Mobile Fuel Pump Mechanic

Mobile Fuel Pump Mechanic

Author
Discussion

Coefficient

Original Poster:

28 posts

66 months

Thursday 25th June 2020
quotequote all
After final getting my immobilizer replaced and the starter motor turning over (thanks Dave), my fuel pump has decided to go on furlough. It's not the relays or the inertia so I would guess the pump contacts are the most likely culprit? I don't have any lifting gear and I don't suppose there is any other way to access the pump(?) so can anyone recommend a mobile mechanic who might be able to do the job in the Guildford area?

Cheers,

James

Loubaruch

1,164 posts

197 months

Thursday 25th June 2020
quotequote all
You can reach the fuel pump terminals by removing the rear near side wheel but use an axle stand to support the car while under it.


Disconnect the fuel pump wires and connect +ve and -ve leads direct from your battery this will test the pump.

There are several other connections in the fuel pump circuit that if poor could prevent the pump running. But better to isolate the pump before venturing down that route.

This may help:

http://www.bertram-hill.com/fuel-pump-schematic.ht...

Edited by Loubaruch on Thursday 25th June 18:03

Mr.Grooler

1,178 posts

224 months

Thursday 25th June 2020
quotequote all
If you can’t jack the car up, is there a tall kerb you could push the car half onto to lift one side enough for you to crawl part way under the back? Not the nicest of jobs but I reckon you could reach the pump. If they’re spade connectors on the pump and you have some electrical bits and bobs handy then you could make up a little fly lead to fit to the pump one handed and then test it once you’ve crawled back out again.

phillpot

17,105 posts

182 months

Thursday 25th June 2020
quotequote all
Coefficient said:
A I don't have any lifting gear.
Buy a small trolley jack and a pair of axle stands, will pay for themselves a hundred times over if you're interested in doing some maintainance yourself.

This job alone they'll recoup their cost smile

Coefficient

Original Poster:

28 posts

66 months

Friday 26th June 2020
quotequote all
OK, what you are all saying makes sense - looks like a trip to Halfords is on the cards. Lifting gear is fairly straightforward but when you say connect pump directly to battery, what kind of gear do I need to order? Do I need crimping tools? Connectors?

Cheers

Steve_D

13,737 posts

257 months

Friday 26th June 2020
quotequote all
Is car maintenance something you want to learn and get involved in?
If so then the forum collective can hold your hand and guide you through this.
If not then your original suggestion of a mobile mechanic/electrician is your best bet. Or arrange for the car to be recovered to a suitable garage.
I expect we (Southways) are a little to far away.

Steve

QBee

20,903 posts

143 months

Friday 26th June 2020
quotequote all
If you are going to Halfords for a trolley jack get the low entry one - it's about £50. A standard jack won't go under the car, especially if you have a flat tyre

lancepar

1,011 posts

171 months

Friday 26th June 2020
quotequote all
Pump run testing.

1st determine what the terminals are on the pos' and neg' of the pump, they could be lucar spades or ring terminals.

Remove them.

On a length of 2 core cable fit the same terminals as on the car to the pump and connect the other ends of the cable to a 12v battery either a spare or the one on the car, 12v pos and neg. If the pump is OK it will run. Might be worth reversing the terminals briefly to free a jammed pump.

HTH.

cool


blaze_away

1,502 posts

212 months

Friday 26th June 2020
quotequote all
Coefficient said:
OK, what you are all saying makes sense - looks like a trip to Halfords is on the cards. Lifting gear is fairly straightforward but when you say connect pump directly to battery, what kind of gear do I need to order? Do I need crimping tools? Connectors?

Cheers
This reply you've posted tells us you are at the beginning of learning maintenance as really all you need is 2 long wires with crocodile clips on each end.
They should be one Black wire and one Red wire.
Black connects to negative on the battery and negative on the pump. Red connects to battery positive and to the positive input to the pump. However, a word of caution, as we are having to give such basic advice i think it would be unwise of us to encourage you to go further on your own,
The consequences of having those 2 wires in close proximity to the pump, full of very flammable petrol. Should you have some sort of mishap and fuel and electrical sparks mix then you could be in a world of trouble.

This is not the job to start your learning on. The risks in my opinion far out way the benefits. Get this wrong could result in the loss of your car through fire, and even personal harm. I'm not trying to be alarmist just offering cautious advice.

Begin with something mechanical, like changing brake pads, do an oil and filter change and most importantly get yourself involved in a local 'car' facebook group and make some friends who can them help show and educate you. It won't be long before you are posting advice to others on here about what you've done.

If you want to talk just message me we can talk on the phone. We all have to start somewhere, none of us were born with knowledge, its all learnt.

Loubaruch

1,164 posts

197 months

Friday 26th June 2020
quotequote all
In my previous post I was assuming that you had basic maintenance knowledge and were looking for some guidance.

In the light of some of your questions it appears that while keen you are not familiar with basic electrics so to avoid a possible catastrophe I would take Blazeaway's advice and get someone experienced to sort your problem.





Edited by Loubaruch on Saturday 27th June 09:48

ukdj

1,004 posts

183 months

Saturday 27th June 2020
quotequote all
Hi,

Kent TVR run a mobile service & may travel out to you, worth a phone call

Regards

Ukdj

Zener

18,928 posts

220 months

Saturday 27th June 2020
quotequote all
Any mobile mechanic worth his oats can sort out a simple issue as a non functioning pump confused

ESDavey

700 posts

218 months

Saturday 27th June 2020
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Hi James,
I live in Weybridge so not far from you. Maybe call a local TVR shop like Fernhurst, Elmwood TVR or Mole Valley. I have heard that of a chap called David Batty (@DBTheGarage) who is in Guildford but I don’t know if he is currently working but worth a try.
Or search for a local Guildford mobile mechanic like https://www.mobilemechanicguildford.com/ ... no idea if TTS is good but TVRs are not complicated so a good experienced spanner waver should be able to help.
Good luck, Simon

phillpot

17,105 posts

182 months

Saturday 27th June 2020
quotequote all
Zener said:
Any mobile mechanic worth his oats can sort out a simple issue as a non functioning pump confused
No OBD port? Where do I go from here confused ........... biglaugh

QBee

20,903 posts

143 months

Saturday 27th June 2020
quotequote all
phillpot said:
Zener said:
Any mobile mechanic over 35 worth his oats can sort out a simple issue as a non functioning pump confused
No OBD port? Where do I go from here confused ........... biglaugh
EFA

Coefficient

Original Poster:

28 posts

66 months

Saturday 27th June 2020
quotequote all
OK. Thanks for the pointers. Especially the low profile jack. Fly lead to the Volvo turns the pump over. Neighbours voltmeter tells me ~50mV at the proper wires (12.7v at the battery for calibration ). Those wires don’t look in great shape. Do they ever?

I’ve had a look behind the B pillar and everything is at least connected. Not sure which wires to test. New relays seem to click when ignition switched, as did the old ones TBH. Don’t think it can be the new immobiliser as the it’s wired to the starter motor, like the old one. Can it be ECU related? I could hook up a Rover Gauge... probably a good idea, eh?

Cheers

James

Loubaruch

1,164 posts

197 months

Saturday 27th June 2020
quotequote all
You have made good progress, Your pump seems OK.

It is worth separating the plug/socket behind the B post and giving all contacts a good clean with emery etc. As damp can be a problem there.

If you wish to trace continuity to the pump ask your neighbour to measure the resistance from the live (+12v) pump wire to each connection at the plug /socket in the B post. One will be correct.The reading should be a fraction of an Ohm. Disconnect your TVR battery before making measurements!


blaze_away

1,502 posts

212 months

Saturday 27th June 2020
quotequote all
Looks like you've got the right sort of neighbour you need to learn by doing from.

You need to establish if power is getting to the pump on ignition on. Fitting a car bulb across the wires at the pump will tell you visually and for a more scientific approach follow the advice given below. You've done well so far and you've not called in a mechanic so good for you.

Loubaruch said:
You have made good progress, Your pump seems OK.

It is worth separating the plug/socket behind the B post and giving all contacts a good clean with emery etc. As damp can be a problem there.

If you wish to trace continuity to the pump ask your neighbour to measure the resistance from the live (+12v) pump wire to each connection at the plug /socket in the B post. One will be correct.The reading should be a fraction of an Ohm. Disconnect your TVR battery before making measurements!

Coefficient

Original Poster:

28 posts

66 months

Sunday 28th June 2020
quotequote all
I probably should have checked RGauge first. When the relays click, is it the ECU first, then the pump if the ECU is working? RGauge thinks it’s connected but not getting any info, unlike a couple of years ago when it diagnosed the lambda. OBD for the win... does the immobiliser connect to the ECU?
Cheers

Coefficient

Original Poster:

28 posts

66 months

Sunday 28th June 2020
quotequote all
My lack of electronics Knowledge is definitely a bit of a sticking point now. With the voltmeter I can see voltage and resistance between pins 85 and 86 on the ECU relay, hence the clock, but nothing between 30 and 87. So I would have expected no power to ECU but having read another thread, and hearing the stepper motor whirr, I would expect that there is power 🤔
Any idea what I’m doing wrong?
Cheers