing Station | Land Rover | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff