Griff 500 nut and bolt rebuild

Griff 500 nut and bolt rebuild

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Discussion

andy43

9,705 posts

254 months

Monday 16th April 2018
quotequote all
I think if I had 30k to spend on my Griff I'd have a Sportmotive evo chassis underneath it.
They list a full chassis/paint/trim/LS engine/the whole 9 yards job for 39-45k, and the LS conversion alone at 16-18k so if you were keeping a standard-ish engine and gearbox you could potentially include an updated chassis in budget.

hillclimbmanic

612 posts

144 months

Wednesday 18th April 2018
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...a little bit of chassis porn for you.!!
I'm into my resto for £15k, so far, and that's doing most of the work myself...







We replaced the outriggers, and then had the chassis media blasted, hot zinc flame sprayed, and finally powdercoated in chrome silver...

Edited by hillclimbmanic on Wednesday 18th April 23:35

hillclimbmanic

612 posts

144 months

Wednesday 18th April 2018
quotequote all

...just a little bit more...








330mm discs, and BIG Brembo conversion...

Olly-B

Original Poster:

143 posts

246 months

Tuesday 21st August 2018
quotequote all
Hi All,

Thanks a million for all the leads and thoughts.

She's off to Central TVR on Tuesday for approx 10 months for the 'Full Monty' (I like the idea of a single location that works with other specialists).

Trouble is there are so many improvements now, so many. Still, my gut feeling is to revert to original and remove the front and rear light conversion (which I like) and the leven dash etc and take her back to the quirky but original spec. The only concession being an engine up-power.

However now I'm hearing that the ECUs have run out so I should change it and the loom to an MBE system. Fine but that changes the look under the bonnet.....

So - do I go back to stock with all the faults (and I mean faults not foibles) or upgrade it

I don't know what to bloody do!!!

So, in a a few weeks time I'm up to Dudley to sit down with Adrian for a reality check, go over the options, pros and cons etc. He'll need to be as subtle and as wise as a psychiatrist to help me work out what I want

Still it's a golden problem I suppose.

I'll keep you posted

Oliver

900T-R

20,404 posts

257 months

Tuesday 21st August 2018
quotequote all
I woudln't worry too much about the ECU, there's still loads of them around and I think that John Eales or Mark Adams could even provide you with a brandy new one and an new engine loom, too if required. If yours were a very late car based on the late 4.0/4.6 block I'd be tempted to change to GEMS as a 'once and for all' solution, but otherwide I might change the mechanical ignition distributor with a USB mappable 123tune distributor that looks virually the same and offers full mapping capability.

You might however find that things like stepper motors, throttle pots distributor caps etc are becoming hard to get by in OEM quality (even if they're in a Lucas box) but high quality replacements are around if you look around. ACT does a very well thought out throttle pot conversion and I think it was Racetech Direct who commissioned a batch of properly engineered stepper motors.

ou sont les biscuits

5,118 posts

195 months

Tuesday 21st August 2018
quotequote all
Olly-B said:
Hi All,

She's off to Central TVR on Tuesday for approx 10 months for the 'Full Monty' (I like the idea of a single location that works with other specialists).

So, in a a few weeks time I'm up to Dudley to sit down with Adrian for a reality check, go over the options, pros and cons etc. He'll need to be as subtle and as wise as a psychiatrist to help me work out what I want

Still it's a golden problem I suppose.

I'll keep you posted

Oliver
Curiously enough, my Chimaera is coming back from Central tomorrow after a full monty (plus a spell at Powers having an MBE ECU fitted). It went away at the end of October last year, and it was due back from Central in July, but I then decided to have them trailer it off to Dom's place, delaying the hand back as a result of that.

The only thing I didn't have done was an engine rebuild, cos mine didn't need one. It has had a new cam fitted though, and has had the heads skimmed.

I wanted mine to remain original to the way it rolled out the factory, so it's painted the same colour, and the trim is the same colour as it was originally, the only difference being that it's now a full hide car instead of half hide. The chassis is the colour it's supposed to be too.

