4.3 main problems to look for ?
Discussion
Just a word of caution to buyers of high mileage Griffs, take it for a good test drive, and really put it through its paces. Mine had 80,000 on it and had a top end rebuild, six months after I bought it it started to leak oil through the head gasket and stripped the head bolts. Test for this by accelerating hard in 3/4 gears if there are any problems you will hear a strange hollow "fluffing" sound, it won't sound right. Just thought I'd mention this, and like someone else said, why did it have a rebuild?
griff59 said:
Just a word of caution to buyers of high mileage Griffs, take it for a good test drive, and really put it through its paces. Mine had 80,000 on it and had a top end rebuild, six months after I bought it it started to leak oil through the head gasket and stripped the head bolts. Test for this by accelerating hard in 3/4 gears if there are any problems you will hear a strange hollow "fluffing" sound, it won't sound right. Just thought I'd mention this, and like someone else said, why did it have a rebuild?
Ok good advice, will check it when take for a run.With regard to top end rebuild, I don’t know why it was done, but will ask. Is it. It a good thing though ? I thought someone on here mentioned that most will need camshaft sorting at around 70k miles ?
Ducati0 said:
Ok good advice, will check it when take for a run.
With regard to top end rebuild, I don’t know why it was done, but will ask. Is it. It a good thing though ? I thought someone on here mentioned that most will need camshaft sorting at around 70k miles ?
Sounds like exactly what I've heard, and, mine had a new cam at 70,000 seems pretty par for the course.With regard to top end rebuild, I don’t know why it was done, but will ask. Is it. It a good thing though ? I thought someone on here mentioned that most will need camshaft sorting at around 70k miles ?
if the chassis was never replaced....i guess it would be time to do....wayolyed cars are a walk-away for me....in first place it may protect, but in later stage it just covers.
fact is: if the car would have been well cared and regulary washed underneath, also not driven in winter, even the cr*ppy tvr powdercoating would have lasted.
also fact is: most owners do not wash the car reguary underneath, most oweners drive in winter or often in wet weather with a lotu of diry /mud on the roads...
fact is: if the car would have been well cared and regulary washed underneath, also not driven in winter, even the cr*ppy tvr powdercoating would have lasted.
also fact is: most owners do not wash the car reguary underneath, most oweners drive in winter or often in wet weather with a lotu of diry /mud on the roads...
Collected ! Long drive back from North Yorkshire but made it back 
car is lovely and condition is how I was expecting. Couple of things that I want to address,
1st being the chronic smell of fumes in the cabin, actually worse with windows open. I know there has been talk of this somewhere in the past about scoops being fitted to underside of car to draw in fresh air into boot area. Need to investigate further and sort as it’s very unpleasant. Strangely cannot ever remember it being as bad on my Griffs back in the day.
2nd issue is when accelerating hard in any of the gears it starts holding back at around 4-4500 rpm. Strangely if you build the speed slowly it doesn’t do it ? So gawd knows what it can be ? obviously I’m thinking fuel and also if it’s running a bit too rich, but I am guessing here. The engine revs very freely and spins up nicely, it’s just this holding back when flooring hard. That’s it really, car has a great history file with lots of work carried out over the years. Have to say, it’s so good to be back in a Griff, puts a smile on my face
Here’s a Pic, straight after the long journey.
car is lovely and condition is how I was expecting. Couple of things that I want to address, 1st being the chronic smell of fumes in the cabin, actually worse with windows open. I know there has been talk of this somewhere in the past about scoops being fitted to underside of car to draw in fresh air into boot area. Need to investigate further and sort as it’s very unpleasant. Strangely cannot ever remember it being as bad on my Griffs back in the day.
2nd issue is when accelerating hard in any of the gears it starts holding back at around 4-4500 rpm. Strangely if you build the speed slowly it doesn’t do it ? So gawd knows what it can be ? obviously I’m thinking fuel and also if it’s running a bit too rich, but I am guessing here. The engine revs very freely and spins up nicely, it’s just this holding back when flooring hard. That’s it really, car has a great history file with lots of work carried out over the years. Have to say, it’s so good to be back in a Griff, puts a smile on my face
Here’s a Pic, straight after the long journey.
Edited by Ducati0 on Friday 19th April 08:52
TV8 said:
Looks great! With regards to the running check the basics such as leads, plugs, extenders and timing if you are able to do that or know someone that can. Also, the air intake tube on the early cars looks like something off a tumble drier vent, so check that isn’t collapsed.
Thank you, from what I can see so far it’s pretty good. I will get someone to check the timing, the leads are all good I think, a Mallory ignition was fitted a while back, Will check how long ago !
With regard to the air intake tube, is that an easy job that I could check ?
Ducati0 said:
Thank you, from what I can see so far it’s pretty good.
I will get someone to check the timing, the leads are all good I think, a Mallory ignition was fitted a while back, Will check how long ago !
With regard to the air intake tube, is that an easy job that I could check ?
1/Take the end off the long pipe from the air filter to the plenum look down it. Mine looked in good condition externally but was collapsed internally, near the exhaust is a prime candidate.I will get someone to check the timing, the leads are all good I think, a Mallory ignition was fitted a while back, Will check how long ago !
With regard to the air intake tube, is that an easy job that I could check ?
2/Plug extenders break down.... Kevlar socks help to prolong their life.
3/check the boot is sealing correctly.
Also, if you have access to or want to buy an infra red thermometer, that can show you if any exhausts are running cooler than the others and that can help pin point the failing lead/extender. Also, check the connections on the plugs and distillate cap and also the engine earths.
Does the car have the original alarm? I had an early car and for reasons I never got to the bottom of, that used to like an ECU reset every few months until an electrician cleaned the alarm relays.
Does the car have the original alarm? I had an early car and for reasons I never got to the bottom of, that used to like an ECU reset every few months until an electrician cleaned the alarm relays.
Don't assume it is fuel related. My Westfield seight would hesitate and lose power when floored, but rev fine if more gentle on the throttle. It was a failing alternator. Heavy right foot needs a brighter spark. Sounds odd but it's true and took me ages to find out , and a few quid replacing other bits incorrectly on the way).
TV8 said:
Where abouts are you? I am in Bromley and have a bag of good spares you can borrow if that helps?
That’s really kind of you, but unfortunately I’m not too mechanically minded, I know what’s what etc but determining whether leads are not doing there job, I wouldn’t really know 
Where are you in Bromley ? (You can pm if you prefer) I used to live in the area, my mum still lives there.
Edited by Ducati0 on Friday 19th April 09:07
Edited by Ducati0 on Friday 19th April 09:08
Ducati0 said:
I guess cheapest place to start is making sure proper spark at plugs and air intake tube....Then move onto other bits.
Regarding the quality of the spark - a simple test is to fully charge the battery overnight, then go out and cane it. The battery will have enough oompph in it to create a full strength spark for a short while, even if the alternator is failing. Easy way to rule out what I mentionedRogerDodger said:
Regarding the quality of the spark - a simple test is to fully charge the battery overnight, then go out and cane it. The battery will have enough oompph in it to create a full strength spark for a short while, even if the alternator is failing. Easy way to rule out what I mentioned
Ok cool, will try that. Interestingly the fella said it’s a new battery, but when you start the car, it turns very slowly ? Edited by Ducati0 on Friday 19th April 10:18
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