The 3D Printer Thread
Discussion
Ah ok fair enough. Seems a bit of a faff if you want to change the nozzle size. I like to switch between 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 depending on what I am printing so that would be a bit of a ballache for me, as it is I just raise the hotend temp, remove nozzle and replace but I also can't print at the speed a P1P can so I guess thats (one of) the trade off.
geeks said:
Ah ok fair enough. Seems a bit of a faff if you want to change the nozzle size. I like to switch between 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 depending on what I am printing so that would be a bit of a ballache for me, as it is I just raise the hotend temp, remove nozzle and replace but I also can't print at the speed a P1P can so I guess thats (one of) the trade off.
I've looked at the different slicer settings in bambu slicer for the various nozzle sizes and determined that there's not really any benefit to larger nozzles, the 0.4 is fast and nicely detailed. The only thing I was tempted to go bigger on was for TPU to reduce nozzle pressure to reduce stringing but I've got that nailed on 0.4 now anyway. For what it's worth I can swap a complete hot end on my p1p in a minute anyway...
I see Cura 5.3.0 is now out - I have 5.2.1 installed on my desktop which is where I do my slicing, but in order to try things out, I also have it on my laptop but without most of my changed settings etc. I thought I'd do a clean install on my laptop so I could transfer my desktop settings across, so I uninstalled V5.2.1, but when I then installed 5.3.0, it 'remembered' my old settings, so knew I have an Ender 5 with a 0.6 nozzle.
How can I do a completely clean install of 5.3.0 without it remembering my settings from old installations?
How can I do a completely clean install of 5.3.0 without it remembering my settings from old installations?
Yazza54 said:
geeks said:
Ah ok fair enough. Seems a bit of a faff if you want to change the nozzle size. I like to switch between 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 depending on what I am printing so that would be a bit of a ballache for me, as it is I just raise the hotend temp, remove nozzle and replace but I also can't print at the speed a P1P can so I guess thats (one of) the trade off.
I've looked at the different slicer settings in bambu slicer for the various nozzle sizes and determined that there's not really any benefit to larger nozzles, the 0.4 is fast and nicely detailed. The only thing I was tempted to go bigger on was for TPU to reduce nozzle pressure to reduce stringing but I've got that nailed on 0.4 now anyway. For what it's worth I can swap a complete hot end on my p1p in a minute anyway...
I am surprised you aren't getting much of a speed uplift looking at nozzle sizes, changing from a 0.45 line width and a 0.28 layer height to a 0.66 line width with a 0.48 layer height gives a massive time saving for me but then I am on an Ender 3 Neo
Dave. said:
There's probably a folder in your appdata folder containing all the settings.
C:/users/***/appdata/roaming
You might need to turn on hidden folders if it's not there.
Cheers - now deleted - there was a Cura folder in Local as well, so now that's also gone. Should now allow me to do a clean install with no preconfigured bits.C:/users/***/appdata/roaming
You might need to turn on hidden folders if it's not there.
I have an Ender 3 Neo that I really can't fault. Comes with CR Touch built in, decent bed size, its a Bowden setup but you can print a carriage to mount the extruder motor onto and its almost direct drive. Mine came direct from Creality buts its well stocked elsewhere. The Prusa MK3 has excellent feedback as well but is a little more upfront. The there is the next up something like a P1P. Really I would say its about budget rather than "beginner" also depends on how much a of tinkerer you are, the P1P is closed source for example, however there are literally endless upgrades for an Ender 3 series printer.
I bought a Creality CR6SE from Technology Outlet just over a year ago, a stock printer and it came the next day. No affiliations other than being a customer, when I'm tempted onto the upgrade path I'll look at what they offer again.
https://technologyoutlet.co.uk/
I had no idea how these things worked so I went for one with a self levelling bed to make life easier. It worked out of the box, the only significant thing I did was junk the PLA it came with for what I consider to be a better consumable (eSUN PLA+). That alone improved the print quality.
https://technologyoutlet.co.uk/
I had no idea how these things worked so I went for one with a self levelling bed to make life easier. It worked out of the box, the only significant thing I did was junk the PLA it came with for what I consider to be a better consumable (eSUN PLA+). That alone improved the print quality.
geeks said:
I have an Ender 3 Neo that I really can't fault. Comes with CR Touch built in, decent bed size, its a Bowden setup but you can print a carriage to mount the extruder motor onto and its almost direct drive. Mine came direct from Creality buts its well stocked elsewhere. The Prusa MK3 has excellent feedback as well but is a little more upfront. The there is the next up something like a P1P. Really I would say its about budget rather than "beginner" also depends on how much a of tinkerer you are, the P1P is closed source for example, however there are literally endless upgrades for an Ender 3 series printer.
