Range Rover L322 - Strange electrical problem

Range Rover L322 - Strange electrical problem

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poordecisions

Original Poster:

198 posts

101 months

Monday 11th September 2017
quotequote all
Hi All,

I have a V8 L322 which I've owned for the longest of any car I've had before - 2.5 years!

It really is excellent and I've taken it from 100 to 141k miles with ease and hardly any issues, ticking along on LPG.

A few months ago I had a coil pack up on me whilst in Devon. Luckily I had a spare in the boot and changed it in the car park of the holiday place but since then I've had a strange electrical issue which whilst is not a "problem", is annoying.

Here's the symptoms:

When I get in the car and turn the key on, all is fine.
When I turn it off, then turn it back on again the trip counter resets and the temperature changes from celcius to fahrenheight.
Turn if off and on again, the trip counter resets itself and the temperature changes from fahrenheight to celcius.

Along with this, the clock seems to go haywire every few days overnight and changes the time. I'll get in the car at 8am on Monday 4th November and it'll suddenly be the 1st and 18:08...

Strangley the MPG and average speed bits are perfectly fine.

What I have done so far:

Recharged the battery (no help)
Changed the battery for a new Yuasa (no help)
Replaced another coil after failure (no help)
Had it cleaned (psychologically great, but no help)

I've swapped engines, worked on my own cars and play around with motorbikes so I'm not a complete novice. Electrical systems are just not my cup of tea so I'd appreciate it if anyone has any ideas!?

Will

deltaevo16

755 posts

171 months

Monday 11th September 2017
quotequote all
Hi Will
Have you done a hard ECU reset?
Not sure a reset occurs when the battery is changed. Just a thought and easy to do.

Regards
Nick

poordecisions

Original Poster:

198 posts

101 months

Monday 11th September 2017
quotequote all
deltaevo16 said:
Hi Will
Have you done a hard ECU reset?
Not sure a reset occurs when the battery is changed. Just a thought and easy to do.

Regards
Nick
Hi Nick,

Touch the two terminals together? If so, I've tried that.

I'm considering replacing the ECU, but no doubt that isn't as simple as it could be...

Will

deltaevo16

755 posts

171 months

Monday 11th September 2017
quotequote all
Hi Will

Thought you might have done a reset, everything I've found on the issue, relates to a poor performing battery, Although you have changed yours whats the output from it? Not teaching a granny to suck eggs BTW smile

Nick

poordecisions

Original Poster:

198 posts

101 months

Monday 11th September 2017
quotequote all
deltaevo16 said:
Hi Will

Thought you might have done a reset, everything I've found on the issue, relates to a poor performing battery, Although you have changed yours whats the output from it? Not teaching a granny to suck eggs BTW smile

Nick
I actually replaced the battery as a last resort!...

Any idea on if the ECU is easily replaced or is a rigmarole that is worse than converting fahrenheight into Celsius every day?

deltaevo16

755 posts

171 months

Monday 11th September 2017
quotequote all
TBH Will think the ECU swap will be a faff as the immobiliser codes will need sorting out, think that's a dealer job.

They can throw wobblers that's for sure, I've tried searching for your symptoms and like I said they all point to battery issues. Personally I would live with the inconvenience, you never know it may well clear itself.

How's your LPG running btw?

gizlaroc

17,251 posts

224 months

Wednesday 13th September 2017
quotequote all
Have you done a draw test to make sure the car is going to sleep properly and something isn't keeping it awake?

I would do that and see what it says when it sleeps, should be around 0.025-0.050 amps ideally.
Even up to 0.200 amps would be liveable, any more than that and you need to start pulling fuses to see what is not turning off properly.

I had similar similar problems and it was my bluetooth module. It had got wet and was not shutting down.