Mk1 UK Mx5 - Rust
Discussion
Hello,
I hope someone can help me, I'm new to the world of Mx5s, but considering buying one for my fiancee as a 30th birthday present. I've seen 2 previously, both a bit tatty really, but test drove one at a dealer today which I liked. Everything seemed fine, the paintwork is excellent, the engine sounds and feels very healthy, no rattly noises, nice quiet tickover, no PAS but the manual steering seemed fine, interior is good, no obvious tears or excessive wear in the seats, it had a new vinyl hood and tonneau cover 3 years ago, the mileage is low (very low for the age, but verified through service history and MOTs), the previous owner seemed to look after it fairly well, kept a record of things he's had done and how much they cost, plenty of receipts and invoices. The only issues I had, which I'm not sure of were:
1. The oil gauge was between the 2/3 mark. Is that normal for MX5s? I can see on a photo of a Mk2 the oil gauge in exactly the same position but if anyone could shed any light on it that would be good (I took it for a 10min test drive, needle didn't move but I guess it wouldn't over 10 mins).
2. Rust on the sill directly in front of the rear wheel arch. Noticeable that rust is causing the bit of the sill thats "folded" into the rear wheel arch to begin de-laminating. Also, as you follow the sill forwards from the front edge of the wheel arch towards what I think is the jacking point, just level with the trailing edge of the door, the rust seems to be eating away a little at the very bottom, and the bodywork has a noticeably thicker sectio where I think some repair work has been done before and painted over. It's worse on the drivers side, but passenger side has it slightly too.
3. It has previously failed an MOT for the seatbelt anchorage being excessively corroded, but welding was done to repair this. It also has had an advisory notice in the past for the rear suspension arms being corroded (but not weakened). I'm not too worried about the rear arms as they could be replaced at reasonable cost I think (tell me if I'm wrong please).
I'm mainly concerned about the body rusting. I had a quick look under the car, everything seems to be vaguely rust "coloured" but I couldn't see any really bad bits. At the same time, I don't think the underside has ever had any remedial rust treatment.
It is a UK car, so I wouldn't expect it to be perfect at 14 years old, but just wondering how much these cars rust generally, and what the costs can be to get them fixed.
I'm aware that I don't know a huge amount about these cars, so if anyone can enlighten me on any of the points that would be much appreciated.
Thanks
TNS
I hope someone can help me, I'm new to the world of Mx5s, but considering buying one for my fiancee as a 30th birthday present. I've seen 2 previously, both a bit tatty really, but test drove one at a dealer today which I liked. Everything seemed fine, the paintwork is excellent, the engine sounds and feels very healthy, no rattly noises, nice quiet tickover, no PAS but the manual steering seemed fine, interior is good, no obvious tears or excessive wear in the seats, it had a new vinyl hood and tonneau cover 3 years ago, the mileage is low (very low for the age, but verified through service history and MOTs), the previous owner seemed to look after it fairly well, kept a record of things he's had done and how much they cost, plenty of receipts and invoices. The only issues I had, which I'm not sure of were:
1. The oil gauge was between the 2/3 mark. Is that normal for MX5s? I can see on a photo of a Mk2 the oil gauge in exactly the same position but if anyone could shed any light on it that would be good (I took it for a 10min test drive, needle didn't move but I guess it wouldn't over 10 mins).
2. Rust on the sill directly in front of the rear wheel arch. Noticeable that rust is causing the bit of the sill thats "folded" into the rear wheel arch to begin de-laminating. Also, as you follow the sill forwards from the front edge of the wheel arch towards what I think is the jacking point, just level with the trailing edge of the door, the rust seems to be eating away a little at the very bottom, and the bodywork has a noticeably thicker sectio where I think some repair work has been done before and painted over. It's worse on the drivers side, but passenger side has it slightly too.
3. It has previously failed an MOT for the seatbelt anchorage being excessively corroded, but welding was done to repair this. It also has had an advisory notice in the past for the rear suspension arms being corroded (but not weakened). I'm not too worried about the rear arms as they could be replaced at reasonable cost I think (tell me if I'm wrong please).
I'm mainly concerned about the body rusting. I had a quick look under the car, everything seems to be vaguely rust "coloured" but I couldn't see any really bad bits. At the same time, I don't think the underside has ever had any remedial rust treatment.
It is a UK car, so I wouldn't expect it to be perfect at 14 years old, but just wondering how much these cars rust generally, and what the costs can be to get them fixed.
I'm aware that I don't know a huge amount about these cars, so if anyone can enlighten me on any of the points that would be much appreciated.
Thanks
TNS
In all honesty, rust is the biggest factor when buying a '5. There are plenty of them out there that are rust-free, either imports or UK cars that have had rusty sills fixed in the past so personally I'd be patient and see a few more, you're bound to find one in better nick. They tend to rust from inside out too, so could be fairly serious if it is now visible outside. If you are happy to buy knowing work will be needed, budget about £400 a side to get it done properly. Did you check if the drain holes were clear? If they aren't it could have had standing water in the sills for years which is a real killer.
