Is my power supply dead?
Discussion
My PC wouldn't turn on this morning and I have a feeling that it might be the power supply unit.
When I hit the power button, there is an audible click from the power unit, but nothing else. The PC doesn't reach POST, there is no fan noise or anything else. Although, I can see an LED light somewhere on the motherboard.
I have tried a different power cable and plugged the PC directly into the wall but, neither made any difference. I have unplugged everything else but, still no joy.
The current PSU is a Corsair CS650M, a model which I cannot seem to find available for purchase online - if this needs replacing, what would be a viable replacement to do the same job?
Finally, how can I determine if the problem is indeed the power unit before ordering a replacement? I've been reading about a 'paperclip test' - is this a pretty easy thing to do or, would I be better off buying a cheap PSU tester?
Any suggestions gratefully received
When I hit the power button, there is an audible click from the power unit, but nothing else. The PC doesn't reach POST, there is no fan noise or anything else. Although, I can see an LED light somewhere on the motherboard.
I have tried a different power cable and plugged the PC directly into the wall but, neither made any difference. I have unplugged everything else but, still no joy.
The current PSU is a Corsair CS650M, a model which I cannot seem to find available for purchase online - if this needs replacing, what would be a viable replacement to do the same job?
Finally, how can I determine if the problem is indeed the power unit before ordering a replacement? I've been reading about a 'paperclip test' - is this a pretty easy thing to do or, would I be better off buying a cheap PSU tester?
Any suggestions gratefully received
LuS1fer said:
All I can say is that every time my PC has gone wrong, it has been the PSU. Usually blue screen of death or won't switch on.
I think I bought a Corsair CX750 as overkill. Pretty standard fittings.
The CX750 looks to be only a few quid more than the CX650 so, that seems like the sensible option.I think I bought a Corsair CX750 as overkill. Pretty standard fittings.
Is the 'paperclip test' not worth it then? As a general rule, I try to avoid sticking bits of metal into electrical equipment of any kind but, t'internet seems quite keen on the idea!
Hmmm, I'm tempted to just order one and hope for the best!
Okay so, a guy at work has a spare 650W PSU at home which I plan to borrow overnight to see if that fixes the problem.
Unless I get really lucky and he happens to have the exact make & model as mine!, I take it I need to use the cables supplied with the spare PSU rather than the ones still connected to the existing PSU?
Unless I get really lucky and he happens to have the exact make & model as mine!, I take it I need to use the cables supplied with the spare PSU rather than the ones still connected to the existing PSU?
bighop said:
I wouldn't be using your cables with a different PSU. The end which plugs into the motherboard, gfx card etc are standard and the same with all cables. The end that plugs into the actual PSU can vary as it is up to the manufacturer and you could end up frying your components.
This does seem to be the general consensus from what Iv'e been reading. I've ordered another semi modular 650W PSU from the same manufacturer (Corsair) as the 750W would have taken a few days and I'm keen to get this sorted. I had a look at it all last night and, quite frankly, I'm a bit out of my depth with the all the innards.I have therefore employed the services of a mate who has swapped a few PSUs in the past and has agreed to help me out this evening for the princely sum of 'a few beers'
Oh God, I do hope he knows what he is doing
Well, it would seem that the power supply isn't the problem! Swapped it over completely (cables included) and, still nothing. I think the Motherboard is looking like it might be the culprit 
2 more things to try over the weekend. I'll replace the CMOS battery (very, very unlikely I know but, easy to swap so may as well eliminate it). If that doesn't work, I'll see if I can start the motherboard without using the power button - quite easy to do with a screwdriver apparently. I do wish they would include buttons for all these 'jumping' or 'shorting' shenanigans - that would make life much easier for simpletons like me!
Otherwise, a replacement motherboard and a few more beers as payment for my friendly 'tech support' buddy. who has already offered to help swap things over
If that doesn't do it - time to start shopping for a new PC...
2 more things to try over the weekend. I'll replace the CMOS battery (very, very unlikely I know but, easy to swap so may as well eliminate it). If that doesn't work, I'll see if I can start the motherboard without using the power button - quite easy to do with a screwdriver apparently. I do wish they would include buttons for all these 'jumping' or 'shorting' shenanigans - that would make life much easier for simpletons like me!
Otherwise, a replacement motherboard and a few more beers as payment for my friendly 'tech support' buddy. who has already offered to help swap things over
If that doesn't do it - time to start shopping for a new PC...
It's probably either dead motherboard or CPU but unfortunately you will just need to eliminate things one at a time. Try just one stick of RAM if you haven't done that yet (eliminate each stick one at a time) and unplug everything else (no SATA devices, GPU or anything else). Also don't forget the CPU power connector if switching PSU's around. If you have eliminated PSU and RAM then there is nothing else left except motherboard and CPU. If you're replacing both then it doesn't matter, but if just replacing one you'll need another CPU of the same socket that works to find out which component has the issue.
130R said:
It's probably either dead motherboard or CPU but unfortunately you will just need to eliminate things one at a time. Try just one stick of RAM if you haven't done that yet (eliminate each stick one at a time) and unplug everything else (no SATA devices, GPU or anything else). Also don't forget the CPU power connector if switching PSU's around. If you have eliminated PSU and RAM then there is nothing else left except motherboard and CPU. If you're replacing both then it doesn't matter, but if just replacing one you'll need another CPU of the same socket that works to find out which component has the issue.