I've read a lot of people on Reddit moving away from prusa to bambu lab P1PI am biased here but my P1P is so good I can't fathom how the X1 is worth another 500 quid or so.
I've only been 3D printing for a few months but so far I have successfully printed PLA, ASA, TPU (95A) and also been playing with ePA-CF this weekend with excellent results after a little tweaking. It's a brilliant machine.
Whether it's worth it to you to spend the extra on a P1P over an Ended entirely depends upon what you want to do with it, are your prints gonna be functional, will you use it much or is it just a curiosity purchase?
I don't think anyone here who's used both would recommend an Ender product over a P1P.
After a lot of reading I am thinking of going for an Ender-3 S1 Pro. Currently on sale at £349.00
Questions....
You can get it £20 cheaper on Box. Is worth saving £20? I.e to buy from 3rd party in case of any problems?
I want to print in NylonX but I read that it needs purging in a heater first. That I can deal with but is the S1 Pro ok for this material? Everything I have read says it is... but I just wanted to check.
Also, when running does the machine produce any fumes or anything like that? I guess as its melting plastic there will be some plastic smells...
I would also like to print ABS too.
I am mostly printing small parts, roughly the size of say deck of cards, often quite a bit smaller.
Thanks!
Questions....
You can get it £20 cheaper on Box. Is worth saving £20? I.e to buy from 3rd party in case of any problems?
I want to print in NylonX but I read that it needs purging in a heater first. That I can deal with but is the S1 Pro ok for this material? Everything I have read says it is... but I just wanted to check.
Also, when running does the machine produce any fumes or anything like that? I guess as its melting plastic there will be some plastic smells...
I would also like to print ABS too.
I am mostly printing small parts, roughly the size of say deck of cards, often quite a bit smaller.
Thanks!
No visible fumes but there's the odd smell but nothing terrible really.
Remember if you wanna print anything like nylon X i.e. carbon filled you need hardened steel nozzle, metal hotend etc. Yes it's hygroscopic and absorbes moisture, like most plastics do, it's just extra absorbent and therefore needs drying and storing well with dessicant.
For ABS/ASA you are best printing with an enclosure as it can warp and have poor layer adhesion. Print hot and with your fan off, unless you have some overhangs then a bit of fan but not too much.
Remember if you wanna print anything like nylon X i.e. carbon filled you need hardened steel nozzle, metal hotend etc. Yes it's hygroscopic and absorbes moisture, like most plastics do, it's just extra absorbent and therefore needs drying and storing well with dessicant.
For ABS/ASA you are best printing with an enclosure as it can warp and have poor layer adhesion. Print hot and with your fan off, unless you have some overhangs then a bit of fan but not too much.
Hardened steel gears fitted, easy to do. Did print the extruder gear holder tool to help you tap it out but it came out easily so didn't end up using it.
Zero wear on original stainless gears, will just keep them spare. Still convinced this is overkill but hey ho.
Easy to see why the extruder chewed up TPU for fun on the standard tensioner setting, the extruder spring is very heavy duty, with the tensioner Allen bolt wound all the way in it has around 6mm or so of preload on it. For TPU it literally just needs to be enough to seat the spring as the extruder wheels are knurled and therefore good and grippy as it is. For any hard filaments though I'll continue to use it fully nipped up as I haven't had any clogging issues with anything else like ASA, PLA or PA-CF.
Zero wear on original stainless gears, will just keep them spare. Still convinced this is overkill but hey ho.
Easy to see why the extruder chewed up TPU for fun on the standard tensioner setting, the extruder spring is very heavy duty, with the tensioner Allen bolt wound all the way in it has around 6mm or so of preload on it. For TPU it literally just needs to be enough to seat the spring as the extruder wheels are knurled and therefore good and grippy as it is. For any hard filaments though I'll continue to use it fully nipped up as I haven't had any clogging issues with anything else like ASA, PLA or PA-CF.
Edited by Yazza54 on Thursday 23 March 10:21
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