Professional help needed

Professional help needed

Author
Discussion

Mike8448

Original Poster:

61 posts

99 months

Saturday 10th June 2017
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Hi Andy I will maybe take you up on that next week if I can't get hold of a ecu. Stockport isn't too far away.

andy43

9,687 posts

254 months

Sunday 11th June 2017
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No prob, just drop me a PM. I'm in Marple so about 20mins away from the M60 Stockport junction.

Astacus

3,379 posts

234 months

Monday 12th June 2017
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Yep, I'd need 'professional help' too after all that.

Argh my brain hurts

Mike8448

Original Poster:

61 posts

99 months

Sunday 18th June 2017
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Just to update Ecu has been sent off to be checked. Will let you know if it checks out okay.

Alpha Omega

11,209 posts

109 months

Monday 19th June 2017
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Thanks for the update

Bluebottle

3,498 posts

240 months

Monday 19th June 2017
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I had an ECU do this to me once (on the R/R with MA). when we checked the ecu circuit board there was a burnt out track on the board which controlled the fuel pump relay.

Mike8448

Original Poster:

61 posts

99 months

Thursday 22nd June 2017
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Good afternoon all, a QUICK UPDATE

I say GOOD afternoon because the ECU is back with a clean bill of health! So I have my new relays and a working ECU. So will be assessing the situation on Friday evening all being well.

Back to working out what is or is not working or connected. I have also now got an injector tester to go with everything else.

The plot thickens!

blitzracing

6,387 posts

220 months

Thursday 22nd June 2017
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Its worth checking the lambda heater wire (the red one) with a test meter, as this is the same 12v supply the pump gets- so if you get the short pulse with ignition on you know the main and fuel pump relay are working as they should be from an ECU perspective. The basic circuit is the first relay (ill call it the main) energises when the ECU gets power, and this in turn provides power to the coil of the fuel pump relay. The ground side of the fuel pump relay is then switched by the ECU to ground to close the contacts and put power to the pump and Lambda heater. You can turn the fuel pump relay on and off at will with Rovergauge or ECUmate that would make diagnosis easier.

Mike8448

Original Poster:

61 posts

99 months

Thursday 22nd June 2017
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Thanks Blitz I will take a look that's really good info!

Mike8448

Original Poster:

61 posts

99 months

Sunday 25th June 2017
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Hi all,

I have some great news, she runs!

So without revealing the exact combination but it is not that hard to figure out if you look at it logically, my immobiliser is defunct completely, on all circuits that it immobilise.

So there is 9 wires in the immobiliser plug. So what I never got round to checking after being so excited the engine ran, did the immobiliser have power as I figured out by happenstance which wires

1. make the car turn over
2. enabled the Ecu to turn on the fuel pump
3. complete the fuel pump circuit

What is left over on the plug I believe which are for the immobiliser to operate.

1. 12v+
2. 0v
3. Gnd
This is just theory at present I haven't had chance to check does anyone know or can confirm this is the case?

I need to check if there is 12v+ to the immobiliser this might be why it's not working at all.

Thanks for all the info so far guys

andy43

9,687 posts

254 months

Sunday 25th June 2017
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thumbup
Good stuff. No clue on immobiliser - mine hasn't got one.

Steve_D

13,741 posts

258 months

Sunday 25th June 2017
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On a 97 Chim these are the supplies

Fuse 2 is permanent +12v. Goes to...Main EFI relay pin30 & Pin86. also ECU pin 15.

Fuse 12 is ignition switched +12v. Goes (via immobiliser) to..Fuel pump relay Pin86 also ECU pin 19 also alarm Pin A8 also Immobiliser Pin 1 & 9.

Fuse 13 is permanent +12v. Goes to...Fuel pump relay Pin30. also alarm Pin A11 also Immobiliser Pin 2.

Steve

Mike8448

Original Poster:

61 posts

99 months

Sunday 25th June 2017
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Steve_D said:
On a 97 Chim these are the supplies

Fuse 2 is permanent +12v. Goes to...Main EFI relay pin30 & Pin86. also ECU pin 15.

Fuse 12 is ignition switched +12v. Goes (via immobiliser) to..Fuel pump relay Pin86 also ECU pin 19 also alarm Pin A8 also Immobiliser Pin 1 & 9.

Fuse 13 is permanent +12v. Goes to...Fuel pump relay Pin30. also alarm Pin A11 also Immobiliser Pin 2.

Steve
Hi Steve,

Thanks for the info. Ok so see image C, their is 3 pins horizontal at the bottom.



There will be 2x red on 1 pin, 2x black on the second pin and from memory 1x green on the third pin.

I'm talking about this plug, on the coloured side.

What I am guessing is these three control the power to the immobiliser etc. I need to diagnose this now to prove the meta immobiliser is either defunct or there is a power is causing my problems.

I'm thinking it would be a lot quicker to fit a more modern alarm like a clifford 650. I have one lying around with electric start off the key fob and boot pop....

Choices choices.

Steve_D

13,741 posts

258 months

Sunday 25th June 2017
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I've taken mine out and replaced it with something else.

What I recorded for the Meta was
Pin 1 Green Fuse 12
Pin 2 red Fuse 13.
Pin 3 Black earth

Steve

Mike8448

Original Poster:

61 posts

99 months

Sunday 25th June 2017
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Thanks Steve

I will check that. What is green then? Where does it go?

Mike8448

Original Poster:

61 posts

99 months

Wednesday 28th June 2017
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HI Guys final update on this issue.

So I can confirm the 3 wires I previously mentioned I was incorrect with my volumes.

2x Red
2x Green
1x Black.

I can now also confirm what each wire is.

RED is permanent LIVE 12v+
BLACK is EARTH 0V-
GREEN is IGNITION LIVE 12v+ (This tells the immobiliser when the key comes on)

If anyone needs help bypassing the immobiliser in future give me a shout!

andy43

9,687 posts

254 months

Wednesday 28th June 2017
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Mike8448 said:
If anyone needs help bypassing the immobiliser in future give me a shout!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKNBPIMsCwU

Mike8448

Original Poster:

61 posts

99 months

Wednesday 28th June 2017
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Very good. Will help within reason getmecoat