Very hot and bothered
Discussion
A friends 5ltr runs at 100'c all the time- the rad' is brand new, as the thermostat (large bore), and both fans are on full speed all the time. The engine bay is like a warp core heat wise, and it simply looks like hot air cant get out of the engine bay. Im going to have a play with the fueling to see if I can cool the catalyst as this cant help but Is the 5lt cooling system really that marginal?
Quick update- ripping off the number plate has made a significant difference- so time for a splitter to force more air in in the air intake and cut the number plate down is size...
Quick update- ripping off the number plate has made a significant difference- so time for a splitter to force more air in in the air intake and cut the number plate down is size...
Edited by blitzracing on Sunday 1st July 19:51
I use a smaller number plate. The under bonnet temps on a Griff are ridiculous. Mine runs at 90deg constant with odd time climbing to 95 but never seen it at 100. Make sure there is a gap at the top of the bonnet between it and the landing panel (black mesh that the wipers bolt through) just a small gap to let the air escape will make a big difference. Removing pre cats will also help.
blitzracing said:
A friends 5ltr runs at 100'c all the time- the rad' is brand new, as the thermostat (large bore), and both fans are on full speed all the time. The engine bay is like a warp core heat wise, and it simply looks like hot air cant get out of the engine bay. Im going to have a play with the fueling to see if I can cool the catalyst as this cant help but Is the 5lt cooling system really that marginal?
Quick update- ripping off the number plate has made a significant difference- so time for a splitter to force more air in in the air intake and cut the number plate down is size...
Have you carried out an independent water temperature test, simply because the gauges can be inaccurate. Quick update- ripping off the number plate has made a significant difference- so time for a splitter to force more air in in the air intake and cut the number plate down is size...
Edited by blitzracing on Sunday 1st July 19:51
blitzracing said:
A friends 5ltr runs at 100'c all the time- the rad' is brand new, as the thermostat (large bore), and both fans are on full speed all the time. The engine bay is like a warp core heat wise, and it simply looks like hot air cant get out of the engine bay. Im going to have a play with the fueling to see if I can cool the catalyst as this cant help but Is the 5lt cooling system really that marginal?
Quick update- ripping off the number plate has made a significant difference- so time for a splitter to force more air in in the air intake and cut the number plate down is size...
noQuick update- ripping off the number plate has made a significant difference- so time for a splitter to force more air in in the air intake and cut the number plate down is size...
Edited by blitzracing on Sunday 1st July 19:51
something is wrong with that car..
mine sits between 80-90 -
90 even on the hottest days.
(mine has standard number plate, and had no problems without the splitter, and has it's catalysts, totally standard engine wise)
rather than modify around the problem. best to solve the problem? it should not run this hot
Edited by BJWoods on Monday 2nd July 08:51
You definitely have a problem.
My 1996 Griffith 500 did 500+ miles yesterday to Shelsley Walsh and the temperature on the guage never exceeded 80 while on the move.
Even when stuck in traffic ( quite a few times) the temperature with the fans on never exceeded 90. It was a sweltering day so a decent test.
My 1996 Griffith 500 did 500+ miles yesterday to Shelsley Walsh and the temperature on the guage never exceeded 80 while on the move.
Even when stuck in traffic ( quite a few times) the temperature with the fans on never exceeded 90. It was a sweltering day so a decent test.
You definitely have a problem.
My 1996 Griffith 500 did 500+ miles yesterday to Shelsley Walsh and the temperature on the guage never exceeded 80 while on the move.
Even when stuck in traffic ( quite a few times) the temperature with the fans on never exceeded 90. It was a sweltering day so a decent test.
My 1996 Griffith 500 did 500+ miles yesterday to Shelsley Walsh and the temperature on the guage never exceeded 80 while on the move.
Even when stuck in traffic ( quite a few times) the temperature with the fans on never exceeded 90. It was a sweltering day so a decent test.
steve-V8s said:
I looked at a Griff once that struggled in warm weather but was otherwise OK.
The Fans had been off and were reconnected the wrong way round. Worth checking if they came off to fit the new rad.
This. bought a Chim that was blowing only one fan the right way. Changed wiring polarity and all was well!The Fans had been off and were reconnected the wrong way round. Worth checking if they came off to fit the new rad.
