Boiling my head
Discussion
Morning guys thanks for the reply’s.
This is the way I filled and bled the system as follows:
Removed heater pipe off metal pipe that leads direct into the thermostat housing filled the block, left filling until it came out of the radiator bled screw, refitted bleed screw and waited till it came out of the swirl tank to the top of the screw thread. Stop filling then filled the expansion bottle upto half way. Ran engine and within a minute air rush’s into the expansion bottle bubbling up and starts to fill the expansion bottle till it over flows, so fitted cap on and continue to run engine upto temp. Holding the revs at 2500rpm after 5 mins of running the engine, aloud the water flow into the heater matrix to get really hot and hot air blow on the screen,
1 question I have is when I turn the ignition on the water valve runs continuously so looking in the passenger footwell I can see that the valve just continues to rotate through a full 360° cycle and not stop, I believe this is not right and should either be open or closed depending on heat control selection?????
So any way continue to let engine get hot to the point that it reaches 100°c fans have cut prior to this and runbcontinuously and the temperature rises to 110°c then I decide to switch her off, the only other thing is it’s only got plain water in it at this point as I wanted to test for leaks after Rad, pump and stat replacement.
I started my career in the motor trade in 2000 and finished in 2014 as a mechanic and moved into the Rail industry as a Train technician.
My career experience on old skool push rod, engines, distributor caps, swirl pots is very limited so any help on these old girls is a great help.
Going to get my mates block test fluid kit tomorrow and test for head gasket failure, just hope it’s not gone and it’s just air locked but if it has it has. Bought the car private and paid dealers trade price for it so I have budgeted to spend 2-3k on her
This is the way I filled and bled the system as follows:
Removed heater pipe off metal pipe that leads direct into the thermostat housing filled the block, left filling until it came out of the radiator bled screw, refitted bleed screw and waited till it came out of the swirl tank to the top of the screw thread. Stop filling then filled the expansion bottle upto half way. Ran engine and within a minute air rush’s into the expansion bottle bubbling up and starts to fill the expansion bottle till it over flows, so fitted cap on and continue to run engine upto temp. Holding the revs at 2500rpm after 5 mins of running the engine, aloud the water flow into the heater matrix to get really hot and hot air blow on the screen,
1 question I have is when I turn the ignition on the water valve runs continuously so looking in the passenger footwell I can see that the valve just continues to rotate through a full 360° cycle and not stop, I believe this is not right and should either be open or closed depending on heat control selection?????
So any way continue to let engine get hot to the point that it reaches 100°c fans have cut prior to this and runbcontinuously and the temperature rises to 110°c then I decide to switch her off, the only other thing is it’s only got plain water in it at this point as I wanted to test for leaks after Rad, pump and stat replacement.
I started my career in the motor trade in 2000 and finished in 2014 as a mechanic and moved into the Rail industry as a Train technician.
My career experience on old skool push rod, engines, distributor caps, swirl pots is very limited so any help on these old girls is a great help.
Going to get my mates block test fluid kit tomorrow and test for head gasket failure, just hope it’s not gone and it’s just air locked but if it has it has. Bought the car private and paid dealers trade price for it so I have budgeted to spend 2-3k on her
Regarding your heater problem this may help:
http://www.bertram-hill.com/heater-problems.html
Its quite common for a wire to drop off the potentiometer etc.
Best of luck with your over heating, I usually fill from a height using a hose and funnel and have found this OK, but as yours seems to overheat quickly its worth checking for exhaust gases.
http://www.bertram-hill.com/heater-problems.html
Its quite common for a wire to drop off the potentiometer etc.
Best of luck with your over heating, I usually fill from a height using a hose and funnel and have found this OK, but as yours seems to overheat quickly its worth checking for exhaust gases.
As a bit of useful cross referencing. Those with the Carbonnet dials may wish to use the temp sender mentioned in this thread to ensure the gauge is showing what the ecu is reading.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
wat51901 said:
Morning guys thanks for the reply’s.
This is the way I filled and bled the system as follows:
Removed heater pipe off metal pipe that leads direct into the thermostat housing filled the block, left filling until it came out of the radiator bled screw, refitted bleed screw and waited till it came out of the swirl tank to the top of the screw thread. Stop filling then filled the expansion bottle upto half way. Ran engine and within a minute air rush’s into the expansion bottle bubbling up and starts to fill the expansion bottle till it over flows, so fitted cap on and continue to run engine upto temp. Holding the revs at 2500rpm after 5 mins of running the engine, aloud the water flow into the heater matrix to get really hot and hot air blow on the screen,
1 question I have is when I turn the ignition on the water valve runs continuously so looking in the passenger footwell I can see that the valve just continues to rotate through a full 360° cycle and not stop, I believe this is not right and should either be open or closed depending on heat control selection?????
