Landrover 110 SW V8
Discussion
Hi All,
New to this so please excuse any mistakes.
So, I am the proud owner of an old Landrover 110 SW V8 1986 which has been dry stored for circa 15 years. In a mad moment of brain relapse I decided to restore the old girl. So far all has been going well and now near completion. Sadly the engine is suffering low oil pressure when hot, whilst cold pressure is as it should be but drops off when hot at idle. Please note it's only done 117,000 miles.
Before deciding to do a complete engine rebuild I thought it might be worth checking out the oil pump etc. My question is, is it possible to remove the oil pump and drive gears without removing the dizzy and timing cover and refit?
Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks
New to this so please excuse any mistakes.
So, I am the proud owner of an old Landrover 110 SW V8 1986 which has been dry stored for circa 15 years. In a mad moment of brain relapse I decided to restore the old girl. So far all has been going well and now near completion. Sadly the engine is suffering low oil pressure when hot, whilst cold pressure is as it should be but drops off when hot at idle. Please note it's only done 117,000 miles.
Before deciding to do a complete engine rebuild I thought it might be worth checking out the oil pump etc. My question is, is it possible to remove the oil pump and drive gears without removing the dizzy and timing cover and refit?
Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks
You would be better going on a LR specific forum such as Landyzone.
The V8 needs a good mineral oil, modern synthetics are too thin & should not be used. I use 15/40 ('86 RRC 3.5EFi) but 20/50 is also good. They are low pressure but move a large volume of oil. Manual figure for mine when idling warm is given as 30 to 40 psi.
How are you diagnosing low pressure? If the oil warning light is flickering at idle then check the level, that you are using a mineral oil & then replace the oil sender switch. I've replaced two over the 24 years I've owned mine. If you have access to a suitable ACCURATE pressure gauge - not the cheapie things fitted in many dashboards - then you could check using that.
I also recommend getting a LR workshop manual - I have both the LR & the Haynes for mine & whilst the Haynes is OKish the LR one covers everything. You may be able to find one online: http://www.landroverweb.com/landrover/pdf-land-rov...
The oil pump is fitted on the lower right (UK offside) of the timing cover. The shaft from the dizzy has a gear which is driven by the camshaft & the bottom of the shaft fits into & drives the oil pump. I've not removed the oil pump from mine on its own but looking at the manual I see no reason why it couldn't be removed without disturbing anything else. Pack it completely with petroleum jelly before refitting or it won't prime.
If you do want to remove the dizzy it's straightforward. Set to No1 TDC on compression stroke & check the relationship of the timing mark on the crank pulley to its pointer & mark with a dot of white paint.
If yours is electronic DO NOT pull the rotor arm off without pressing down on the 8-pointed star shaped thing under the rotor arm as you pull or you will almost certainly disengage the advance/retard mech in the lower part of the dizzy bowl. Refittable but a faff. I don't know if that also applies to the points type. If it's really stuck break it up & fit a new one - NOT one of the type with the metal strip riveted to the plastic.
Use white paint dots or lines to mark the relative positions of the dizzy to the engine & the rotor arm to the dizzy body. Note that the dizzy drive is angled so the rotor arm will rotate as you remove it. Mark this second position as you need to put it in this position to replace.
The V8 needs a good mineral oil, modern synthetics are too thin & should not be used. I use 15/40 ('86 RRC 3.5EFi) but 20/50 is also good. They are low pressure but move a large volume of oil. Manual figure for mine when idling warm is given as 30 to 40 psi.
How are you diagnosing low pressure? If the oil warning light is flickering at idle then check the level, that you are using a mineral oil & then replace the oil sender switch. I've replaced two over the 24 years I've owned mine. If you have access to a suitable ACCURATE pressure gauge - not the cheapie things fitted in many dashboards - then you could check using that.
I also recommend getting a LR workshop manual - I have both the LR & the Haynes for mine & whilst the Haynes is OKish the LR one covers everything. You may be able to find one online: http://www.landroverweb.com/landrover/pdf-land-rov...
The oil pump is fitted on the lower right (UK offside) of the timing cover. The shaft from the dizzy has a gear which is driven by the camshaft & the bottom of the shaft fits into & drives the oil pump. I've not removed the oil pump from mine on its own but looking at the manual I see no reason why it couldn't be removed without disturbing anything else. Pack it completely with petroleum jelly before refitting or it won't prime.
If you do want to remove the dizzy it's straightforward. Set to No1 TDC on compression stroke & check the relationship of the timing mark on the crank pulley to its pointer & mark with a dot of white paint.
If yours is electronic DO NOT pull the rotor arm off without pressing down on the 8-pointed star shaped thing under the rotor arm as you pull or you will almost certainly disengage the advance/retard mech in the lower part of the dizzy bowl. Refittable but a faff. I don't know if that also applies to the points type. If it's really stuck break it up & fit a new one - NOT one of the type with the metal strip riveted to the plastic.
Use white paint dots or lines to mark the relative positions of the dizzy to the engine & the rotor arm to the dizzy body. Note that the dizzy drive is angled so the rotor arm will rotate as you remove it. Mark this second position as you need to put it in this position to replace.
