Griffith ignition warning light coming on while driving

Griffith ignition warning light coming on while driving

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Discussion

simon-gjlpm

Original Poster:

10 posts

83 months

Friday 30th June 2017
quotequote all
I've had my 500 pre serp for a couple of months and it's great.
I Was driving home during the week when the ignition warning light started random flashes then a light glow, then stayed on full time, I haven't tried since but what's going on and how can I fix please.

Cheers Simon

sparkythecat

7,898 posts

254 months

Friday 30th June 2017
quotequote all
If the alternator belt isn't broken, check the 100amp fuse under the car.

You'll find it in a little black box like this

https://goo.gl/images/zBAScR

Edited by sparkythecat on Friday 30th June 17:20

simon-gjlpm

Original Poster:

10 posts

83 months

Friday 30th June 2017
quotequote all
Thanks for the quick response that's great, is it ok to drive assuming it starts ok ?

Cheers Si

sparkythecat

7,898 posts

254 months

Friday 30th June 2017
quotequote all
It'll keep going until the battery runs out of charge, probably 20 to 40miles depending on the state of your battery. But if you switch off the engine, you won't be able to restart it

bluezeeland

1,965 posts

158 months

Friday 30th June 2017
quotequote all
Simon, No, its not, get it checked and eventually changed for new before you get stranded.....

simon-gjlpm

Original Poster:

10 posts

83 months

Friday 30th June 2017
quotequote all
This is all great help so I guess I need to buy a 100amp fuse it along with the alternator tomorrow what sort of fuse do I need, inline etc or does it have a name/ make

I hope to be using it tomorrow all being well

mk1fan

10,507 posts

224 months

Friday 30th June 2017
quotequote all
My advice is to swap the fuse for a 'midi' version which are more durable than the exposed 'wire'.

Alternatively, you could fit a 100amp marine circuit breaker in place of the fuseholder.

Ebay have plenty of both.

sparkythecat

7,898 posts

254 months

Friday 30th June 2017
quotequote all
Here is a picture of the fuseholder with both the original and newer types of 100amp fuse.


Just Google TVR 100amp fuse to find a supplier

blaze_away

1,502 posts

212 months

Friday 30th June 2017
quotequote all
I would suggest that your symptoms are that of a failing alternator. It could e the 100 amp fuse but gradual red light deterioration from flickering to solid on isnt how the blown fuse behaves. Go to any good garage near (or even halfords) and ask them to check your alternator and battery. Your alternator should be kicking out 13.5+ volts with the engine running.

Classic Chim

12,424 posts

148 months

Friday 30th June 2017
quotequote all
^^^^^ what he says. thumbup

sparkythecat

7,898 posts

254 months

Friday 30th June 2017
quotequote all
I suggested checking the alternator belt and 100 amp fuse to start with, as they are simple visible checks that anyone can carry out.

If they are OK, then testing the alternator is obviously the next logical thing to do.

QBee

20,904 posts

143 months

Friday 30th June 2017
quotequote all
I am with blasé away on this - alternator is failing.

QBee

20,904 posts

143 months

Friday 30th June 2017
quotequote all
I am not sure a pre-serp even has a 100 amp fuse.
I have had two 100 amp fuses fail, neither brought the ignition light on
I have had one alternator fail, light came on gradually, like yours.
But it could be the belt

simon-gjlpm

Original Poster:

10 posts

83 months

Friday 30th June 2017
quotequote all
Thanks everyone for your help, I didn't think it was a fuse but was hoping it would be as it's such an easy thing to fix. I have been told the pre serp griff 500 alternator is very difficult to fix or replace so I would like one stored in my garage even if I don't need it now, what's the situation ?

I really appreciate the knowledge you all have, it makes me feel much more relaxed about the TVR which I wanted for years but never felt confident enough to buy. I really like the grif as it bridges the old car experience with modern car grunt (and some) without all the driving aids that make it pointless, I feel much more relaxed about owning it because there are so many helpful people out there.

I have lots of plans for the car so will be reporting on progress as things progress.

Cheers Si

blaze_away

1,502 posts

212 months

Saturday 1st July 2017
quotequote all
Try Tvr parts but go via local specialist like DG SPORTSCARS REDDITCH.

The one you want is probably this
https://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-e...

but depends on your specifics eg with or without power steering/aircon.

jimed

1,500 posts

205 months

Saturday 1st July 2017
quotequote all
A local car electrics place might be able to refurbish your alternator. They can generally do it in a day or so, so maybe worth asking a local garage if there is anyone near you that does that sort of thing - or try a search using your area.
Jim

QBee

20,904 posts

143 months

Saturday 1st July 2017
quotequote all
jimed said:
A local car electrics place might be able to refurbish your alternator. They can generally do it in a day or so, so maybe worth asking a local garage if there is anyone near you that does that sort of thing - or try a search using your area.
Jim
They will certainly be able to bench test it and tell you if it is the problem if not. They will also be able to test the output with it on the car. Google auto-electrician, call the likely results, and take the car to them, I would suggest. Will minimise your hassle. If they cannot repair the alternator themselves they will know who can locally.

simon-gjlpm

Original Poster:

10 posts

83 months

Friday 7th July 2017
quotequote all
Ok ordered new alternator from TVR parts on Monday which arrived wednesday which is great, fitted it yesterday evening which needed one wire connector changing, seems to be working fine, noticed battery meter is reading slightly higher which also makes me think it was the alternator anyway. Drove it to work but oil pressure gauge now not working so hoping thats a fuse ? maybe from disconnecting the battery or something. water temp etc was all fine and oil level is ok so cant be actual oil pressure of zero

Thanks for all your help, extremely helpful.

will keep posting when can. Best regards Simon

QBee

20,904 posts

143 months

Friday 7th July 2017
quotequote all
May not be connected......in both senses.

My experience is of a late Chimaera, so could be wrong for your car, but on my car the oil pressure sender is at the bottom front of the engine near a chassis rail, with a one wire connection to it. The connector came loose (without completely falling off) at the end of a track day, when everything was hot. Drove out of Snetterton, onto the A11, looked down at the instruments, NO OIL PRESSURE !! yikes actually, I only had oil pressure when accelerating, not when decelerating.

Luckily my TVR guy was also on the track day and was 5 minutes behind me, so he came to my layby and checked the oil etc and announced "sender connector, it's not a pressure problem". He's never wrong.....

simon-gjlpm

Original Poster:

10 posts

83 months

Friday 7th July 2017
quotequote all
Hi i have absolutely no reading on the oil pressure gauge which makes me feel a bit better as the car was used today for about 20mins without any other signs or a problem, if i genuinely had no oil pressure the engine would surely seize or least show signs of stress such as heat etc first.

Thanks for telling where the sender is though, i will order another one and then just replace it and check wiring etc etc at the same time. I am gradually changing all parts i can as i go along, so far starter, alternator, fuel return line. New alarm.
Next steps were going to be coil, fuel pump, HT leads cap etc.

just purchased a battery brain isolator as well to be fitted soon and will be ordering a hot start kit ASAP as had that issue already.

Cheers Si