2007 Discovery 3 - would you?
Discussion
wormus said:
eck c said:
Good lad, remember most places still have to the remove body from chassis for timing belt change on the D4
Eh? Is it different to the D3 then? Edited by eck c on Sunday 24th September 11:18
Edited by eck c on Sunday 24th September 11:20
wormus said:
eck c said:
Indeed it is, when is your D4 due to be done?
It's only done 60k miles....although mine is a MY2012 so not that far off 
It was one of the things that put me off moving onto a D4 a few years ago, I'm not on the Disco forums much these days so not best placed to answer you question but I believe a local Indy was able to do it with fancy mirrors & long reach things?
Edited by wormus on Sunday 24th September 13:01
A.J.M said:
My local indy doesn't remove the body for belts for D4s.
They are more complex than the D3 as the fuel pump belt at the back of the engine is timed so needs careful refitting unlike the D3 which isn't timed. It's 7 years or 112k I think for the belts.
So if you go for a 2007 the belts should have already been done.They are more complex than the D3 as the fuel pump belt at the back of the engine is timed so needs careful refitting unlike the D3 which isn't timed. It's 7 years or 112k I think for the belts.
Got a 2005 D3 with 160K on it, front diff needed replacing around 140K and on my fourth rotary coupling (drivers airbag unit, easy to change yourself) but apart from that it's been quite solid.
Oh except for the ECU going into limp home mode once a month (just turn it on and off resets it so no issue) but this is pretty common.
I think they're great but do have my eye on a final model D4 now.
Oh except for the ECU going into limp home mode once a month (just turn it on and off resets it so no issue) but this is pretty common.
I think they're great but do have my eye on a final model D4 now.
bakerstreet said:
- Glow plugs. Do some reading on that. If they are fooked, you need to be prepared for a £2k bill to replace them.
There is an alternative which I have on my 2005 Disco which is a pre-heater. It can be a bit fiddly to get going, but it makes starting in cold weather really easy. It cost around £300. The glow plugs on mine have clearly had it.The other alternative to that is take it to a specialist who has the correct equipment to drill the plugs out should they snap.
Mine is going to York in the spring/summer to get mine removed and replaced.
My fbh is as dead as Salmonds political career so this is my way of getting it sorted.
Rather amusingly, mine still starts fine even at -7.
Mine is going to York in the spring/summer to get mine removed and replaced.
My fbh is as dead as Salmonds political career so this is my way of getting it sorted.
Rather amusingly, mine still starts fine even at -7.
johnhemming said:
There is an alternative which I have on my 2005 Disco which is a pre-heater. It can be a bit fiddly to get going, but it makes starting in cold weather really easy. It cost around £300. The glow plugs on mine have clearly had it.
I had the Altox on mine, yes, its cheaper than a heads off job (Unlikely, but can still happen). Pre Heater kits were and still are a common recommendation for D3s with knackered plugs but I believe the independents are better at plug removal these days, I would say get them done and squirt a load of WD40 at them over a week before it goes the garage. Gives them a fighting chance. Yes, the timer kits are good, but in the end you want a car that starts with no faff and the timer kits are a little bit of faff. People install them to mask a problem!
Small update: I sold my D3 two weeks ago for a variety of reasons. Had it two and half years and change in circumstances meant it had to go. Also I was getting fed up with the maintenance. It was almost every six months and mine was a good one too!
Ilovejapcrap said:
Reading this they come across as fekin money pits.
Fair comment or not ?
I’ve had 2 discos. First one (a D3) for 7 years and the current one (D4) for almost 4. Both have been fine but they are complicated cars and you must Stan in top of maintenance. Just buy one that’s been cared for. D4 is the better car without doubt.Fair comment or not ?
wormus said:
I’ve had 2 discos. First one (a D3) for 7 years and the current one (D4) for almost 4. Both have been fine but they are complicated cars and you must Stan in top of maintenance. Just buy one that’s been cared for. D4 is the better car without doubt.
Utter bo&%$cks. Mine came with a stack of history and it still cost over a grand a year. I'd say about 10% of the cost was normal servicing (Oil and filters change). Stamp in the book also means next to nothing too. The handbrakes can be an absolute pain. Granted, I paid a garage to do work on mine and it would be much cheaper if I did things myself, but I just don't have the confidence anymore. These really are cars you must do your research on. Expect them to be sold with issue as why do you think people are getting rid of them?!!
The inspection list on the facebook group is a lengthy document....Gives you a clue as to what you are getting your self in for.
bakerstreet said:
Utter bo&%$cks. Mine came with a stack of history and it still cost over a grand a year. I'd say about 10% of the cost was normal servicing (Oil and filters change). Stamp in the book also means next to nothing too. The handbrakes can be an absolute pain. Granted, I paid a garage to do work on mine and it would be much cheaper if I did things myself, but I just don't have the confidence anymore.
These really are cars you must do your research on. Expect them to be sold with issue as why do you think people are getting rid of them?!!
The inspection list on the facebook group is a lengthy document....Gives you a clue as to what you are getting your self in for.
Well mine have been fine but then I don’t try to run them for 5p a year. That’s not bThese really are cars you must do your research on. Expect them to be sold with issue as why do you think people are getting rid of them?!!
The inspection list on the facebook group is a lengthy document....Gives you a clue as to what you are getting your self in for.
ks, it’s the truth. Mine has been costly to keep on top fettle, but I need it for work and have learned the hard way that cheaper parts don’t last. So paid the extra for Genuine stuff and it’s been better.
I’ve had a couple of unexpected issues and have spent some cash sorting that wasn’t necessarily needed but something I wanted.
Injectors going bad was unexpected.
Replacing all 4 air struts at 175,*** miles was maybe unnecessary but made a huge difference to the ride.
I’ve had a couple of unexpected issues and have spent some cash sorting that wasn’t necessarily needed but something I wanted.
Injectors going bad was unexpected.
Replacing all 4 air struts at 175,*** miles was maybe unnecessary but made a huge difference to the ride.
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