The 3D Printer Thread

Author
Discussion

Russ35

2,491 posts

239 months

Thursday 23rd March 2023
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I didn't need the extractor tool.

Was dead easy swapping the gears, but trying to get that last ribbon cable from the extruder plugged back in was a nightmare, Its still not seated properly but appears to work now. I was just getting an error saying that the cutter arm was stuck.


Yazza54

18,508 posts

181 months

Thursday 23rd March 2023
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Strange, found it all very easy. Not the first time I've had it apart though as I've had the nozzles out a few times.

Baldchap

7,634 posts

92 months

Thursday 23rd March 2023
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I've bitten the bullet and order a printer...

What sort of spec PC do people recommend for running the latest 3DP design apps? Minimum spec is one thing but we all know there's a big margin between something working and something working well.

Currently using a 2017 Razer Blade 15 with a 1080Ti. I no longer use a PC for work so a desktop would be absolutely fine... Do I have an excuse to build a new PC?

Thanks in advance. thumbup

Edited by Baldchap on Thursday 23 March 15:22

jbswagger

734 posts

201 months

Friday 24th March 2023
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Is it a case that you need a powerful computer to use one? I was hoping to use my existing laptop

S6PNJ

5,182 posts

281 months

Friday 24th March 2023
quotequote all
I either use an i3-3110M laptop or an i5-3470T with a GTX470 GPU, so nothing powerful at all. I use Cura as my slicer. Obviously a more powerful system will run CAD software more easily but I'm only currently designing in Tinkercad at the moment.

F1natic

460 posts

56 months

Friday 24th March 2023
quotequote all
Slicing time and PC overhead using Cura depends on print geometry. Simple shapes with low tesselation on the STL file process with low end equipment easy. Large intricate shapes at max resolution take a long time to convert to gcode so depends on your goals.

julian64

14,317 posts

254 months

Friday 24th March 2023
quotequote all
Baldchap said:
I've bitten the bullet and order a printer...

What sort of spec PC do people recommend for running the latest 3DP design apps? Minimum spec is one thing but we all know there's a big margin between something working and something working well.

Currently using a 2017 Razer Blade 15 with a 1080Ti. I no longer use a PC for work so a desktop would be absolutely fine... Do I have an excuse to build a new PC?

Thanks in advance. thumbup

Edited by Baldchap on Thursday 23 March 15:22
I think you'll be fine for know. The spec to run cura simplify ect is pretty minimal and they run quite fast.
However it depeneds on how far down the rabbit hole you want to go in future.

I ended up with solidworks because I wanted something that could design for a 3d printer and a CNC mill at the same time. Solidworks is a bit of a beast when it comes to a computer. But I tend to use a 3d printer only to make a mold for aluminium, and then use a CNC mill to tidy everything up

For everythign I've ever done in 3d printing and probably including solidworks your set up is fine.

jbswagger

734 posts

201 months

Saturday 25th March 2023
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Hi

Do the 3d printers suggested have all the stuff to start printing. Or do you extra need software or hardware as well

gotoPzero

17,232 posts

189 months

Saturday 25th March 2023
quotequote all
Depends on printer. The ender ones I have been looking at come with the slicing software which is just a reskin of a popular free program.
They usually include a small quantity of filament too. But in reality you will want to buy your own.

Then on top of that you will need some sort of CAD software to make the models - some free versions are out there. Or payware.

Then just basic tools, maybe an enclosure, maybe a spool dryer etc. I think a lot of that depends on what you intend to print.


ARHarh

3,755 posts

107 months

Saturday 25th March 2023
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The biggest thing they don't come with is "patience". You will no doubt need quite a bit of it smile

Seriously as suggested CAD and slicer can be free.

I use Fusion 360, only draw back aprt from learning it is the free one only allows 8 active projects but i just switch old projects to inactive and start a new one.

Cura has always been a good slicer for me.

Yazza54

18,508 posts

181 months

Saturday 25th March 2023
quotequote all
ARHarh said:
The biggest thing they don't come with is "patience". You will no doubt need quite a bit of it smile

Seriously as suggested CAD and slicer can be free.

