Another Body off BUT!
Discussion
OK guys,
I've stripped the car down ready for the big lift. Exhaust off, petrol tank out, all body bolts out, wiring removed and hand brake cable off. Engine bay wiring and pipework undone and labeled.
My questions are.....
1 what size tubing for out riggers?
2 what sise tube to slide inside out rigger tubes?
3 what size tube for seat belt mounts on out rigger side?
4 what thickness plate for corners of out riggers? (triangular bits)
5 Any recommended hot zink coaters and powder coaters around Manchester?
There has been some quality rebuilds on here the last few months so I've learnt alot and looking
forward to the job.
Any info gratefully received.
Plenty of chassis porn to follow I'm sure.
Paul.
I've stripped the car down ready for the big lift. Exhaust off, petrol tank out, all body bolts out, wiring removed and hand brake cable off. Engine bay wiring and pipework undone and labeled.
My questions are.....
1 what size tubing for out riggers?
2 what sise tube to slide inside out rigger tubes?
3 what size tube for seat belt mounts on out rigger side?
4 what thickness plate for corners of out riggers? (triangular bits)
5 Any recommended hot zink coaters and powder coaters around Manchester?
There has been some quality rebuilds on here the last few months so I've learnt alot and looking
forward to the job.
Any info gratefully received.
Plenty of chassis porn to follow I'm sure.
Paul.
No prob Paul, I'd forgotten about the corner plate so I'll get that tomorrow.
When I said the inside tube was very very tight I meant with the existing chassis tube.
FYI, a couple of tips.
I didn't cut the diagonal in the rear wheel arch. By grinding at the weld with the horizontal tube underneath it I could make it fit onto the new horizontal tube nicely.
When I cut the horizontal tubes I threw loads of kurust into the bits left. Left it to dry then hammered the new tube into place.
When I said the inside tube was very very tight I meant with the existing chassis tube.
FYI, a couple of tips.
I didn't cut the diagonal in the rear wheel arch. By grinding at the weld with the horizontal tube underneath it I could make it fit onto the new horizontal tube nicely.
When I cut the horizontal tubes I threw loads of kurust into the bits left. Left it to dry then hammered the new tube into place.
I have a mate who is a welder at a local steel company. He got all the steel for me and did the welding 
The steel I used for corner plates is 3mm thick and 95mm wide.
There are actually 2 different widths of corner plates if you look under the car.
60mm for the two plates which come off the square centre chassis to the front / back horizontals in the wheel arches (these are factory as I cut the horizontals in the wheel arches about half way between the square chassis and where the diagonal down tube meets it)
I created/opened up the holes on the 95mm corner plates so there is a hole in each inside corner big enough for me to stick my little finger through
I did this as the main problem seems to have been where crud has got over the corner plates and sat in the crevices.
Now I can poke my finger in and clean them out.
I used tipex to write the location on each corner plate then photographed it before cutting it.
I also measured everything very carefully using the square centre chassis as a point of reference.
When cutting, I used a 1mm cutting blade in the grinder and kept everything I took off so I could piece it together off the car in case I needed measurements.
Offcuts from the new plates were kept and used inside the car under the bolts as strengtheners as only farty little washers were used by the factory.
There is an awkward corner plate to the centre tube.
Its awkward because the car floor has a recess to fit over it. So measure this one carefully. You're see which one I mean because its a strange shape too.
Hope that helps.
IanB
The steel I used for corner plates is 3mm thick and 95mm wide.
There are actually 2 different widths of corner plates if you look under the car.
60mm for the two plates which come off the square centre chassis to the front / back horizontals in the wheel arches (these are factory as I cut the horizontals in the wheel arches about half way between the square chassis and where the diagonal down tube meets it)
I created/opened up the holes on the 95mm corner plates so there is a hole in each inside corner big enough for me to stick my little finger through
I did this as the main problem seems to have been where crud has got over the corner plates and sat in the crevices.
Now I can poke my finger in and clean them out.
I used tipex to write the location on each corner plate then photographed it before cutting it.
I also measured everything very carefully using the square centre chassis as a point of reference.
When cutting, I used a 1mm cutting blade in the grinder and kept everything I took off so I could piece it together off the car in case I needed measurements.
Offcuts from the new plates were kept and used inside the car under the bolts as strengtheners as only farty little washers were used by the factory.
There is an awkward corner plate to the centre tube.
Its awkward because the car floor has a recess to fit over it. So measure this one carefully. You're see which one I mean because its a strange shape too.
Hope that helps.
IanB
Twistygit said:
just out of curiosity how much roughly was the steel to do the outriggers?
thanks
Did my outriggers on cerb a couple of weeks ago.Same size tubes as Barreti,£16 for 6m of outside tube about the same for the sleave.They only did the plate 4ft by 8ft for £50.So went to scrap yard,they had loads of off cuts,so the plate cost £1.Got the tube from FWB dont know if they are nation wide.thanks
Mart
paulathome said:
OK guys,
I've stripped the car down ready for the big lift. Exhaust off, petrol tank out, all body bolts out, wiring removed and hand brake cable off. Engine bay wiring and pipework undone and labeled.
My questions are.....
1 what size tubing for out riggers?
2 what sise tube to slide inside out rigger tubes?
3 what size tube for seat belt mounts on out rigger side?
4 what thickness plate for corners of out riggers? (triangular bits)
5 Any recommended hot zink coaters and powder coaters around Manchester?
There has been some quality rebuilds on here the last few months so I've learnt alot and looking
forward to the job.
Any info gratefully received.
Plenty of chassis porn to follow I'm sure.
Paul.
Had a qoute the other week for a beadblast,zinc primer and powdercoat at £150+vat for the cerb chassis.I've stripped the car down ready for the big lift. Exhaust off, petrol tank out, all body bolts out, wiring removed and hand brake cable off. Engine bay wiring and pipework undone and labeled.
My questions are.....
1 what size tubing for out riggers?
2 what sise tube to slide inside out rigger tubes?
3 what size tube for seat belt mounts on out rigger side?
4 what thickness plate for corners of out riggers? (triangular bits)
5 Any recommended hot zink coaters and powder coaters around Manchester?
There has been some quality rebuilds on here the last few months so I've learnt alot and looking
forward to the job.
Any info gratefully received.
Plenty of chassis porn to follow I'm sure.
Paul.
Dont know how to do a link but its wrexhammetalfinishing
If the body is completely off then why bother with cutting and sleeving, why not take the outriggers off at the main chassis spine and weld in whole new ones from there? It's only going to be a few extra ft of tube. 
. You can buy full outriggers for diy fitment too rather than make them up from tube and plate.
. You can buy full outriggers for diy fitment too rather than make them up from tube and plate.Thanks guys for all the info. The company in Wrexham looks good, will ring in the next week or two.
I'm thinking of hot zink coating then powder coating so the company in wrexham looks the best I've seen
so far unless someone know better.
The ready made out riggers are a silly price for a few feet of tube welded together. I have access to a MIG welder and can weld so it's a no brainer for me to make my own.
Hopefully if the weather is good in the next week the body should be off to see the state of play, although the drivers side front out rigger has been tested with a screw driver and hammer and it's not good news as it went staight through the corner welds.
Paul.
I'm thinking of hot zink coating then powder coating so the company in wrexham looks the best I've seen
so far unless someone know better.
The ready made out riggers are a silly price for a few feet of tube welded together. I have access to a MIG welder and can weld so it's a no brainer for me to make my own.
Hopefully if the weather is good in the next week the body should be off to see the state of play, although the drivers side front out rigger has been tested with a screw driver and hammer and it's not good news as it went staight through the corner welds.
Paul.
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