Golf R engine blown
Discussion
Beanie said:
We will see won't we
I've got 8k MiA, I'm quite determined
Hand on heart, I hope you succeed. And, given the car is new, I do understand that you had it recovered and felt, it’s a right fag taking it away for another look elsewhere. But I doubt the dealer is corrupt in that he opened the engine to do the work and found no serious problems. The how it happened is down to their experience. I've got 8k MiA, I'm quite determined
Edited by Beanie on Sunday 15th October 20:28
Beanie said:
Which is my point.
I dont think they are corrupt, however they didn't open it up and draw a definitive conclusion
They made an assumption
I think your problem is that the only realistic alternative scenario to the engine being over-revved is the conspiracy theory one where the ECU sets the overrev code if it detects the engine is borked. I dont think they are corrupt, however they didn't open it up and draw a definitive conclusion
They made an assumption
There's no actual accelerometer for overevs. The ECU just measure how fast the crank (or cam) rotates based on time taken per rotation, using a simple magnetic sensor.
silentbrown said:
Beanie said:
Which is my point.
I dont think they are corrupt, however they didn't open it up and draw a definitive conclusion
They made an assumption
I think your problem is that the only realistic alternative scenario to the engine being over-revved is the conspiracy theory one where the ECU sets the overrev code if it detects the engine is borked. I dont think they are corrupt, however they didn't open it up and draw a definitive conclusion
They made an assumption
There's no actual accelerometer for overevs. The ECU just measure how fast the crank (or cam) rotates based on time taken per rotation, using a simple magnetic sensor.
And it was opened to effect the fix. The damage was surely evident. That is my point.
silentbrown said:
There's no actual accelerometer for overevs. The ECU just measure how fast the crank (or cam) rotates based on time taken per rotation, using a simple magnetic sensor.
Conspiracy theories aside there always seems some possibility for electronics to go wrong though. As I recall the startup process for a Golf R sees the rev counter go all the way around to the end stop. Obviously a separate process to recording actual rpm but it all relies on computer programs and sensors which can go wrong at certain events. I think the likelihood is negligible but not impossible IMHO.
thebraketester said:
Needle sweep test, just an output from the clocks. No sensor involved.
The point is that it is all interconnected and managed by software. Probably not worth discussing as the probability is so low in this case but bugs in ECU software as in any computer software do exist.md4776 said:
Been interesting reading OP, glad its been resolved for you. It must be a weight off your mind knowing it's fixed and there should be no issue on hand back with the lease company. Desperately sore one on the old wallet though.
I've read previously that Porsche have a 6 band overrev category measurement, bands 1 & 2 result from hitting the rev limiter, anything above that invalidates the warranty (where it has one). Something I guess many manufacturers have now. I tried to buy an old cayman that on inspection (and plugging in) was found to have overrevs in all categories. It was still running. Point being, assuming the overrev event took place, but did not blow your engine - you might have found on your next visit to the dealer that the warranty had been invalidated anyway.
If you never had course to take it there you might never have known (i.e. serviced elsewhere), and handed it back to the lease company oblivious. Not much point of what-if's though .
Not quite. The redline is 7,800 so it is recording events in that region. Porsche will renew a warranty at anything up to and including R3. They may want to have a nosey inside the engine. Porsche dealers are not allowed to sell R4 cars. Whether they do is a different matter......I've read previously that Porsche have a 6 band overrev category measurement, bands 1 & 2 result from hitting the rev limiter, anything above that invalidates the warranty (where it has one). Something I guess many manufacturers have now. I tried to buy an old cayman that on inspection (and plugging in) was found to have overrevs in all categories. It was still running. Point being, assuming the overrev event took place, but did not blow your engine - you might have found on your next visit to the dealer that the warranty had been invalidated anyway.
If you never had course to take it there you might never have known (i.e. serviced elsewhere), and handed it back to the lease company oblivious. Not much point of what-if's though .
997 Carrera
Range 1 | >7300 and <7500
Range 2 | >7500 and <7700
Range 3 | >7700 and <7900
Range 4 | >7900 and <8400
Range 5 | >8400 and <9500
Range 6 | 9500+
Beanie said:
they didn't open it up and draw a definitive conclusion
This amazes me frankly.My 8V RS3 had an issue with blue smoke on cold start back in June, i took it to Audi, told them the likely cause. After 2 months of checking sensors, ECU's & other b0llocks that Audi kept telling them to do, they finally agreed to strip the engine, found the knackered valve stem seal & returned me the car, after 3 months. All covered by warranty thankfully - £3.5k's worth!
Normally, with a major engine failure, the dealership/manufacturer have a real interest in what has caused the problem, so im very surprised that they just assumed it had failed due to over-rev & billed you for it. Also, surely if you've bought a new engine, the old one is yours to do with as you please (like open it up) - unless you got a discount for giving it back to them?
Sir_Dave said:
Normally, with a major engine failure, the dealership/manufacturer have a real interest in what has caused the problem, so im very surprised that they just assumed it had failed due to over-rev
You forget that the ECU told them when and where and how much it was over-revved. IMMEDIATELY before it died and was towed in with zero compression...Sir_Dave said:
Also, surely if you've bought a new engine, the old one is yours to do with as you please (like open it up) - unless you got a discount for giving it back to them?
The concept of "exchange" is familiar to most people.Tony33 said:
problemchild1976 said:
most manual gearboxes ive driven with don't let you drop too many cogs in one go
and how do they stop you other than effort?i just find never skipping gears helps to not select the wrong gear
5 speed boxes always self centre
pretty sure 6 speed boxes don't when going 6 to 5 (to avoid 6 to 3) so if doing 6 to 4 maybe people get in the habit of forcing the stick across from the RH set to the middle set of gears.
so then in 5 and selecting 4 but force it across you could select 2 quite easy
JJ
problemchild1976 said:
Tony33 said:
problemchild1976 said:
most manual gearboxes ive driven with don't let you drop too many cogs in one go
and how do they stop you other than effort?i just find never skipping gears helps to not select the wrong gear
5 speed boxes always self centre
pretty sure 6 speed boxes don't when going 6 to 5 (to avoid 6 to 3) so if doing 6 to 4 maybe people get in the habit of forcing the stick across from the RH set to the middle set of gears.
so then in 5 and selecting 4 but force it across you could select 2 quite easy
JJ
Most, if not all, six speed boxes centre between 3rd and 4th too, I can flick it out of 6th upwards, wait for it to centre and then up into 3rd with almost no fuss, really useful for overtaking.
It can't be too bad gearbox longevity (touch wood) as my last one did 125,000miles with not a peep from the 'box, still on the original gearbox oil.
Gassing Station | Audi, Seat, Skoda & VW | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff