Things that have gone wrong with your Land Rover
Discussion
D3. 174k.
Getting a new turbo, glow plugs, final injector and all belts, tensioners and pumps changed.
Only the plugs and turbo are faulty. But i consider 13.5 years of use to be fair game.
Plugs are getting drilled out as they are seized in the heads.
Car is getting the body off to sort everything so going to get a few other bits changed while access is at it's best.
Goes in next month.
Then it's putting some miles on it before Le Man's as i'm bringing the camping trailer down and a 1600 mile round trip is going to be a laugh at 60 mph max.
Getting a new turbo, glow plugs, final injector and all belts, tensioners and pumps changed.
Only the plugs and turbo are faulty. But i consider 13.5 years of use to be fair game.
Plugs are getting drilled out as they are seized in the heads.
Car is getting the body off to sort everything so going to get a few other bits changed while access is at it's best.
Goes in next month.
Then it's putting some miles on it before Le Man's as i'm bringing the camping trailer down and a 1600 mile round trip is going to be a laugh at 60 mph max.
RRS SC, 2007, 120ishK miles.
MOT next month so I'm doing a couple of extra bits along with the annual oil change this week. New pads up front but while the wheels are off I'm putting a couple of these shiny new things under the arches.
The NSF was just starting to show signs of leaking with the poor car having lopsided droopy nose action after a couple of hours in the car park.
Straightforward to fit and not overly expensive at approx £330 for the pair (Active anti-roll bar model).
MOT next month so I'm doing a couple of extra bits along with the annual oil change this week. New pads up front but while the wheels are off I'm putting a couple of these shiny new things under the arches.
The NSF was just starting to show signs of leaking with the poor car having lopsided droopy nose action after a couple of hours in the car park.
Straightforward to fit and not overly expensive at approx £330 for the pair (Active anti-roll bar model).
Bad thing about running a Land Rover in the tropics - no AA to call out.
Bad thing - no spare windows available
Good thing - a new window can be made up locally for peanuts
Bad thing - pay peanuts, you are not getting Pilkington's finest
Good thing - who cares, it all adds to the character / scar tissue.
I have now owned my Defender for far longer than any other car I have run, it needs constant attention, but somehow it is OK.
Supposed to be going on an expedition to the Darien Gap next month, is that a good idea I ask myself. No, but I am still going.
D3. Tailgate unlock actuator died.
Tailgate stuck closed.
Monumental bawache trying to get the lower tailgate trim and carpet apart enough to get in near the actuator, then force the actuator casing apart to get in and pull the cable up to unlock the tailgate.
Then refit it all with new actuator and lock cable for it to somehow come apart a week later.
Somehow he cable had came out the locating slot and the retaining clips. Which should tb have happened and yes I did have them down. As they still were when I opened it up.
It’s now cable tied in place.
And yes. It came apart with the tailgate closed, so I had to repeat the fun of getting into it through the trim and carpet to open it.
Land Rover. Turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Tailgate stuck closed.
Monumental bawache trying to get the lower tailgate trim and carpet apart enough to get in near the actuator, then force the actuator casing apart to get in and pull the cable up to unlock the tailgate.
Then refit it all with new actuator and lock cable for it to somehow come apart a week later.
Somehow he cable had came out the locating slot and the retaining clips. Which should tb have happened and yes I did have them down. As they still were when I opened it up.
It’s now cable tied in place.
And yes. It came apart with the tailgate closed, so I had to repeat the fun of getting into it through the trim and carpet to open it.
Land Rover. Turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Cold said:
RRS SC, 2007, 120ishK miles.
MOT next month so I'm doing a couple of extra bits along with the annual oil change this week. New pads up front but while the wheels are off I'm putting a couple of these shiny new things under the arches.
The NSF was just starting to show signs of leaking with the poor car having lopsided droopy nose action after a couple of hours in the car park.
Straightforward to fit and not overly expensive at approx £330 for the pair (Active anti-roll bar model).
Thought I'd give a quick update to this. The new springs (bags) have totally transformed the front of the car and have demonstrated just how shagged the old set must have been. MOT next month so I'm doing a couple of extra bits along with the annual oil change this week. New pads up front but while the wheels are off I'm putting a couple of these shiny new things under the arches.
The NSF was just starting to show signs of leaking with the poor car having lopsided droopy nose action after a couple of hours in the car park.
Straightforward to fit and not overly expensive at approx £330 for the pair (Active anti-roll bar model).
It's already been polybushed and has good condition balljoints etc so was not a bad steer for an old clunker, but these new springs have made everything feel really tight and responsive. They damp the nose's mass very well yet allow a comfortable ride too.
This must be what new cars feel like.
I'll do the rears next month.
1980 Series III
New leaf springs front and rear
New front cross member
New drums all round
New passenger door top
New transfer box
New seats
New seat belts
New canvas tilt
New radiator
New exhaust and hangers
But it’s a 38 year old car.
And I love it to bits
New leaf springs front and rear
New front cross member
New drums all round
New passenger door top
New transfer box
New seats
New seat belts
New canvas tilt
New radiator
New exhaust and hangers
But it’s a 38 year old car.
And I love it to bits
Edited by Maldini35 on Saturday 2nd June 12:52
Cars home after it’s repairs.
We found a broken driveshaft and both front wheel bearings were on the way out. They were done 6 years ago so not terrible.
Can agree with the change of air struts. Mine had 175,392 miles on them when I changed them. Such a huge difference in ride comfort.
It wasn’t awful before but you could tell it was tired.
Tonight it leaves for Le Mans. A good run to bed everything in nicely.
We found a broken driveshaft and both front wheel bearings were on the way out. They were done 6 years ago so not terrible.
Can agree with the change of air struts. Mine had 175,392 miles on them when I changed them. Such a huge difference in ride comfort.
It wasn’t awful before but you could tell it was tired.
Tonight it leaves for Le Mans. A good run to bed everything in nicely.
Qwerty911 said:
I’ve always loved the slogan, “Landrover, making mechanics out if drivers!”. This certainly applied to my Disco3, which had several failures. But apart from shocking fuel consumption, my Disco4 did 110k faultless miles. My Disco5 arrives in August.
My favourite slogan: if you want to go into the desert, take a Land Rover. If you want to go into the desert and come out again, take a Land Cruiser.
I have a 1984 Series 3 ex RAF Regiment 109 FFR which I bought on Ebay for £1,900. As such it has had a fair few things go wrong with it. however I knew what I was getting into for that price. What horrifies me is the things that everyone is reporting as going wrong on cars that are meant to be "Premium" and have cost a decent amount of cash.
I did look at Discovery 2s but was put off by the reliability. I would like a Discovery 3 or 4 but have heard a number of horror stories about how often they disgrace themselves. I therefore went with the old Series Landy for the Beach/Dump/Mountain biking runs and on the rare occasions we need something really big I now hire something.
Anyway to stay on topic, items gone wrong/replaced so far, (It's 24v to add to the fun!) Still more to do but it drives safely.
Starter motor
Front prop shaft
shock bushes
Front diff oil seal
Rear diff oil seal
Door tops rusted out & replaced
Various relays
Thermostat
Bulkhead vent seals
Wiper motor
Front seat backs disintergrated
Brake Servo
Brake Master cylinder
Front Wheel cylinders
Rear view mirror (not fitted when purchased)
I did look at Discovery 2s but was put off by the reliability. I would like a Discovery 3 or 4 but have heard a number of horror stories about how often they disgrace themselves. I therefore went with the old Series Landy for the Beach/Dump/Mountain biking runs and on the rare occasions we need something really big I now hire something.
Anyway to stay on topic, items gone wrong/replaced so far, (It's 24v to add to the fun!) Still more to do but it drives safely.
Starter motor
Front prop shaft
shock bushes
Front diff oil seal
Rear diff oil seal
Door tops rusted out & replaced
Various relays
Thermostat
Bulkhead vent seals
Wiper motor
Front seat backs disintergrated
Brake Servo
Brake Master cylinder
Front Wheel cylinders
Rear view mirror (not fitted when purchased)
Tempest_5 said:
I have a 1984 Series 3 ex RAF Regiment 109 FFR which I bought on Ebay for £1,900. As such it has had a fair few things go wrong with it. however I knew what I was getting into for that price. What horrifies me is the things that everyone is reporting as going wrong on cars that are meant to be "Premium" and have cost a decent amount of cash.
That's the mistake that people make.These are not "premium" vehicles... they are "unique" vehicles, in that there are very few alternatives.
Even less now that production has stopped.
My 100" Bowler had it's ignition relay coil fail last night, a Lucas SRB501 - this part less than three years service.
I replaced it with the relay for the spot lights...
I can't think of another occasion where I've found a relay with a burnt-out coil on 12 or 24 Volt vehicle installations.
The previous ignition / crank relays were Durite branded parts and lasted some seventeen years. I used Lucas when I rebuilt the car because I thought they would be "better" quality...stick with what you know!
I replaced it with the relay for the spot lights...
I can't think of another occasion where I've found a relay with a burnt-out coil on 12 or 24 Volt vehicle installations.
The previous ignition / crank relays were Durite branded parts and lasted some seventeen years. I used Lucas when I rebuilt the car because I thought they would be "better" quality...stick with what you know!
Got back from trip to find my Defender battery dead as a pancake.
No problem - a chance to use my new super-duty 20 foot jump leads.
Connected it to my Toyota Land Cruiser but nada - no way was the Defender going to start.
Battery now fully charged thanks to a local battery technician.
Who tells me my alternator is f
ked - it is only putting out 12.17 volts when it needs to put out a minimum of 13.4 volts to keep the battery charged while the engine is running.
Will all the parts on my Land Rover ever work at the same time?
No problem - a chance to use my new super-duty 20 foot jump leads.
Connected it to my Toyota Land Cruiser but nada - no way was the Defender going to start.
Battery now fully charged thanks to a local battery technician.
Who tells me my alternator is f
ked - it is only putting out 12.17 volts when it needs to put out a minimum of 13.4 volts to keep the battery charged while the engine is running.Will all the parts on my Land Rover ever work at the same time?
Edited by Ayahuasca on Wednesday 18th July 10:31
1994 RR Classic Vogue SE 3.9 V8
- 2 suspension airbags
- Gearbox oil cooler (stone on the motorway made a hole in it!)
- Alternator
- Door handle
- Saggy headlining
- Upper tailgate
2003 Range Rover L322 4.4 V8
- Mlltiple suspension bushes
- Alternator
- Water Pump
- Auxiliary coolant pump
- Radiator
- Engine stripdown to replace gaskets to stop oil leak
- Transmisson oil/water heat exchanger
- Air conditioning compressor
- Rear Wiper motor
- Gearbox*
- Torque converter*
'* I finally sold it when the grumbling noises from underneath were traced to a knackered torque converter which required its replacement, plus a gearbox rebuild.
I loved both, but it's another Classic I'll be having next. Once my finances have recovered from the L322, obviously...
- 2 suspension airbags
- Gearbox oil cooler (stone on the motorway made a hole in it!)
- Alternator
- Door handle
- Saggy headlining
- Upper tailgate
2003 Range Rover L322 4.4 V8
- Mlltiple suspension bushes
- Alternator
- Water Pump
- Auxiliary coolant pump
- Radiator
- Engine stripdown to replace gaskets to stop oil leak
- Transmisson oil/water heat exchanger
- Air conditioning compressor
- Rear Wiper motor
- Gearbox*
- Torque converter*
'* I finally sold it when the grumbling noises from underneath were traced to a knackered torque converter which required its replacement, plus a gearbox rebuild.
I loved both, but it's another Classic I'll be having next. Once my finances have recovered from the L322, obviously...
Just over 3500 miles since mine had its work done and it’s behaving itself nicely.
Which is nice.
The project 80 had to get a new fuel pump, battery and starter.
The starter was the original and it’s a 901 number 2:25 engine from the 70s. Which is a long time for a starter.
Battery because it’s many many years old.
Fuel pump was an old Facet fuel pump.
All changed and it’s running sweet.
Next up, brakes and suspension.
Then wiring.
The joy of an old trials car that’s been made from whatever was lying around.
Which is nice.
The project 80 had to get a new fuel pump, battery and starter.
The starter was the original and it’s a 901 number 2:25 engine from the 70s. Which is a long time for a starter.
Battery because it’s many many years old.
Fuel pump was an old Facet fuel pump.
All changed and it’s running sweet.
Next up, brakes and suspension.
Then wiring.
The joy of an old trials car that’s been made from whatever was lying around.
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