All in all it's cost a good bit less than the £30k you mentioned, but I realise that I'll never ever get what I've spent back if I sell it, so I guess I'm stuck with it.

One more big sleep till it gets here woohoo

Some underbody porn to show you what yours might look like.......








BIG DUNC

1,918 posts

223 months

Tuesday 21st August 2018
quotequote all
How exciting. You wont be getting much sleep tonight then.

Originality will always be king.

Although obviously you can improve them massively with a bit of modification. That is what time and progress does for you.

All depends on what you want out of it.

As said above, I wouldn't worry about ECU availability just yet. Mark Adams has repaired several for me over the years (that is on different cars, not the same one several times) and they are available second hand. Remember loads of classic range rovers, and others use them, so there is still a demand for them.

Belle427

8,951 posts

233 months

Thursday 23rd August 2018
quotequote all
I’d probably go for originality and let someone build the 500 engine the way it should have been, and then add a modern management system.
Something like this for the management.
http://www.kitsandclassics.co.uk/

Olly-B

Original Poster:

143 posts

246 months

Thursday 23rd August 2018
quotequote all
''Some underbody porn to show you what yours might look like.......''

Simply lovely..

Did you go for any Chassis improvments?

Oliver

Olly-B

Original Poster:

143 posts

246 months

Thursday 23rd August 2018
quotequote all
What is the consensus on 'Period Modifications. In the classic world mods offered during the cars manufacturing years are often sought after.

What were the 'period mods' for a Griffith? Leven? ACT? (were they even around?) Brake/Radiator conversions? etc

Oliver

ou sont les biscuits

5,118 posts

195 months

Thursday 23rd August 2018
quotequote all
Olly-B said:
''Some underbody porn to show you what yours might look like.......''

Simply lovely..

Did you go for any Chassis improvments?

Oliver
Nope. It was just blasted, welded where necessary and painted. Central have a chassis jig, so you can be pretty sure that when you have a body off there, whatever they weld in will be true. Which is something that would have worried me if I'd done the job myself in the lock-up!

Matthew Poxon

5,329 posts

173 months

Thursday 23rd August 2018
quotequote all
Olly-B said:
Hi All,

Thanks a million for all the leads and thoughts.

She's off to Central TVR on Tuesday for approx 10 months for the 'Full Monty' (I like the idea of a single location that works with other specialists).

Trouble is there are so many improvements now, so many. Still, my gut feeling is to revert to original and remove the front and rear light conversion (which I like) and the leven dash etc and take her back to the quirky but original spec. The only concession being an engine up-power.

However now I'm hearing that the ECUs have run out so I should change it and the loom to an MBE system. Fine but that changes the look under the bonnet.....

So - do I go back to stock with all the faults (and I mean faults not foibles) or upgrade it

I don't know what to bloody do!!!

So, in a a few weeks time I'm up to Dudley to sit down with Adrian for a reality check, go over the options, pros and cons etc. He'll need to be as subtle and as wise as a psychiatrist to help me work out what I want

Still it's a golden problem I suppose.

I'll keep you posted

Oliver
Fantastic news Olly, please keep us all updated with the progress, it will be interesting to follow.

I have no personal experience with Adrian at Central TVR but I know a couple of friends of mine who have had work done there and been very impressed with the outcome. Best of luck with the project and I shall look forward to reading the updates.

Olly-B

Original Poster:

143 posts

246 months

Tuesday 28th August 2018
quotequote all
Hi All,

She's off! Next stop Central TVR. I've decided to revert to visually period correct; walnut dash, original lights etc but upgrade the engine as much as practicable/possible using existing hardware so I imagine chip/cam/porting the plenum & head/ valves & pistons, lightening & balancing etc Obviously I need proper guidance and advice from TVR Power as to whats do-able as I am in no way up to speed.

I'll upload pics and comments along with many requests for readers thoughts along the way

Oliver

TR4man

5,226 posts

174 months

Saturday 10th November 2018
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How's it going Olly? Any updates for us?

