Active Dynamic Fault - But Why?

Active Dynamic Fault - But Why?

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smjhb-123

Original Poster:

8 posts

54 months

Monday 17th February 2020
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Hi All,

I have a 2010 RR L322 5.0 S/C

A few months ago now I was driving along and all of a sudden the dashboard screen came up with an "Active Dynamic Fault" warning. This was intermittent, and then became more constant. I looked online and saw that it's a fairly common problem and it's usually down to frayed/split wiring connections on top of the struts in the engine bay.

I took it to my local, trusted independent. They plugged it into the computer, and the fault code read that the rear (right?) active dynamic sensor was the fault. They ordered a new one, fitted it into the car - as I drove away from the workshop, the warning light came back on.

We tried re-setting the computer, and this didn't work. I took the car back for something else (wiper related), and they had a look again at the dynamic fault issue, but couldn't find anything. None of the usual loose/frayed wire connections that I see in most forums - everything seems fine. They cleaned out all of the sensors and connectors for me, but still the same problem.

I did a "hard reset" on the car (took the fuse out and put it back in), and this seemed to work for about 10 days. Now the warning light is back, and the "hard reset" method isn't helping me out anymore.

I just wondered whether anyone had suffered the same issue and whether they had any other suggestions of what it could be that's causing me grief?

It'd just be good to know if it's a simple little niggle that can be sorted easily before I go and spend a fortune on labour hours to get someone to run through the entire wiring system.

Piersman2

6,596 posts

198 months

Monday 17th February 2020
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Mine did that when I first bought it nearly 5 years ago, I suspect it's one of the reasons the car was cheaper than most at the time smile.

Anyways, 10 minutes with a soldering iron on the front strut wires and it was all sorted.

A common issue apparently. If I was you I'd be inspecting very closely the wires coming out of the front top struts, especially the front driver side.

The code indicating rear could be right, or it could be wrong. But 1 minute to pop the bonnet and check the wires on the front struts could save a lot of grief and expense.