Oh and the oil pressure gauge - it is normal for them to read about 3/4 round when cold and should settle at 1/2 to 2/3 once warmed up. What year of car was it? I might be wrong, but I think the Mk2 cars had a dummy oil pressure gauge where the Mk1 had a genuine instant pressure powered one.
Oh and the oil pressure gauge - it is normal for them to read about 3/4 round when cold and should settle at 1/2 to 2/3 once warmed up. What year of car was it? I might be wrong, but I think the Mk2 cars had a dummy oil pressure gauge where the Mk1 had a genuine instant pressure powered one.
Edited by vrsmxtb on Wednesday 5th October 15:17
Thanks for those comments. I'd be prepared to pay £2,500 max for the peace of mind of buying a rust-free good condition Mk1.
£400 a side for the sills is a lot more than I thought it might be, and with the sticker price of this one being a shade over £2k I think I'll leave it. Good to know that before buying though.
I'll have to keep looking. At least now I know why people rate the way they drive so much. This one's the first I've driven, and coming from a big hefty VX insignia it was certainly an odd place to be initially. Once I'd made myself fit into the thing, got away from the dealership, folded the roof down, and found a decent road to drive on it was a different matter. Very nice, very "go-karty" to drive. If I can find a good one I think she'll love it.
£400 a side for the sills is a lot more than I thought it might be, and with the sticker price of this one being a shade over £2k I think I'll leave it. Good to know that before buying though.
I'll have to keep looking. At least now I know why people rate the way they drive so much. This one's the first I've driven, and coming from a big hefty VX insignia it was certainly an odd place to be initially. Once I'd made myself fit into the thing, got away from the dealership, folded the roof down, and found a decent road to drive on it was a different matter. Very nice, very "go-karty" to drive. If I can find a good one I think she'll love it.
Only the earlier Mk1s had a real oil pressure gauge. The dummy gauge came in around 94/95.
Personally I'd walk away from that car. Rust in the sills is bad enough but if it's already had a repair and that repair is showing signs of rust then that points to it being a poor job and it'll probably cost even more to rectify it. Also, do you really want to be buying a non-PAS car for your fiancée? They aren't too bad but are still relatively heavy in parking and there are plenty of PAS cars about.
Personally I'd walk away from that car. Rust in the sills is bad enough but if it's already had a repair and that repair is showing signs of rust then that points to it being a poor job and it'll probably cost even more to rectify it. Also, do you really want to be buying a non-PAS car for your fiancée? They aren't too bad but are still relatively heavy in parking and there are plenty of PAS cars about.
£2500 will get you a very good mk1
have a look here http://www.dandycars.com/Mazda-MX5s.htm these are usually the very top end price wise but seem to have good examples. I paid £1600 for a '96 1.8 with 75k on the clock in excellent condition this summer. Personally I wouldn't buy one that needed bodywork doing as there are enought out there that are good examples.
have a look here http://www.dandycars.com/Mazda-MX5s.htm these are usually the very top end price wise but seem to have good examples. I paid £1600 for a '96 1.8 with 75k on the clock in excellent condition this summer. Personally I wouldn't buy one that needed bodywork doing as there are enought out there that are good examples.
(including mine!)MX-5 Lazza said:
Only the earlier Mk1s had a real oil pressure gauge. The dummy gauge came in around 94/95.
Personally I'd walk away from that car. Rust in the sills is bad enough but if it's already had a repair and that repair is showing signs of rust then that points to it being a poor job and it'll probably cost even more to rectify it. Also, do you really want to be buying a non-PAS car for your fiancée? They aren't too bad but are still relatively heavy in parking and there are plenty of PAS cars about.
My 94 has a real pressure gauge, must be 95 onwards?Personally I'd walk away from that car. Rust in the sills is bad enough but if it's already had a repair and that repair is showing signs of rust then that points to it being a poor job and it'll probably cost even more to rectify it. Also, do you really want to be buying a non-PAS car for your fiancée? They aren't too bad but are still relatively heavy in parking and there are plenty of PAS cars about.
gd49 said:
MX-5 Lazza said:
Only the earlier Mk1s had a real oil pressure gauge. The dummy gauge came in around 94/95.
I've seen the pressure gauge on my Mk2.5 move, what's it doing then?vrsmxtb said:
Oh and the oil pressure gauge - it is normal for them to read about 3/4 round when cold and should settle at 1/2 to 2/3 once warmed up. What year of car was it? I might be wrong, but I think the Mk2 cars had a dummy oil pressure gauge where the Mk1 had a genuine instant pressure powered one.
Mine reads 3/4 when cruising, and 4/4 when putting my foot down.It's done this ever since I slighty (over)filled it with oil, so I know why
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