No, we didn't test the RAM at all. So just to be clear, I need to remove the GPU, disconnect the SATA drives and remove all but 1 stick of RAM? I take it I leave the motherboard and CPU power cables connected for this?Speckle said:
No, we didn't test the RAM at all. So just to be clear, I need to remove the GPU, disconnect the SATA drives and remove all but 1 stick of RAM? I take it I leave the motherboard and CPU power cables connected for this?
Yes. You'll sometimes see this called "breadboarding" as it's usually done outside the case just on a cardboard box. You'll need to check your motherboard manual for which slot you should use for just 1 stick of RAM.Okay, so I feel that I'm making some diagnostic progress now. With no GPU, no SATA devices connected to power and only 1 stick of RAM, the PC boots (yay!) Tried both RAM sticks separately, and it boots in both instances.
Put both RAM sticks back in place and re-installed the GPU.....nothing! So, it is now beginning to look like it might be the GPU itself. Unfortunately, I don't have another machine I can test it in so, I'm at a bit of a loss as to what I should do next. Is it worth sticking the GPU in a different PCI slot?
I've read that resetting the CMOS by removing the battery for 5 mins and thereby resetting to default BIOS settings can solve this problem. But, as with all things in life, it is important to get ask the advice of the PH massive beforehand!
Put both RAM sticks back in place and re-installed the GPU.....nothing! So, it is now beginning to look like it might be the GPU itself. Unfortunately, I don't have another machine I can test it in so, I'm at a bit of a loss as to what I should do next. Is it worth sticking the GPU in a different PCI slot?
I've read that resetting the CMOS by removing the battery for 5 mins and thereby resetting to default BIOS settings can solve this problem. But, as with all things in life, it is important to get ask the advice of the PH massive beforehand!
Speckle said:
Okay, so I feel that I'm making some diagnostic progress now. With no GPU, no SATA devices connected to power and only 1 stick of RAM, the PC boots (yay!) Tried both RAM sticks separately, and it boots in both instances.
Put both RAM sticks back in place and re-installed the GPU.....nothing! So, it is now beginning to look like it might be the GPU itself. Unfortunately, I don't have another machine I can test it in so, I'm at a bit of a loss as to what I should do next. Is it worth sticking the GPU in a different PCI slot?
I've read that resetting the CMOS by removing the battery for 5 mins and thereby resetting to default BIOS settings can solve this problem. But, as with all things in life, it is important to get ask the advice of the PH massive beforehand!
Yes try it in a different slot, it could be a faulty RAM slot as well though still so check it boots with one stick of RAM in each slot individually. It could still be the PSU as the GPU can be a big draw on them, it might not be producing enough power (I had this with a new build a few months ago!)Put both RAM sticks back in place and re-installed the GPU.....nothing! So, it is now beginning to look like it might be the GPU itself. Unfortunately, I don't have another machine I can test it in so, I'm at a bit of a loss as to what I should do next. Is it worth sticking the GPU in a different PCI slot?
I've read that resetting the CMOS by removing the battery for 5 mins and thereby resetting to default BIOS settings can solve this problem. But, as with all things in life, it is important to get ask the advice of the PH massive beforehand!
Fault finding with no spare device can drive you nuts!
2fast748 said:
Yes try it in a different slot, it could be a faulty RAM slot as well though still so check it boots with one stick of RAM in each slot individually. It could still be the PSU as the GPU can be a big draw on them, it might not be producing enough power (I had this with a new build a few months ago!)
Fault finding with no spare device can drive you nuts!
When I originally specced the machine, they said that I didn't need a 650W PSU and that a 550W would be fine so, I think I'm okay on power. Plus, it has been running without issue for 3 years.Fault finding with no spare device can drive you nuts!
More progress. Can boot into windows no problem without GPU installed. Tried GPU in another PCI slot, still wouldn’t boot at all. I borrowed and old PCI graphics card from a guy at work, popped it into PCIe 1 and PC boots fine. I can’t view the output though as it has no HDMI slot (told you it was old!) 
If it matters, the old card doesn’t require additional power from the PSU.
Is it fair to assume then that the GPU is dead or, are there additional tests I should be doing before ordering a new one?
If it matters, the old card doesn’t require additional power from the PSU.
Is it fair to assume then that the GPU is dead or, are there additional tests I should be doing before ordering a new one?
Speckle said:
More progress. Can boot into windows no problem without GPU installed. Tried GPU in another PCI slot, still wouldn’t boot at all. I borrowed and old PCI graphics card from a guy at work, popped it into PCIe 1 and PC boots fine. I can’t view the output though as it has no HDMI slot (told you it was old!)
If it matters, the old card doesn’t require additional power from the PSU.
Is it fair to assume then that the GPU is dead or, are there additional tests I should be doing before ordering a new one?
It sounds pretty conclusive based on the tests you have done. The only other thing I was going to suggest was to check the power cables, but then I saw you said it doesn't require additional power. If you order the new GPU from somewhere reputable (I can recommend overclockers from personal experience) you always have 14 days cancellation period for the new card.If it matters, the old card doesn’t require additional power from the PSU.
Is it fair to assume then that the GPU is dead or, are there additional tests I should be doing before ordering a new one?
Luckily GPU is pretty much the easiest thing to change!
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