Citroen door mirror woe's
Discussion
Hmmm, interesting question Horsetan, I haven’t seen a CX in years.
Well I can’t see any reason why it wouldn’t.
I made the pin tool to fit the original screwed mount so that should work.
The thread clearing tool would work but the foam strips would be redundant I think and you may have to paint the new mounts as they may be visible.
An alternative would be to make up with a new shroud using exhaust pipe reducers like Asaad did.
Hope this info is useful and PM me if you would like a set.
Brian.
Well I can’t see any reason why it wouldn’t.
I made the pin tool to fit the original screwed mount so that should work.
The thread clearing tool would work but the foam strips would be redundant I think and you may have to paint the new mounts as they may be visible.
An alternative would be to make up with a new shroud using exhaust pipe reducers like Asaad did.
Hope this info is useful and PM me if you would like a set.
Brian.
Edited by Griffo400 on Saturday 14th October 12:31
Griffo400 said:
An alternative would be to make up with a new shroud using exhaust pipe reducers like Asaad did.
Extended mirror mounts fitted and, impressed as I am with Paul's stainless mount covers I came up with an alternative..........1. Purchase a pair of these (originals in foreground)
Note they are larger than the normal "Henry Vac" size 2. Set about them with a hacksaw and a Stanley knife
3. The sacrificial mount will need a little bit of modification to fit through them
4.Fit 'em
mirrors needed painting, no green paint so thought I'd see how silver looked, it'll do for now
Useful as the funny little Allen key is that Brian supplies I found one of these ideal for re-fitting............. Ball hex bits
Hi Phillpot, sorry for the delay in replying.
Yes the weather did put pay to displaying anything outside the car. I just put the parts on the dash in the end.
Another kit I have put together due to repairing my car are these rear wishbone adjusting screws and nuts.
I had to drill mine out as they had rusted solid so I made new ones out of stainless steel. The Nyloc nuts are high tensile steel as per the originals
I’ve also had some new bonnet prop catches made for the Griff, the piece that’s on the inner wing and the threaded ball that screws into the bonnet itself, all stainless.
I was trying to make a new double prop system for the bonnet but I no longer have the facilities to continue with it.
When I have some photos I’ll upload them here.
Cheers.
Brian.
Yes the weather did put pay to displaying anything outside the car. I just put the parts on the dash in the end.
Another kit I have put together due to repairing my car are these rear wishbone adjusting screws and nuts.
I had to drill mine out as they had rusted solid so I made new ones out of stainless steel. The Nyloc nuts are high tensile steel as per the originals
I’ve also had some new bonnet prop catches made for the Griff, the piece that’s on the inner wing and the threaded ball that screws into the bonnet itself, all stainless.
I was trying to make a new double prop system for the bonnet but I no longer have the facilities to continue with it.
When I have some photos I’ll upload them here.
Cheers.
Brian.
Count me in for a set please.
Griffo400 said:
If you've ever had the misfortune to remove or repair the Citroen mirrors on your V8S-Griffith-Chimera, you will know what a pain it is to remove and then reset them accurately.
This I discovered when somebody hit my passenger side mirror and wrenched it out of the door. Thankfully the only damage was some light scratches where the mirror swung on the wires.
Separating the threaded door mounting piece from the mirror, I screwed it back into the door but was unable to tighten it sufficiently without a specific tool and then when the mount was in, I was not able to get to the grub screw to set the mirror correctly, even with an extremely cut down hex "Allen" key.
I found that I had to insert the mount into the mirror and tighten the screw on to it in the position I thought it should be, before winding the whole unit into the door trying not to cross thread the mount in the brass door fitting.
This proved to be more than frustrating because, as expected, the mirror ended up in the wrong position. Several attempts and a twisted wiring loom later, I got it right.
I measured the tread on the cast "Mazak" zinc alloy mount and found it to be well undersize, which is probably why it was pulled out of the door.
Engineering being my trade for the last 40 years, I decided to make new ones but with a difference.
First thing was to make the thread the correct size and secondly to make the mount longer so that the screw was easily accessible, enabling the mount to be fitted and tightened to the door securely before fitting and easily adjusting the mirror body.
Measuring the door my first attempt was 20mm longer. While this made the mirror very easy to fit I felt that this was a little excessive so the next pair I made 15mm long. This still gives easy access to the screw but doesn't look obviously different.
In fact when I've asked fellow owners if they could spot anything different about the car, specifically the doors, nobody immediately spotted them. Only when they saw the neoprene rubber I had used to fill in the gap between the mount and the door did they get a clue but still did not see what I had done.
When I came to screw in the new improved version into my Griff's doors, they wouldn't fit! Upon closer inspection I realised that the threads in the brass bushes in the door were part filled with paint possible thread lock and general, now how shall I put this? Detritus!!
I looked into buying the appropriate M24 x 1.5 tap to clear the thread and decided that as I needed it there and then and it was also little expensive for a one off use, I would spend ten minutes picking out the offending crud from the treads to allow me to fit the new mounts.
I've since made a mild steel thread clearing tool to clean out any residual crud from the door fitting without damaging the brass thread.
My attention then turned to tightening the mounts securely into the door and seeing that the original mount had six radial slots cast into the top, I drilled four 3.5mm holes in my mounts at the same Pitch Circle Diameter as the Citroen part.
This then needed a pin tool to screw them in, so I made one with two 3mm pins protruding from one side and a hexagonal hole the other so that this will not only drive in the new mount but can also be used to remove the old one should this be stuck in the door.
Since I've been able tighten the mount firmly into the door and attach the mirror securely to the mount the view from them has improved as the vibration I used to get in the mirrors has been greatly reduced.
Another bonus is that I can now fold the mirror in closer to the door or fold it out and clean/polish behind it.
Talking to other owners it became clear that it was something they would be interested in.
So, I've come up with a kit of parts consisting of two new longer mounts, two new stainless steel grub screws, a thread cleaning tool, a pin tool, a modified Allen key and a couple of strips of neoprene foam rubber to wrap around the mounts and fill the void in the recess. I had enough material to make eight sets.
I would be keen to know what people here think and if i got enough interest I can make more.
please let me know.
This I discovered when somebody hit my passenger side mirror and wrenched it out of the door. Thankfully the only damage was some light scratches where the mirror swung on the wires.
Separating the threaded door mounting piece from the mirror, I screwed it back into the door but was unable to tighten it sufficiently without a specific tool and then when the mount was in, I was not able to get to the grub screw to set the mirror correctly, even with an extremely cut down hex "Allen" key.
I found that I had to insert the mount into the mirror and tighten the screw on to it in the position I thought it should be, before winding the whole unit into the door trying not to cross thread the mount in the brass door fitting.
This proved to be more than frustrating because, as expected, the mirror ended up in the wrong position. Several attempts and a twisted wiring loom later, I got it right.
I measured the tread on the cast "Mazak" zinc alloy mount and found it to be well undersize, which is probably why it was pulled out of the door.
Engineering being my trade for the last 40 years, I decided to make new ones but with a difference.
First thing was to make the thread the correct size and secondly to make the mount longer so that the screw was easily accessible, enabling the mount to be fitted and tightened to the door securely before fitting and easily adjusting the mirror body.
Measuring the door my first attempt was 20mm longer. While this made the mirror very easy to fit I felt that this was a little excessive so the next pair I made 15mm long. This still gives easy access to the screw but doesn't look obviously different.
In fact when I've asked fellow owners if they could spot anything different about the car, specifically the doors, nobody immediately spotted them. Only when they saw the neoprene rubber I had used to fill in the gap between the mount and the door did they get a clue but still did not see what I had done.
When I came to screw in the new improved version into my Griff's doors, they wouldn't fit! Upon closer inspection I realised that the threads in the brass bushes in the door were part filled with paint possible thread lock and general, now how shall I put this? Detritus!!
I looked into buying the appropriate M24 x 1.5 tap to clear the thread and decided that as I needed it there and then and it was also little expensive for a one off use, I would spend ten minutes picking out the offending crud from the treads to allow me to fit the new mounts.
I've since made a mild steel thread clearing tool to clean out any residual crud from the door fitting without damaging the brass thread.
My attention then turned to tightening the mounts securely into the door and seeing that the original mount had six radial slots cast into the top, I drilled four 3.5mm holes in my mounts at the same Pitch Circle Diameter as the Citroen part.
This then needed a pin tool to screw them in, so I made one with two 3mm pins protruding from one side and a hexagonal hole the other so that this will not only drive in the new mount but can also be used to remove the old one should this be stuck in the door.
Since I've been able tighten the mount firmly into the door and attach the mirror securely to the mount the view from them has improved as the vibration I used to get in the mirrors has been greatly reduced.
Another bonus is that I can now fold the mirror in closer to the door or fold it out and clean/polish behind it.
Talking to other owners it became clear that it was something they would be interested in.
So, I've come up with a kit of parts consisting of two new longer mounts, two new stainless steel grub screws, a thread cleaning tool, a pin tool, a modified Allen key and a couple of strips of neoprene foam rubber to wrap around the mounts and fill the void in the recess. I had enough material to make eight sets.
I would be keen to know what people here think and if i got enough interest I can make more.
please let me know.
Edited by Griffo400 on Saturday 11th February 18:19
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