Rear wheel hub nut torque after bearing replacement

[SwedishTVR]

I just upgraded to bigger (273mm) vented discs at the rear and replaced the bearing carriers to fit the new calipers.

I can’t find any torque and tightening method (like applying torque in stages or something like that) for the hub nut.

After assembly by hand, the wheel hub is wobbeling in the bearing, which i suppose is due to the fact that the hub (wheel-side) and driveshaft-carrier (diff-side) slide throught inner and outer bearings and onto each other.

I assume, when tightening, all four parts will be pushed together tightly, creating stability.

Anyone did this before and can tell me how it’s done and torqued?

Thanks

[bobfather]

I guess the most important thing is not to torque up through the LSD. It is a common process to torque by leaving the opposite wheel on the ground and in reverse gear. You must not do this as it will damage the LSD. There is a method documented in Steve Heaths Bible, long bar bolted to two of the wheel studs with the far end of the bar on the ground. This will prevent the hub from rotating while you torque the hub nut

[Oldred_V8S]

bobfather said:

I guess the most important thing is not to torque up through the LSD. It is a common process to torque by leaving the opposite wheel on the ground and in reverse gear. You must not do this as it will damage the LSD. There is a method documented in Steve Heaths Bible, long bar bolted to two of the wheel studs with the far end of the bar on the ground. This will prevent the hub from rotating while you torque the hub nut

I put the spare wheel back on mine to tighten the hub nut. The spare wheel allows for the use of the big FO socket (41mm I think).

[SwedishTVR]

Thanks for your feedback. The sequence i described seems correct, and i understand from your comments that the torque must be significant and can best be applied with the wheels on the ground.


What is the torque value? Can it be applied on one go, or does it need to be done in steps with release in between?

[phillpot]

250-290 Nm (185-214 lb ft)

I would be inclined to tighten a bit, spin it and make sure all is good, tighten bit more, repeat, final tighten till Torque wrench 'clicks'


Of course, if you have a fancy modern electronic torque wrench it won't click ....

[bobfather]

phillpot said:

250-290 Nm (185-214 lb ft)

My information say 310 to 350Nm

See here

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

[Oldred_V8S]

Be warned, not many torque wrenches work anti clockwise.
You might want to check yours or you might be standing on the end of the torque wrench expecting it to click only to find you strip the thread.
The off-side is a RH thread but the near-side is anti-clock.
I gradually tightened the left one and then checked to see how much torque was required to undo it.
Probably not the most scientific way but it seemed to work.

[phillpot]

bobfather said:

phillpot said:

250-290 Nm (185-214 lb ft)

My information say 310 to 350Nm

Your information is wrong