The 3D Printer Thread
Discussion
I've bitten the bullet and order a printer...
What sort of spec PC do people recommend for running the latest 3DP design apps? Minimum spec is one thing but we all know there's a big margin between something working and something working well.
Currently using a 2017 Razer Blade 15 with a 1080Ti. I no longer use a PC for work so a desktop would be absolutely fine... Do I have an excuse to build a new PC?
Thanks in advance.
What sort of spec PC do people recommend for running the latest 3DP design apps? Minimum spec is one thing but we all know there's a big margin between something working and something working well.
Currently using a 2017 Razer Blade 15 with a 1080Ti. I no longer use a PC for work so a desktop would be absolutely fine... Do I have an excuse to build a new PC?
Thanks in advance.
Edited by Baldchap on Thursday 23 March 15:22
Baldchap said:
I've bitten the bullet and order a printer...
What sort of spec PC do people recommend for running the latest 3DP design apps? Minimum spec is one thing but we all know there's a big margin between something working and something working well.
Currently using a 2017 Razer Blade 15 with a 1080Ti. I no longer use a PC for work so a desktop would be absolutely fine... Do I have an excuse to build a new PC?
Thanks in advance.
I think you'll be fine for know. The spec to run cura simplify ect is pretty minimal and they run quite fast.What sort of spec PC do people recommend for running the latest 3DP design apps? Minimum spec is one thing but we all know there's a big margin between something working and something working well.
Currently using a 2017 Razer Blade 15 with a 1080Ti. I no longer use a PC for work so a desktop would be absolutely fine... Do I have an excuse to build a new PC?
Thanks in advance.
Edited by Baldchap on Thursday 23 March 15:22
However it depeneds on how far down the rabbit hole you want to go in future.
I ended up with solidworks because I wanted something that could design for a 3d printer and a CNC mill at the same time. Solidworks is a bit of a beast when it comes to a computer. But I tend to use a 3d printer only to make a mold for aluminium, and then use a CNC mill to tidy everything up
For everythign I've ever done in 3d printing and probably including solidworks your set up is fine.
Depends on printer. The ender ones I have been looking at come with the slicing software which is just a reskin of a popular free program.
They usually include a small quantity of filament too. But in reality you will want to buy your own.
Then on top of that you will need some sort of CAD software to make the models - some free versions are out there. Or payware.
Then just basic tools, maybe an enclosure, maybe a spool dryer etc. I think a lot of that depends on what you intend to print.
They usually include a small quantity of filament too. But in reality you will want to buy your own.
Then on top of that you will need some sort of CAD software to make the models - some free versions are out there. Or payware.
Then just basic tools, maybe an enclosure, maybe a spool dryer etc. I think a lot of that depends on what you intend to print.
The biggest thing they don't come with is "patience". You will no doubt need quite a bit of it
Seriously as suggested CAD and slicer can be free.
I use Fusion 360, only draw back aprt from learning it is the free one only allows 8 active projects but i just switch old projects to inactive and start a new one.
Cura has always been a good slicer for me.
Seriously as suggested CAD and slicer can be free.
I use Fusion 360, only draw back aprt from learning it is the free one only allows 8 active projects but i just switch old projects to inactive and start a new one.
Cura has always been a good slicer for me.
ARHarh said:
The biggest thing they don't come with is "patience". You will no doubt need quite a bit of it
Seriously as suggested CAD and slicer can be free.
I use Fusion 360, only draw back aprt from learning it is the free one only allows 8 active projects but i just switch old projects to inactive and start a new one.
Cura has always been a good slicer for me.
Just export it to a file, it's like a save as. Seriously as suggested CAD and slicer can be free.
I use Fusion 360, only draw back aprt from learning it is the free one only allows 8 active projects but i just switch old projects to inactive and start a new one.
Cura has always been a good slicer for me.
Prusa have released their new printer, the Original Prusa Mk4
Assembled - £1,054.80
Kit - £790.80
Upgrades available to make a mk3 into a mk3.5 (£241), mk3.9 (£495) or mk4 (£568)
Bed slinger
32bit board
Appears to be the same frame and size, although one print bed dimension is 10mm larger than the mk3 (250x210x220 v 250x210x210)
New extruder and printhead using planetary gear system, quick change nozzle system.
3.5" colour touch screen
force sensor for bed levelling
Input Shaper and Pressure Advance
Lan connectivity and optional Wi-Fi
Faster, apparently can do a benchy in 20mins (draft mode).
Creality a teasing a new printer (K1 series) due 9th April
tag lines seem to be 'King of speed' and 'AI camera sees all'
Assembled - £1,054.80
Kit - £790.80
Upgrades available to make a mk3 into a mk3.5 (£241), mk3.9 (£495) or mk4 (£568)
Bed slinger
32bit board
Appears to be the same frame and size, although one print bed dimension is 10mm larger than the mk3 (250x210x220 v 250x210x210)
New extruder and printhead using planetary gear system, quick change nozzle system.
3.5" colour touch screen
force sensor for bed levelling
Input Shaper and Pressure Advance
Lan connectivity and optional Wi-Fi
Faster, apparently can do a benchy in 20mins (draft mode).