My 500 ran hot a few times.
2 things worth checking
Make sure that the heat setting for the cabin is hot - this will allow water to circulate through the heater matrix giving you a couple more pints of water to play with.
Second thing which is not so easy - check that the oil pick up strainer isn't blocked. Mine was with old sump gasket and silicone sealant. Oil pressure will be fine but you don't get enough flow and hence cooling
Good luck
2 things worth checking
Make sure that the heat setting for the cabin is hot - this will allow water to circulate through the heater matrix giving you a couple more pints of water to play with.
Second thing which is not so easy - check that the oil pick up strainer isn't blocked. Mine was with old sump gasket and silicone sealant. Oil pressure will be fine but you don't get enough flow and hence cooling
Good luck
Thanks for the thoughts so far- basically there has been a massive drop in temp with the number plate removed, plus we spent more time bleeding the system- so plan of action is to fit a splitter to force more air in, and make the number plate as small as legally possible to start with. Also worth moving the bonnet clamps up a bit at the rear to increase the air gap. Im still going to have a play with the fueling to see if I can reduce the cat' temp, as it should also improve the MPG. Id recommend COGs recommendation of removing the ported vacuum as well, as I cant find a downside on this mod what so ever.
Edited by blitzracing on Tuesday 3rd July 11:48
Number plates are oversized to what they need to be, You can take about 30mm off the width of a standard 7 figure number plate and still be legal. If you plate has fewer characters or a "1" then you can make it smaller (a "1" is the only narrower character).
See page 10 of this: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/governmen...
"Margins" is what you want to look for, I.e. the minimum amount of material you must have around the characters.
See page 10 of this: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/governmen...
"Margins" is what you want to look for, I.e. the minimum amount of material you must have around the characters.
This seems to be curing the symptom, but not the problem.
The Griff cooling system is not that marginal.
When it left the factory it would have had a full sized number plate and the bonnit in the proper position and the fans would not have been running all the time.
It sounds to me like something else is wrong.
The Griff cooling system is not that marginal.
When it left the factory it would have had a full sized number plate and the bonnit in the proper position and the fans would not have been running all the time.
It sounds to me like something else is wrong.
Your 1st big mistake is trusting what the fitted gauge is telling you and the fact you think the under-bonnet heat is excessive well even a properly running car will have sweltering heat this time of year under the bonnet if the cat/cats are still fitted even when at correct coolant temps get an accurate gauge of the actual engine temperature (thermal gun etc) around coolant stubbs radiator etc keeping away from shiny parts before you go into melt down over this possible issue
Ill pop Rovergauge on there to check- but my spider senses tell me this is really hot, and the engine starts to stall badly as it reaches an indicated 100'c. Im not loosening the cap to find out it boils ! Mind you maybe I'm just used to a nice Ginetta cooling system that never goes above 85'c whatever the ambient temp.
Edited by blitzracing on Wednesday 4th July 12:36
Edited by blitzracing on Wednesday 4th July 12:36
Sardonicus said:
Your 1st big mistake is trusting what the fitted gauge is telling you and the fact you think the under-bonnet heat is excessive well even a properly running car will have sweltering heat this time of year under the bonnet if the cat/cats are still fitted even when at correct coolant temps get an accurate gauge of the actual engine temperature (thermal gun etc) around coolant stubbs radiator etc keeping away from shiny parts before you go into melt down over this possible issue
As the fans are running continually you can surely rule out guage errors, they are only a guide at the best of times.Have you checked that all the coolant hoses/circuit are clear?
I found this many years ago:
http://www.bertram-hill.com/griffith-cooling-syste...
Sardonicus said:
Your 1st big mistake is trusting what the fitted gauge is telling you and the fact you think the under-bonnet heat is excessive well even a properly running car will have sweltering heat this time of year under the bonnet if the cat/cats are still fitted even when at correct coolant temps get an accurate gauge of the actual engine temperature (thermal gun etc) around coolant stubbs radiator etc keeping away from shiny parts before you go into melt down over this possible issue
As the fans are running continually you can surely rule out guage errors, they are only a guide at the best of times.Have you checked that all the coolant hoses/circuit are clear?
I found this many years ago:
http://www.bertram-hill.com/griffith-cooling-syste...
Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff