Is this a silly idea?
Discussion
I was at a car show today and ended up parked next to a car that was almost identical to mine. Except his was very shiny and mine has swirls, so we got talking about polishing, clay bars etc.
Proper car polishers have a random orbital motion, but I have several Bosch 18V tools and the range has a random orbital sander: https://www.mytoolshed.co.uk/bosch-easyorbit-18v-1...
Obviously I'm not going to use sandpaper, but I see there are 125mm polishing pads available with hook/loop fixing.
Would that work or is there some glaring problem I haven't spotted?
Proper car polishers have a random orbital motion, but I have several Bosch 18V tools and the range has a random orbital sander: https://www.mytoolshed.co.uk/bosch-easyorbit-18v-1...
Obviously I'm not going to use sandpaper, but I see there are 125mm polishing pads available with hook/loop fixing.
Would that work or is there some glaring problem I haven't spotted?
Bluevanman said:
As a guide,polishing is done under 2000rpm,well under in some cases,sanding is done around the 10,000rpm mark .
Do not use a sander for polishing
Perfect answer, thanks Do not use a sander for polishing
anyoldcardave said:
Here is some expert advice, get an expert to do the job.
You're right of course, but I'd like to try to save £600 if I can. I'm happy to have a go by hand, but not sure what's the best stuff to use. I'm of the T-Cut era but understand there may be better alternatives now. 
Belle427 said:
I would probably take a punt on one of the cheap da polishers on amazon.
The das6 which is a popular quality model isn't that expensive though.
Thanks for the advice - £99 at Halfords I see. Spec says:The das6 which is a popular quality model isn't that expensive though.
Orbit Size: 9mm
Powerful 650w Motor
Backing Plate Thread Size: 5/16" (same as Porter Cable, G220 and UDM's)
Variable 6 Speed Dial: 2,000 to 6,500rpm
Weight - 1.75 kg (approx)
Fits 5", 6" and 6.5" polishing pads
DaveF-SkinnysAutos said:
So, firstly, there are rotary polishers and DA polishers. Rotary are very aggressive, but cut through scratches etc much quicker than DA polishers, Please don't use any kind of rotary attachment on you car unless you really know what you are doing as you can burn through your lacquer so easily!!!!
Moving onto DA or orbital as per the question, a DA polisher is a lot more forgiving, there are a couple of factors, its the 'throw' of the DA and also the torque at the low end that's important, so you can get DA polishers that have an orbit of 5mm up to 22mm sort of range, I think your sander in the link only has a throw of 2mm, so isn't really moving much and its this that helps you with the swirls you are talking about. The second point is the speed, absolutely it needs to have a slow speed on the heavier compounds as this prevents heat build up which is the enemy. Once you get onto the finer final polishing you want a faster speed, but you're using a finer compound and pad at this point, so less likely to cause damage to your paintwork.
The torque and ability to control it at those low speeds is what a dedicated polisher does, the shape of the polisher with the longer handle means you can control the machine and it doesn't control you, the example you link to is basically going around really quickly but it isn't creating any kind of orbit with only a 2mm throw, and its not got the speed control, and you cant move and control it across the panel with the stumpy design of it.
Why do you want it to be cordless? I do this for a living and proper polishers have cables that are at least 10m long, a battery one just won't have the grunt to provide the torque you need without whizzing though batteries, polishers are all heavy duty 900w plus motors, you just can't run a decent polisher on batteries for more than 5 minutes on average, battery powered ones are ok for a 75mm pad and polishing some of the smaller areas at a push. Just get a decent DIY wired DA polisher and an extension lead, they are a couple of hundred quid max for a DIY one usually with a full kit of pads. They are all over the internet and will be a decent job for you to learn with. The £600 ones are aimed at those of us that use them every day and need the reliability rather than any magic powers they provide.
That's a great reply, just what I was looking for Moving onto DA or orbital as per the question, a DA polisher is a lot more forgiving, there are a couple of factors, its the 'throw' of the DA and also the torque at the low end that's important, so you can get DA polishers that have an orbit of 5mm up to 22mm sort of range, I think your sander in the link only has a throw of 2mm, so isn't really moving much and its this that helps you with the swirls you are talking about. The second point is the speed, absolutely it needs to have a slow speed on the heavier compounds as this prevents heat build up which is the enemy. Once you get onto the finer final polishing you want a faster speed, but you're using a finer compound and pad at this point, so less likely to cause damage to your paintwork.
The torque and ability to control it at those low speeds is what a dedicated polisher does, the shape of the polisher with the longer handle means you can control the machine and it doesn't control you, the example you link to is basically going around really quickly but it isn't creating any kind of orbit with only a 2mm throw, and its not got the speed control, and you cant move and control it across the panel with the stumpy design of it.
Why do you want it to be cordless? I do this for a living and proper polishers have cables that are at least 10m long, a battery one just won't have the grunt to provide the torque you need without whizzing though batteries, polishers are all heavy duty 900w plus motors, you just can't run a decent polisher on batteries for more than 5 minutes on average, battery powered ones are ok for a 75mm pad and polishing some of the smaller areas at a push. Just get a decent DIY wired DA polisher and an extension lead, they are a couple of hundred quid max for a DIY one usually with a full kit of pads. They are all over the internet and will be a decent job for you to learn with. The £600 ones are aimed at those of us that use them every day and need the reliability rather than any magic powers they provide.
There's no need for cordless, it was just that most I saw were cordless and as I have the Bosch 18V range it seemed sensible to go that way. However it now seems a bad idea so I'll bin that.
I have to decide whether it's worth buying a DA polisher + all the bits for a one-off job, or do it by hand the old way. £99 isn't much but it's not going to get used much as I don't see this as a regular way to make the car shiny!
Is 2,000rpm slow enough?
Thanks Dave. I've decided to get the DAS 6 DA as recommended, and will also get a clay bar, but am floundering a bit on the pads and polishes to go with it. Is it a different pad for every polish and how many different pads/polishes do I need to get from swirl marks to shiny?
ETA - having researched clay bars, that's a minefield too!
ETA - having researched clay bars, that's a minefield too!
Edited by Simpo Two on Saturday 6th September 16:16
Thanks folks - sorry for the late reply but quite a lot to unpack there!
I've read a few reviews and decided to go for this rather than an traditional clay bar https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00K4UVUEG?th=1 It seems about as good, much easier/faster to use and I've heard of G3 so it's probably safe to use!
I think I have a decent grasp of the principles and the technique will follow, the only thing missing is the pads and pastes/polishes to use.
When I was making this chap... https://projectx067.co.uk/new_page_15.htm - feel free to browse the website - I achieved the final finish with multiple layers of aerosol gloss, then sanded with various grades of wet/dry down to 3,000 and then polished with headlight restoration polish. The result, which actually surprised me, is a lovely a 'scale gloss'. That was all done by hand. But obviously the car (DB9) will be a different animal and the lacquer (starting position) will be harder and thinner. Messing it up and having to respray is not an option!
Getting my head round the pads and polishes, we have coarse and fine pads, and coarse and fine pastes (and perhaps points in-between). Do we always use a coarse pad with a coarse paste, and vice versa or are there stages where you mix them up?
I've read a few reviews and decided to go for this rather than an traditional clay bar https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00K4UVUEG?th=1 It seems about as good, much easier/faster to use and I've heard of G3 so it's probably safe to use!
DaveF-SkinnysAutos said:
I think my biggest bit of advice is try not to get lost in the world of detailing
Absolutely, I have no desire to be a car detailer, just to make the thing shiny I think I have a decent grasp of the principles and the technique will follow, the only thing missing is the pads and pastes/polishes to use.
When I was making this chap... https://projectx067.co.uk/new_page_15.htm - feel free to browse the website - I achieved the final finish with multiple layers of aerosol gloss, then sanded with various grades of wet/dry down to 3,000 and then polished with headlight restoration polish. The result, which actually surprised me, is a lovely a 'scale gloss'. That was all done by hand. But obviously the car (DB9) will be a different animal and the lacquer (starting position) will be harder and thinner. Messing it up and having to respray is not an option!
DaveF-SkinnysAutos said:
The whole purpose of what you're trying to achieve is to get that clear coat as flat as possible to reflect the most light. It sounds like your issue is paint swirls which is usually very fine scratches which have been rubbed in when washing the car, so you need a compound coarse enough to remove those marks, but at the same time, you only want to use the lightest compound you need, as every time you machine polish you are removing a bit more of that paint lacquer that I've spent hours painting! That is where the experience comes in. If you've got really deep scratches even a coarse compound won't remove them and you would have to carefully sand them with 2000 grit sandpaper, but if they are very shallow scratches a medium compound will remove them leaving you a lot more clear coat thickness for next time.
Does that make sense?
Perfectly Does that make sense?
DaveF-SkinnysAutos said:
So, if I was you I would buy a coarse cutting compound and a fine 'polish'. I would get a coarse hard pad and a soft pad. Use the coarse cutting compound and the hard pad, put a couple of pea sized drops on the pad, hold the pad on the car (Otherwise it spins off everywhere!) and go up and down and side to side on a square patch about 18"-24". Use a slow speed on the DA polisher and apply a bit of pressure, move slowly, but not so slow that the panel is getting hot. Wipe it off with a soft clean microfibre cloth and see if the scratches/swirls have gone? At this point the paint will be dull, all you're looking at is have the fine swirl scratches gone? If they haven't do it again, if they are still there after using coarse compound and a hard pad then it probably needs sanding and that's for the professional.
If the swirls have gone, you are then using the fine polish and the soft pad to remove the marks left by the coarse stage, use the same couple of pea sized drops, ramp the DA speed up and don't apply as much pressure and let the fine paste remove the marks from the last stage, after this you should wipe it off and have a nice shiny smooth surface.
I'm a bit concerned about using anything coarse. The car is 18 years old, has no doubt been machine polished before and so I have to assume the lacquer is thin. I'd be happier starting with a finer compound first and seeing if it works.If the swirls have gone, you are then using the fine polish and the soft pad to remove the marks left by the coarse stage, use the same couple of pea sized drops, ramp the DA speed up and don't apply as much pressure and let the fine paste remove the marks from the last stage, after this you should wipe it off and have a nice shiny smooth surface.
Getting my head round the pads and polishes, we have coarse and fine pads, and coarse and fine pastes (and perhaps points in-between). Do we always use a coarse pad with a coarse paste, and vice versa or are there stages where you mix them up?
DaveF-SkinnysAutos said:
That's the process. As for products, basically they are same, just pick one you like the look of at a price that suits you, there is not enough difference to lose sleep over. Personally I use Menzerna, but only because they suit how I work, for other people they might moan they are too thick or too thin etc, all they do is create a thin paste which sands lightly, its not rocket science. The harder foam pads mean you can get it to rub harder, the softer pads allow for the polish to shine. Wash them in soapy water after and accept that they wear out after a couple of uses much like your washing up sponges do. Don't buy big bottles of compounds, you are only using a small amount a couple of times a year, and if you don't like that product, next time you can try a different one.
Well I searched 'Menzerna' on Amazon and of course there are a million products all saying they're fab and I have no idea which ones I need... if you could kindly select a paste and a polish - and a coarse and soft pad - I will blindly follow your lead and start scrubbing Update - I just got the basic DAS6 with both pads, case etc for £100: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257099348933
So I just need - I think - paste for the coarse pad and polish for the fine pad - and the task can begin! Links welcome please.
So I just need - I think - paste for the coarse pad and polish for the fine pad - and the task can begin! Links welcome please.
Belle427 said:
I would try this but take the length 0f durability of the protection with a pinch of salt.
https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/zvizzer-one-polish-...
This is a great product too.
https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/scholl-s20-black-1-...
Thanks Belle. If I read it right, both of those products will get me all the way from starting point (ie after claying) to the final finish, is that so? In that case £15.95 for one bottle of fix-all hooch (Scholl - S20 Black 1-Step Compound) is a good deal.https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/zvizzer-one-polish-...
This is a great product too.
https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/scholl-s20-black-1-...
DaveF-SkinnysAutos said:
Sorry, your link to your project wouldn t open on my computer? Claiming it wasn t a secure site etc.
It's fine, I just haven't paid a company extra money for a certificate of whatever it certifies. Try again DaveF-SkinnysAutos said:
Can you mix pads? - Yes of course, it s just that a soft pad isn t going to grind that compound as much, I think the better way to think about it is to increase/decrease pressure on the polisher (You are never putting a lot of pressure on you are generally allowing the machine to do the work), rather than worry about using different pads too much, the main difference with makes of pads is quality, the cheaper ones just don t seem to last as long before deteriorating, I use Rupes pads, they are at the expensive end but I use them daily and are cost effective for me. Wool pads are the most coarse, then hard, medium, soft, ultra soft, but as before, they are trying to sell you stuff you don t need, its just a piece of foam, go for a hard and a soft. You ve got a couple with the set you ve brought anyway haven t you?
That's right. Probably not the best in the world, but I don't plan to do this more than I have to...! DaveF-SkinnysAutos said:
I appreciate your concerns that you don t know how many times its been machine polished before and that s a whole different conversation, I use a paint gauge but your getting into the world of professionalism now. Sanding cars daily, I d have to be holding at least a 600 grit sandpaper on a DA sander for a while to rub through even thin lacquer so you will have plenty of clear coat to play with (Hopefully!), the place you can really easily go wrong is any kind of edge, so keep well away, if your worried mask off the edges so you can t catch them, you will burn through on panels that aren t flat if your not concentrating, but on the big panels even a coarse compound is less than 3000 grit sandpaper. But catch a door handle etc and it will go through.
I'll take it very carefully. I plan to try the boot first as that's probably the cheapest panel to respray if it goes horribly wrong...DaveF-SkinnysAutos said:
Compounds/Polishes - I ve stressed before, they are basically all the same ingredients, but I use 250ml bottles of Menzerna, they are a nice small size, I m not recommending as everyone has there own opinions and experiences, but I m saying in my own custom paint workshop I use Menzerna 1000 Heavy cut, Menzerna 2500 Medium cut (I don t use this very often), Menzerna 3800 Super finish plus and Menzerna Cut Force pro.
Would you say that the Scholl product above is a good idiot-proof choice? It's not expensive; perhaps I'll try that first and see, then if it's not man enough I can try the Menzerna 2500.The only thing I've used before is T-Cut, which seems to do both jobs as well - whereabouts is that on the scale of grit? That would help me get things in a line.
Edited by Simpo Two on Friday 24th October 15:01
Thanks Dave, we're about there
As the marks to get out are relatively minor I think a one-step product is a good answer for the novice.
Menzerna Cut Force Pro is on Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/menzerna-Polishing-Compou... described as 'Premium Polish with Heavy Cut and high gloss finish'.
I see they also do a 'One-Step Polish 3in1' https://www.amazon.co.uk/menzerna-Polishing-Mainte... described as 'Medium Cut Polish with High Gloss Finish & Seal in One'.
Given this is 18 year old paint with only swirl marks but the lacquer might be a bit thin, I'm pondering heavy or medium cut. But 'heavy' can't be that heavy if it can go all the way to a gloss finish. And as you say I can vary the pressure. But the medium product has a 'seal' as well... is that better than a high gloss? You see the problem we amateurs face!
NB: Once I've got it up to 'high gloss' is there anything I can use to make the shine deeper/thicker/more durable? I have some G3 Pro 7193 Rapid Detailer spray https://www.amazon.co.uk/G3-Pro-Rapid-Detailer-500... but not sure if that's the right thing to use after all the rest.
As the marks to get out are relatively minor I think a one-step product is a good answer for the novice.
Menzerna Cut Force Pro is on Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/menzerna-Polishing-Compou... described as 'Premium Polish with Heavy Cut and high gloss finish'.
I see they also do a 'One-Step Polish 3in1' https://www.amazon.co.uk/menzerna-Polishing-Mainte... described as 'Medium Cut Polish with High Gloss Finish & Seal in One'.
Given this is 18 year old paint with only swirl marks but the lacquer might be a bit thin, I'm pondering heavy or medium cut. But 'heavy' can't be that heavy if it can go all the way to a gloss finish. And as you say I can vary the pressure. But the medium product has a 'seal' as well... is that better than a high gloss? You see the problem we amateurs face!
NB: Once I've got it up to 'high gloss' is there anything I can use to make the shine deeper/thicker/more durable? I have some G3 Pro 7193 Rapid Detailer spray https://www.amazon.co.uk/G3-Pro-Rapid-Detailer-500... but not sure if that's the right thing to use after all the rest.
Edited by Simpo Two on Tuesday 9th September 11:32
Brilliant, in light of that I'll actually go for the 'heavy' one - encouraged by the fact the advert says 'BEGINNER FRIENDLY: Clean the surface with the Menzerna Control Cleaner. Apply 3-7 drops of polish to the red Heavy Cut Foam pad. Polish until the greasy looking film looks slightly translucent and remove polish residues. Take a second stage of polishing with the Cut Force Pro with the green Soft Cut Pad. Follow Up with the Menzerna Power Lock Sealant.'
So one product but both pads. Seems reasonable.
As for a seal, as it seems wisest to stay with one brand, Menzerna do https://www.amazon.co.uk/Menzerna-Power-Polymer-Se...
Thanks very much for guiding me through the jungle. Sorry you're too far away to see the car at its next show.
ETA Just a thought - I normally wash the car with Turtle Wax: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-cleaning/car... That has carnauba wax in it which might be counter productive! Is it OK for the initial wash or am I just adding stuff I'll have to clay off?
So one product but both pads. Seems reasonable.
As for a seal, as it seems wisest to stay with one brand, Menzerna do https://www.amazon.co.uk/Menzerna-Power-Polymer-Se...
Thanks very much for guiding me through the jungle. Sorry you're too far away to see the car at its next show.
ETA Just a thought - I normally wash the car with Turtle Wax: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-cleaning/car... That has carnauba wax in it which might be counter productive! Is it OK for the initial wash or am I just adding stuff I'll have to clay off?
Thanks for the confirmation. A few years ago I attended a detailing demonstration and came away with a few samples in bottles, amongst which is some 'HD Valeting & Detailng pH Neutral Shampoo' - which seems it will do. It's LSP safe (?) and anti-marring - not sure quite what that means but is presumably good.
They don't seem to sell it any more though: https://hdcarcare.co.uk/collections/exterior There's certainly some witchcraft on that site!
They don't seem to sell it any more though: https://hdcarcare.co.uk/collections/exterior There's certainly some witchcraft on that site!
Well, I happen to have the HD Valeting & Detailing pH Neutral Shampoo so will use that for the washing. Then the clay mitt, which I can lubricate with a bit more shampoo. Then I've plumped for the Menzerna Cut Force Pro and will finish with their Power Lock Polymer Sealant which I intend to apply with Meguiar's soft foam applicator pads. No plans to use panel wipe as it should all be clean and I've forgotten what stage it goes in anyway...
The DAS6 arrived today complete with two 5" pads, one orange and one grey. However I can't tell which is for polishing and which for finishing. One's orange and one's grey, if that helps. The seller says 'ask the manufacturer' but I have no idea who made them. I think I'll just have to start and see how it goes.
I'm looking forward to seeing the results too! Just need the rest of the clobber to arrive.
The DAS6 arrived today complete with two 5" pads, one orange and one grey. However I can't tell which is for polishing and which for finishing. One's orange and one's grey, if that helps. The seller says 'ask the manufacturer' but I have no idea who made them. I think I'll just have to start and see how it goes.
I'm looking forward to seeing the results too! Just need the rest of the clobber to arrive.
Belle427 said:
Not much help from the seller that really.
See how they feel, the heavier cutting pads are generally firmer.
They feel pretty much exactly the same!See how they feel, the heavier cutting pads are generally firmer.
They both have flat faces, which I hope is OK. What are dimpled pads for? Shall I grab this set? It looks pretty comprehensive. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09WJX64MW?th=1
Edited by Simpo Two on Wednesday 10th September 21:16
Belle427 said:
Just try what you have to start, maybe when you stick them to the machine and apply a little pressure you might feel the density of them.
Yes, I agree it's a case of suck it and see. It's only an Aston Martin 
I've ordered the other pack of pads anyway so I've got a good choice to experiment with.
Just one last question - do I apply and polish the sealer coat by hand or machine?
I saw the post about ceramic coatings and it got me thinking...
I have a bottle of Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant Seal Paint to use after my bottle of Menzerna Cut Force Pro Car Polish.
But would it be better or worse if I used a ceramic coating instead? I see they have one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/menzerna-Protection-Envir...
I have a bottle of Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant Seal Paint to use after my bottle of Menzerna Cut Force Pro Car Polish.
But would it be better or worse if I used a ceramic coating instead? I see they have one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/menzerna-Protection-Envir...
Well, in a moment of derring-do, and as I hadn't seemed to do anything constructive up to that point in the day, I flipped the cover back off the boot and started to arrange all the kit.
First, a rinse with water - I'll award myself 10/10 for that. Then I messed up, because by having the mindset of 'clean the car first' I used the Turtlewax shampoo/wax. Force of habit. Didn't realise that until I was putting the stuff away and saw the proper shampoo still on the shelf. Arse!
Next, the G3 Pro Deep Clean Clay Mitt. Using the same Turtlewax mix as a lubricant I gently ran it over the boot and 'haunches' a few times to see/feel what it did. Using only the weight of my hand I could feel a little drag, and the water went slightly cloudy as particles of something mixed into it. Particles of clay mitt or lacquer? It reminded me of using 3000 wet and dry on my model boat. I wiped the area dry and was a bit alarmed to see that the boot now looked slightly matt, and had some very visible scratches that weren't there before. The mitt was brand new so I can only think they were caused by invisible bits of 'contaminant' catching in the mitt and being dragged across.
Well the only way was forwards so I got the DA polisher out and fitted a smooth medium pad (orange, if the colour means anything). Tiny dabs of Cut Force Pro all over it, then splodge it all over the boot as I'd seen in that handy video someone kindly posted. Select slowest speed and off we go...
It vibrates, even with the pad centred. But we go left and right, up and down, and repeat a couple of times before it seemed a good idea to stop and see how it was going. Wipe the film off, and it's definitely better, but not there yet. Two more sessions, going up to speed 2, and apart from a couple of deeper marks that could have been dangerous to try and remove, it was certainly 99% better than it had been.
So now the Power Lock Polymer Sealant. Applied with Meguiar's Soft Foam Applicator Pads (how easy it is to seem like a nerd in this game!) I polished it on and polished it off. The boot was now shiny, but it didn't seem a deep shine. Did another coat. Not really the awesome deep gloss I was fondly hoping for. I wanted to build up the shine so it looked like a clear layer. Scouted around in the garage and found some Turtlewax quick shine spray, so did half the boot with that to see if it made any difference or built up the shine. Nope, looked exactly the same, so maybe that's as far as it will go.
But the good news is that the boot and haunches are looking very much better than they were, and with a shine that most people would be happy with. Next time - the roof...
First, a rinse with water - I'll award myself 10/10 for that. Then I messed up, because by having the mindset of 'clean the car first' I used the Turtlewax shampoo/wax. Force of habit. Didn't realise that until I was putting the stuff away and saw the proper shampoo still on the shelf. Arse!
Next, the G3 Pro Deep Clean Clay Mitt. Using the same Turtlewax mix as a lubricant I gently ran it over the boot and 'haunches' a few times to see/feel what it did. Using only the weight of my hand I could feel a little drag, and the water went slightly cloudy as particles of something mixed into it. Particles of clay mitt or lacquer? It reminded me of using 3000 wet and dry on my model boat. I wiped the area dry and was a bit alarmed to see that the boot now looked slightly matt, and had some very visible scratches that weren't there before. The mitt was brand new so I can only think they were caused by invisible bits of 'contaminant' catching in the mitt and being dragged across.
Well the only way was forwards so I got the DA polisher out and fitted a smooth medium pad (orange, if the colour means anything). Tiny dabs of Cut Force Pro all over it, then splodge it all over the boot as I'd seen in that handy video someone kindly posted. Select slowest speed and off we go...
It vibrates, even with the pad centred. But we go left and right, up and down, and repeat a couple of times before it seemed a good idea to stop and see how it was going. Wipe the film off, and it's definitely better, but not there yet. Two more sessions, going up to speed 2, and apart from a couple of deeper marks that could have been dangerous to try and remove, it was certainly 99% better than it had been.
So now the Power Lock Polymer Sealant. Applied with Meguiar's Soft Foam Applicator Pads (how easy it is to seem like a nerd in this game!) I polished it on and polished it off. The boot was now shiny, but it didn't seem a deep shine. Did another coat. Not really the awesome deep gloss I was fondly hoping for. I wanted to build up the shine so it looked like a clear layer. Scouted around in the garage and found some Turtlewax quick shine spray, so did half the boot with that to see if it made any difference or built up the shine. Nope, looked exactly the same, so maybe that's as far as it will go.
But the good news is that the boot and haunches are looking very much better than they were, and with a shine that most people would be happy with. Next time - the roof...
Thanks; speed 2 (I think there are 6) was for the first compound. But given that Cut Force Pro is a 'two in one' product should I be doing it with a medium pad on slow speed for the first session, then change to a soft pad and higher speed for the second session? (with more compound).
Is it OK to wipe off the smeary surface with a microfibre cloth (as I did) or should I keep polishing/changing pads until it's all gone?
Is it OK to wipe off the smeary surface with a microfibre cloth (as I did) or should I keep polishing/changing pads until it's all gone?
Thanks guys, yes I need to do the second stage differently.
Looking closely at the boot I did yesterday, whilst it looks OK I can still feel some tiny specks here and there - those may be the 'iron' bits I'd never heard of before, and which might have caused the post-mitt scratches as they came off. However I want to crack on today in the nice weather so will have to try better with the clay mitt and use my fingertips to judge.
The good news is that I've been going too cautiously, which is better than the other way!
Looking closely at the boot I did yesterday, whilst it looks OK I can still feel some tiny specks here and there - those may be the 'iron' bits I'd never heard of before, and which might have caused the post-mitt scratches as they came off. However I want to crack on today in the nice weather so will have to try better with the clay mitt and use my fingertips to judge.
The good news is that I've been going too cautiously, which is better than the other way!
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