Edited by paintman on Thursday 20th September 10:57
Hi,
Thanks for the info, great help, much appreciated.
Already using a good mineral oil. The warning light was flickering so fitted a gauge, (electric) to get a better reading, plus tested with an external gauge to make sure the reading was the same, which they were, just about. My plan was to remove the pump, check gaps for wear, clean up and or replace using a repair kit if needed plus I note the availability of an upraded release valve spring which is claimed gives up to an extra 10psi of pressure, which if works would solve the problem for now. No doubt I'll do a complete rebuild at some point but funds or time won't allow just yet. Have a workshop manual but it doesn't make it completely clear as to whether the job can be done without removal of front cover or dizzy etc so thought I'd check. As long as I can relocate the drive shaft on the gear with the dizzy I shouldn't have a problem, I hope, which was my concern.
Thanks for the info, great help, much appreciated.
Already using a good mineral oil. The warning light was flickering so fitted a gauge, (electric) to get a better reading, plus tested with an external gauge to make sure the reading was the same, which they were, just about. My plan was to remove the pump, check gaps for wear, clean up and or replace using a repair kit if needed plus I note the availability of an upraded release valve spring which is claimed gives up to an extra 10psi of pressure, which if works would solve the problem for now. No doubt I'll do a complete rebuild at some point but funds or time won't allow just yet. Have a workshop manual but it doesn't make it completely clear as to whether the job can be done without removal of front cover or dizzy etc so thought I'd check. As long as I can relocate the drive shaft on the gear with the dizzy I shouldn't have a problem, I hope, which was my concern.
Have a look at a pic of a dizzy.
The gear you can see is what meshes with the gear on the camshaft.
The bottom of the dizzy shaft has what looks like a rectangular female slot in it.
This just fits onto the rectangular male peg sticking up from the pump.
If refitting a dizzy it can sometimes take a couple of goes to match them up, just pull the dizzy back out & reposition the male peg.
Another way of priming & getting oil round the engine after rebuild/replacing the camshaft - or other work - is to put a rod with an appropriately shaped end down the hole the dizzy occupies to locate in the slot & spin it with a drill. If you've got the heads off & want to see if the oilway is clear I'd suggest turning the rod with your fingers not a drill or you'll be amazed just how far the jet of oil will go.......
Did the top end on mine last year, I've no idea what the actual mileage is on the engine as it was replaced just before I bought it & I've done over 100k.
Replaced camshaft, followers, timing gears & chain. Used Elring composite head gaskets. Note that the cam & followers must be replaced together with new - don't use old followers with a new cam or vice versa. If reusing the old cam & followers they must go back into their original positions.
Valves out, new springs, couple of minutes with a hand sucker to re-do the valve seats which were in excellent nick.
I stripped & cleaned the rocker assemblies & there was a lot of crap in them, with several of the rocker arms oil holes being all but blocked & needed a gentle probe with a bit of wire to allow a squirt of brake & clutch cleaner to flush it out. As I dismantled the rocker assembly I put the bits onto a wooden dowel so they also went back into their original positions.
ETA What grade oil are you using - might be worth trying 20/50 if you're not already using it.
The gear you can see is what meshes with the gear on the camshaft.
The bottom of the dizzy shaft has what looks like a rectangular female slot in it.
This just fits onto the rectangular male peg sticking up from the pump.
If refitting a dizzy it can sometimes take a couple of goes to match them up, just pull the dizzy back out & reposition the male peg.
Another way of priming & getting oil round the engine after rebuild/replacing the camshaft - or other work - is to put a rod with an appropriately shaped end down the hole the dizzy occupies to locate in the slot & spin it with a drill. If you've got the heads off & want to see if the oilway is clear I'd suggest turning the rod with your fingers not a drill or you'll be amazed just how far the jet of oil will go.......
Did the top end on mine last year, I've no idea what the actual mileage is on the engine as it was replaced just before I bought it & I've done over 100k.
Replaced camshaft, followers, timing gears & chain. Used Elring composite head gaskets. Note that the cam & followers must be replaced together with new - don't use old followers with a new cam or vice versa. If reusing the old cam & followers they must go back into their original positions.
Valves out, new springs, couple of minutes with a hand sucker to re-do the valve seats which were in excellent nick.
I stripped & cleaned the rocker assemblies & there was a lot of crap in them, with several of the rocker arms oil holes being all but blocked & needed a gentle probe with a bit of wire to allow a squirt of brake & clutch cleaner to flush it out. As I dismantled the rocker assembly I put the bits onto a wooden dowel so they also went back into their original positions.
ETA What grade oil are you using - might be worth trying 20/50 if you're not already using it.
Edited by paintman on Friday 21st September 09:11
Hi, Presently using Morris Lubricants Golden Film SAE 15w-50 Classic Motor Oil. I did debate over the 20w-50 version, D'ya think the 20w would make any improvement? I was under the impression that the lower number was for the cold viscosity/weight, which at present gives me a normal pressure reading, but I'm open to your suggestions.
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