New Ultima GTR Chassis bought. What specs to get?
Discussion
Hi. I've ordered my chassis, double skin kit, what should I get next?
I am thinking AP brakes, LS7 engine, leather interior, ultima clocks for some specs.
I haven't thought about the gearbox.
Where am I best going for the engine, ultima suggest American Speed, any suggestions? Gearbox? Help please.
I am thinking AP brakes, LS7 engine, leather interior, ultima clocks for some specs.
I haven't thought about the gearbox.
Where am I best going for the engine, ultima suggest American Speed, any suggestions? Gearbox? Help please.
If you don't have it yet ask the Factory to send you the build manual.
Read it several times before you start. The sequence of build is in there.
However some things are not as clear as you would wish so don't be scared to ask here.
First one is free. Don't rivet the top edge of the front and rear bulkhead skins. Later in the build the body overlaps these panels and you rivet through the whole lot.
Steve
Read it several times before you start. The sequence of build is in there.
However some things are not as clear as you would wish so don't be scared to ask here.
First one is free. Don't rivet the top edge of the front and rear bulkhead skins. Later in the build the body overlaps these panels and you rivet through the whole lot.
Steve
Steve_D said:
First one is free. Don't rivet the top edge of the front and rear bulkhead skins. Later in the build the body overlaps these panels and you rivet through the whole lot.
Steve
They've still not put that in the manual? I built mine in 2000/2001 and wrote an article for the Ultima Club magazine on where not to rivet. The manual was a pretty rudimentary affair back then, fitting the engine ran to two paragraphs. Needless to say the factory were programmed in to my speed dial during the build, and were always very helpful. Shame that some of the pearls they fed me weren't included in the manual. Steve
Builders these days are very lucky with all the additional online resources and professor Steve on tap here.
JBC said:
Great advice, I'm at the same stage and was just about to start riveting. Thanks guys !
So to expand on this point.Drill all the other holes, deburr, spray of waxoil down the holes in the chassis, thin line of PU sealant (including along the rail you have not drilled) then pop the panel into place and rivet.
Use a piece of wood and clamps to hold the un-riveted edge in place until the sealant has cured.
Steve
Ultimadean and JBC
Welcome.
Don't be afraid to ask what may seem a dumb question. We have all had them. The search function on here is carp and even using Google it may take time to find what you need.
It often helps to look at a complete car and most on here would be happy to let you look over their cars.
It is useful to include your location in your profile to all posters. It saves asking for local owners..
Paul
Welcome.
Don't be afraid to ask what may seem a dumb question. We have all had them. The search function on here is carp and even using Google it may take time to find what you need.
It often helps to look at a complete car and most on here would be happy to let you look over their cars.
It is useful to include your location in your profile to all posters. It saves asking for local owners..
Paul
Thanks Guys. I've had a quick look over the build manual, and yes it is a little bit shallow. I think some of these other Ultima build sites are much clearer. I'll let you know how things are getting on. And believe me I think there'll be many questions I'll be asking. As for the hints please keep them coming I'm writing it all down.
Me too - many thanks. Could I just clarify a bit more? I have the double skin kit. Is it both sides (cockpit and engine bay) of the rear bulk head that I shouldn't rivet the top edge?
Also, am I right in thinking I shouldn't do any drilling of the same top edges, since when the centre section of the body work goes on, I'll drill through that, the top of the panel and also the chassis in one go so it all lines up?
If that's the case, it's unfortunately too late for the cocpit side of the bulkhead panel, but at least I haven't drilled the chassis yet.
Many thanks again.
Drill all the other holes, deburr, spray of waxoil down the holes in the chassis, thin line of PU sealant (including along the rail you have not drilled) then pop the panel into place and rivet.
Use a piece of wood and clamps to hold the un-riveted edge in place until the sealant has cured.
Steve
Also, am I right in thinking I shouldn't do any drilling of the same top edges, since when the centre section of the body work goes on, I'll drill through that, the top of the panel and also the chassis in one go so it all lines up?
If that's the case, it's unfortunately too late for the cocpit side of the bulkhead panel, but at least I haven't drilled the chassis yet.
