1995 Griffith 500 restoration
Discussion
Some might recognise these rather worn and seized up rollers used on the front of the bonnet. Pictures above show one of mine that clearly wasn’t removed before the bonnet was painted. I sheared the bolt holding this one. The other side thankfully came out ok. Once the remainder of the sheared bolt is removed I can fit my new versions below.
My version has a slightly bigger hole in the centre to fit the top hat shape brass bearing.
The larger diameter on the back is instead of the loose spacer washer and once bolted back in place, the bolt won’t clap the roller solid but allow it to rotate freely. The bar between these rollers needs a bit of work also but that’s for another day.
So now the bar across the front underside of the bonnet that holds the bonnet prop/stay.
Picture below shows the ends cut off because they have split. The aluminium is very dirty and no matter how much cleaning would still be hard to weld properly. Also the bizarre way to hold in place with the back of a bolt of an already threaded insert. Very bad engineering from TVR.
With the split cut off I then threaded the outside of the tube. This is then screwed into a newly made part so now nothing within the tube to split it again. The new part I’ve compensated the cut off length which allows a new thread to be tapped within so the bolt holding the roller can be attached and everything bolted together nice and tight now. The brass inserts fitted within the bonnet will be drilled as a clearance hole for that m6 bolt.
Once I’ve checked the width of this modified part I’ll clean up the original bar and cover with a coat of etch primer and lovely satin black. I’ll keep the new ends in aluminium so it looks more TVR……if they had done it properly lol
Picture below shows the ends cut off because they have split. The aluminium is very dirty and no matter how much cleaning would still be hard to weld properly. Also the bizarre way to hold in place with the back of a bolt of an already threaded insert. Very bad engineering from TVR.
With the split cut off I then threaded the outside of the tube. This is then screwed into a newly made part so now nothing within the tube to split it again. The new part I’ve compensated the cut off length which allows a new thread to be tapped within so the bolt holding the roller can be attached and everything bolted together nice and tight now. The brass inserts fitted within the bonnet will be drilled as a clearance hole for that m6 bolt.
Once I’ve checked the width of this modified part I’ll clean up the original bar and cover with a coat of etch primer and lovely satin black. I’ll keep the new ends in aluminium so it looks more TVR……if they had done it properly lol
That bonnet bar is now fitted using a pair of stainless steel m6x60mm bolts. New rollers roll now unlike the seized up flat bottomed originals. Wiring is taking a little longer as I ordered the wrong size terminals so I’m still waiting for the correct size to be delivered.
Also finding a place to fit a heated seat button has been more difficult than expected. I’m using a Ford made button that illuminates green when the headlights are turned on and a small led light to show the heated seat circuit is on. These Ford buttons don’t use any relay for a 10am supply that helps keeps things a little simpler. I’m thinking of fitting these switch/buttons into the door panel arm rest in the cigar lighter position on each door. Reason is I need a bit of depth to fit the button and wiring. The centre console doesn’t allow that.
So a bit more wiring to do via the doors now.
Also finding a place to fit a heated seat button has been more difficult than expected. I’m using a Ford made button that illuminates green when the headlights are turned on and a small led light to show the heated seat circuit is on. These Ford buttons don’t use any relay for a 10am supply that helps keeps things a little simpler. I’m thinking of fitting these switch/buttons into the door panel arm rest in the cigar lighter position on each door. Reason is I need a bit of depth to fit the button and wiring. The centre console doesn’t allow that.
So a bit more wiring to do via the doors now.
Bowks said:
I love the attention to detail. I'm also making a list of all the things mine will need once I turn my attention to the interior.
Nothing more to add except, could you hurry up, I really enjoy the updates...
That last sentence made me chuckle. Nothing more to add except, could you hurry up, I really enjoy the updates...
Well a bit more detail on the seat switches then. The buttons originally fit a recess so the top of the switch is slightly proud of the surrounding trim. To do the same on the tvr door panel I need to carefully cut the button shape into the armrest. Then make a bracket to actually clip the switch in place but then secured through the fibreglass via countersunk fixings with the studs on the back to secure the bracket and switch in place. I have two versions of the button. First is a mk1 Ford Focus, the other is Jaguar s-type from the first interior pre-facelift. The Jaguar version has a slightly shaped top button but the actual back end of the switch and wiring plug is exactly the same as the focus. The Jaguar version is my preferred choice at the moment which I think would show just an oval shape similar to the tvr window button shape. Used Jaguar switches are currently cheaper than the mk1 focus version.
Once they arrive in the post I’ll put a few pictures up.
Door trim design I’ve had a little play with just marking the old carpet. I find it interesting playing with shapes trying to find that complementary shape to match existing shapes.
I don’t want a simple stitched pattern. I’m not a lover of the French stitch as it is a weak design. Single top stitch yes. Nothing overly piped but it could be done to give interest within a design. Something properly upholstered. The rough lines show an area to match the curves of the door pocket trim panel. I like that. That could be done in the same alcantara as the dash. So a curved part on the carpet and actual armrest panel within the leather surround. The tick looks a bit like a certain trainer logo but does help blend straight tuck and roll to a curve to the alcantara panel. A double pipe between the alcantara in leather and alcantara then the tick in plain leather with another alcantara pipe then the tuck and roll in perforated leather.