Creality a teasing a new printer (K1 series) due 9th April
tag lines seem to be 'King of speed' and 'AI camera sees all'
Edited by Russ35 on Thursday 30th March 12:49
I've been given the go ahead to get a Bambu X1 Carbon with AMS.
What other bits should I get from them at the same time, to get started? I'm new to the world of 3D printing, so not sure if its the same as with 2D printing where you get just a token amount of ink in the test cartridge. Is that the same with filament?
Any different types of materials?
If we try different materials, do I need to go for different nozzles?
Going to be outputting my files from Solidworks, and then using Bambu Studio (which I have already downloaded and had a cursory play with).
Any guides on material selection for parts etc
Sorry for all the novice questions - but I am exactly that! Keen to get started though, and appreciate that there is a certain amount of trial by error.
What other bits should I get from them at the same time, to get started? I'm new to the world of 3D printing, so not sure if its the same as with 2D printing where you get just a token amount of ink in the test cartridge. Is that the same with filament?
Any different types of materials?
If we try different materials, do I need to go for different nozzles?
Going to be outputting my files from Solidworks, and then using Bambu Studio (which I have already downloaded and had a cursory play with).
Any guides on material selection for parts etc
Sorry for all the novice questions - but I am exactly that! Keen to get started though, and appreciate that there is a certain amount of trial by error.
Wing Commander said:
I've been given the go ahead to get a Bambu X1 Carbon with AMS.
What other bits should I get from them at the same time, to get started? I'm new to the world of 3D printing, so not sure if its the same as with 2D printing where you get just a token amount of ink in the test cartridge. Is that the same with filament?
Any different types of materials?
If we try different materials, do I need to go for different nozzles?
Going to be outputting my files from Solidworks, and then using Bambu Studio (which I have already downloaded and had a cursory play with).
Any guides on material selection for parts etc
Sorry for all the novice questions - but I am exactly that! Keen to get started though, and appreciate that there is a certain amount of trial by error.
From memory it comes with part spools of PLA, PA-CF and PLA support material to get you going.What other bits should I get from them at the same time, to get started? I'm new to the world of 3D printing, so not sure if its the same as with 2D printing where you get just a token amount of ink in the test cartridge. Is that the same with filament?
Any different types of materials?
If we try different materials, do I need to go for different nozzles?
Going to be outputting my files from Solidworks, and then using Bambu Studio (which I have already downloaded and had a cursory play with).
Any guides on material selection for parts etc
Sorry for all the novice questions - but I am exactly that! Keen to get started though, and appreciate that there is a certain amount of trial by error.
If you are new to printing I'd just look at a couple of rolls of PLA to begin with. I've not had a bad PLA print out of mine yet (on both Bambu or "non bargain basement" third party materials).
I've not felt the need to rush and try a different nozzle size although I might have a play at some point.
One thing I'd recommend is ordering the PEI plate. It's more durable and less messy than using glue stick on the standard plate.
Wing Commander said:
Any different types of materials?
If we try different materials, do I need to go for different nozzles?
If we try different materials, do I need to go for different nozzles?
Wing Commander said:
Any guides on material selection for parts etc
As you're capable to design your own geometries, I guess you'll print more functional parts than dust collectors like dragon heads et alPLA - will degrade quickly, even faster outdoors
PETG - resistant against some solvents; hard to paint, hard to glue, good for eg filler caps
ABS - good to glue with acetone, easy to paint, surface treatment with acetone vapour possible
ASA - same as ABS plus better UV resistance (ie. car parts)
TPU - elastic, many uses, hard to paint and glue
PA, PC-ABS, PP - higher performance, but very expensive. Only use for parts where common materials have their limits
Those materials with wood/metal/fibre/etc additives require a harder nozzle; but IMO they only have novelty value, and are not needed for functional parts.
I use PLA only for throwaway parts, and I'm still on my first roll that was delivered with the printer. My recommendation: get a roll of PETG, ASA and TPU each, and start testing with your designs.
I found PLA only degrades outside in direct sunlight, high heat. Otherwise doesn't seem to degrade at all.
Am still using PLA as a hinge on an ikea seat, parts for the garage, and the whole of my printer, is printed in PLA and they are all over five years old with one of the first BIG BOX printers. No sign of any degradation in any of them.
Am still using PLA as a hinge on an ikea seat, parts for the garage, and the whole of my printer, is printed in PLA and they are all over five years old with one of the first BIG BOX printers. No sign of any degradation in any of them.
Russ35 said:
Prusa have released their new printer, the Original Prusa Mk4
Assembled - £1,054.80
Kit - £790.80
Upgrades available to make a mk3 into a mk3.5 (£241), mk3.9 (£495) or mk4 (£568)
Bed slinger
32bit board
Appears to be the same frame and size, although one print bed dimension is 10mm larger than the mk3 (250x210x220 v 250x210x210)
New extruder and printhead using planetary gear system, quick change nozzle system.
3.5" colour touch screen
force sensor for bed levelling
Input Shaper and Pressure Advance
Lan connectivity and optional Wi-Fi
Faster, apparently can do a benchy in 20mins (draft mode).
