3.9i into Defender

3.9i into Defender

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Discussion

CAPP0

Original Poster:

19,577 posts

203 months

Thursday 4th January 2018
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I have it in my head that I want to convert my 3.5 manual V8 Defender to auto, and potentially the easiest/best way to do so would be to get hold of a rotten D1 and lift all the bits I need out before weighing the rest in.

I'm fairly confident the engine will bolt straight in and I'm not too fazed about the gearbox potentially needing different mounts. I have a few propshafts lying about and worst case I can get them shortened. I've had the engine and box out of mine a couple of times, it's no massive deal.

I'm not planning to use the existing lump and mate an auto box to it. mostly because it's one of the low-compression jobs and whilst it's lovely and reliable, it doesn't have that much punch.

Main concern is over the ECU (and the fuel pump). I guess I may need a higher-pressure fuel pump than I currently have. And the ECU - how difficult would that be to wire in? I've got plenty of diagrams, just not sure how much additional wiring I'll need over the standard loom?

I know there are options like Megasquirt but I don't want to over-egg the task so if I can just hook up a regular ECU then all good.

Any other pitfalls I haven't clocked?



100SRV

2,132 posts

242 months

Friday 5th January 2018
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Keep everything standard - it works and has thousands of hours of development behind it.

When I added EFi to my Bowler I kept the lift pump which fed the SU carburetters and used it to feed a swirl pot which then supplied the EFi pump. Simple and effective. All this lives under the bonnet so it is easy to access.

CAPP0

Original Poster:

19,577 posts

203 months

Wednesday 10th January 2018
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Sorry, I never replied to this!

Thanks, useful info. Looking out for the donor now!

100SRV

2,132 posts

242 months

Tuesday 16th January 2018
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CAPP0 said:
Sorry, I never replied to this!

Thanks, useful info. Looking out for the donor now!
You are welcome, if you want to see any photos of my engine installation I am happy to help.

CAPP0

Original Poster:

19,577 posts

203 months

Thursday 18th January 2018
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Thanks for that.

Another question from me. Looking around for scrap Discos, there seem to be more D2s than D1s for some reason. Difference is that the D2 has the 4.0 engine (and I think a different injection system to the 3.9?). I'm reasonably familiar with the 3.9 setup so that would be my preference but would the 4.0 also bolt straight in? And what other pitfalls might there be? Is that the version which suffers from liner slip?

Interestingly I called my insurance co to ask about any effect on premium for going 3.5 manual to 3.9 auto - the answer, a whole £16 p.a. biggrin

CAPP0

Original Poster:

19,577 posts

203 months

Sunday 1st April 2018
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Just flagging this one back up. I now have the donor vehicle and when (if!) the weather improves, I'll set about the job.

Whilst I can probably flog my way through the wiring required to transplant the ECU and associated controls/sensors, it would be good to see what someone else has done re this. I've searched all manner of things trying to find out (for example, someone must have dropped this lump into a kit car in the past, as well as a Defender) but I can't find anything. If anyone can point me at any helpful resources, that would be great, thanks.

wheelbarrowman

29 posts

111 months

Monday 2nd April 2018
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I am about to convert my 84 110 to efi.

I would guess your donor vehicle is a hotwire type efi setup.

If you Google for 14cux efi or 14cux hotwire you'll find loads of resources. Some useful YouTube videos looking at sensors and wiring looms.

You may wish to check the status of the camshaft on your replacement engine before slotting it in.

100SRV

2,132 posts

242 months

Monday 2nd April 2018
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wheelbarrowman said:
I am about to convert my 84 110 to efi.

I would guess your donor vehicle is a hotwire type efi setup.

If you Google for 14cux efi or 14cux hotwire you'll find loads of resources. Some useful YouTube videos looking at sensors and wiring looms.

You may wish to check the status of the camshaft on your replacement engine before slotting it in.
What he said, wise words Mr Wheelbarrowman.

Don't forget that you will need an electronic Road speed signal so that idle speed is correctly controlled. Pm me if you need help with that.

CAPP0

Original Poster:

19,577 posts

203 months

Monday 2nd April 2018
quotequote all
100SRV said:
wheelbarrowman said:
I am about to convert my 84 110 to efi.

I would guess your donor vehicle is a hotwire type efi setup.

If you Google for 14cux efi or 14cux hotwire you'll find loads of resources. Some useful YouTube videos looking at sensors and wiring looms.

You may wish to check the status of the camshaft on your replacement engine before slotting it in.
What he said, wise words Mr Wheelbarrowman.

Don't forget that you will need an electronic Road speed signal so that idle speed is correctly controlled. Pm me if you need help with that.
Thanks both.

Yes, it's the hotwire setup with the Lucas MAF sensor. Just had a quick google on 14cux and there is lots coming up, thank you. I had been googling "3.9i wiring" and variation on that.

Camshaft did cross my mind. The Defender currently has a low compression 3.5 on carbs and that would also probably be in need of a cam if I was keeping it. General rule is c. 100k miles iirc?

100, I'll have to drop you a line then as the road speed signal is a new one on me, not sure what that's about.

Jammez

661 posts

207 months

Wednesday 4th April 2018
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I've just rebuilt my 3.9 from my classic, I found the guide on the Act website useful for the injection system. I'm currently working through all the little problems to get it to run perfectly. I've just ordered a cable to allow me to connect up a laptop and run the rovergauge software to give me all the diagnostic stuff too. I have an ecu mate but it's pretty basic stuff it tells you whereas the rovergauge should be much more comprehensive.

www.actproducts.co.uk/2011/lucas-14cux-fuel-inject...




CAPP0

Original Poster:

19,577 posts

203 months

Wednesday 4th April 2018
quotequote all
Cheers for that. I have Rovergauge from when I had the RRC.

My plan, I think, is to try and isolate the entire engine, ECU etc from the car and get it running with the key components screwed to a board, so that I know it runs in isolation before I get rid of the hulk it came from and so that I know what I need when I drop it into the Defender.

There's lots of useful info around (thanks to the posters above for that) although I still haven't quite got my head around how much of the Disco loom I need, and conversely what I can discard.

CAPP0

Original Poster:

19,577 posts

203 months

Sunday 27th May 2018
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wheelbarrowman said:
Some useful YouTube videos looking at sensors and wiring looms.
I went off and hunted yesterday (been a busy few months on other stuff!) and found this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=NkH5l...

which is the answer to all my prayers (so far!). Tells me exactly what I need to retrieve from the Disco and what to do with it when I've got it.

I kept reading things like "you only need 4 wires for a 14CUX" but nobody ever said what those were or where they went, but here we are.

I think I'll drag all that out to underneath the bonnet on the Disco and then check I can still start it before I finally remove it all.

I'll be back with more questions I'm sure, such as fuel pump/swirl pot, and whether or to to use the lambdas (and how)!

CAPP0

Original Poster:

19,577 posts

203 months

Saturday 23rd June 2018
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Latest update on this:

I dragged all the relevant loom sections, relays and ECU into the engine bay so that they were completely disconnected from the car, and then set about running temporary wires to convince myself that I could get the engine running independent of the Disco. Took me a couple of goes but this afternoon it ran thumbup One small step for man, but I'm rather pleased with myself. Now the I've achieved that, the rest is simple. Ish. biggrin I've no qualms about the nuts & bolts bit, so it will just be things like the speed sensor mentioned above, the safety switch on the gearbox, etc.

I managed to completely knacker my back a week ago, so today I was OK standing in front of the car and crimping/connecting wires, but I can't do much else just yet. Once I'm fixed I'll be looking at dragging the lump out and getting rid of the hulk, before the fun really starts.

robertf03

59 posts

201 months

Saturday 30th June 2018
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that 4 wires is misleading. It would look like a plate of spaghetti if thats all that you had to hook up

Did this one a few months ago




CAPP0

Original Poster:

19,577 posts

203 months

Saturday 30th June 2018
quotequote all
robertf03 said:
that 4 wires is misleading. It would look like a plate of spaghetti if thats all that you had to hook up

Did this one a few months ago

That's a very neat looking install, I like what you've done with the air filter.

All I had to do to get the 3.9 running independent of the Disco was:

- 12v permanent power to the ECU
- 12v switched (spoofing ignition on) to the coil
- 12v pulse cable from coil to ECU
- 12v to starter solenoid


100SRV

2,132 posts

242 months

Saturday 30th June 2018
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Don't forget the road speed signal wires.

Without road speed signal it won't control idle speed correctly when you are driving.


CAPP0

Original Poster:

19,577 posts

203 months

Sunday 1st July 2018
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100SRV said:
Don't forget the road speed signal wires.

Without road speed signal it won't control idle speed correctly when you are driving.
Thanks, yes, that one is on my list, I'll drop you a PM as per your previous comment.

Edited by CAPP0 on Sunday 1st July 15:12

CAPP0

Original Poster:

19,577 posts

203 months

Friday 10th August 2018
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I don't know what was going on with my phone, it's a terrible photo, but.......progress has been made cool




(Yes, I cheated and zipped out the middle of the slam panel on the Disco. In my defence, this was done 100% single-handed, on the drive, I'm scrapping the Disco anyway and it meant less lift height needed. It's all removable on the Defender.

CAPP0

Original Poster:

19,577 posts

203 months

Friday 7th June 2019
quotequote all
Thread resurrection time!

Well, whilst things stalled a little over the winter (time constraints plus I'm too old to be rolling around on a frosty drive), the latest is that....drum roll please....I have a running V8i in the Defender cool

I went for the Defender pump/swirl pot/HP pump option as per 100SRV above. Works fine so far, I won't know whether it shifts enough fuel until I get to drive it properly. It's ticking over OK at present but I do still need to connect the cabling from the rear of the gearbox which I think will give me the speed sensor (although not drive the speedo, thats another thing to tackle, looking at the TD5 electronic speedo option currently).

It's been interesting coming up with engineering solutions to various things, and still got a long way to go, and I have to sort all the wiring properly, which brings me to.....ECU location.

Those of you who have this conversion installed, where's your engine ECU located? My engine and loom came out of the Disco, and I gather the ECU loom is shorter than that in the RRC, which means that bolting it to the rear bulkhead isn't an option (unless I buy and swap the loom which I'm less than keen to do). Current thoughts are in the battery box, under the centre cubby, or fabricating something when I make up the new transmission tunnel to include it in that. I remember reading somewhere that someone had put it under the steering column but I think it's a bit big for that. Also need to be mindful of not drowning it - not that I drive through waist-deep water, but it's a consideration.

I'd also be interested to know what people have done about an air filter? Current thinking is to fab a bracket to hold the MAF onto the inner wing and use a cone filter - not ideal but there's no room for a big airbox.

Hoping to get a few more bits done this weekend and to bolt the props on so that I can just run it up the road.

paintman

7,683 posts

190 months

Friday 7th June 2019
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Mine - '86 RRC 3.5EFi - has the ECU under the driver's seat.

They're not THAT big so you just need somewhere to put it. Inside a plastic box if it's in the engine bay to keep water off would work.