Sounds complicated but it’s getting two colours to highlight the shapes. Anyway just an idea
Heat seat switches arrived in the post earlier today. So these are Jag s-type parts and the wiring plugs are from a Ford Focus mk1. The blue wiring connector needed the two location tabs removed to click in place and that’s the only mod to get to fit. The brown connector fitted perfectly with no mods. Switch terminals are the same as the Ford. There is an extra terminal but that is the same on the Ford Focus switch. I only need 4 terminals. Two for the switch illumination and two for the heated seat circuit.
The switches with wiring are quite deep but I’ve had a measure and they will fit in the cigar lighter location lovely. I need to strip the door panels now so as I can fab up the mounting brackets and hardware to give a nice fit so just that oval shape is seen once properly trimmed and secured in place.
The switches with wiring are quite deep but I’ve had a measure and they will fit in the cigar lighter location lovely. I need to strip the door panels now so as I can fab up the mounting brackets and hardware to give a nice fit so just that oval shape is seen once properly trimmed and secured in place.
Made a start with the brackets to hold the heated seat buttons. These will take a while to get the final shape to fit under the armrest so went for a bit of aluminium rather than steel.
The machined hole didn’t take long as that was the easy bit. Something to potter with over the bank holiday.
Also spent a few more hours with the wiring. Spent ages threading the bigger gauge wire to power the windows up circuit through the original door conduit and rubber grommets to finish and then realise I forgot to add the heated seat wiring. Called it a day after that!
Finally started the new upholstery
Cutting the new panels in perforated leather.
I’ve just draped the leather over the foam to give an idea of the design with the new bolster fillets. Gives the impression of a slightly wider seat I think rather than the stripe down the middle kinda look
Cutting the new panels in perforated leather.
I’ve just draped the leather over the foam to give an idea of the design with the new bolster fillets. Gives the impression of a slightly wider seat I think rather than the stripe down the middle kinda look
Classic Chim said:
This is going to be a re worked Tvr with lovely engineering touches that make it the car Tvr could have made all along but hindsight and time is a wonderful thing.
Design changes of interior is a very personal thing so not sure I’d go too far off O/E but it’s great to see the artist at work.
Once you crack on working on these cars it’s surely very rewarding.
Patience and accepting it can take some time was my best attribute.
Keep up the graft mate.
I hope you take it to some big TVR day and I’m driving mine there to come see it and pick your brains.
Marvellous
Happy to meet up and chat when it’s completed Design changes of interior is a very personal thing so not sure I’d go too far off O/E but it’s great to see the artist at work.
Once you crack on working on these cars it’s surely very rewarding.
Patience and accepting it can take some time was my best attribute.
Keep up the graft mate.
I hope you take it to some big TVR day and I’m driving mine there to come see it and pick your brains.
Marvellous
macdeb said:
Looking good so far after your initial problems, and I like attention to detail too with things that many can't see. If I may add one thing, I hope that the dashboard matches the door surrounds and not door inserts as it keeps the 'flow' around the car iyswim. So many buyers got this wrong when speccing new looking like a replacement dash. It's subtle but makes all the difference imho making very nice into perfection. Check out some classifieds and you'll see. I know,,, 
Yes I understand that flow. Originally my car had a navy blue dash surround. Door surrounds were magnolia with navy blue carpet within the door surround and magnolia seats.So my car from the start didn’t flow. The Chimera interior design gave the ability to flow. Door surrounds could be two tone so the door tops matched the dash colour. The Griff door surround design doesn’t really allow that very easily. It’s something I’m still considering but I need exact measurements only available once the dash has been fitted.
The other way to flow is to get the whale tail centre console trim changed to match the dashboard so within the car the colours flow from the dash, between the seats and finish behind them. As I’ve used black alcantara that will be a little too much black. So I’m thinking a black alcantara panel where the gearstick and heater controls are then the rest in the saddle tan. The rear interior trim that holds the back of the roof will be in black alcantara too. So it should give that wrap around flow in black alcantara.
Then I’ll put some top stitch details on the saddle tan seats in black.
Once I get these seat cushions completed it should give a better idea of the final colour and finish. Be patient it’s all a complete one off.
Above shows the most cost effective fix to stop the cushion foams gradually being cheese cut by the sprung base. High temp spray glue and hessian. A nice and easy fix. Below shows the heated seat element fitted prior to the new cover being fitted
And finally below the new cover fitted to the seat frame. I think it’s a good classic style.
andrewbr said:
WOW! Are you taking commissions? 
There are certain parts of the original seat I need to reuse when making the new covers. If you can supply the original covers so I can remove the parts I need yes, better still supply the whole seat then I can fit the new covers and do any adjustments to suit the original foams. 
Zeb74 said:
This is outrageously beautiful!
Wow!
I want the same in my Chimaera, and what is very annoying is that seems so easy when we are watching to your pictures, this doesn't reflect you skills or the time you are spending. "Chapeau bas" as we say in France.
Thank you for the compliment Wow!
I want the same in my Chimaera, and what is very annoying is that seems so easy when we are watching to your pictures, this doesn't reflect you skills or the time you are spending. "Chapeau bas" as we say in France.
. Glad you like the pictures. I tried to keep the style classic but a little different to standard fit Griff and Chimaera Seats. The price of used Tuscan and Cerbera seats are very expensive now so I thought design a better cover for the standard seats to give a bit more interest and enhance the shape that’s already there.My originals were trashed by the specialist restorer and was given just the frames and foam parts with a single set of original covers that had been cut off. Those parts were the areas that hold the covers on so took a while to template the missing shapes.
There are small areas I can improve on but as this is my first set of TVR covers they have fitted remarkably well.
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