Share your HOME WORKING workstation environment - pics
Discussion
HM-2 said:
Thanks! Your garage office is looking great
1) I've been really impressed with the E6. It's very quiet, really well made and sturdy. There's quite a lot of weight on mine, the desktop is about 35kg, my PC another 25, 2 10kg each monitors on a 5kg stand plus another 5 to 10 kg of other stuff. The motors have no issue shifting the weight. There's a small amount if side to side movement if you firmly push the desk but no worse than any other sit/stand I've used.
My only real gripe with it is that some of the instructions, particularly about how to extend the crossbar to accommodate a very large (160cm+) desktop are a bit rubbish.
I prefer a thinner desktop hence going for 27mm. 40 is a bit chunky IMO and significantly heavier, plus it means slightly less space under the desk with the top at a set height. In sitting mode I have the frame at 75cm which gives me loads of room under the desk to move my legs, push my chair arms under etc. I don't think that losing 13mm of this would make a huge difference in my case but it might in someone else's. I also have an under desk drawer which is 70cm (a pretty standard height) which should fit perfectly without hitting the crossbar. With a thicker desktop you might not be able to get standard size drawers under it.
2) I ordered mine unoiled and oiled it myself. The reasoning for this is that if you read the small print they only do two costs of oil so you'd have to do another 1-2 coats anyway, so I thought I might as well save the money and do it all myself as I had Danish oil anyway.
I built the frame then lifted it upside down onto the upturned worktop to mark out the holes with a bradawl and then drilled them with a 4mm bit to about 20mm depth. The kit comes with 12 ST4.2 screws in I think 25mm and there's a rubber washer on each of the screw holes. I was a bit concerned they might be a bit small for such a heavy desktop but no issues so far including lifting it up by the desktop to turn it over. You can see their placement in this picture.
You could use a bigger screw like an ST6.3 bit would probably need to find one under 30mm to avoid the risk of breaking through the tabletop and might have to remove or widen the holes in the rubber washers.
Thanks again for the detailed reply, much appreciated!1) I've been really impressed with the E6. It's very quiet, really well made and sturdy. There's quite a lot of weight on mine, the desktop is about 35kg, my PC another 25, 2 10kg each monitors on a 5kg stand plus another 5 to 10 kg of other stuff. The motors have no issue shifting the weight. There's a small amount if side to side movement if you firmly push the desk but no worse than any other sit/stand I've used.
My only real gripe with it is that some of the instructions, particularly about how to extend the crossbar to accommodate a very large (160cm+) desktop are a bit rubbish.
I prefer a thinner desktop hence going for 27mm. 40 is a bit chunky IMO and significantly heavier, plus it means slightly less space under the desk with the top at a set height. In sitting mode I have the frame at 75cm which gives me loads of room under the desk to move my legs, push my chair arms under etc. I don't think that losing 13mm of this would make a huge difference in my case but it might in someone else's. I also have an under desk drawer which is 70cm (a pretty standard height) which should fit perfectly without hitting the crossbar. With a thicker desktop you might not be able to get standard size drawers under it.
2) I ordered mine unoiled and oiled it myself. The reasoning for this is that if you read the small print they only do two costs of oil so you'd have to do another 1-2 coats anyway, so I thought I might as well save the money and do it all myself as I had Danish oil anyway.
I built the frame then lifted it upside down onto the upturned worktop to mark out the holes with a bradawl and then drilled them with a 4mm bit to about 20mm depth. The kit comes with 12 ST4.2 screws in I think 25mm and there's a rubber washer on each of the screw holes. I was a bit concerned they might be a bit small for such a heavy desktop but no issues so far including lifting it up by the desktop to turn it over. You can see their placement in this picture.
You could use a bigger screw like an ST6.3 bit would probably need to find one under 30mm to avoid the risk of breaking through the tabletop and might have to remove or widen the holes in the rubber washers.
Yep, garage office is coming along. Electrics finished and flooring laid today so getting there, thread has been updated.
Pleased to hear your comments about the desk being stable. I didn't want to break the bank too badly but also didn't want something I'd wish I had spent more. I will take note about the extension as I will need to do the same!
My kitchen worktops are 40mm Oak, so agree 40mm might be overkill. I've been using their worktop configurator on their website which is slightly different to the one on Amazon. Can I ask what size corner rounding you went for? There doesn't seem to be any pictures on their website to show what 10mm vs 80mm rounded corners looks like!
Yep, noticed the oiling small print! Cheeky! Will have a look to get some. Any recommendations? They only offer the standard Oak in the 2000x720x27 worktops so will go for that.
Noted your comments about the screws. I'll use what comes with the Flexispot frame and pre-drill the holes.
Thanks again.
I don't have the customisation details from the initial order (they're not shown on my Amazon for some reason) but 100% sure I had 80mm radiused corners.
I used Liberon Danish oil because that's why my local DIY store had in stock at the time I bought it! I've used the Wickes own brand stuff before too and they're much of a muchness.
I used Liberon Danish oil because that's why my local DIY store had in stock at the time I bought it! I've used the Wickes own brand stuff before too and they're much of a muchness.
Edited by HM-2 on Saturday 13th November 08:49
rxtx said:
Snap with the KEF Q300s although mine are in black. I run them with my trusty old NAD 3020i, an ART MX822 mixer, a BBE 482i and a little REL Quake, with a Clarett 4 Pre USB audio interface.
Amazing, your 3020 is the OG NAD amp!Back in the day I had the C320 Bee then the C325 Bee and I loved the NAD sound, so smooth and warm which suited my then music tastes but even though my taste has evolved to now include acoustic and a lot of string instruments and vocal stuff, the NAD sound is even more impressive than before on the current amp (D 3045). Even buying other amps that had more features etc over the years I always came back to NAD for that one reason, the sound. It's hard to describe and sounds pretentious or something when posted about online but people just need to hear them to understand for sure.
Such a great pairing with these speakers and for me may as well be end game as I've been so impressed with them given they were under £400 brand new. Not a subwofer in sight as simply not needed.
Glad to see someone else with KEF and NAD pairing for sure
robbiekhan said:
Amazing, your 3020 is the OG NAD amp!
Back in the day I had the C320 Bee then the C325 Bee and I loved the NAD sound, so smooth and warm which suited my then music tastes but even though my taste has evolved to now include acoustic and a lot of string instruments and vocal stuff, the NAD sound is even more impressive than before on the current amp (D 3045). Even buying other amps that had more features etc over the years I always came back to NAD for that one reason, the sound. It's hard to describe and sounds pretentious or something when posted about online but people just need to hear them to understand for sure.
Such a great pairing with these speakers and for me may as well be end game as I've been so impressed with them given they were under £400 brand new. Not a subwofer in sight as simply not needed.
Glad to see someone else with KEF and NAD pairing for sure
I'm no audiophile (I use the BBE all the time) but you're right. You're also right about the sub not really being needed with the KEFs, sometimes I have to check the sub's not on! I do tend to power the REL up when listening to some ambient though, I run it in depth mode, or with Run DMC's "Run's House", which has one of the best basslines ever.Back in the day I had the C320 Bee then the C325 Bee and I loved the NAD sound, so smooth and warm which suited my then music tastes but even though my taste has evolved to now include acoustic and a lot of string instruments and vocal stuff, the NAD sound is even more impressive than before on the current amp (D 3045). Even buying other amps that had more features etc over the years I always came back to NAD for that one reason, the sound. It's hard to describe and sounds pretentious or something when posted about online but people just need to hear them to understand for sure.
Such a great pairing with these speakers and for me may as well be end game as I've been so impressed with them given they were under £400 brand new. Not a subwofer in sight as simply not needed.