So any way continue to let engine get hot to the point that it reaches 100°c fans have cut prior to this and runbcontinuously and the temperature rises to 110°c then I decide to switch her off, the only other thing is it’s only got plain water in it at this point as I wanted to test for leaks after Rad, pump and stat replacement.
I started my career in the motor trade in 2000 and finished in 2014 as a mechanic and moved into the Rail industry as a Train technician.
My career experience on old skool push rod, engines, distributor caps, swirl pots is very limited so any help on these old girls is a great help.
Going to get my mates block test fluid kit tomorrow and test for head gasket failure, just hope it’s not gone and it’s just air locked but if it has it has. Bought the car private and paid dealers trade price for it so I have budgeted to spend 2-3k on her
Welcome to Pistonheads there is a few of us from the train industry on here. This is the way I filled and bled the system as follows:
Removed heater pipe off metal pipe that leads direct into the thermostat housing filled the block, left filling until it came out of the radiator bled screw, refitted bleed screw and waited till it came out of the swirl tank to the top of the screw thread. Stop filling then filled the expansion bottle upto half way. Ran engine and within a minute air rush’s into the expansion bottle bubbling up and starts to fill the expansion bottle till it over flows, so fitted cap on and continue to run engine upto temp. Holding the revs at 2500rpm after 5 mins of running the engine, aloud the water flow into the heater matrix to get really hot and hot air blow on the screen,
1 question I have is when I turn the ignition on the water valve runs continuously so looking in the passenger footwell I can see that the valve just continues to rotate through a full 360° cycle and not stop, I believe this is not right and should either be open or closed depending on heat control selection?????
So any way continue to let engine get hot to the point that it reaches 100°c fans have cut prior to this and runbcontinuously and the temperature rises to 110°c then I decide to switch her off, the only other thing is it’s only got plain water in it at this point as I wanted to test for leaks after Rad, pump and stat replacement.
I started my career in the motor trade in 2000 and finished in 2014 as a mechanic and moved into the Rail industry as a Train technician.
My career experience on old skool push rod, engines, distributor caps, swirl pots is very limited so any help on these old girls is a great help.
Going to get my mates block test fluid kit tomorrow and test for head gasket failure, just hope it’s not gone and it’s just air locked but if it has it has. Bought the car private and paid dealers trade price for it so I have budgeted to spend 2-3k on her
Morning folks,
A update on my overheating/ possible heat gasket.
Yesterday I removed all water temp sensors and this redundant pipe with the bolt in the end cleaned them up and unblocked the redundant pipe which was blocked with crud from over the years.
Then I made a long pipe to fit in the swirl pot with funnel on the end, I then filled the system until coolant started coming out of the redundant pipe this got all the air out the system as it’s the highest point.
Ran the engine and tested with the block test fluid never turned yellow, left engine until it got upto temperature with the fans cutting in and out and the temp gauge never really going above 92-94°c I would say, I cross checked this with a infrared laser heat detection gun on all parts of the coolant system and temps were all fine.
Left her running for 30-40 on idle and the odd reving up for the awesome V8 noise and never missed a beat, coolant pipes stayed soft no blowing up with expansion and after leaving her to cool down expansion cap came off with no excessive pressure, to say I am happy is a under statement.
Been reading a forum about coolant temperature sensors and that if you fit a TT6811-03 water temp sender in place of the redundant sensor on top of the thermostat stat housing you get a more accurate reading on your temp gauge in the car so I’ve ordered one of those this morning. Only thing is minimum order is 2 plus postage, So if anyone wants to go half’s i will send you the other sensor at a cost of £15.50. Email me @ robert.watson84@hotmail.co.uk
Thanks for all the help with my issues on overheating
A update on my overheating/ possible heat gasket.
Yesterday I removed all water temp sensors and this redundant pipe with the bolt in the end cleaned them up and unblocked the redundant pipe which was blocked with crud from over the years.
Then I made a long pipe to fit in the swirl pot with funnel on the end, I then filled the system until coolant started coming out of the redundant pipe this got all the air out the system as it’s the highest point.
Ran the engine and tested with the block test fluid never turned yellow, left engine until it got upto temperature with the fans cutting in and out and the temp gauge never really going above 92-94°c I would say, I cross checked this with a infrared laser heat detection gun on all parts of the coolant system and temps were all fine.
Left her running for 30-40 on idle and the odd reving up for the awesome V8 noise and never missed a beat, coolant pipes stayed soft no blowing up with expansion and after leaving her to cool down expansion cap came off with no excessive pressure, to say I am happy is a under statement.
Been reading a forum about coolant temperature sensors and that if you fit a TT6811-03 water temp sender in place of the redundant sensor on top of the thermostat stat housing you get a more accurate reading on your temp gauge in the car so I’ve ordered one of those this morning. Only thing is minimum order is 2 plus postage, So if anyone wants to go half’s i will send you the other sensor at a cost of £15.50. Email me @ robert.watson84@hotmail.co.uk
Thanks for all the help with my issues on overheating
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