Many thanks again.
Steve_D said:
JBC said:
Great advice, I'm at the same stage and was just about to start riveting. Thanks guys !
So to expand on this point.Drill all the other holes, deburr, spray of waxoil down the holes in the chassis, thin line of PU sealant (including along the rail you have not drilled) then pop the panel into place and rivet.
Use a piece of wood and clamps to hold the un-riveted edge in place until the sealant has cured.
Steve
UltimaDean said:
Thanks Guys. I've had a quick look over the build manual, and yes it is a little bit shallow. I think some of these other Ultima build sites are much clearer. I'll let you know how things are getting on. And believe me I think there'll be many questions I'll be asking. As for the hints please keep them coming I'm writing it all down.
Definitely read the build sites our there - far more detailed and 'step by step' than the build manual (but the build manual/CD of photos is also useful).I could recommend a couple....
It's all making sense so far, thanks for the advice.
I've also been looking at MacG's build diary, which is really helpful ( being a newbie I don't know if I can post the link, but it won't take much googling )
Just sorted the garage, should get the riveter fired up this or next weekend
I've also been looking at MacG's build diary, which is really helpful ( being a newbie I don't know if I can post the link, but it won't take much googling )
Just sorted the garage, should get the riveter fired up this or next weekend
JBC said:
It's all making sense so far, thanks for the advice.
I've also been looking at MacG's build diary, which is really helpful ( being a newbie I don't know if I can post the link, but it won't take much googling )
Just sorted the garage, should get the riveter fired up this or next weekend
Might even finish off the final page of this soon now that the season is finished, but we are concentrating more on the online shop which will hopefully be sorted soon!I've also been looking at MacG's build diary, which is really helpful ( being a newbie I don't know if I can post the link, but it won't take much googling )
Just sorted the garage, should get the riveter fired up this or next weekend
Oh, well if we're all at it
http://www.ultima-gtr.info
http://www.ultima-canam.info
http://www.ultima-gtr.info
http://www.ultima-canam.info
Edited by Stig on Tuesday 9th October 09:17
macgtech said:
Might even finish off the final page of this soon now that the season is finished, but we are concentrating more on the online shop which will hopefully be sorted soon!
Was wondering what your gearbox options were !JBC said:
Was wondering what your gearbox options were !
Well...where do we start....We started off with an Autobionics G96-50 with an uprated diff plate, external cooler and pump arrangement. This proved not to be up to the fiercesome loads we were putting on it (although more than enough for road/trackday use) so we have had that rebuilt and is now sat waiting for us to sell it.
We then moved to an Albins ST6-M, which is a full race sequential box, with flatshift, dropgears, internal pump and filter, LSD etc...maybe overkill for a road car! They also do a AGB10 transaxle which is similar to the Porsche units but more robust, and are available in 5 or 6 speeds and in synchro or sequential. If you want any more info just give us a shout - we are more than happy to help.
Jonny
full race sequential box, with flatshift, dropgears, internal pump and filter, LSD etc...maybe overkill for a road car
Maybe? You jest.
The cost of modifying a Porsche transaxle with Albins or CMS bits is frightening. The modern answer is a Griffin box. Lots of ratios to match up to an LSx, no adapter plate, just made for the job.
Maybe? You jest.
The cost of modifying a Porsche transaxle with Albins or CMS bits is frightening. The modern answer is a Griffin box. Lots of ratios to match up to an LSx, no adapter plate, just made for the job.
JohnMcL said:
full race sequential box, with flatshift, dropgears, internal pump and filter, LSD etc...maybe overkill for a road car
Maybe? You jest.
The cost of modifying a Porsche transaxle with Albins or CMS bits is frightening. The modern answer is a Griffin box. Lots of ratios to match up to an LSx, no adapter plate, just made for the job.
Jesting I was. Although we have had several interested parties approach us about the ST6-M, and some of these are road going - so I thought it may be worth mentioning here.Maybe? You jest.
The cost of modifying a Porsche transaxle with Albins or CMS bits is frightening. The modern answer is a Griffin box. Lots of ratios to match up to an LSx, no adapter plate, just made for the job.
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