I use Fusion 360, only draw back aprt from learning it is the free one only allows 8 active projects but i just switch old projects to inactive and start a new one.

Cura has always been a good slicer for me.
Just export it to a file, it's like a save as.

Russ35

2,491 posts

239 months

Thursday 30th March 2023
quotequote all
Prusa have released their new printer, the Original Prusa Mk4

Assembled - £1,054.80
Kit - £790.80
Upgrades available to make a mk3 into a mk3.5 (£241), mk3.9 (£495) or mk4 (£568)

Bed slinger
32bit board
Appears to be the same frame and size, although one print bed dimension is 10mm larger than the mk3 (250x210x220 v 250x210x210)
New extruder and printhead using planetary gear system, quick change nozzle system.
3.5" colour touch screen
force sensor for bed levelling
Input Shaper and Pressure Advance
Lan connectivity and optional Wi-Fi
Faster, apparently can do a benchy in 20mins (draft mode).


Creality a teasing a new printer (K1 series) due 9th April
tag lines seem to be 'King of speed' and 'AI camera sees all'





Edited by Russ35 on Thursday 30th March 12:49

Wing Commander

2,181 posts

232 months

Friday 31st March 2023
quotequote all
I've been given the go ahead to get a Bambu X1 Carbon with AMS.

What other bits should I get from them at the same time, to get started? I'm new to the world of 3D printing, so not sure if its the same as with 2D printing where you get just a token amount of ink in the test cartridge. Is that the same with filament?

Any different types of materials?
If we try different materials, do I need to go for different nozzles?

Going to be outputting my files from Solidworks, and then using Bambu Studio (which I have already downloaded and had a cursory play with).

Any guides on material selection for parts etc

Sorry for all the novice questions - but I am exactly that! Keen to get started though, and appreciate that there is a certain amount of trial by error.


egomeister

6,700 posts

263 months

Friday 31st March 2023
quotequote all
Wing Commander said:
I've been given the go ahead to get a Bambu X1 Carbon with AMS.

What other bits should I get from them at the same time, to get started? I'm new to the world of 3D printing, so not sure if its the same as with 2D printing where you get just a token amount of ink in the test cartridge. Is that the same with filament?

Any different types of materials?
If we try different materials, do I need to go for different nozzles?

Going to be outputting my files from Solidworks, and then using Bambu Studio (which I have already downloaded and had a cursory play with).

Any guides on material selection for parts etc

Sorry for all the novice questions - but I am exactly that! Keen to get started though, and appreciate that there is a certain amount of trial by error.
From memory it comes with part spools of PLA, PA-CF and PLA support material to get you going.

If you are new to printing I'd just look at a couple of rolls of PLA to begin with. I've not had a bad PLA print out of mine yet (on both Bambu or "non bargain basement" third party materials).

I've not felt the need to rush and try a different nozzle size although I might have a play at some point.

One thing I'd recommend is ordering the PEI plate. It's more durable and less messy than using glue stick on the standard plate.

Bodo

12,375 posts

266 months

Friday 31st March 2023
quotequote all
Wing Commander said:
Any different types of materials?
If we try different materials, do I need to go for different nozzles?
Wing Commander said:
Any guides on material selection for parts etc
As you're capable to design your own geometries, I guess you'll print more functional parts than dust collectors like dragon heads et al

PLA - will degrade quickly, even faster outdoors
PETG - resistant against some solvents; hard to paint, hard to glue, good for eg filler caps
ABS - good to glue with acetone, easy to paint, surface treatment with acetone vapour possible
ASA - same as ABS plus better UV resistance (ie. car parts)
TPU - elastic, many uses, hard to paint and glue
PA, PC-ABS, PP - higher performance, but very expensive. Only use for parts where common materials have their limits

Those materials with wood/metal/fibre/etc additives require a harder nozzle; but IMO they only have novelty value, and are not needed for functional parts.

I use PLA only for throwaway parts, and I'm still on my first roll that was delivered with the printer. My recommendation: get a roll of PETG, ASA and TPU each, and start testing with your designs.

julian64

14,317 posts

254 months

Friday 31st March 2023
quotequote all
I found PLA only degrades outside in direct sunlight, high heat. Otherwise doesn't seem to degrade at all.