Creality a teasing a new printer (K1 series) due 9th April
tag lines seem to be 'King of speed' and 'AI camera sees all'
Proper ladder pricing in effect there. I was going to buy the MK4 upgrade kit when i saw it's not really that much more to get a whole new unit (and other 6 fun hours of building it).Assembled - £1,054.80
Kit - £790.80
Upgrades available to make a mk3 into a mk3.5 (£241), mk3.9 (£495) or mk4 (£568)
Bed slinger
32bit board
Appears to be the same frame and size, although one print bed dimension is 10mm larger than the mk3 (250x210x220 v 250x210x210)
New extruder and printhead using planetary gear system, quick change nozzle system.
3.5" colour touch screen
force sensor for bed levelling
Input Shaper and Pressure Advance
Lan connectivity and optional Wi-Fi
Faster, apparently can do a benchy in 20mins (draft mode).
Creality a teasing a new printer (K1 series) due 9th April
tag lines seem to be 'King of speed' and 'AI camera sees all'
Edited by Russ35 on Thursday 30th March 12:49
Bodo said:
As you're capable to design your own geometries, I guess you'll print more functional parts than dust collectors like dragon heads et al
PLA - will degrade quickly, even faster outdoors
PETG - resistant against some solvents; hard to paint, hard to glue, good for eg filler caps
ABS - good to glue with acetone, easy to paint, surface treatment with acetone vapour possible
ASA - same as ABS plus better UV resistance (ie. car parts)
TPU - elastic, many uses, hard to paint and glue
PA, PC-ABS, PP - higher performance, but very expensive. Only use for parts where common materials have their limits
Those materials with wood/metal/fibre/etc additives require a harder nozzle; but IMO they only have novelty value, and are not needed for functional parts.
I use PLA only for throwaway parts, and I'm still on my first roll that was delivered with the printer. My recommendation: get a roll of PETG, ASA and TPU each, and start testing with your designs.
This is really useful for newbies, thank you.PLA - will degrade quickly, even faster outdoors
PETG - resistant against some solvents; hard to paint, hard to glue, good for eg filler caps
ABS - good to glue with acetone, easy to paint, surface treatment with acetone vapour possible
ASA - same as ABS plus better UV resistance (ie. car parts)
TPU - elastic, many uses, hard to paint and glue
PA, PC-ABS, PP - higher performance, but very expensive. Only use for parts where common materials have their limits
Those materials with wood/metal/fibre/etc additives require a harder nozzle; but IMO they only have novelty value, and are not needed for functional parts.
I use PLA only for throwaway parts, and I'm still on my first roll that was delivered with the printer. My recommendation: get a roll of PETG, ASA and TPU each, and start testing with your designs.
So where would you recommend purchasing non-crap spools of plastic?
Baldchap said:
This is really useful for newbies, thank you.
So where would you recommend purchasing non-crap spools of plastic?
https://devildesign.com/en/oferta/ - for smaller amounts use one of their resellers. Good price/quality ratio with strong pigments.So where would you recommend purchasing non-crap spools of plastic?
Baldchap said:
Bodo said:
As you're capable to design your own geometries, I guess you'll print more functional parts than dust collectors like dragon heads et al
PLA - will degrade quickly, even faster outdoors
PETG - resistant against some solvents; hard to paint, hard to glue, good for eg filler caps
ABS - good to glue with acetone, easy to paint, surface treatment with acetone vapour possible
ASA - same as ABS plus better UV resistance (ie. car parts)
TPU - elastic, many uses, hard to paint and glue
PA, PC-ABS, PP - higher performance, but very expensive. Only use for parts where common materials have their limits
Those materials with wood/metal/fibre/etc additives require a harder nozzle; but IMO they only have novelty value, and are not needed for functional parts.
I use PLA only for throwaway parts, and I'm still on my first roll that was delivered with the printer. My recommendation: get a roll of PETG, ASA and TPU each, and start testing with your designs.
This is really useful for newbies, thank you.PLA - will degrade quickly, even faster outdoors
PETG - resistant against some solvents; hard to paint, hard to glue, good for eg filler caps
ABS - good to glue with acetone, easy to paint, surface treatment with acetone vapour possible
ASA - same as ABS plus better UV resistance (ie. car parts)
TPU - elastic, many uses, hard to paint and glue
PA, PC-ABS, PP - higher performance, but very expensive. Only use for parts where common materials have their limits
Those materials with wood/metal/fibre/etc additives require a harder nozzle; but IMO they only have novelty value, and are not needed for functional parts.
I use PLA only for throwaway parts, and I'm still on my first roll that was delivered with the printer. My recommendation: get a roll of PETG, ASA and TPU each, and start testing with your designs.
So where would you recommend purchasing non-crap spools of plastic?
Yes, the parts we will be printing will be more functional than decorative. Think custom shaped electrical boxes, tool/sensor holders, rapid prototype parts for proof of concept etc.
I will also be "testing" the machine making some things that may or may not be useful for my campervan etc!
Edited by Wing Commander on Friday 31st March 20:13
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