Glad to see someone else with KEF and NAD pairing for sure
I paid £130 for the 3020i back in 1992 I think it was. Bang for buck or what. It could probably do with a recap though, it does whoomp a bit on startup.
Hah yes I recall running in my C320 so hard at times that the power transformer failed at the brink of under warranty. NAD were more than happy to investigate and I was in regular conversations with one of their engineers as he had it on his bench finding out just how something could happen as it was rare. Back then they were a different company it seems though but such is the way with larger businesses I guess.
Run's House on Spotify seems to be excellent quality, whatever master they used it top notch. Didn't have it in my library so have added it to blast out on a chilled afternoon, cheers for the reminder!
It's a shame I have no analogue audio any more, all solid state else I'd pick up some old skool NADs again. That clang as you power them on then let them reach optimum temp so the sound wasn't cold was a sort of event, too. Do miss that.
Run's House on Spotify seems to be excellent quality, whatever master they used it top notch. Didn't have it in my library so have added it to blast out on a chilled afternoon, cheers for the reminder!
It's a shame I have no analogue audio any more, all solid state else I'd pick up some old skool NADs again. That clang as you power them on then let them reach optimum temp so the sound wasn't cold was a sort of event, too. Do miss that.
HM-2 said:
The kit comes with 12 ST4.2 screws in I think 25mm and there's a rubber washer on each of the screw holes. I was a bit concerned they might be a bit small for such a heavy desktop but no issues so far including lifting it up by the desktop to turn it over. You can see their placement in this picture.
I think static load limit in on each of those screws is around 45kg in timber if properly pilot drilled.HM-2 said:
Thanks! Your garage office is looking great
1) I've been really impressed with the E6. It's very quiet, really well made and sturdy. There's quite a lot of weight on mine, the desktop is about 35kg, my PC another 25, 2 10kg each monitors on a 5kg stand plus another 5 to 10 kg of other stuff. The motors have no issue shifting the weight. There's a small amount if side to side movement if you firmly push the desk but no worse than any other sit/stand I've used.
My only real gripe with it is that some of the instructions, particularly about how to extend the crossbar to accommodate a very large (160cm+) desktop are a bit rubbish.
I prefer a thinner desktop hence going for 27mm. 40 is a bit chunky IMO and significantly heavier, plus it means slightly less space under the desk with the top at a set height. In sitting mode I have the frame at 75cm which gives me loads of room under the desk to move my legs, push my chair arms under etc. I don't think that losing 13mm of this would make a huge difference in my case but it might in someone else's. I also have an under desk drawer which is 70cm (a pretty standard height) which should fit perfectly without hitting the crossbar. With a thicker desktop you might not be able to get standard size drawers under it.
2) I ordered mine unoiled and oiled it myself. The reasoning for this is that if you read the small print they only do two costs of oil so you'd have to do another 1-2 coats anyway, so I thought I might as well save the money and do it all myself as I had Danish oil anyway.
I built the frame then lifted it upside down onto the upturned worktop to mark out the holes with a bradawl and then drilled them with a 4mm bit to about 20mm depth. The kit comes with 12 ST4.2 screws in I think 25mm and there's a rubber washer on each of the screw holes. I was a bit concerned they might be a bit small for such a heavy desktop but no issues so far including lifting it up by the desktop to turn it over. You can see their placement in this picture.
You could use a bigger screw like an ST6.3 bit would probably need to find one under 30mm to avoid the risk of breaking through the tabletop and might have to remove or widen the holes in the rubber washers.
Hi,1) I've been really impressed with the E6. It's very quiet, really well made and sturdy. There's quite a lot of weight on mine, the desktop is about 35kg, my PC another 25, 2 10kg each monitors on a 5kg stand plus another 5 to 10 kg of other stuff. The motors have no issue shifting the weight. There's a small amount if side to side movement if you firmly push the desk but no worse than any other sit/stand I've used.
My only real gripe with it is that some of the instructions, particularly about how to extend the crossbar to accommodate a very large (160cm+) desktop are a bit rubbish.
I prefer a thinner desktop hence going for 27mm. 40 is a bit chunky IMO and significantly heavier, plus it means slightly less space under the desk with the top at a set height. In sitting mode I have the frame at 75cm which gives me loads of room under the desk to move my legs, push my chair arms under etc. I don't think that losing 13mm of this would make a huge difference in my case but it might in someone else's. I also have an under desk drawer which is 70cm (a pretty standard height) which should fit perfectly without hitting the crossbar. With a thicker desktop you might not be able to get standard size drawers under it.
2) I ordered mine unoiled and oiled it myself. The reasoning for this is that if you read the small print they only do two costs of oil so you'd have to do another 1-2 coats anyway, so I thought I might as well save the money and do it all myself as I had Danish oil anyway.
I built the frame then lifted it upside down onto the upturned worktop to mark out the holes with a bradawl and then drilled them with a 4mm bit to about 20mm depth. The kit comes with 12 ST4.2 screws in I think 25mm and there's a rubber washer on each of the screw holes. I was a bit concerned they might be a bit small for such a heavy desktop but no issues so far including lifting it up by the desktop to turn it over. You can see their placement in this picture.
You could use a bigger screw like an ST6.3 bit would probably need to find one under 30mm to avoid the risk of breaking through the tabletop and might have to remove or widen the holes in the rubber washers.
How are you getting on in your new office? I'm nearly finished on my garage office and I'm in the process of oiling my Oak worktop. I went for Osmo Top oil as that's what the supplier recommend and I didn't have any other. It's got a 6-8 hour drying time so it's painfully slow to do when it needs 3x coats on both sides and edges! I'm essentially able to do 1 coat on one side in the morning, then another on the other side in the evening.
My Flexiform E6 frame has arrived, so as im waiting for the oil to dry I opened the box and had a look at the instructions. It's not all laid out in front of me but I see what you mean about them not being very clear about extending it! Any tips on how to interpret that part a bit better?!
PageyUK said:
Hi,
How are you getting on in your new office?
Great, thanks- not a huge amount has changed since the previous pictures. I've cleared my sawhorse out of here which I was using as a place to store bits, assembled and added an IKEA Alex under desk drawer with a couple of risers on it so the desk sits on top of it when lowered to its minimum height. Also, mood lighting. How are you getting on in your new office?
I've also got two Kallax shelving units but am having a bit of re-jigg to move my kegerator and a few other bits so outside of the actual desk area it's a bit of a mess at the moment.
PageyUK said:
I'm nearly finished on my garage office and I'm in the process of oiling my Oak worktop. I went for Osmo Top oil as that's what the supplier recommend and I didn't have any other. It's got a 6-8 hour drying time so it's painfully slow to do when it needs 3x coats on both sides and edges! I'm essentially able to do 1 coat on one side in the morning, then another on the other side in the evening.
I've not used the Osmo Top Oil before but interested to see what the finish is like. In hindsight, I reckon I could have done another coat of Danish oil on my desk for the optimum satin finish but has worn well so far with no water staining or marking so it's clearly good enough.PageyUK said:
My Flexiform E6 frame has arrived, so as im waiting for the oil to dry I opened the box and had a look at the instructions. It's not all laid out in front of me but I see what you mean about them not being very clear about extending it! Any tips on how to interpret that part a bit better?!
So I found it was a bit of trial and error to get the extendible middle bar pieces properly aligned. I actually ended up taking them out on one side completely and moving the separated leg around to figure out how long they needed to be. In the end the total width I went with was about 180cm so I have a roughly 10cm lip either end, but I felt like I was getting mighty close to the edges of the crossbar going any further than that and was concerned it wouldn't grip properly and might slip out. HM-2 said:
So I found it was a bit of trial and error to get the extendible middle bar pieces properly aligned. I actually ended up taking them out on one side completely and moving the separated leg around to figure out how long they needed to be. In the end the total width I went with was about 180cm so I have a roughly 10cm lip either end, but I felt like I was getting mighty close to the edges of the crossbar going any further than that and was concerned it wouldn't grip properly and might slip out.
Evening HM-2, do you reckon you could put a 200cm long worktop on that?Also how deep is your desk? I have a 200cm worktop as my desk at the minute and I'm looking at mounting it and having it as a stand up desk.
dsgrnmcm said:
Evening HM-2, do you reckon you could put a 200cm long worktop on that?
Also how deep is your desk? I have a 200cm worktop as my desk at the minute and I'm looking at mounting it and having it as a stand up desk.
I did put a 200cm worktop on it- the frame is extended to about 180cm with a 10cm overhang either side with a worktop that size. You might be able to go 10cm bigger but I think 2M is the realistic limit of the frame. Also how deep is your desk? I have a 200cm worktop as my desk at the minute and I'm looking at mounting it and having it as a stand up desk.
The worktop in my pictures is 200*72*2.7cm.
HM-2 said:
So I found it was a bit of trial and error to get the extendible middle bar pieces properly aligned. I actually ended up taking them out on one side completely and moving the separated leg around to figure out how long they needed to be. In the end the total width I went with was about 180cm so I have a roughly 10cm lip either end, but I felt like I was getting mighty close to the edges of the crossbar going any further than that and was concerned it wouldn't grip properly and might slip out.
Hi HM-2, It's a bit delayed but I thought I'd post back to show you how the Oak looked after oiling, fitting, etc. During the Oiling process:
Here is a picture just after I'd finished oiling/assembling the desk which was actually pretty straight forward in the end.
Another after the initial setup under the down lights:
And how it is now after a few weeks of use:
Thanks for all the tips/advice, they helped me with my decisions a lot and its turned out really well. How are you getting on in your garden cabin/office now? Any new additions? I've progressed with my garage office and am now using it but with still a few more bits to do ( more info here if interested https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...)
Edited by PageyUK on Saturday 1st January 19:05
PageyUK said:
It's a bit delayed but I thought I'd post back to show you how the Oak looked after oiling, fitting, etc.
Thanks for your kind words, glad I could be of help. That's looking really great. I like your fancy monitor arms, in hindsight I cheaped out a little. My Invision ones are perfectly sturdy, but the swankier brushed aluminium style would definitely have looked better.Mine is looking much the same. I've rejigged the location of my kegerator so it's less visible in Teams chats , put up a shelf for glasses by it, replaced my corded mouse with a wireless one, added a bracket for my Teams headset, and finally put up the artwork I had in the old office (mostly limited run gig/band screenprints). I've got an IKEA Kallax unit that I need to get a second countertop ordered for that I'll share once it's done, but other than rebuilding my PC (which I'll start tomorrow) the office space is pretty much done now.
HM-2 said:
Thanks for your kind words, glad I could be of help. That's looking really great. I like your fancy monitor arms, in hindsight I cheaped out a little. My Invision ones are perfectly sturdy, but the swankier brushed aluminium style would definitely have looked better.
Mine is looking much the same. I've rejigged the location of my kegerator so it's less visible in Teams chats , put up a shelf for glasses by it, replaced my corded mouse with a wireless one, added a bracket for my Teams headset, and finally put up the artwork I had in the old office (mostly limited run gig/band screenprints). I've got an IKEA Kallax unit that I need to get a second countertop ordered for that I'll share once it's done, but other than rebuilding my PC (which I'll start tomorrow) the office space is pretty much done now.
That's looking really good.Mine is looking much the same. I've rejigged the location of my kegerator so it's less visible in Teams chats , put up a shelf for glasses by it, replaced my corded mouse with a wireless one, added a bracket for my Teams headset, and finally put up the artwork I had in the old office (mostly limited run gig/band screenprints). I've got an IKEA Kallax unit that I need to get a second countertop ordered for that I'll share once it's done, but other than rebuilding my PC (which I'll start tomorrow) the office space is pretty much done now.
I've taken inspiration from this thread and have ordered a stand up desk and just waiting for the work top (Beech as my office is quite dark) to arrive and a second screen.
Can I ask what you used for cable management under the desk?
dsgrnmcm said:
Can I ask what you used for cable management under the desk?
About two dozen 3M backed cable clips from Amazon, plus loads of cable ties. On my last desk I used a cable tray too but didn't bother this time. -Edit
Forgot to add- also a big roll of 3M VHB tape which I've stick things like my extension leads, laptop dock and KVM to the underside of the desk with.
Edited by HM-2 on Sunday 2nd January 22:18
dsgrnmcm said:
That's looking really good.
I've taken inspiration from this thread and have ordered a stand up desk and just waiting for the work top (Beech as my office is quite dark) to arrive and a second screen.
Can I ask what you used for cable management under the desk?
My cable management isn't finished yet, but it is something I am very particular about. I've taken inspiration from this thread and have ordered a stand up desk and just waiting for the work top (Beech as my office is quite dark) to arrive and a second screen.
Can I ask what you used for cable management under the desk?
I used sticky backed velcro for my 8 gang sockets, then various 3M sticky backed cable clips. If interested I can probably find a link to the ones I've used. Cable ties were also used.
HM-2 said:
Thanks for your kind words, glad I could be of help. That's looking really great. I like your fancy monitor arms, in hindsight I cheaped out a little. My Invision ones are perfectly sturdy, but the swankier brushed aluminium style would definitely have looked better.
Mine is looking much the same. I've rejigged the location of my kegerator so it's less visible in Teams chats , put up a shelf for glasses by it, replaced my corded mouse with a wireless one, added a bracket for my Teams headset, and finally put up the artwork I had in the old office (mostly limited run gig/band screenprints). I've got an IKEA Kallax unit that I need to get a second countertop ordered for that I'll share once it's done, but other than rebuilding my PC (which I'll start tomorrow) the office space is pretty much done now.
The Monitor arms are some I had in work that were broken, so I took them home and repaired them. They are fairly old but are Humanscale and do the job well. Would prefer one arm for all of the screens, but it's functional for now. I can't seem to find many triple monitor arms that are of good quality and have some cable management built in. I am tempted to try an ultrawide monitor instead. Mine is looking much the same. I've rejigged the location of my kegerator so it's less visible in Teams chats , put up a shelf for glasses by it, replaced my corded mouse with a wireless one, added a bracket for my Teams headset, and finally put up the artwork I had in the old office (mostly limited run gig/band screenprints). I've got an IKEA Kallax unit that I need to get a second countertop ordered for that I'll share once it's done, but other than rebuilding my PC (which I'll start tomorrow) the office space is pretty much done now.
Yep, I need to personalise my room a bit more as it is very bare. Some shelf's for my geeky stuff and some pictures are on the agenda.
Yours looks really good. You must be pleased you did it.
PageyUK said:
dsgrnmcm said:
That's looking really good.
I've taken inspiration from this thread and have ordered a stand up desk and just waiting for the work top (Beech as my office is quite dark) to arrive and a second screen.
Can I ask what you used for cable management under the desk?
My cable management isn't finished yet, but it is something I am very particular about. I've taken inspiration from this thread and have ordered a stand up desk and just waiting for the work top (Beech as my office is quite dark) to arrive and a second screen.
Can I ask what you used for cable management under the desk?
I used sticky backed velcro for my 8 gang sockets, then various 3M sticky backed cable clips. If interested I can probably find a link to the ones I've used. Cable ties were also used.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/LINDY-Plug-Splitter-Lead-...
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