Am still using PLA as a hinge on an ikea seat, parts for the garage, and the whole of my printer, is printed in PLA and they are all over five years old with one of the first BIG BOX printers. No sign of any degradation in any of them.

devnull

3,753 posts

157 months

Friday 31st March 2023
quotequote all
Russ35 said:
Prusa have released their new printer, the Original Prusa Mk4

Assembled - £1,054.80
Kit - £790.80
Upgrades available to make a mk3 into a mk3.5 (£241), mk3.9 (£495) or mk4 (£568)

Bed slinger
32bit board
Appears to be the same frame and size, although one print bed dimension is 10mm larger than the mk3 (250x210x220 v 250x210x210)
New extruder and printhead using planetary gear system, quick change nozzle system.
3.5" colour touch screen
force sensor for bed levelling
Input Shaper and Pressure Advance
Lan connectivity and optional Wi-Fi
Faster, apparently can do a benchy in 20mins (draft mode).


Creality a teasing a new printer (K1 series) due 9th April
tag lines seem to be 'King of speed' and 'AI camera sees all'





Edited by Russ35 on Thursday 30th March 12:49
Proper ladder pricing in effect there. I was going to buy the MK4 upgrade kit when i saw it's not really that much more to get a whole new unit (and other 6 fun hours of building it).

Baldchap

7,634 posts

92 months

Friday 31st March 2023
quotequote all
Bodo said:
As you're capable to design your own geometries, I guess you'll print more functional parts than dust collectors like dragon heads et al

PLA - will degrade quickly, even faster outdoors
PETG - resistant against some solvents; hard to paint, hard to glue, good for eg filler caps
ABS - good to glue with acetone, easy to paint, surface treatment with acetone vapour possible
ASA - same as ABS plus better UV resistance (ie. car parts)
TPU - elastic, many uses, hard to paint and glue
PA, PC-ABS, PP - higher performance, but very expensive. Only use for parts where common materials have their limits

Those materials with wood/metal/fibre/etc additives require a harder nozzle; but IMO they only have novelty value, and are not needed for functional parts.

I use PLA only for throwaway parts, and I'm still on my first roll that was delivered with the printer. My recommendation: get a roll of PETG, ASA and TPU each, and start testing with your designs.
This is really useful for newbies, thank you.

So where would you recommend purchasing non-crap spools of plastic?

Bodo

12,375 posts

266 months

Friday 31st March 2023
quotequote all
Baldchap said:
This is really useful for newbies, thank you.

So where would you recommend purchasing non-crap spools of plastic?
https://devildesign.com/en/oferta/ - for smaller amounts use one of their resellers. Good price/quality ratio with strong pigments.

Wing Commander

2,181 posts

232 months

Friday 31st March 2023
quotequote all
Baldchap said:
Bodo said:
As you're capable to design your own geometries, I guess you'll print more functional parts than dust collectors like dragon heads et al

PLA - will degrade quickly, even faster outdoors
PETG - resistant against some solvents; hard to paint, hard to glue, good for eg filler caps
ABS - good to glue with acetone, easy to paint, surface treatment with acetone vapour possible
ASA - same as ABS plus better UV resistance (ie. car parts)
TPU - elastic, many uses, hard to paint and glue
PA, PC-ABS, PP - higher performance, but very expensive. Only use for parts where common materials have their limits

Those materials with wood/metal/fibre/etc additives require a harder nozzle; but IMO they only have novelty value, and are not needed for functional parts.

I use PLA only for throwaway parts, and I'm still on my first roll that was delivered with the printer. My recommendation: get a roll of PETG, ASA and TPU each, and start testing with your designs.
This is really useful for newbies, thank you.

So where would you recommend purchasing non-crap spools of plastic?
Agreed - this is brilliant and very useful. Thank you!

Yes, the parts we will be printing will be more functional than decorative. Think custom shaped electrical boxes, tool/sensor holders, rapid prototype parts for proof of concept etc.

I will also be "testing" the machine making some things that may or may not be useful for my campervan etc!

Edited by Wing Commander on Friday 31st March 20:13