Olly-B

Original Poster:

143 posts

246 months

Thursday 24th January 2019
quotequote all
Nothing much happening yet. I became tied up with business and then Christmas got in the way. I'm hoping to kick start it with Adrian this month

Oliver

Olly-B

Original Poster:

143 posts

246 months

Monday 4th March 2019
quotequote all
Update

After a 5 month delay I finally got to sit down with Adrian and Andy at Central today both of whom are very nice chaps to talk things through with, full of sensible advice and options. I have decided to take her back to near as dammit 'factory' so out go all the Leven bits, steel dash; Zertec lights etc.

We went through every aspect and they were both as keen as me to make it as original as can be. Even the usability improvements such as the Steve Heath bonnet prop are out. We're going all the way back to a 1996 dealers; everything looking brand new......and that means that I'll have to renew every single ancillary; dizzy, fans, alternator, the entire hydraulic system from calipers to slaves and servos, air flow meter etc Basically everything you can see anywhere.

All aluminium engine castings will be vapour blasted and ceramic peened

All pipes, fuel rails, latches and locks will be re-plated and that includes any visible bolts that can't be bought new.

Sadly the chassis is shot so off to RT racing for a new one.

Don't shoot me down but the only upgrades will be;-

1- A well hidden battery jump socket in the boot (I never want to crawl into the passenger foot well ever again)
2 - Aluminium rad left in (painted black) (I hate to see that needle climbing up whilst stuck on the M25 in summer)
2 - Braided hoses and Mintex pads (safety)
3 - 7'' headlamps (safety)
4 - V8Devs 5.4ltr with Dominator heads BUT externally as factory (pure hooliganism)
5 - Nitrons (safety)
6 - Carl Baker boot opener (not seen and I'll be damned if I'm going to F about with 4 bags of shopping in the rain)

I'll post pics once things have become interesting.

Oliver


Edited by Olly-B on Tuesday 5th March 20:29

griffdude

1,824 posts

248 months

Tuesday 5th March 2019
quotequote all
If it’s of any help, the cigarette lighter socket in the driver’s door is permanently wired live. I’ve kept mine on a battery conditioner using this for 10+ years & it works really well, plus no need to you rustling about in the pax footwell.

tonys

1,080 posts

223 months

Tuesday 5th March 2019
quotequote all
Don't forget - photos wink

Olly-B

Original Poster:

143 posts

246 months

Tuesday 5th March 2019
quotequote all
winkAh yes - today whilst looking on the TVR parts site I saw just that thing and thought that it would do the job without any mucking about. Thanks for the commendation.

Off to V8Devs next week to discuss a 5.4 with Dominator heads but can it be made to work whilst keeping the under-bonnet looking orig? Probably but I won't get the best out of it. I'll find out what I'll loose in power without visible mods.


On the other hand...Tempted to fit smooth bore inlet and air flow meter and ACT triple Plenum etc to match the internal gas flow work for hooning and refit orig stuff for the very occasional show. That way I get the best of both. I'll spec that any mods should be replaceable in my garage over a weekend. The power map won't like the orig plenum/airflow being back on etc but I wont be driving far when in 'original' mode. I'll need to check if it could still drive. Maybe 2 interchangeable ECU's??? One for everyday 'making good progress' driving and one for the occasional 'flask of tea with folding chair' car show event with original bits back on.

Steady on OB! Originality spec going wobbly alert!?rotate (but then again, 2 cars in 1? wink

Oliver


Edited by Olly-B on Tuesday 5th March 20:56

andy43

9,705 posts

254 months

Wednesday 6th March 2019
quotequote all
Original dealer spec.... apart from 5.4 engine. Like it smile
It's interesting reading stuff like this - the Griff is getting to the age where moving back to bone-stock original is a 'thing' now.
Cavalier plastic handbrake grips and distributors are making a comeback!
The emerald ECU has switchable map options but if you're after factory appearance it wouldn't work - coil packs. Two 14CUX ecus would be the answer I suppose, but an expensive option.
If you're after in-period originality I'd just work out what was available in, say 2000, and go from there. Rare in-period options are popular on classics anyway!